TH8 RS Shifter Thread!

  • Thread starter sandboxgod
  • 1,971 comments
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Sent a rma request on mine. Long time over due. The dust filter cap was loose. Cleaning it had no effect it just started to grind. The cleaning ritual and loosening of the adjustment temporarily solved it until it started to grind after 30 minute of use. Same thing every time.

Back to the G27 shifter for now.
 
How do you guys think a shift knob like this would look on the TH8 RS?
I think it would be a fun project to try to make one...

917+Shift+knob1288359203.jpg
 
My shifter stopped working after a new windows 8 installation. Drivers are OK and it's shown in the configuration panel but not in the controller software or calibration tool.
I tried different computers and Windows 7 without any luck.

Is there a solution or do I have to sent it to Thrustmaster?
 
Just made myself a new shift plate, well half of it anyway, the other half is a Ferrari gate selector off a Mondial 8.



Here's a video to go along with it. What do you think? Piace o non piace?

 
Hey mister Basher. If you plan on making more short throw shifter bars, I would be interested depending on the price! It looks quite fantastic on other people's shifters!
 
Sure thing. I have two on order now, well... 3 after I respond to itrdc5 ;)

They are $25 shipped in the US, $30 shipped internationally. They are made to order generally in whatever thread pitch a person wants, stock or for aftermarket knobs. Send me a PM and we can discuss if you'd like to order one.
 
Sure thing. I have two on order now, well... 3 after I respond to itrdc5 ;)

They are $25 shipped in the US, $30 shipped internationally. They are made to order generally in whatever thread pitch a person wants, stock or for aftermarket knobs. Send me a PM and we can discuss if you'd like to order one.

I don't have any money available currently, but am definitely willing to get one after I do have money. Does your shipping include Alaska or is it just the lower 48? I figured I should ask.
 
I think Alaska isn't any more expensive due to it being in part of the US. :) I ship USPS First Class. Even if it was, I'd just charge the $25.
 
I think Alaska isn't any more expensive due to it being in part of the US. :) I ship USPS First Class. Even if it was, I'd just charge the $25.

That sounds perfect to me! You'll probably be getting a message from me on the second week of October. :lol:
 
can anyone be so kind as to post the internals? in particular where the grounding(?) cable goes. I'll be very much obliged.

That's a cable to a switch for sequential mode. The only grounding cable is the usb cable, grounding the device via your pc through the usb port. :)
 
Anyone know what the dimensions on the shifter plate screws are, including the allen key needed? Kinda... can't find the allen key that came with the shifter. >.>
 
Anyone know what the dimensions on the shifter plate screws are, including the allen key needed? Kinda... can't find the allen key that came with the shifter. >.>

Thread: M3x1.0mm
Thread length: 20mm
Allen key: 2.5mm
 
Well, sorry for the double post, but I figured that I might as well ask a question in here. While I do see the resistance screw, how hard are you supposed to have to turn that thing to get it to budge? I can't adjust the stiffness of my shifter at all and I really don't want to break the thing. It's expensive! :scared:

Yes, I do have flat head screwdrivers at the ready. :lol:

I ask because I want this thing to be pretty stiff, even after getting a short throw shift bar. I figured the first (easiest) way is to have less leverage.
 
Well, sorry for the double post, but I figured that I might as well ask a question in here. While I do see the resistance screw, how hard are you supposed to have to turn that thing to get it to budge? I can't adjust the stiffness of my shifter at all and I really don't want to break the thing. It's expensive! :scared: Yes, I do have flat head screwdrivers at the ready. :lol: I ask because I want this thing to be pretty stiff, even after getting a short throw shift bar. I figured the first (easiest) way is to have less leverage.

1. Use a screw driver that fits properly else you will damage the plastic of the screw, meaning you will only be able to remove it when opening the TH8 and pliers. So a proper size scre driver is a must.
2. Insert the screw driver
3. Instead of tightening, try to loosen it first by going anti-clockwise. If it doesn't seem to budge try wiggling it loose by turning it anti-clockwise and clockwise for a dozen times and try loosening it again. Do not loosen it to the point where it is removed!
4. Tighten it to where you want it. If it seems to get stuck again, loosen it a quarter turn and try tightening further.
 
Thank you! I meant the one that's in the bottomest plastic bit. I'll post a pic tomorrow.

That's the cable that hooks up the switch to switch the Th8 into sequential mode when you put the sequential plate on there. The plate has a notch that pushes down the switch as you screw the plate tight into place.
 
Just google it, I have one and its wirth h every penny. I believe still sold. Use google translate, will take her about 1 day to get back to you.
 
Thank you Mr Basher for making custom made shafts. Although I generally like short shifts, sometimes, longer shafts are required.



The longer one was made for the Ferrari plate I put together and can be seen in use in the video below.

 
Thank you Mr Basher for making custom made shafts. Although I generally like short shifts, sometimes, longer shafts are required.



The longer one was made for the Ferrari plate I put together and can be seen in use in the video below.




Awesome stuff. Though why do you constantly shift back into 1st?
There is a reason why 1st is below reverse, as you don't need it other than to get rolling.
Try to stay in 2nd and have the car less high strung. It will respond more predictably to you and you to the car.
Jackie Stewart would shake his head at that gas pumping, cause all it does is make the car into a galloping horse that shifts its weight back and forth.
Anyway, to each his own driving style of course. ;)


What I am curious in how the FFB feels with such a huge wheel. The leverage must make the FFB feel considerably weaker. Any thoughts on that?
 
What I am curious in how the FFB feels with such a huge wheel. The leverage must make the FFB feel considerably weaker. Any thoughts on that?
I would agree with you, the bigger the wheel, the lower the FFB should be. In reality, I'm not sure if it works like that...
 

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