TH8 RS Shifter Thread!

[LoeVG]

I would agree with you, the bigger the wheel, the lower the FFB should be. In reality, I'm not sure if it works like that...

The old school cars have big steering wheels, so it's lighter to turn the wheel without power steering :-)

 

[LogiForce]

I would agree with you, the bigger the wheel, the lower the FFB should be. In reality, I'm not sure if it works like that...

Hence my question. I was thinking of getting a 350mm Momo Monte Carlo, but... I am not sure if it would feel 'right' due to the size. Because of the leverage you would more easily approach the stall torque of the motor in the T500, deadening the feedback.

 

[LogiForce]

So I grabbed a 50 euro wheel instead (got a bit of a discount at the local carparts shop).
The Autostyle Wind 350 mm wheel is what I got myself. It's not an expensive Momo or anything, but I just wanted to know if 350 mm was a good size or too big.

http://www.autostyle.nl/catalog_en/...m-black-pvc-red-stitch-black-spokes-ring.html

Apart from the specs on the site, this 350 mm wheel weighs 1000 grams exactly with DSD's QR hub attached.
By comparison the original GT rim that came with the T500 is 300 mm and weighing 1050 grams.

I have basically a few interesting things to note about using a 5 cm (or 50 mm) bigger wheel.

- The weight of the wheel seems to be what reduces the FFB effect's strength. The size does absolutely not reduce the FFB strength.
- The increasing leverage does make it easier to overcome the FFB effects more easily. So if you are annoyed by oscillation in your game, the leverage could make life easier for you to counteract that undesirable effect.
- I also found out that the bigger wheel makes it easier for you to drive far more accurately than with a small wheel. Minor corrections become easy to do and also nailing that apex seems to be an easier task as you are able to steer more precisely, and also aim more precisely for that apex.
- Of course the bigger size has the downside of being a bit slower, as the circumference of the wheel is bigger and thus it takes a longer time for your hand to rotate the wheel full circle.
-While steering with the bigger wheel you can steer further until your arms interlock. With the 300 mm GT wheel this seems to happen at around ~185 degree rotation, while with the 350 mm wheel I have I can go up ~200 degrees of rotation from center until my arms interlock. What this means is that I have more playroom for (counter)steering without the need to let go one hand to initiate the 'hand over hand' steering technique. So you grip the wheel for a longer time. If this is beneficial in the long run I don't know yet, but I thought I'd mention.
- Lastly I found that doing hand over hand movements is actually easier to do quickly with a bigger wheel than a smaller wheel. I think this is because your other hand and arm won't be in the way as much, as there is more clearance so to speak between the left and ride side of the wheel. 50 mm more clearance that is.


Coming back to the wooden Ferrari wheel. I think that the same goes for that wheel. If the weight is around 1kg (1000 grams) you won't notice much difference from the original GT wheel. Apart from the leverage to more easier overcome the effects as well as being far more accurate with steering corrections.
That said a different wheel does indeed seem to make for a better and especially a completely different experience. Left and right I even noticed some oddities in the FFB of some games that were otherwise not as apparent or made me think I wasn't strong enough to overcome an effect.
To give a small example. We all know that the cars in GT5 float a bit in a straight line. This is NOT due to the FFB itself. I actually kept the wheel completely still and still on the Suzuka straight I could see my car float from left to right.
So yeah, sometimes it can cause you to raise an eyebrow or two at some effects. On the other hand the 350 mm wheel does feel more real. The effects in pCARS seemed to come across as much more realistic as well for the BMW M1 GT car, yet the Caterham Classic seemed to be pretty messed up.
Anyway, I just want to say is that a bigger wheel makes you more precise and also more precise in FFB error detection it seems.

Edit:
Almost forgot to mention. The 350 mm wheel is not too big, but I might wish for bigger paddle shifters or some form of extensions.
The wheel got a bit of a shallow dish, almost flat, and I can barely touch the paddle shifters with my small size (uk size 9 gloves) hands. So it's not really comfortable to actually shift with those paddles anymore. Using them as directional indicators in Euro Truck Simulator 2? No problem, as for that its still comfortable enough.

 

[itrdc5]

Talking about weights, I actually have weights for most of my wheels on my Google+ page.
https://plus.google.com/photos/ Yipzone/albums/5937216328394694529

A picture of the wheels here together with an up and coming mod
https://plus.google.com/photos/ Yipzone/albums/5937192817000390193

The wooden Momo feels very good because it's very light but yeah, each wheel has its own characteristics. I think the best all rounder size if you just had to pick one would be 300mm which just so happens to be the original Thrustmaster GT wheel size

 

[itrdc5]

Back on topic. Here's a video of adding an extra spring plunger to the TH8 RS.

 

[LogiForce]

Doesn't seem to do a whole lot. Maybe a slight improvement.
The biggest thing I see is that it takes a bit more force getting it into gear.

Would love to hear your thoughts after you've done the said test drive.

 

[mcunkle]

I'm looking to order a shaft extension from Mr Basher, how do I go about ordering one?

I've tried emailing via the website http://www.basherboards.com/ and haven't received a reply.

 

[NOSWaster]

Me, again. I'm not the most handy person, and I can't seem to find how to remove the existing shifter shaft from the TH8 to replace it. Could anyone please be so gracious as to direct me to some directions?

Thanks!

 

[Carson79]

It just Unscrews counter clockwise

 

[mrbasher]

When screwing the new shaft into the shifter, and when putting the knob on the new shaft. Put the hex wrench that came with your shifter through the hole I drilled in the new shaft. That should allow you to handle the process relatively easily.

 

[NOSWaster]

Thanks very much! One problem (or maybe it isn't a problem!), but the threads onto which the knob is screwed are incredibly tight. Is this normal? If not, should I file them down a tad?

 

[mrbasher]

Filing them probably won't help. What's odd, and this isn't the first time this has happened, is that the knob I use to test all these screwed on no problem.

How tight is it? Can you get the shaft screwed all the way in or does it get too tight? If it will screw all the way into the knob you should be fine. Most likely after you screw it in the first time, subsequent times will be easier. (though not really necessary)

My guess is that the threads on my test knob may be getting a bit sloppy from testing all the shafts I've made. If you can't get it in there confidently, let me know and I will just send you a new shaft. No charge.

 

[NOSWaster]

Gotcha! When I get home I'll mark where the knob screws to on the original shaft, then to where it gets snug on the new one and see if they match up.

 

[LogiForce]

Just wondering, but does anyone know what this new TH8A shifter is all about? I reckon it's just updated a little bit, atl east from what I saw on the box over at the SimRacingTonight TX wheel unboxing. It looks pretty much like the same thing with a different knob. Maybe a shorter throw if you look closely at the gates in the plate and compare it to the TH8 shifter plate.

 

[Paul33993]

Just wondering, but does anyone know what this new TH8A shifter is all about? I reckon it's just updated a little bit, atl east from what I saw on the box over at the SimRacingTonight TX wheel unboxing. It looks pretty much like the same thing with a different knob. Maybe a shorter throw if you look closely at the gates in the plate and compare it to the TH8 shifter plate.

I haven't really seen a good picture of it.

Their website:

http://www.thrustmaster.com/en_UK/products/tx-racing-wheel-ferrari-458-italia-edition

Makes a big deal out of it being an eight speed, but maybe they're counting the reverse gear as a "speed". Even if they weren't, not sure how often you run into cars with an eighth gear.

Probably just a TH8 that hooks into the TX base via a non-USB cable. Or not. But that's what I'm putting my money on.

 

[Azure Flare]

Mine hasn't even arrived yet, and I'm already getting ideas.

Of course, I'll have to try it out in its factory configuration before I determine what I need to do to it.

 

[Ferrari458Italia]

Mine hasn't even arrived yet, and I'm already getting ideas.

Of course, I'll have to try it out in its factory configuration before I determine what I need to do to it.

Just make sure before anything you calibrate it on your computer!!
At first when I got my shifter I was like "oh this thing sucks it's not even seeing my shifts" but then I learned that I had to calibrate it on PC first

 

[Azure Flare]

@Ferrari458Italia I actually intend on using it for PS3 (PS4 when I get one).

 

[Carson79]

@Ferrari458Italia I actually intend on using it for PS3 (PS4 when I get one).

You still have to calibrate it on PC first

 

[Azure Flare]

@Carson79 Thanks for the heads-up.

 

[Ferrari458Italia]

@Ferrari458Italia I actually intend on using it for PS3 (PS4 when I get one).

I use it for my PS3 as well, and soon to be PS4 when GT7 is out. but yeah what Carson said

 

[NOSWaster]

Filing them probably won't help. What's odd, and this isn't the first time this has happened, is that the knob I use to test all these screwed on no problem.

How tight is it? Can you get the shaft screwed all the way in or does it get too tight? If it will screw all the way into the knob you should be fine. Most likely after you screw it in the first time, subsequent times will be easier. (though not really necessary)

My guess is that the threads on my test knob may be getting a bit sloppy from testing all the shafts I've made. If you can't get it in there confidently, let me know and I will just send you a new shaft. No charge.

Alright. I finally got the chance to take a picture of how far the shift knob will go. I marked it on both bars (original and short) with green sharpie.

 

[Mayaman]

Hey Basher waiting on that invoice.

 

[Dean]

Looks like my shifter's on the way now. I'm very excited to try it out. And in regard of that, is there anything I should know - or do - before I start driving?

 

[Azure Flare]

So today, Fedex dropped off a box with Overstock.com written on it.

YAY! MY SHIFTER IS HERE!

I've already attached it to the stand the I bought, now I just need the wheel and more on that subject later on...



Anyway, the action feels almost Honda-like in smoothness. But there are a couple of problems.

1). I can't seem to unscrew the shift rod (I plan on a shorter one), 2). the tension adjuster screw is stuck, I can't turn it in either direction, 3). the sequential shift moves too little and its stiff as everything, but I guess that bending the metal prongs would help a little. And 4). Aftermarket shift-knobs are really expensive (but that's my problem I guess)...


In the mean time, I can have it next to me as a plaything.

 

[Dean]

I don't know if it makes you feel any better, @AF, but my shaft (or rod) seems to be stuck as well. And, actually everything you say above's the same here, apart from that I can use the tension screw adjuster.

 

[Azure Flare]

I don't know if it makes you feel any better, @AF, but my shaft (or rod) seems to be stuck as well. And, actually everything you say above's the same here, apart from that I can use the tension screw adjuster.

I did get the rod to unscrew, but I now can't get the knob off. Maybe I should introduce it to my vise...

Still haven't got the screw loose, maybe some WD-40 and brute force might help.

Also, I did not know that you can abbreviate usernames.

 

[Dean]

I did get the rod to unscrew, but I now can't get the knob off. Maybe I should introduce it to my vise...

Still haven't got the screw loose, maybe some WD-40 and brute force might help.

Also, I did not know that you can abbreviate usernames.

How did you get the rod off? Brute force only doesn't seem to work here. I can't even work out which way it needs to be turned, to be honest.

And yes, you can abbreviate names. @ the person, then just edit your post, and inside "user=XXXXXX" and "/user" you'll see who you @'ed. Simply edit it to what you want, and delete the @-sign if you wish.

 

[rankings18]

How did you get the rod off? Brute force only doesn't seem to work here. I can't even work out which way it needs to be turned, to be honest.
.

The rod and knob both turn counterclockwise to loosen. If the rod is stuck try sticking something in the hole of it (i used allen key) to help with loosening or use an adjustable wrench (notice the flat area on the thread)
If you manage to remove the rod but the knob is stuck you could use a vise or locking pliers. Just make sure u put something around the rod to protect it from scratch.

 

[Azure Flare]

@Dean I think what I did was tighten the knob really tight, and the rod came loose.