- 11,660
- GTP_Orido
The video is still private when clicking on the link
The video is still private when clicking on the link
Probably because it automatically logs you in on youtube. Happens if you click the "remember me" option.Let me know if the direct link works, oddly the embedded video comes up private for me too when I click on it in the thread, and I posted it (weird) but the link brings it to YouTube where it plays fine.
No matter what I do, the rear tyres are always at their limit while the front tyres would still have some grip left for better braking. It's not necessarily the absolute strength, it's more the balance which is messed up."The RGT, Miura and NSX are all within 1 second"
This sound good.... Would like a lot to be in as a tester. Strange that you've found the car so nasty under brake, myself i'm not a "no ABS" frequent driver, but i didn't feel this at all.
Perhaps it's because i don't use a lot of brakes, even with ABS. With this 2/1 BB setting i'm able to brake strong in a straight line and release almost everything before turning the wheel till inducing a light oversteer oriented to apex. The driving input need to be very sharp.
The G27 brake pedal is not so good for this , when back on my wheel i pretend to drive more no ABS, adding something under the breaking pedal , like extra spring or foam ball....
Need to test several things..
><(((((°>°°°°°°°°°°°
I think Roj has Praiano's Yellowbird hosted. Or was it the Miura.....?
MiuraI think Roj has Praiano's Yellowbird hosted. Or was it the Miura.....?
Need to inform in post 2 that my Miura is shared by VTiRoj. I can't add some new friends till day 23 +-
If new testers that are not in my friend list need to test my yellowbird , somebody will have to build it too....
Thanks again.
praiano63
Yellow Bird
Muira Shared by VTiRoj
Started shooting FRs everwhichway today to try and get ahold of all the cars.
I think I have you added already, do I not? Just checking.
Miura
I think Jonnypenso has the YB, but I could be wrong.
That Yellowbird on my profile is not Praiano's it's a hybrid, Yellowbird on an RGT chassis if memory serves. I don't think I've even driven it yet.
All this talk of no ABS BB's always makes me wonder. I have seen guys before post about using balances like 5/4, 7/2 etc. I've tried to use them with my DFGT and G27 and always locked them up with less than 50% pedal travel. As I lowered the BB I found I could use more pedal which allows for much more accurate braking. I can still lock up at 2/0 or 3/0 on most cars, so I figured what's the point of going to 7/2? Breaking distances aren't shorter with any figure higher than what creates lockup.
As for Rido's 9/8, not a chance. Heavy breathing on the pedal would make it lockup. Got to be a huge difference in equipment for that kind of BB to even be functional.
Thank my stick for making high BB possible and easy to manage. I always use the HUD red brake bar for reference of brake force, it indicates how much total BB value used from how high it fills before lock ups occur at certain speed + tire combo.
With 9/8 BB, on comfort tires, I can go up to 50-60% red bar filled before lock up on higher speed and around 25-35% on low speed ( less than 50mph ) - using DS2 stick face button - circle for gas, triangle for brake. A total BB of 10 would allow up to 75-80% red bar before lock up on medium speed, 5/3 BB would be very ideal for hard braking, at high speed I can have 100%, then decreasing to 75%-60% at low speed.
I don't know how this red brake bar percentage translated to pedal - how much travel or how deep before reaching 25% red bar ? As long as the driver is comfortable to modulate the brake with the pedal at quarter/half travel, then high BB is possible without ABS.
I used to have old PC T2 Thrustmaster wheel, and I used to modulate the brakes when playing GP3, I could modulate with only 50-75% pedal travel at max before locking up - a bit hard at first though - it was sensitive to pressure.
This is why with no ABS, BB is very personal and not tune related anymore
I believe the point is, why use only 50% brake travel when you can use closer to 100%? Locking up at 51% gives you no better braking than locking up at 98%, but being able to get to 98% before lockup gives you a much wider range in which to operate and therefore more accuracy.
The G27 pedals as far as I can tell are completely linear. About 2" or so of travel and you reach 100% on the brake bar about 1/8" from the end.
YYEEEEEEESSSSS!!!!!!!!!
Rojjie's M5 finally did it!!! It broke the 🤬 2:07 mark in its last lap!!!
Dear god, I'm dead now. But it's nice to see a 2:06 time.
It's such a heavy car and the rear brake doesn't seem to help at all.
The car starts doing weird things with stronger rear brakes though; I'm quite sure it's due to very soft front settings.
All in all not the most enjoyable drive, but we shouldn't expect too much of a super heavy car like the M5.
SOMEONE HERE to TAME MY MAMMOTH AUDI RS 6 ' 02
That tidbit about the G27 pedal is interesting and may be the problem.
My DFGT won't hit 100% until I hit max travel, and that's more then 2" travel. I gotta push hard near the end too. 25% travel gives 25% red bar on the screen, 50 = 50, 75 = 75 and so on.
If you get 100% brake indicated on the screen but are not pushing the pedal all the way, the problem is the pedals and the lower BB value is to accommodate the G wheels pedals. That could be a common trait of the G25 and 27, sounds like it may be the case. Also 2" of pedal travel is not that much.
I opened my pedal set and cleaned out the insides of hair and dust (dog and cat) it's been much more presise since. I think dirty sensors may be why others using the DFGT feel 0 ABS and a unmodified set of DFGT pedals are near impossible to drive with yet that's just the way I drive.
The DFGT is about 2.5" of travel, the G27 about 2". It's only the last 1/8" of so that's full pedal, which is 6% of the travel distance. I don't think that has anything to do with it, it's just that the higher the BB the less travel you have to work with, regardless of what pedals you use. I've done noABS with both the DFGT and G27 and the G27 is far superior and much more accurate for me.
When you go from one car where you can use the whole pedal in braking and get real comfortable with it, then go to another where you're locking up at 40% you have to completely reorient your braking foot to the new car. Must be easier for some people because I don't find it that easy...
On your G27 does it hit full brake on the screen before full depression.
I believe the point is, why use only 50% brake travel when you can use closer to 100%? Locking up at 51% gives you no better braking than locking up at 98%, but being able to get to 98% before lockup gives you a much wider range in which to operate and therefore more accuracy.
The G27 pedals as far as I can tell are completely linear. About 2" or so of travel and you reach 100% on the brake bar about 1/8" from the end.
There lies my point, think about it. 2.5 vs 2 is a 25% increase in travel, on top of you don't even get 2 full inch of travel. That's quite a bit less travel distance overall. If you give the G27 6% dead zone, thats about 30% more travel in DFGT then a G27. That actually makes allot of sense to me and explains quite a bit.
From my experience the pedals on the DFGT leave much to be desired however they don't require compensation in the brake balance to accommodate a much reduced amount of travel to work with.
By lowering the BB you effectively stretch out pressure across the reduced travel to make it easier to work with. It's like exponential settings on a RC transmitter and servo used for both steering and throttle/brake, a near must on high power hobby grade RC's.
On the flip side using those low BB settings with the DFGT pedals requires waaaaay too much travel on the brake pedal, and to get the job done I'd have to bury the pedal in every hard corner.
That means low BB on the DFGT will be crap for both of our driving styles while low BB is perfectly suited to the G27.
I always take a few laps to get used to new cars and lowering the rear BB is often a first step as the default 5/5 with 0-ABS is not good for most cars. I usually start at 6/3 and work from there.
The BB in that particular video allowed for quite late braking in the rain on CM tire and I was very comfortable with the amount of brake needed until very close to lock up - 1st chicane on 1st and 2nd lap. The car also did got easier to lock up in the rain, I was modulating the brake at 70-75% at most ( not travel but the red bar )
I never knew G27 has short pedal travel, must be a real pain, I always thought that to get 100% brake ( red bar HUD ), burying the foot would be needed and the travel/resistance relation would be like in real car ( harder as it gets closer to full travel )
Two things. I see most of the braking at 50% or less strength in the video most of the time and the stock springs in the G27 are not very progressive. You need an aftermarket kit for that and I intend to get it at some point, but I find the stock pedals pretty good anyway, far superior to the stock DFGT, although they ended up pretty good when I modded them.
As I mentioned earlier, I have both wheels, and slightly shorter throw and all, the G27 is far superior to the DFGT in terms of accuracy. The movement of brake/throttle is 100% linear. With the DFGT it was close but not quite 100% accurate. Driving without ABS is easier with the G27 and I use the exact same settings I used with the DFGT, 2/0, 3/0, 3/1 etc. Interesting to note that all the cars I've tested so far all have typical brake balances that I would normally use in setting up a car, but for one, and it's only slightly off (1 too high in the rear) and they were all pretty fast and relatively easy to drive. Either they are all wrong...or...💡💡
Now that I've got 50 laps in without ABS, I'll go back and test Rido's car and yours if I can find out where it's on share.
Two things. I see most of the braking at 50% or less strength in the video most of the time and the stock springs in the G27 are not very progressive. You need an aftermarket kit for that and I intend to get it at some point, but I find the stock pedals pretty good anyway, far superior to the stock DFGT, although they ended up pretty good when I modded them.