The Thrustmaster T500RS Thread

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I've had a Thrustmaster since March and I really like the wheel and quality feel of the pedals, but I'm having some issues with the brake pedal and wanted to some feedback since most everyone here seems to really like the brake pedal.

I love the feel and pressure of the pedal but there seems to be a massive dead zone on initial input which was royally screwing me up the last few nights in my league races. I haven't used my rig in over a month since I was out of the country, but also haven't raced low hp cars in a while. I don't notice the issue with high hp cars as you apply more pressure for longer periods vs racing with low hp momentum cars, low hp cars only need short and light brake inputs, and the brake (at least on my system) has a delay or a dead zone on where my foot begins to put pressure on the pedal compared to when the game recognizes that I have applied pressure to the brake. It feels like I have to apply the brake 10 - 15% to get the brake to register within GT, and it's even worse on brake release and trail braking. So what happens is going into a sweeper I'll breathe on the brake then breathe off it again only to notice that I'm only slowing down by scrubbing speed and not by braking; I don't see any brake input on my tv, but my foot still has decent brake pressure applied to the pedal, so it's got to be a dead zone, right? Frankly the issue is driving me nuts and making my driving inconsistent.

I'm going to try some different things with removing the "real brake mod" foam tonight, and see if reducing the required pressure helps to resolve the issue, if it doesn't I'm going to contact Thrustmaster unless you all have experienced this dead zone and that is just how the system is designed.

Has anyone experienced some lag or dead zone in their brake? Also, I've updated all the firmware and run the brake tests on my pc; all is checking out and updated.

Thanks for any tips, comments, or advice. 👍

Cheers!
 
Hi all,

Just like to ask if anyone has any issues on the T500RS pedals as I have read they are running on potentiometers. Any chance that the pots become sticky after intensive use i.e. brake or accel pedal never goes to 0% completely even though foot is off pedals.

Am already running a GT3RSV2 and CSPs but the reviews on T500RS is really swaying me to get one even though Fanatec is launching a new wheel soon (Soon probably means some time still). As soon as TM launches the shifter I think I will just jump in for the T500RS.

Look forward to some replies.

Cheers
 
SpecMiata-JSW
I've had a Thrustmaster since March and I really like the wheel and quality feel of the pedals, but I'm having some issues with the brake pedal and wanted to some feedback since most everyone here seems to really like the brake pedal.

I love the feel and pressure of the pedal but there seems to be a massive dead zone on initial input which was royally screwing me up the last few nights in my league races. I haven't used my rig in over a month since I was out of the country, but also haven't raced low hp cars in a while. I don't notice the issue with high hp cars as you apply more pressure for longer periods vs racing with low hp momentum cars, low hp cars only need short and light brake inputs, and the brake (at least on my system) has a delay or a dead zone on where my foot begins to put pressure on the pedal compared to when the game recognizes that I have applied pressure to the brake. It feels like I have to apply the brake 10 - 15% to get the brake to register within GT, and it's even worse on brake release and trail braking. So what happens is going into a sweeper I'll breathe on the brake then breathe off it again only to notice that I'm only slowing down by scrubbing speed and not by braking; I don't see any brake input on my tv, but my foot still has decent brake pressure applied to the pedal, so it's got to be a dead zone, right? Frankly the issue is driving me nuts and making my driving inconsistent.

I'm going to try some different things with removing the "real brake mod" foam tonight, and see if reducing the required pressure helps to resolve the issue, if it doesn't I'm going to contact Thrustmaster unless you all have experienced this dead zone and that is just how the system is designed.

Has anyone experienced some lag or dead zone in their brake? Also, I've updated all the firmware and run the brake tests on my pc; all is checking out and updated.

Thanks for any tips, comments, or advice. 👍

Cheers!
Click to expand...


Hi,

I did have same experience as you !

After using T500RS for two nights, I switched back G27 with Perfect Pedal brake mod.

I recevied Fanatec 911 GT2 with ClubSport Pedal last night. I will try GT2 + G27 pedal (with perfect pedal) for coming weekend.

I will try GT2 + CSP next week as the CSP tuning kit is wrongly shipped back to my friend's home (USA). CSP Tuning Kit is on the way to my home (Hong Kong).

Someone in gtplanet here stated that it is due to gear problem on T500RS brake module.
 
Falaut
I've been waiting since its been announced to get one based on whether the shifter was coming. I just got one online at futureshop.ca for $558 taxes in (2 hours of phone hell to get a price "beat" adjustment).

So, reading stuff like this does not make me a happy person. Sure I know its under warranty, but I do want to enjoy something I've been waiting half a year for without having to send it back within a week.

Jonzter and Kkalp...if you don't mind my asking, what level of FFB where you guys using?
Click to expand...

Checked my GT5 settings last night, says FFB is set to "5" on scale of 1-10 and I do not remember ever changing it so I assume that was the setting when I used it before it initially died.

Now for the really bad news:
Got my wheel back yesterday. Hooked everything back up. Fired up GT5, played for about 30 minutes, then let a friend sit down and try it out. He was playing for about 15 minutes and then calls out, "stop packing up your tools and putting the box away". It died again -- exact same symptoms, the power light on the device turned off and the unit stopped responding. Tried again to attach to my laptop, the wheel was completely invisible on USB.

#$@%#!!!

Called Thrustmaster Support, they say they will try to fast-track me an RMA shipper and send me a new base as soon as they receive this one.

I have now "owned" the T500RS for 5 weeks, had it in repair for over 4 weeks, and only used it for 3.5 hours. W...T...F! :crazy:
 
@kkalp

My regards to you sir. Thank you for the info, and I hope the racing gods will grace you with a replacement soon. I'm not telling you what to do, but if I was you, I'd be talking to TM:not only about how I'm posting this very poor experience on forums and actually swaying some people not to buy the product, but also having them compensate you for this ridiculousness.

You know, any person with half a brain knows that things break. Mechanical and electrical components wear and are prone to strain or manufacturing related failure. I worked at a dealership for 5+ years and I can't tell you how many times I heard people from the front of the service department yellin "this is why I bought a Honda, they're not supposed to break"! Oh really mister I graduated with a engineering degree. I actually had one guy (that once again identified himself as an engineer) that tried to explain to me how internal combustion engines, if "built right", don't USE up any oil. wow just wow...anyways, I'm ranting. Having said all that, your experience kkalp...not cool...not cool.

edit: seriously, for the trouble, they should flat out send you another wheel as soon as you made the latest ticket.
 
Last edited:
@Falaut

Thanks for the support.

I feel like an idiot for not just returning it to Amazon.com in the first place -- but I had a friend who had an issue a few years back where he had a new item sent to him missing some parts, and he went through all hell trying to get them to reconcile the situation, so I figured I would do it "right" and work with the manufacturer. A good reminder to me that playing by the rules never works out in the end... :dunce:

On top of that, my buddy who got to use it for 15 minutes agrees: It really is worth the pre
 
Hi !
I buy my T 500RS 16.03.2011 and use on PC,till now I don`t have any problem with it.

Gain settings is:
Overall Strenght of all force: 60%
Constant: 100%
Periodic 100%
Spring: 25%
Dumper: 0%

It`s approximately the same settings with my old G25:

p.s.
I drive about 3-5 hours a day :sly:
 
mykem
What most people seems to forget is that better FFB especially in the case of the T500RS where you're also getting a more powerful motor/effects means that it will take more effort to steer/drive which means your lap times will/might be slower. Of course, in most cases you will either turn the FFB to make it more manageable and/or build strength and technique to compensate for the stronger FFB.

Just think about it: one of the (many) reason why most of us will be slower in a real car is that it requires more effort and power to drive than it does with a FFB wheel although wheels like the T500RS have further blurred the line..
Click to expand...

Actually, my Thrustmaster is a llot stiffer than my mazda 626. I get much more of a work out driving in my cockpit than I do my real car, this is coming from a Colombian where roads are really tricky. Plus I think one of the reasons I have improved my lap times in the T500 is because of the stronger motor and the more powerfull force feeb back. This quality makes for a more precise drive. I find myself pointing my tires more toward's where I want them to go. I found the G27's gear system a bit to soft for my taste.
 
kkalp77
@Falaut

Thanks for the support.

I feel like an idiot for not just returning it to Amazon.com in the first place -- but I had a friend who had an issue a few years back where he had a new item sent to him missing some parts, and he went through all hell trying to get them to reconcile the situation, so I figured I would do it "right" and work with the manufacturer. A good reminder to me that playing by the rules never works out in the end... :dunce:

On top of that, my buddy who got to use it for 15 minutes agrees: It really is worth the pre
Click to expand...
...mium.

(Looks like I missed a few letters there!)
 
kkalp77
Checked my GT5 settings last night, says FFB is set to "5" on scale of 1-10 and I do not remember ever changing it so I assume that was the setting when I used it before it initially died.

Now for the really bad news:
Got my wheel back yesterday. Hooked everything back up. Fired up GT5, played for about 30 minutes, then let a friend sit down and try it out. He was playing for about 15 minutes and then calls out, "stop packing up your tools and putting the box away". It died again -- exact same symptoms, the power light on the device turned off and the unit stopped responding. Tried again to attach to my laptop, the wheel was completely invisible on USB.

#$@%#!!!

Called Thrustmaster Support, they say they will try to fast-track me an RMA shipper and send me a new base as soon as they receive this one.

I have now "owned" the T500RS for 5 weeks, had it in repair for over 4 weeks, and only used it for 3.5 hours. W...T...F! :crazy:
Click to expand...


Wow! Same symptoms? If this was a totally different unit then it sounds like you may want to consider powering your PS3 and T500 through a power line conditioner. If the second unit was repaired then shame on Thrustmaster.
 
It came...

DSC00596-1.jpg


...followed by, "I have to go to work in 1 hour but I really want to try this..." mounting job

DSC00599.jpg


coming from playing GT5 with a controller, yeah I don't even have to say it right. Everything seems to be working as it should. Did 3 laps in NurRing with an S2K. Awesome.
 
ah-bull
Hi,

I did have same experience as you !

After using T500RS for two nights, I switched back G27 with Perfect Pedal brake mod.

I recevied Fanatec 911 GT2 with ClubSport Pedal last night. I will try GT2 + G27 pedal (with perfect pedal) for coming weekend.

I will try GT2 + CSP next week as the CSP tuning kit is wrongly shipped back to my friend's home (USA). CSP Tuning Kit is on the way to my home (Hong Kong).

Someone in gtplanet here stated that it is due to gear problem on T500RS brake module.
Click to expand...

So is it safe to assume that we can't get rid of this issue because this is the way the brake is developed by Thrustmaster? I wonder how much that new "prefect pedal" upgrade is going to cost? :indiff:
 
Just a heads up for you T500 users. Check from time to time for screws either falling out or loosening. I had 1 fall out that came from behind the steering wheel (the 3 connector locations) and found the other 2 to be loose. I also found 2 on the front hub starting to get loose as well. I found those 2 from a little play in the feel of the wheel.

Just a little advice and a heads up. It also may be a good idea to not let the wifey do any vacuuming around your rig. Not until you check it out and then give her the go ahead.
 
SpecMiata-JSW
I've had a Thrustmaster since March and I really like the wheel and quality feel of the pedals, but I'm having some issues with the brake pedal and wanted to some feedback since most everyone here seems to really like the brake pedal.

I love the feel and pressure of the pedal but there seems to be a massive dead zone on initial input which was royally screwing me up the last few nights in my league races. I haven't used my rig in over a month since I was out of the country, but also haven't raced low hp cars in a while. I don't notice the issue with high hp cars as you apply more pressure for longer periods vs racing with low hp momentum cars, low hp cars only need short and light brake inputs, and the brake (at least on my system) has a delay or a dead zone on where my foot begins to put pressure on the pedal compared to when the game recognizes that I have applied pressure to the brake. It feels like I have to apply the brake 10 - 15% to get the brake to register within GT, and it's even worse on brake release and trail braking. So what happens is going into a sweeper I'll breathe on the brake then breathe off it again only to notice that I'm only slowing down by scrubbing speed and not by braking; I don't see any brake input on my tv, but my foot still has decent brake pressure applied to the pedal, so it's got to be a dead zone, right? Frankly the issue is driving me nuts and making my driving inconsistent.

I'm going to try some different things with removing the "real brake mod" foam tonight, and see if reducing the required pressure helps to resolve the issue, if it doesn't I'm going to contact Thrustmaster unless you all have experienced this dead zone and that is just how the system is designed.

Has anyone experienced some lag or dead zone in their brake? Also, I've updated all the firmware and run the brake tests on my pc; all is checking out and updated.

Thanks for any tips, comments, or advice. 👍

Cheers!
Click to expand...

This may be a dumb response but, you are doing the required calibration prior to starting the race? Just asking so don't flame me, you never know.
 
Don't worry, I'm not a flamer, lol!

I also have no idea about the calibration? Details please!
 
I use my Thrustmaster solely for GT as I haven't gotten into console racing, but I did plug my wheel into my laptop last night to check the firmware and calibration of the pedals. When checking the calibration of the brake on my laptop I noticed the dead zone was removed or reduced on my laptop, so the calibration may be needed in GT. I've never heard of it.

Thanks for any tips!
 
SpecMiata-JSW
I use my Thrustmaster solely for GT as I haven't gotten into console racing, but I did plug my wheel into my laptop last night to check the firmware and calibration of the pedals. When checking the calibration of the brake on my laptop I noticed the dead zone was removed or reduced on my laptop, so the calibration may be needed in GT. I've never heard of it.

Thanks for any tips!
Click to expand...

After the game loads up and the wheel is finished doing it's spinning calibration. Then you need to pump the brake and gas pedal about 4 or 5 times. I find it best to do it right before the countdown of the race start. If you do it while in the menu it will calibrate as well. The only thing is it will exit you around a bit.
 
Shogunz
Wow! Same symptoms? If this was a totally different unit then it sounds like you may want to consider powering your PS3 and T500 through a power line conditioner. If the second unit was repaired then shame on Thrustmaster.
Click to expand...

Exact same symptoms, exact same unit -- TM had me detach the steering wheel and just send back the motor base (w/out pedals, the wheel itself, or the power adapter), and then I waited for 3 weeks while they "fixed" it.

Here is the e-mail I received from them when they shipped it back:
There were a problem with some wired on the PCB, but the service department has soldered them in the right position, also they update the firmware on the wheel.
The wheel works fine and it was shipped today.
Here is the tracking number: ...
Feel free to contact us for any other information.
Click to expand...
After speaking with their support on Thursday night w/in 15 minutes of it dying (~7pm EDT), I was under the impression they were going to fast-track me an RMA. Friday at 1pm I get this e-mail:
Thank you for getting back to us.
Is there any LED powered up on the power adapter of the wheel?
Also can you check if the cables are not pinched.
We are looking forward to your answer.
Click to expand...
All of this was covered on my phone call Thursday night. I wrote them back:
No cables are pinched; I tried with and without the pedals attached. The LED on the power pack is on, the LED on the wheel is not.
I have been able to use this wheel for a total of 4 hours, and had it in my possession for 4 days out of the 37 since I purchased it.
I would rather just return everything (including the pedals and power supply) rather than waste any more of my time troubleshooting.
Click to expand...
(*I forgot that it was still in hand for another week before they got me the damn UPS label to ship it in, so technically I had it in possession for 11 days when I wrote this, but the point is the same...)

I have not heard back from them since, but that is typical. My experience has been: get an e-mail from TM, reply ... wait a day or two, call their support line, get reminded that I can e-mail instead of calling, tell them "I did that, and did not get a response", then have the person see the e-mail in their system, give me a status (often non-) update, and then reply to my e-mail immediately after the call. Brilliant.

When I had a problem with my G27, Logitech send me a return RMA shipper, received the unit, and shipped me out a new one as soon as they received the broken one -- all within 2 weeks, including shipping time.

Digging through this forum, I have seen as least two other cases of the same issue - the unit just goes dead. This is not a $75 Gamestop gaming wheel, this is a $600 piece of simulation equipment. This wheel should not break day one -- twice -- and their support certainly should be bending over backwards to satisfy their customers. At this point, I feel that Guillemot support is not just ineffective, they are deliberately aggravating.

I called Amazon.com yesterday to see what they could do for me -- they asked me to continue with the manufacturer for now, but if they do not respond within 5 business days with a proposed resolution they said they would waive the 30 day limit and let me return the wheel to them as a defective product. Every day I'm a little more pissed that I did not just return it in the first place.
 
Was just going to call Thrustmaster for today's update.

From their support page:
US English 18668895036 Free
Mon - Fri: 09:00-20:00 Eastern Time
Saturday : 08:00-14:00 Eastern Time
Click to expand...
It is ~10:00 EDT. "Our service is closed. You can get support on our website..."

GRRRRRRRrrrrr....:grumpy:
 
kkalp77
Exact same symptoms, exact same unit -- TM had me detach the steering wheel and just send back the motor base (w/out pedals, the wheel itself, or the power adapter), and then I waited for 3 weeks while they "fixed" it.

Here is the e-mail I received from them when they shipped it back:

After speaking with their support on Thursday night w/in 15 minutes of it dying (~7pm EDT), I was under the impression they were going to fast-track me an RMA. Friday at 1pm I get this e-mail:

All of this was covered on my phone call Thursday night. I wrote them back:

(*I forgot that it was still in hand for another week before they got me the damn UPS label to ship it in, so technically I had it in possession for 11 days when I wrote this, but the point is the same...)

I have not heard back from them since, but that is typical. My experience has been: get an e-mail from TM, reply ... wait a day or two, call their support line, get reminded that I can e-mail instead of calling, tell them "I did that, and did not get a response", then have the person see the e-mail in their system, give me a status (often non-) update, and then reply to my e-mail immediately after the call. Brilliant.

When I had a problem with my G27, Logitech send me a return RMA shipper, received the unit, and shipped me out a new one as soon as they received the broken one -- all within 2 weeks, including shipping time.

Digging through this forum, I have seen as least two other cases of the same issue - the unit just goes dead. This is not a $75 Gamestop gaming wheel, this is a $600 piece of simulation equipment. This wheel should not break day one -- twice -- and their support certainly should be bending over backwards to satisfy their customers. At this point, I feel that Guillemot support is not just ineffective, they are deliberately aggravating.

I called Amazon.com yesterday to see what they could do for me -- they asked me to continue with the manufacturer for now, but if they do not respond within 5 business days with a proposed resolution they said they would waive the 30 day limit and let me return the wheel to them as a defective product. Every day I'm a little more pissed that I did not just return it in the first place.
Click to expand...

Hey kkalp77, I had the same issue with my first unit. Except mine burnt up, stunk to high heaven too. Smelt like my den wiring caught on fire, lol.
After about 2 e-mail exchanges with Hercules in the end and about 2 e-mails with TM support. I got a UPS shipping PDF e-mail from Hercules in about a week. After I got confirmation from UPS pickup I then e-mailed Hercules again. Just to let them know, they already knew. In my amazement the return e-mail I received said they were not going to wait to investigate, repair/replace the wheel and that they were shipping me one out right away.
I got home the next day and guess what was sitting on my front porch? A whole new setup. When all I shipped back to them was a wheel. So for karmas sake I notified them and they said to keep the extra set of peddles for my trouble.
I do believe everything will work out for you in the end. I have good faith in TM support. It's just a bitch going through the hassle and wait. Vince
 
VINCE__
After the game loads up and the wheel is finished doing it's spinning calibration. Then you need to pump the brake and gas pedal about 4 or 5 times. I find it best to do it right before the countdown of the race start. If you do it while in the menu it will calibrate as well. The only thing is it will exit you around a bit.
Click to expand...

Thanks Vince, I'll give this a shot tonight when I log on. Did you notice a significant difference?
 
VINCE__
Hey kkalp77, I had the same issue with my first unit. Except mine burnt up, stunk to high heaven too. Smelt like my den wiring caught on fire, lol.
After about 2 e-mail exchanges with Hercules in the end and about 2 e-mails with TM support. I got a UPS shipping PDF e-mail from Hercules in about a week. After I got confirmation from UPS pickup I then e-mailed Hercules again. Just to let them know, they already knew. In my amazement the return e-mail I received said they were not going to wait to investigate, repair/replace the wheel and that they were shipping me one out right away.
I got home the next day and guess what was sitting on my front porch? A whole new setup. When all I shipped back to them was a wheel. So for karmas sake I notified them and they said to keep the extra set of peddles for my trouble.
I do believe everything will work out for you in the end. I have good faith in TM support. It's just a bitch going through the hassle and wait. Vince
Click to expand...

This is exactly what I mean. Vince got properly looked after and for all the trouble on a $500+ product was compensated with an extra set of pedals. Done. Kkalp is getting ****ed around, and reading stuff like this just boils my blood. When the customer does more troubleshooting and correspondence then the manufacturer....grrrrrrrrrr. I'm sorry, but I call clowns on TM support so far with Kkalp's experience.

edit: @ Kkalp - why not try your gift of gab with amazon seeing that they seem to be more responsive than the manufacturer? why not see if they'd be willing to send you a new set? just a suggestion.
 
Found on iRacing forum:
http://members.iracing.com/jforum/posts/list/1479817.page

Introducing RMK Pro Dash for Thrustmaster T500 RS wheel:
(Please PM if you are interested).

Almost finished my prototype dash for T500 RS.
The main idea is my dashboard is mounted ON original wheel body (with NO invasion to original wheel)
It can be hardmounted with the wheel on a rig (same two screw mounting system used)
All the buttons and encoders are just at your finger tips!
Dont have to reach aside to push (or find) a button
All the buttons stay in place (easy to use and adjust while moving the wheel )
Buttons and encoders carefully designed (in groups) to quickly learn where they are without looking
Sli-pro display does NOT move itself so its easier to look at and get information

On this actual photo you see also my Moving Paddles Mod + third party wheel mounted on my Basic Wheel Adapter Plate
(check other threads)

SLI-pro based
8 pushbuttons (knitter)
4 rotary encoders (two with a pushbutton)
2 rotary switches
5 aditional LEDs

img0488z.jpg

img0498bg.jpg
 
Last edited:
VINCE__
Bare in mind, over this last weekend it was a major holiday for Quebec.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/National_Holiday_(Quebec)
Click to expand...

Today's reply came in while I was at lunch:
Unfortunately we do no work in the week-ends, also we are located in France so when you call us here is very late. In order for us to contact the repair center we need to wait until the next day after your call to reach them.

The repair center realized last time when the wheel was here that someone changed some cables on the PCB, before we can start a RMA or an exchange of the wheel we need to know if you or someone else opened the wheel and tried to fix those cables on the PCB before it was sent to us the first time or even now after you received it.

We are looking forward to your answer.
Click to expand...
E-mail was sent at 12:02pm; they are in France, so they should be 4-5 hours ahead ... which means that they did not get around to responding until end of business. On top of that, they are now asking if I opened it up and started moving wires around. My reply:
I would recommend updating the Thrustmaster support page to remove the Saturday hours if your call center is not actually open on Saturdays.

I have never attempted to open the device; when I initially received it the inner and outer boxes appeared to have the original packing seals, so I do not think anyone else has tried to open it.
Click to expand...
Of course, it is "very late" there now, so I am not expecting a reply until tomorrow.
 

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