TH8 RS Shifter Thread!

  • Thread starter sandboxgod
  • 1,971 comments
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Right. Results of the second received short shift bar... the knob doesn't screw on all the way on this one, either. Oh well, it still gets on there nice and snug. I compared the threads to the original bar and they appear to have the exact same spacing. So I'll just try filing them down on one of the two short bars. If that doesn't work, then oh well! It's still shorter than the original bar so it's all good for me. I'll just tighten up that tension screw real good. :)
 
Okay I finally got the rod off! :D It took a small screwdriver, brute force and a few bruises to get it off, but it's off. @AF.

---
Also, I came up with a brilliant idea, which might not be the first of it's kind, but still; a silencer "mod". I got a bit annoyed over the click when you get into a gear. It's not that loud, but it's still loud enough to be heard at night, at least here.

I've made the below video to show a comparison with and without the "mod". :)

 
Dean
Okay I finally got the rod off! :D It took a small screwdriver, brute force and a few bruises to get it off, but it's off. @AF.

---
Also, I came up with a brilliant idea, which might not be the first of it's kind, but still; a silencer "mod". I got a bit annoyed over the click when you get into a gear. It's not that loud, but it's still loud enough to be heard at night, at least here.

I've made the below video to show a comparison with and without the "mod". :)

Click to expand...


why not just wrap something around the shaft instead? It would be easier to do and won't come loose like those velvet pads because of the lack of contact and poor adhesion. The metal on metal contact is what is making the noise, although looking at mine it makes nothing like that level of noise because the black band around the shaft appears to be higher.
 
Germinator
why not just wrap something around the shaft instead? It would be easier to do and won't come loose like those velvet pads because of the lack of contact and poor adhesion. The metal on metal contact is what is making the noise, although looking at mine it makes nothing like that level of noise because the black band around the shaft appears to be higher.
Click to expand...
To be honest, I couldn't find anything but the small pads, which doesn't go off unless you deliberately pull them off. Though of course, it would be easier to just put something around the rod - or the black band - itself, the thing is however, what could I put around it? :confused:
 
A couple of wraps of PVC Insulation Tape should do the trick and cheap too.

In fact looking closer at my shifter the rod/shaft makes contact with the moulded plastic template that is under the metal top piece.
 
Dean
Okay I finally got the rod off! :D It took a small screwdriver, brute force and a few bruises to get it off, but it's off. @AF.

---
Also, I came up with a brilliant idea, which might not be the first of it's kind, but still; a silencer "mod". I got a bit annoyed over the click when you get into a gear. It's not that loud, but it's still loud enough to be heard at night, at least here.

I've made the below video to show a comparison with and without the "mod". :)

Click to expand...


Actually I did this over a year ago. ;)

But great minds right? hehe
 
Alright. Mister Basher, if you're reading this, it is only that the threads need to be sanded down. I measured the spacing of them and that all checks out. After that I compared and measured the short bars side by side with the original one. It's that the threads are too long (diameter) it seems. So I could probably just get them ground down. Sorry for the hullabaloo, but I'll get it sorted. Thanks very much for the short shift bar! I'm sure I'll enjoy it greatly! :)

Does anyone know if Home Depot or Lowe's can grind down the threads for me?
 
Mayaman
Actually I did this over a year ago. ;)

But great minds right? hehe
Click to expand...

I think it was your post that inspired me to do that too. Of course, the squeaking drove me mad (and couldn't for the life of me find where it was not greased up). So I just decided to covert to sequential shifter.
 
Hello! This'll be my first post on the forums. I just ordered the shifter and wanted to ask some questions (two, more specifically):

-From what I understand, knobs marketed as universal will fit the original gear stick without problems?
-I'm going to bolt it to a DIY sim rig. How long should the M6 bolts be? On Thrustmaster's support website they do say how long they should be for the wheel and pedals but not the shifter.

Thanks in advance!
 
CrankyCorvus
Hello! This'll be my first post on the forums. I just ordered the shifter and wanted to ask some questions (two, more specifically):

-From what I understand, knobs marketed as universal will fit the original gear stick without problems?
-I'm going to bolt it to a DIY sim rig. How long should the M6 bolts be? On Thrustmaster's support website they do say how long they should be for the wheel and pedals but not the shifter.

Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
1. Yes... or so I think... :boggled:
2. This, might help you. :)
 
Dean
2. This, might help you. :)
Click to expand...

Unfortunately, it didn't. I've seen that document many times. The problem is, unlike the instructions for the T500RS wheel and pedals, it doesn't show me how long the bolts should be. For example, in the instructions for the wheel, it shows the bolts should be T+15mm where T= thickness of the platform you're bolting it to. No such info is giving for the shifter, they just say don't use bolts which are too long. How long IS too long?

EDIT: Come to think of it, maybe I should just use the clamp since I'll be moving it to either side depending on whether the car is left- or right-hand drive.
 
mrbasher
More are ready, if anyone is interested... These fit the stock knob, but are considerably shorter length:

6hp0eq.jpg
Click to expand...

I need this !!!
 
LostRacer
Does anyone know of someone still making the shift plates?
Click to expand...

You might wanna PM Derek Speare. I know there is a sold out sign on his webpage, but you can add them to the cart. I could have sworn you used to be blocked from adding to the cart. So he may have them in stock.
 
Dean
To be honest, I couldn't find anything but the small pads, which doesn't go off unless you deliberately pull them off. Though of course, it would be easier to just put something around the rod - or the black band - itself, the thing is however, what could I put around it? :confused:
Click to expand...

I would suggest heat shrink tubing -- Radio Shack or Fry's should have this in sizes that would fit over the shaft, then you could just shrink it down with a hair dryer.
 
A few questions...
1. Can I use the th8rs with gt6 and a fanatec wheel (without the $90 adapter)?
2. Will this shifter work with the new thrustmaster wheel for Xbox one?
3. How does this shifter compare to the clubsport shifter?
 
yakapo
A few questions...
1. Can I use the th8rs with gt6 and a fanatec wheel (without the $90 adapter)?
2. Will this shifter work with the new thrustmaster wheel for Xbox one?
3. How does this shifter compare to the clubsport shifter?
Click to expand...

1. Unfortunately, no.

2. Not yet, I'm working on that... Though it will likely require either the adapter I already make or one very similar.

3. Don't know ;)
 
Hello and thanks in advance,

Anyone have problems with the H-shifter mode playing GT6? I usually drive each car with the shifting gears it has in reality.
For example, Ferrari 458 Italia '09 with the shifter paddels, Citröen C4 WRC '08 with sequential shifter and a Chevrolet Corvette Z06 (C6) '06 with the H-shifter.
The problem I have a couple of days ago is that some cars can't be handled with the H-shifter mode of the TH8 RS because the shifter does not respond; I move the lever to the first, second, third, any gear, but the car continues in the same gear. But it works with the paddles. I found this bug driving the Sauber Mercedes C9 Race Car '89, Mercedes-Benz 190 E 2.5-16 Evolution II Touring Car '92, Ford GT40 Race Car '69, BMW 507 '57, etc. But it works perfectly with the Lotus Elise Race Car '96, Caterham Seven Fireblade '02, Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VI GSR T.M. Edition Special Color Pack, and many others.
What do you think? Is it a game's issue or my TH8 is damaged?

Thanks a lot.
 
Its a GT6 software glitch, not your hardware.

There are at least 2 threads related to this issue in the GT6 section.

The Sauber is one of the "known" cars to have this issue.
Another one is the rocket car when transmission is upgraded.
There have been posts of this affecting various standard cars too.

Here are two threads to get you up-to-speed on the issue.

Am I the only one? thread.

Sauber C9 must be driven like a sequential gearbox thread.

I personally experienced this with the Sauber and the Light Co. Rocket car.
I use a T500/TH8 RS.
 
Last edited:
JogoAsobi
Its a GT6 glitch, not your hardware, seems in some cases that the transmissions are mis-labled.

There are at least 2 threads related to this issue in the GT6 section.

I will try to dig them up and post the links for you.
Click to expand...

Oh sorry sir, I didn't find these posts. I appreciate your response and I will thank you for the links.
 

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