If he did, he's wrong.
"The selections of optimum gear ratios is important, not only in terms of lap time but also in terms of driveablity...
The basic rules are very simple:
1) Determine and use the optimum rpm in top gear, the optimum maximum rpm in the intermediate gears and the optimum shift point.
2) Top gear is selected for the straight(s). The intermediate gears are selected for the corners and for the most efficient acceleration.
3) It is better to have too few rpm at a corner apex that too many.
4) Always split the torque as many ways as practical - use the maximum practical number of gears on any given road racing cicuit. "
"I tend to be pretty conservative in this department, usually opting to go about 200rpm over what I think is the installed max power point- but only with the cooperation and agreement of the engine builder."
"Maximum corrected horsepower is 248.2bhp at 9200 RPMs. Assuming a 1000rpm drop from fourth to fifth, we will calculate the "area under the horsepower curve" for various maximum rpm in top gear. Shifting at peak horsepower and dropping 1000rpm we see (in top gear):
8200 225.1hp
8400 233.7
8600 236.8
8800 242.3
9000 244.2
9200 248.8
---------------------------
1428.2 total horsepower
Raising the max rpm to 9400 produces:
8400 233.7
8600 236.7
8800 242.3
9000 244.2
9200 248.2
9400 247.0
---------------------------------
1452.2 total HP - a 1.7% improvement
9600 rpm results in:
8600 243.8
8800 242.3
9000 244.2
9200 248.2
9400 247.0
9600 243.8
-----------------------------------------
1462.3 total HP - a 0.7% further improvement
Continuing the exercise to 9800 gives us:
8800 242.3
9000 244.2
9200 248.2
9400 247.0
9600 243.8
9800 223.0
-----------------------------------------------
1455.0 total HP - and a performance decrease.
"By carrying the rpm in top gear beyond the max power point, we pick up a significant amount of total power. There probably won't be any difference in top speed, but the difference in E.T. in top gear will be measurable. The downside is reduced reliability and loss of the ability to take advantage of a tow.
I tend to be pretty conservative in this department, usually opting to go about 200rpm over what I think is the installed max power point - but only with the cooperation and agreement of the engine builder."
THE SHIFT POINT
Exactly the same parameters apply to the selection of the optimum rpm at which we should shift gears. This points to a couple of basic truths:
1) For maximum performance you always have to shift past the peak of the horsepower curve
2) Depending on the shape of the curve and the gear splits, you don't have to go very far over the peak.
3) There is a point after which more rpm equates to less performance, not more.
esoxhntrTHIS. Provided the Final Drive is the same. Let me say it again, torque at wheels = engine torque * gear ratio * final drive - drivetrain losses. We cannot account for drivetrain losses but let's assume they are the same in every gear.
Yes, so this information isnt going to help us either, i recomend everyone looking at my examples, there are much data to be analyzed.
I need the RPM drop for each estimated shift point to make any analyzations. Using 500 rpm increments really makes it hard to get exact numbers.
using RPM * (gear2ratio/gear1ratio) to get rpm drop
we get 7900 * (2.33/3.241) = 5679rpm
so from 7900 in 1st we drop to 5680 in 2nd.
If your chart/table are correct I would shorten 2nd (or lengthen 1st since you propably have wheelspin issues )
Hmm, it is gettin even more complex, and this is why:using RPM * (gear2ratio/gear1ratio) to get rpm drop
we get 7900 * (2.33/3.241) = 5679rpm
so from 7900 in 1st we drop to 5680 in 2nd.
If your chart/table are correct I would shorten 2nd (or lengthen 1st since you propably have wheelspin issues )
Right.
Ignore final drive for now, we are only interested in finding optimum shift points & ultimately, it has no effect on that since it is a constant (same in every gear). Once you figure out the optimum gears to use to accelerate, you can use Final Drive to adjust your top speed.
Best way is to create a spreadsheet that looks like this:
Where you plug in your Ratios (column L), Shift Points (Column M) and Torque (Column B) and have the spreadsheet calculate things for you and find the best setup and (possibly) a better place to shift instead of 7900 rpm.
NP. It's all here: http://www.allpar.com/eek/hp-vs-torque.html
Yeah, I have been on that page numerous times. Problem is the guy says a few very misleading things.
"Note - and this is important - the transmission does not amplify power.
Power in = power out, minus losses
(which are low for a manual transmission)."
While he is 100% correct, this gives off the idea that tuning your transmission does not effect acceleration, which is completely wrong.
Gear ratios exist to help reduce the spinning rate of the engine into usable power at the wheels. In this process, more TQ is "created". Obviously, its not created. It is converted. It was always there in one way or another.
Tuning each transmission gear absolutely has an effect on acceleration and in the end, that is what truly matters. The reason these tables work is not because we are assuming the the transmission and final drive are creating more power, its because we are looking how an individual gear changes the way it looks.
Having the right gearset for the right power curve does increase acceleration. And that does matter.
That is verry true, an the question is how accurate one can be doing all this calculations?I never think there would be a ultimate setup, considering the transmission is very complex.
But if i ask this question:
1. If i change to a specific gear, and i land on for example 6000rpm, which gives me output torque 1500, and i redline at 7900rpm, which reduces the output torque to 1300. I loose 200 output torque from 6000rpm to 7900 right.
2. If i instead change the ratio of a gear, and that makes me land on 7000rpm (shorter gear) after i change gear, which give me output torque 1450 and i rev to 7900rpm which gives me output torque 1380. With the rpm landing on "higher" i get reduced output torque, but at redline i get higher output torque comparing to "1" example.
The question is, should you aim to land at a rpm that gives you the most output torque for the moment, or should you tune your gear ratio, so the outpout torque at the redline (when you change gear) is the highest?
For example
Setup 1:
rpm 5 gear (1.300) Setup 2: rpm 5 gear (1400)
4000 ****** 4000 ********
5000 1600ftlb 5000 1750ftlb
6000 1500ftlb 6000 1600ftlb
7000 1400ftlb 7000 1450ftlb
8000 1300ftlb 8000 1380ftlb
These numbers are fictional, and the reason setup 2 makes more output torque, is due to the shorter gear.
You should tune so that the gearing fits perfectly in unison with the power curve of the engine and of course for the track you are racing.
To answer your specific questions, you really need to graph out the values or build an excel table. My tuning calculator is almost done testing and will do most of this work for you. Although, it will not tell you which gearset is better then another, it will tell you how your current gearset is doing.
There are so many factors to consider when gearing... Read my thread for an easy tuning method that works for basically all cars. If you want to get even more accurate, you need to consider time in all your equations.
I find that testing on the track is one of the best ways to figure out how your changes are helping you. If between your gears, when you upshift, if the car land a few hundred rpm before peak HP and your have a relatively decent power curve, you will be maximizing acceleration for the most point.
Again, this is all 100% dependent on the power curve of the car. Cars with spikey curves benefit from shorter gearing while cars with very long power curves benefit from wider gearing.
Also, if you havent read the excerpt from carroll smith that I posted above, you should. It's very insightful.
That picture makes me laugh. How can first gear create more power and torque then any gear above it?
Maybe you haven't been around a dyno to see the results for yourself.
Power = Work / Time
We have an answer. Somewhere the computer factored in the bearing drag, and it throws some constants into those formulas to get the numbers to come out into the right units, but you get the idea.
The computer then back-calculates the torque using the formula mentioned previously. Those of you with a knack for physics will realize that the torque produced in first gear at the tire-drum interface will be significantly greater than that produced in fifth gear. Since the rpm of the engine is factored in, the different speeds developed by the different gears are negated - therefore, one can say that the computer reports "engine torque as measured at the wheels."
There is so much this and that.
Has a car been agreed upon? (too much to look through)
What is it and the mod restriction/specs etc I want in.
I'll reveal my easy beginners trick when there is one made of these formulas, by the person claiming they are proven best/better than auto tune, for a comparison.
articzapAs stated earlier by me, I'll be gone till Monday. I can gear tune a car in 20 minutes.
Okay talk to you Monday... Or do you have a set up to post from a past tune using your system?
Anybody got something to put down? I hear a lot of theories but has somebody put up a set up derived of the theories for comparison yet?
I thought this was a straight gear set up vs gear set up comp.
Why complicate it with other variables ?