$1,500 is too much IMO for an engine with little to no real information in regards to health @ that mileage. Plus you'd be surprised how quick you can rack up a $1,500 parts bill fixing the "little things" on a 1UZ.
Things I take with me when entertaining the idea of buying an engine in a car that runs:
- Portable 5 Gallon Air Tank (Mine will hold 150psi)
- Basic Hand Tool Set
- Multi-Meter
- Compression Tester
- Leak Down Tester
- 40W Oil in a Small Squirt Can
- Cooling System pH Test Strips
- Oil Filter Cutter
- Replacement Oil Filter
- Bright Flashlight
- Timing Light (Not always, circumstantial.)
Flashlight, compression tester, air tank/leak down tester/oil can, multi-meter and hand tools are all pretty self explanatory.
pH strips are nice because even after a system has been flushed and look nice, it may still be acidic from prior poor maintenance or lack there of. This can lead to electrolysis corrosion, or it's already started.
I've gotten a lot of dirty looks from people asking to take off and cut open their oil filter. Honestly I don't care, stare me down all you want. I want to know what's been going through the engine. It's worth the $5.00-$8.00 to replace their filter if I'm not interested. I'd say about 2% we're fine with me cutting them open. Plus it's usually the last thing I would do in a run down, basically being seriously interested in the engine.
Example: Me and a friend went to go check out a "freshly built and broken in" B20-VTEC engine still installed and running in a EK9 Civic. Car gets warmed up, we do some peeking under the hood as it comes up to temp. Looks like a clean install and VTEC conversion, no odd noises or hesitations, very pleased with it visually. Shut the car off and proceed to hook up my air tank and leak down tester, fails at 25% leak down. We tell the guy we're no longer interested and start packing up.
Sellers Response - "You guys haven't even driven it yet, it pulls soooo hard!"
Our Response - "Doesn't matter. Engine is poorly built, not worth the risk for your asking price. Would cost more to fix when it blows then us building a motor from scratch."
Sellers Response (With Attitude) - "Why are you guys here wasting my time then? I swear Craiglist and all the tire kickers looking for joy rides!"
Our Response - "Why are YOU wasting OUR time? Leak down does not lie. Your engine build is un-documented (no clearances for anything), just a stack of receipts for CP Pistons, Skunk2 Cams, blah blah blah. Plus we have cash in hand (flashed him the stack) and didn't even drive the car to "test" the engine."
Sellers Response - "GTFO you guys have no idea what you're talking about, this is a 200WHP engine all day!"
Our Response - "Until it: grabs a bearing, spins a bearing, stops making compression since your rings will probably never seal, butts a piston ring because you don't know what your gaps are, or any other clearance for that matter. The list goes on, we're leaving."
6-8 weeks later what's on Craigslist again? His now blown up B20-VTEC. Listing description states "Engine runs, making noise and cannot determine the source, need to sell to fund my K20 swap." LOL, no thanks chief! Nor was this the only instance where friends and I have gone to look at engines that are either just straight junk, or poorly assembled.
You can say we're anal, but I'd say we're thorough. I don't know about you guys but I don't like getting bent over and reamed. You can flash all the receipts you want for parts, swear up and down it's reliable or in good health. Basic tests will show otherwise. Some people will take offense to this process, I have no problem being the bearer of bad news or "that guy." My favorite sales pitch has always been "Maintained/Built by ASE Certified Tech." 👎
Of all the cars, boats, and motorcycles I've looked at on Craigslist, the worst ones are being sold by these guys.