The Thrustmaster T500RS Thread
- Thread starter TomN
- 9,924 comments
- 2,164,604 views
- 87
- rex360hype
Haven't seen an actual estimate for the price yet... Well at least coming from TM. People are just shooting for $200, hopefully lower than that.
Some updates from their facebook page:
The TH8 RS features H.E.A.R.T HallEffect AccuRate Technnology™ for razor-sharp precision that won’t decrease over time (contactless magnetic sensor, with no “Tact switches” or potentiometers), and an unlimited lifespan.
All this teasing and marketing strategy is driving me nuts.
Some updates from their facebook page:
The TH8 RS features H.E.A.R.T HallEffect AccuRate Technnology™ for razor-sharp precision that won’t decrease over time (contactless magnetic sensor, with no “Tact switches” or potentiometers), and an unlimited lifespan.
All this teasing and marketing strategy is driving me nuts.
- 339
- terrible1fi
- 53
- mitchcarino
I have a playseat evo and a T 500. I had to drill two holes in the pedal rest. The playing angle is not that comfrotable. I'm still waiting for that T 500 pedal rest adapter from playseat.
Regarding Murree's question about the wheel feeling a bit notchy, I own both a G27 and a T 500. Some one above in this forum was correct whe describing the difference between a Logitech G series wheel and The T 500. The G's are grear driven, the G 25 uses straight gears, makes more noise, The G 27 uses helical gears, you can feel the gears on both of them. The T 500 is belt driven. The belt on the T 500 has rubber teeth on it. That is probably what Murree feels. I believe thrustmaster states that there is a break in period for the belt. It will be basically molding itself for the first couple of weeks. So I don't think there is nothing to be alarmed about feeling the knotches in a new wheel. I distinctly remember mine being different when at the begining of a driving session and then once it started to heat up the wheel would offer less resistance. After a couple of months of use it is now less noticable. Hope this helps.
Now to the dude that just returned his wheel because the fan was loud, You wasted your time. Your replacement is going to be exactly the same. The fan in the T 500 is crap.
mykem
Premium
- 1,260
Looking at the inside of the T500RS, the fan is quite accessible and replaceable. I would research and see which compatible fans are quietest bur here's a summary by AMW1011 on Tomshardware, on what makes a good case fan:
"There are a lot of things.
RPM = Rate of fan spinning. Higher the RPM, the higher the airflow and noise.
CFM = A general measurement of airflow. The higher, the better the cooling, in theory.
Static Pressure = the amount of CFM that penetrates heatsinks or radiator fins. The higher the better performance for heatsinks.
Size = Thicker fans tend to have better static pressure. I recommend a good 120mmx38mm for heatsinks.
DBA = A general noise measurement. The lower the better.
Quality = The better the quality, the more accurate the above ratings, and the longer lasting the fan.
Bearing type = This determines a lot. Here are some common ones.
-Sleeve. These are very quiet and inexpensive. However, their life span is pretty low depending on the quality. Some low quality ones have problems being mounted horizontally.
-Ball bearing. These are some of the most long lasting fans you can buy. They are also loud.
-Fluid. There are a lot of fluid bearings, such as hydro-ball bearings. These are quieter than ball bearing and longer lasting than sleeve. They tend to be unreliable with their airflow and RPMs.
-Proprietary. These are getting very common. They are odd designs made by companies. Just research them before you listen to the hype.
Brands I recommend: Yate Loon, for their quality, low-cost, and accurate ratings. Antec, they make good quality, sturdy fans. Scythe, they also make good fans. San Ace, these are extremely high airflow and noise fans that are unbeatable for heatsink cooling."
- 3,277
- Norfolk
- GTP_Hyper-Dan
You mean me? If so.. Then there is loud, and then there is loud and broken sounding..
I know how it sounded under normal operation, I had that wheel for 5 months and NEVER did it sound like this. 👍
- 485
- @Home
- WTF-MuRRe
Thanks a SO much for this.
I'm probably a overreacting. It's just that when you spend 422 euros on something like this, well you want it to be perfect
I will just use and hopefully some of it will go away.One other thing, when in the Control Panel, I just realised, the wheel isn't in the middle when the control panel shows 50%.
It's just a little off...
- 87
- rex360hype
Yup I meant the screws and allen wrench came with the playseat... LOL sorry bout that.
3 months ago I asked some guy from playseatamerica.com when the T500 pedal adapter will be available, his response was:
Hi,
It should be available around August 2011.
Thanks,
Nathan
Playseat America
This may change though...
3 months ago I asked some guy from playseatamerica.com when the T500 pedal adapter will be available, his response was:
Hi,
It should be available around August 2011.
Thanks,
Nathan
Playseat America
This may change though...
- 12
- Pleasant Hill, CA
- Sixxarp
I had that same issue and found the solution called out earlier in this thread (This is also posted in a PDF on Thrustmasters support site):
* PROCEDURE TO PERFECTLY CENTER THE WHEEL
1) Once the wheel is connected (and after the wheel has calibrated itself), turn the wheel completely to the left and then completely to the right.
2) Next, move the wheel to its perfectly centered position.
3) Simultaneously press and then release the START + SELECT + MODE buttons.
4) The wheels new central value is automatically and permanently saved in the wheels internal Flash memory
(note: do not repeat this procedure each time you reconnect the wheel).
IMPORTANT: Be sure not to not use this procedure too often, since there are a limited number of times that changes can be written to the wheels internal Flash memory.
= This procedure must be used only to modify the factory setting of the wheels central value.
. It should just overwrite the previous one.
- 7,711
- Indiana-USA
- OwensRacing
I don't think I will be paying 200 usd for that.
I can get a G27 from Newegg for 199 right now. I'd buy one and build another cockpit before paying 200 for just a shifter. Then have a back up in case the T500 breaks like so many have. Nervous about that really.
$150 usd should be top end pricing. You can get a butt kicker gamer 2 for $130. It has an amp, shaker, and remote. So with that much equipment being had for 130. I sure hope TM doesn't come out with a ridiculous price over $150 usd.
I can get a G27 from Newegg for 199 right now. I'd buy one and build another cockpit before paying 200 for just a shifter. Then have a back up in case the T500 breaks like so many have. Nervous about that really.
$150 usd should be top end pricing. You can get a butt kicker gamer 2 for $130. It has an amp, shaker, and remote. So with that much equipment being had for 130. I sure hope TM doesn't come out with a ridiculous price over $150 usd.
Should be but....the way they have been hyping it up, I am afraid they will be looking for more.
- 87
- rex360hype
Just get 2 M6 screws and the correct allen wrench. You will use 4 if you also hard mount the pedals. This will require some creativity since the drilled holes in the pedal stand are not aligned with the holes underneath the pedals from the get go. You can customize your pedal stand to make it more stable (drill holes through it or what I plan to do is attach a piece of wood under the pedal stand and drill a hole through that which is aligned with the holes of the pedals so you don't "damage" your pedal stand) or wait for the playseat pedal adapter which SHOULD come out this August. Emphasis on the SHOULD.
From TM support page:
The T500 RS, being a REAL SIMULATOR device, is designed to operate in cockpit-style setups and features multiple simple, robust and efficient attachment systems.
On the racing wheel:
Two attachment systems are available, separately or simultaneously:
1) Insert two M6 screws in the two Ø 8 mm threaded holes located under the wheel base
2) Use the provided mounting clamp and the wide metal tightening screw
Both of these systems are compatible with most racing wheel shelves featured in current cockpit designs.
On the pedal set:
An attachment system is available for both positions:
* F1 position (floor-mounted) : Insert 2 M6 screws in two of the six Ø 8mm threaded holes located beneath the pedal set
* GT/Rally position (suspended) : Insert two M6 screws in the two Ø 8mm threaded holes located beneath the pedal set.
Some pedal set shelves featured in certain current cockpit designs may require users to drill two additional holes for attachment purposes
Owing to its weight, the pedal set is intrinsically stable; it is therefore not necessary to attach it to a pedal set shelf.
Thrustmaster also works in close collaboration with a number of cockpit vendors, in order to quickly provide updates for both available and forthcoming cockpit designs.
Diagram:
http://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/accessories/Manuals/T500RS/T500_RS_Cockpit_Fixations.pdf
- 5,139
- SLO
- playnthru
It was one of Tech Supports stories
. After reading my "user manual", It does state 2 year warranty. 👍
Some very nice setups here with Fanatec or Thrustmaster wheels:
http://members.iracing.com/jforum/posts/list/1250/2255.page
Example: T500 RS + CST GT Pedals with Stiff Brake Upgrade + TSW Sequential Shifter + Rev Burner + Tach + GI Pro Shift Light,
http://members.iracing.com/jforum/posts/list/1250/2255.page
Example: T500 RS + CST GT Pedals with Stiff Brake Upgrade + TSW Sequential Shifter + Rev Burner + Tach + GI Pro Shift Light,
- 3,277
- Norfolk
- GTP_Hyper-Dan
So I got a set of sparco pedals that are no longer any use to me now I don't have the T500.. Can be seen here http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v738/dannyboyza4/?action=view¤t=21983a42.jpg
PM me if interested. 👍
PM me if interested. 👍
- 53
- mitchcarino
Yeah, those dudes at Thrustmaster Tech support are not to be trusted. I found them to be deceitfull and unfufilling of their warranty resposabilities. According to U.S. law, they should pay for shipping both ways in order to get the consumer a working product. I haven't been able to find a person in this forum that lives outside of the US that didnt have thrustmaster tech support try to wiggle out of this resposability. Instead of fixing the wheel or sending them a new one, thrustmaster sends out parts and has the end user fix the wheel creating the possibility for further damage. I wish you guys at thrustmaster would take a hint from Logitech in this sense. When my G27 broke they sent me a new one, no hassle within hours there was a ups truck parked outside my house in Latin America picking up my defective wheel. And within a week I had a new one in my room. A happy customer is the way to get new business. Disgrunteld users on the other hand yapping away on forums such as this one is probably what is hurting you the most. Can't say you guys dondt deserve it. Your staff is arrogant and dismissing. It's probably in the nature of your company though. A littel respect to the people who pay your salaries would probably go a long way. But you guys are probably as short sighted as the life of the fans installed on your wheels.
- 1,961
- Texas
- sandboxgod
Some very nice setups here with Fanatec or Thrustmaster wheels:
http://members.iracing.com/jforum/posts/list/1250/2255.page
Example: T500 RS + CST GT Pedals with Stiff Brake Upgrade + TSW Sequential Shifter + Rev Burner + Tach + GI Pro Shift Light,
Wow that setup costs way over 1k. Nice 👍
It was one of Tech Supports stories
Ah ok good to hear (or um, read)
Pretty cool film. Kind of funny tho he appears to be using the G25 stick with the T500rs. Still waiting to see what TM has planned for us so we can bring an end to this travesty
- 5,139
- SLO
- playnthru
I had the same problem with them. Stay after them, tell them you will post about your problems. That is what worked for me.👍 Get Mad
Sorry to read another Thrustmaster Horror story. Hope it gets a happy Ending.👍
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