The definitive GT5 transmission tuning guide.

Okay, here are my detailed torque graph, not that nice, but it is a beggining though.

namnlst1kopiera.jpg


And heres my table:

rationy.jpg


Anything usefull that can be read here, considering my other graphs and info i have given? *2nd gear, at 5900rpm, the output torque should be 1433*

Well, lets se how much rpm i drop when i change gears:

I rev to 7900rpm in all gears.

1-2 gear - 5750rpm. Rpm loss = 2150rpm
2-3 gear - 6250rpm. Rpm loss = 1650rpm
3-4 gear - 6500rpm. Rpm loss = 1400rpm
4-5 gear - 6500rpm. Rpm loss = 1400rpm
4-5 gear - 6750rpm. Rpm loss = 1150rpm

This are the rpm i land on, when i rev to 7900 in one gear, and change to another gear.
 
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I am taking an exerpt from Drive to Win by Carroll Smith. Most of what I know about tuning theory comes from this man.

"The selections of optimum gear ratios is important, not only in terms of lap time but also in terms of driveablity...

The basic rules are very simple:

1) Determine and use the optimum rpm in top gear, the optimum maximum rpm in the intermediate gears and the optimum shift point.

2) Top gear is selected for the straight(s). The intermediate gears are selected for the corners and for the most efficient acceleration.

3) It is better to have too few rpm at a corner apex that too many.

4) Always split the torque as many ways as practical - use the maximum practical number of gears on any given road racing cicuit. "

I reread the entire chapter on RPM and HP curves and I found where most people are getting their 200 RPM past peak HP. Problem is, you guys are quoting him WRONG.
"I tend to be pretty conservative in this department, usually opting to go about 200rpm over what I think is the installed max power point- but only with the cooperation and agreement of the engine builder."

The information below is what he used to come to his conclusion.


"Maximum corrected horsepower is 248.2bhp at 9200 RPMs. Assuming a 1000rpm drop from fourth to fifth, we will calculate the "area under the horsepower curve" for various maximum rpm in top gear. Shifting at peak horsepower and dropping 1000rpm we see (in top gear):

8200 225.1hp
8400 233.7
8600 236.8
8800 242.3
9000 244.2
9200 248.8
---------------------------
1428.2 total horsepower

Raising the max rpm to 9400 produces:
8400 233.7
8600 236.7
8800 242.3
9000 244.2
9200 248.2
9400 247.0
---------------------------------
1452.2 total HP - a 1.7% improvement

9600 rpm results in:
8600 243.8
8800 242.3
9000 244.2
9200 248.2
9400 247.0
9600 243.8
-----------------------------------------
1462.3 total HP - a 0.7% further improvement

Continuing the exercise to 9800 gives us:
8800 242.3
9000 244.2
9200 248.2
9400 247.0
9600 243.8
9800 223.0
-----------------------------------------------
1455.0 total HP - and a performance decrease.

"By carrying the rpm in top gear beyond the max power point, we pick up a significant amount of total power. There probably won't be any difference in top speed, but the difference in E.T. in top gear will be measurable. The downside is reduced reliability and loss of the ability to take advantage of a tow.

I tend to be pretty conservative in this department, usually opting to go about 200rpm over what I think is the installed max power point - but only with the cooperation and agreement of the engine builder."

Straight from the horses mouth. Power in the engine exists past peak HP. But, due to reliability concerns, he is very conservative. In this game, reliability is a mute point.

THE SHIFT POINT

Exactly the same parameters apply to the selection of the optimum rpm at which we should shift gears. This points to a couple of basic truths:

1) For maximum performance you always have to shift past the peak of the horsepower curve

2) Depending on the shape of the curve and the gear splits, you don't have to go very far over the peak.

3) There is a point after which more rpm equates to less performance, not more.

So much of the information out there is ignoring the fact that he clearly states "Depending on the shape of the curve and the gear splits". That is so important. He was not playing a video game. Most curves were highly peaky in his time and his ability to change transmission gearing on the fly was basically nonexistent. We have more tools.

The reason we look at tq output to the wheels is because we have the ability to not only change the final drive ratio, but also the transmission gearing ratios! With these tools, we can extrapolate even more use out of the power curve then ever existed before.
 
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esoxhntr
THIS. Provided the Final Drive is the same. Let me say it again, torque at wheels = engine torque * gear ratio * final drive - drivetrain losses. We cannot account for drivetrain losses but let's assume they are the same in every gear.

Rolling Radius?
 
Yes, so this information isnt going to help us either, i recomend everyone looking at my examples, there are much data to be analyzed.
 
Yes, so this information isnt going to help us either, i recomend everyone looking at my examples, there are much data to be analyzed.

I need the RPM drop for each estimated shift point to make any analyzations. Using 500 rpm increments really makes it hard to get exact numbers.
 
I need the RPM drop for each estimated shift point to make any analyzations. Using 500 rpm increments really makes it hard to get exact numbers.

Okay, look at my post above to see how much rpm i lose while shifting gears. If anybody have a better idea to make a more exact torque/hp graph, feel free to fill in. One strange thing, is also that the graph states 88.3 kgfm as peak torque, and in the description of the car, it states 87kgfm as peak torque. Well i think, even if the graps i have made has flaws, we can see that 2 gear output torque is way to low, and that could be the explenation why the "new" setup pulls harder. One inresting thing then i think back, was that the "old" setup reached top speed quicker, according to my friend...
 
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using RPM * (gear2ratio/gear1ratio) to get rpm drop

we get 7900 * (2.33/3.241) = 5679rpm

so from 7900 in 1st we drop to 5680 in 2nd.

If your chart/table are correct I would shorten 2nd (or lengthen 1st since you propably have wheelspin issues :) )
 
using RPM * (gear2ratio/gear1ratio) to get rpm drop

we get 7900 * (2.33/3.241) = 5679rpm

so from 7900 in 1st we drop to 5680 in 2nd.

If your chart/table are correct I would shorten 2nd (or lengthen 1st since you propably have wheelspin issues :) )

You know. I forgot you can do that... Very helpful. Thanks! It's all just math and physics. Always an equation for everything and I forgot about it :(
 
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using RPM * (gear2ratio/gear1ratio) to get rpm drop

we get 7900 * (2.33/3.241) = 5679rpm

so from 7900 in 1st we drop to 5680 in 2nd.

If your chart/table are correct I would shorten 2nd (or lengthen 1st since you propably have wheelspin issues :) )
Hmm, it is gettin even more complex, and this is why:

1-2 gear - 5750rpm. Rpm loss = 2150rpm
2-3 gear - 6250rpm. Rpm loss = 1650rpm
3-4 gear - 6500rpm. Rpm loss = 1400rpm
4-5 gear - 6500rpm. Rpm loss = 1400rpm
5-6 gear - 6750rpm. Rpm loss = 1150rpm

According to my chart, the "less" rpm i land on after shifting gears, the more output torque i get for that moment. But changing one gear changes the torque output, and will affect the other gear aswell. But, comparing to the "new" setup, i can shorten some gears on the "old" one, and still have higher output torque all togeather sice my final drive on the "old" one is 2.279, comparing to 2.150 right?

After looking at my numbers, it seems that the "new" setup gives higher output torque in 2, 3, 4 gears, while the old one has higher output torque in 1, 5, 6 gears, and that would explain the slightly more wheelspin in 1st gear, but slower acceleration in the gears up to 5 and 6 gear, which gives more output torque and reach top speed faster.
 
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Right. :D

Ignore final drive for now, we are only interested in finding optimum shift points and gears for an engine's power curve - ultimately, it (fd) has no effect on that since it is a constant (same in every gear). Once you figure out the optimum gears/shift point to accelerate they will never change unless the power curve changes (or you want to get uber track specific and tune for a specific corner which would take you out of the optimum everywhere else - but ignore that :D). You THEN use final drive to adjust your top speed vs RATE of acceleration for each track.

Best way is to create a spreadsheet that looks like this:

transmission.jpg


Where you plug in your Ratios (column L), Shift Points (Column M) and Torque (Column B) and have the spreadsheet calculate things for you and find the best setup and (possibly) a better place to shift instead of 7900 rpm.
 
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Right. :D

Ignore final drive for now, we are only interested in finding optimum shift points & ultimately, it has no effect on that since it is a constant (same in every gear). Once you figure out the optimum gears to use to accelerate, you can use Final Drive to adjust your top speed.

Best way is to create a spreadsheet that looks like this:

transmission.jpg


Where you plug in your Ratios (column L), Shift Points (Column M) and Torque (Column B) and have the spreadsheet calculate things for you and find the best setup and (possibly) a better place to shift instead of 7900 rpm.

Yes, that would be cool, considering you have all this numbers, that are really hard to get hold on from gt5. Read my post above, its the explenation why the "old" and "new" setup differs, it makes sence.

What can we learn? Well specially for drag racing, a spreadsheet would be usefull, only if you have all those variables needed. If you start at 0, dont knowing anything about your car, then you have to spend endless hours trying to figure out a good "base" setup.
 

Yeah, I have been on that page numerous times. Problem is the guy says a few very misleading things.

"Note - and this is important - the transmission does not amplify power.

Power in = power out, minus losses
(which are low for a manual transmission)."

While he is 100% correct, this gives off the idea that tuning your transmission does not effect acceleration, which is completely wrong.

Gear ratios exist to help reduce the spinning rate of the engine into usable power at the wheels. In this process, more TQ is "created". Obviously, its not created. It is converted. It was always there in one way or another.

Tuning each transmission gear absolutely has an effect on acceleration and in the end, that is what truly matters. The reason these tables work is not because we are assuming the the transmission and final drive are creating more power, its because we are looking how an individual gear changes the way it looks.

Having the right gearset for the right power curve does increase acceleration. And that does matter.
 
Yeah, I have been on that page numerous times. Problem is the guy says a few very misleading things.

"Note - and this is important - the transmission does not amplify power.

Power in = power out, minus losses
(which are low for a manual transmission)."

While he is 100% correct, this gives off the idea that tuning your transmission does not effect acceleration, which is completely wrong.

Gear ratios exist to help reduce the spinning rate of the engine into usable power at the wheels. In this process, more TQ is "created". Obviously, its not created. It is converted. It was always there in one way or another.

Tuning each transmission gear absolutely has an effect on acceleration and in the end, that is what truly matters. The reason these tables work is not because we are assuming the the transmission and final drive are creating more power, its because we are looking how an individual gear changes the way it looks.

Having the right gearset for the right power curve does increase acceleration. And that does matter.

That is verry true, an the question is how accurate one can be doing all this calculations?I never think there would be a ultimate setup, considering the transmission is very complex.
 
That is verry true, an the question is how accurate one can be doing all this calculations?I never think there would be a ultimate setup, considering the transmission is very complex.

As accurate as you can determine the HP values for a given in game power curve graph.

My calculator is almost finished and it takes into account and suggests shift points based on a couple factors.

RPM Drop between gears, HP at any given RPM (based on your inputs), transmission gear ratio.

It then tells you the optimal shift points based on the inputs you have entered.

This guy right here goes a step farther and has created a calculator that takes your power curve and optimizes a gearset to use that power curve given certain parameters of your entering (tire width, aero, track, etc).

http://www.mitchellsoftware.com/prod02.htm

This is the quintessential gearing calculator and I am trying to recreate enough of it to use in game. I don't believe I can ever recreate it until we know more about tire widths and aero in this game.

My calculator is designed to study the power curve of an engine and the gearing of the transmission and tell you when to shift. It will not suggest better gearing ratios as of now.


I have another explanation to cover how work is done in this game. As soon as you understand that gearing only removes load from the engine and does not create power, you can figure out why it actually helps you accelerate.
A bicycle is a good example of gearing and how it works. Lets pretend we are talking about a very lean, non muscular man that has high endurance and very little twitch or power muscle.

You could put your bike in lower numerical gear and as long as you had enough power, you could get up a hill. You could also raise the gear number and it would require less power to get up that same hill, but more rotations.

The amount of work being done is the exact same. BUT, how efficient your body works at the different gear ratios is very important as well. At the lower numbered ratio, you expended much more energy because your body was not tuned to be efficient at high load. Your body is keen to endurance more than it is to high outputs of energy. So, at the top of the hill you will be a lot more tired if you used the lower gear then the higher gear (assuming the fitness levels i quoted).

Engines work the EXACT SAME WAY. Gearing allows us to put the engine in its most efficient "work" zone. When in this efficient work zone, we get the most acceleration for the power invested. Think if that bicycler had a professional create gearing for him to climb a 45* hill based on hundreds of physical tests put on him. He would get up that hill in way better then any generic gearing would have gotten him there.

Think of these gearing tables as not absolute values of power, but more as a description of the efficiency of an engine with a given gearing set. We can see when the engine is more efficient and less efficient by calculating the "tq to the wheels". This is how the shift points are being determined and the gearing ratios are being determined.
 
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But if i ask this question:

1. If i change to a specific gear, and i land on for example 6000rpm, which gives me output torque 1500, and i redline at 7900rpm, which reduces the output torque to 1300. I loose 200 output torque from 6000rpm to 7900 right.

2. If i instead change the ratio of a gear, and that makes me land on 7000rpm (shorter gear) after i change gear, which give me output torque 1450 and i rev to 7900rpm which gives me output torque 1380. With the rpm landing on "higher" i get reduced output torque, but at redline i get higher output torque comparing to "1" example.

The question is, should you aim to land at a rpm that gives you the most output torque for the moment, or should you tune your gear ratio, so the outpout torque at the redline (when you change gear) is the highest?

For example

Setup 1:
rpm 5 gear (1.300) Setup 2: rpm 5 gear (1400)
4000 ****** 4000 ********
5000 1600ftlb 5000 1750ftlb
6000 1500ftlb 6000 1600ftlb
7000 1400ftlb 7000 1450ftlb
8000 1300ftlb 8000 1380ftlb

These numbers are fictional, and the reason setup 2 makes more output torque, is due to the shorter gear.
 
But if i ask this question:

1. If i change to a specific gear, and i land on for example 6000rpm, which gives me output torque 1500, and i redline at 7900rpm, which reduces the output torque to 1300. I loose 200 output torque from 6000rpm to 7900 right.

2. If i instead change the ratio of a gear, and that makes me land on 7000rpm (shorter gear) after i change gear, which give me output torque 1450 and i rev to 7900rpm which gives me output torque 1380. With the rpm landing on "higher" i get reduced output torque, but at redline i get higher output torque comparing to "1" example.

The question is, should you aim to land at a rpm that gives you the most output torque for the moment, or should you tune your gear ratio, so the outpout torque at the redline (when you change gear) is the highest?

For example

Setup 1:
rpm 5 gear (1.300) Setup 2: rpm 5 gear (1400)
4000 ****** 4000 ********
5000 1600ftlb 5000 1750ftlb
6000 1500ftlb 6000 1600ftlb
7000 1400ftlb 7000 1450ftlb
8000 1300ftlb 8000 1380ftlb

These numbers are fictional, and the reason setup 2 makes more output torque, is due to the shorter gear.

You should tune so that the gearing fits perfectly in unison with the power curve of the engine and of course for the track you are racing.

To answer your specific questions, you really need to graph out the values or build an excel table. My tuning calculator is almost done testing and will do most of this work for you. Although, it will not tell you which gearset is better then another, it will tell you how your current gearset is doing.

There are so many factors to consider when gearing... Read my thread for an easy tuning method that works for basically all cars. If you want to get even more accurate, you need to consider time in all your equations.

I find that testing on the track is one of the best ways to figure out how your changes are helping you. If between your gears, when you upshift, if the car land a few hundred rpm before peak HP and your have a relatively decent power curve, you will be maximizing acceleration for the most point.

Again, this is all 100% dependent on the power curve of the car. Cars with spikey curves benefit from shorter gearing while cars with very long power curves benefit from wider gearing.

Also, if you havent read the excerpt from carroll smith that I posted above, you should. It's very insightful.
 
You should tune so that the gearing fits perfectly in unison with the power curve of the engine and of course for the track you are racing.

To answer your specific questions, you really need to graph out the values or build an excel table. My tuning calculator is almost done testing and will do most of this work for you. Although, it will not tell you which gearset is better then another, it will tell you how your current gearset is doing.

There are so many factors to consider when gearing... Read my thread for an easy tuning method that works for basically all cars. If you want to get even more accurate, you need to consider time in all your equations.

I find that testing on the track is one of the best ways to figure out how your changes are helping you. If between your gears, when you upshift, if the car land a few hundred rpm before peak HP and your have a relatively decent power curve, you will be maximizing acceleration for the most point.

Again, this is all 100% dependent on the power curve of the car. Cars with spikey curves benefit from shorter gearing while cars with very long power curves benefit from wider gearing.

Also, if you havent read the excerpt from carroll smith that I posted above, you should. It's very insightful.

Yes, the torque/hp curve is also important. Thats why some cars have higher top speed with longer gears, because short gears will generate lower "hp" to the wheels. Thats why my supra was a little bit faster with longer gears, because the hp dropped after 7000rpm, so under 7000rpm is to aim for that speficic gear. Im doing some testing, and will post the result if my theory is true.
 
That picture makes me laugh. How can first gear create more power and torque then any gear above it?

Maybe you haven't been around a dyno to see the results for yourself.

Seriously... You are trolling at this point. Dyno's do not work in any way like you think...

First gear create higher acceleration then any other gear. Hence, why the tq output on the chart is higher. Please stop posting, I feel like you are derailing this thread.

Everything you have said is so far beyond wrong, its borderline trolling. I can't tell the difference honestly.

I found this online. Maybe this will help you.
Power = Work / Time

We have an answer. Somewhere the computer factored in the bearing drag, and it throws some constants into those formulas to get the numbers to come out into the right units, but you get the idea.

The computer then back-calculates the torque using the formula mentioned previously. Those of you with a knack for physics will realize that the torque produced in first gear at the tire-drum interface will be significantly greater than that produced in fifth gear. Since the rpm of the engine is factored in, the different speeds developed by the different gears are negated - therefore, one can say that the computer reports "engine torque as measured at the wheels."
 
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what the hell are you going on about sir?

power to me = hp, there's no mention of hp there

the figures in the gear columns are engine torque at a given RPM * gear ratio. through the wonder of gear multiplication, would you not agree that 1st gear will pull hardest?
 
There is so much this and that.

Has a car been agreed upon? (too much to look through)

What is it and the mod restriction/specs etc I want in.

I'll reveal my easy beginners trick when there is one made of these formulas, by the person claiming they are proven best/better than auto tune, for a comparison.

BTW the dyne graph in the game BLOWS....
 
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There is so much this and that.

Has a car been agreed upon? (too much to look through)

What is it and the mod restriction/specs etc I want in.

I'll reveal my easy beginners trick when there is one made of these formulas, by the person claiming they are proven best/better than auto tune, for a comparison.

As stated earlier by me, I'll be gone till Monday. I can gear tune a car in 20 minutes.
 
articzap
As stated earlier by me, I'll be gone till Monday. I can gear tune a car in 20 minutes.

Okay talk to you Monday... Or do you have a set up to post from a past tune using your system?

Anybody got something to put down? I hear a lot of theories but has somebody put up a set up derived of the theories for comparison yet?
 
Okay talk to you Monday... Or do you have a set up to post from a past tune using your system?

Anybody got something to put down? I hear a lot of theories but has somebody put up a set up derived of the theories for comparison yet?

Once we pick a car next week, and the race is done, I'll post the transmission tune for it.👍
 

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