The Thrustmaster T500RS Thread

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Another update:

The fan does run at 12V and 0.20A. However you shouldn't put anymore load on it as the electronics already get hot! Putting a fan on it with higher specs might cause it to burn through and is at your own risk.
 
My guess is that like with the tension springs, you'll have to replace the fan every year.

I'm thinking you got a bum wheel, both of my T500 are about a year old or so and they are driven hard every day and show no signs of problems like you are experiencing.
 
diptob79
^^ while you're at it, do you consider to run dedicated power supply for the fan?

Well, if I would really mod it to my desire and leaving out esthetics. I think I would make a cooling block of aluminum and use a high grade cooling paste. Then use a Dremel to cut out the fan intake and add a 60mm to 80mm fan duct with a fan that is temperature controlled with low noise levels and high air flow. Preferably a Papst.
That's just me fantasizing though.

I don't get why they didn't put a fan on the back of the motor while having a Zalman type of flower cooling block around the motor, so the air is blown around the entire engine and with optimum cooling surface.

left888
I'm thinking you got a bum wheel, both of my T500 are about a year old or so and they are driven hard every day and show no signs of problems like you are experiencing.

Could be. Hopefully I will have more luck with Fanatec products in the near future.
Maybe I should call my wheel in and see what the support guys think.

Again it's probably because of looks.
 
Sometimes when fan starts i hear louder noise, it feels like something is not runing perfectly, but it takes 30 sec to 1 min.

After that work normally.

I dont mind if he makes louder noise when working, my hi-fi system is prety loud when driving.

I am interested is there any danger for a wheel, or is just the thing that people doesnt like the loud fan?
 
Leemon
Sometimes when fan starts i hear louder noise, it feels like something is not runing perfectly, but it takes 30 sec to 1 min.

After that work normally.

I dont mind if he makes louder noise when working, my hi-fi system is prety loud when driving.

I am interested is there any danger for a wheel, or is just the thing that people doesnt like the loud fan?

According to TM this is because the fan needs to warm up its bearings before it runs smooth, like a car does its engine.
 
I'm thinking you got a bum wheel, both of my T500 are about a year old or so and they are driven hard every day and show no signs of problems like you are experiencing.

To be honest: I plan to request some more replacement fans, maybe 2 or 3. Since they seem to break quite often...well...:/

Might even get a better one instead, I'll take a look at the replacement and how easy it is to take it all apart.
 
Hey, does anybody have the new cover and fan replacement procedure? Thrustmaster never included it for me.

I can't get the 2 screws out that are closest to the wheel that hold the cover on.

Do i need to dismantle more of it to get the top cover off?

Cheers
 
The original fan is only 60x60x10mm. So 60x60x20mm is the max you can go. The new fan is just about to touch the motor's cooling fans. I haven't put the wheel completely together so when I do I'll try to take some pictures.

damnit 60x60x20mm is too big, the top won't close. Well, looks like I just wasted money. I'm going to buy another one, same brand, but this time 60x60x10mm for sure.
 
Just to update you guys. I had to swap my T500 V2 today at the shop due to fan issues and the chrome crapping out on a paddle.

I got a new V4 and it feels much better. It's like it's finished more properly. The paddle click seems closer to that of the CSR and CSR Elite in terms of noise and I reckon feel (travel is still the same). The V2 had torsion springs, the V4 has compression springs. The compression springs on the V4's clutch/gas paddles are weaker then the torsion springs on the V2, in terms of pressure that is. However the brake is firmer and I choose now to not use the brake mod because I'll have more travel to fine tune braking without ABS.

All in all I am happy. ^_^
 
My replacement fan / hood arrived today. Not bad. Yet, there wasn't a manual included. It seems pretty straight forward but I'd rather have a documentation for everything. Does anyone have a PDF version available?
 
Unfortunately not, plus my manual was in Dutch. :S

I'll give you a quick walk through for what it's worth.

Remove the 2 black screws left and right of the rim. Then put the wheel so that it rests on the rim. Remove all screws from the bottom and remove the cover carefully, the pedal input and usb cable might be stuck a bit. They slide right out.
Then remove the 2 screws you can see when looking on the plate facing towards the wheel. The two screws above them on the base, and there should be 2 more screws higher up on the plate. One to the left and one to the right (maybe under a cable) near the edge of the PCB and the black plastic base. Then remove the 2 screws for the power supply cable connection. Gently remove the upper cover (grey plus black part) after disconnecting the 2 pin fan cable on the right of the PCB. It should go off into a slot in the pcb to the right of the wheel. Else just be careful when taking the cover off.
Remove the grey parts from the old upper fan cover assembly and attach on the new. And do everything in reverse to put it back together.
 
Thanks dude!

I'll probably use a better fan anyway, so that I don't have to do all this again. Just need to find a good Papst fan in France now... :)
 
Just to update you guys. I had to swap my T500 V2 today at the shop due to fan issues and the chrome crapping out on a paddle.

I got a new V4 and it feels much better. It's like it's finished more properly. The paddle click seems closer to that of the CSR and CSR Elite in terms of noise and I reckon feel (travel is still the same). The V2 had torsion springs, the V4 has compression springs. The compression springs on the V4's clutch/gas paddles are weaker then the torsion springs on the V2, in terms of pressure that is. However the brake is firmer and I choose now to not use the brake mod because I'll have more travel to fine tune braking without ABS.

All in all I am happy. ^_^

Surely you have the same travel with or without the mod? It's just tougher to reach it with the mod?
 
Unfortunately not, plus my manual was in Dutch. :S

I'll give you a quick walk through for what it's worth.

Remove the 2 black screws left and right of the rim. Then put the wheel so that it rests on the rim. Remove all screws from the bottom and remove the cover carefully, the pedal input and usb cable might be stuck a bit. They slide right out.
Then remove the 2 screws you can see when looking on the plate facing towards the wheel. The two screws above them on the base, and there should be 2 more screws higher up on the plate. One to the left and one to the right (maybe under a cable) near the edge of the PCB and the black plastic base. Then remove the 2 screws for the power supply cable connection. Gently remove the upper cover (grey plus black part) after disconnecting the 2 pin fan cable on the right of the PCB. It should go off into a slot in the pcb to the right of the wheel. Else just be careful when taking the cover off.
Remove the grey parts from the old upper fan cover assembly and attach on the new. And do everything in reverse to put it back together.

Thanks very much.

Is this a translation of the instructions from Thrustmaster or do they also provide images?
 
A few days ago I was driving on GT5 and spun out. A loud high pitched whine started when the wheel started spinning and lasted about 20 seconds, slowly getting quieter. I used it for another couple minutes and everything seemed normal. It is a version 3 wheel and I updated it to firmware 38 the day before it occurred. Is this how the fan issue starts out does it sound like something different? Thanks for the help.
 
Thanks very much.

Is this a translation of the instructions from Thrustmaster or do they also provide images?

No it was not a translation. I just gave you the instructions as per memory from me doing the same thing yesterday with my old V2 wheel.

Jadran posted the manual above for you. 👍

edit: Thanks for giving him the manual, Jadran. Seems I forgot the top screw under the little plate in my instructions. Whoops!


A few days ago I was driving on GT5 and spun out. A loud high pitched whine started when the wheel started spinning and lasted about 20 seconds, slowly getting quieter. I used it for another couple minutes and everything seemed normal. It is a version 3 wheel and I updated it to firmware 38 the day before it occurred. Is this how the fan issue starts out does it sound like something different? Thanks for the help.

Sounds like something different. Not sure... here's some vids of noisy T500 fans.





 
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Thanks, I'll check those out when I get home.

Edit: Now that I watch those videos I think that I'm not good at describing the sound and that is what it sounded like. I will have to see if it happens again.
 
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Just to update you guys. I had to swap my T500 V2 today at the shop due to fan issues and the chrome crapping out on a paddle.

I got a new V4 and it feels much better. It's like it's finished more properly. The paddle click seems closer to that of the CSR and CSR Elite in terms of noise and I reckon feel (travel is still the same). The V2 had torsion springs, the V4 has compression springs. The compression springs on the V4's clutch/gas paddles are weaker then the torsion springs on the V2, in terms of pressure that is. However the brake is firmer and I choose now to not use the brake mod because I'll have more travel to fine tune braking without ABS.

All in all I am happy. ^_^

Really? Damn, I regret buying the wheel when it first cam out. I would of saved lots of money. The one I have now is also a V2. What else can say about the difference? When turning, does the wheel still make a fishing reel sound? Can you tell if they used a different fan? Is the force-feed-back any different? And lastly, can you hear any other unpleasant sounds coming from the inside while using the wheel?

About the fan, I always thought that it sucks air into the system, but after I took it apart and let the fan operate without the hood, it seems that the fan is actually blowing all the heat out of the system.
 
Really? Damn, I regret buying the wheel when it first cam out. I would of saved lots of money. The one I have now is also a V2. What else can say about the difference? When turning, does the wheel still make a fishing reel sound? Can you tell if they used a different fan? Is the force-feed-back any different? And lastly, can you hear any other unpleasant sounds coming from the inside while using the wheel?


I have a V. 5, the fan gets a little loud at times but that's all the sound I hear coming from the wheel.
 
Really? Damn, I regret buying the wheel when it first cam out. I would of saved lots of money. The one I have now is also a V2. What else can say about the difference? When turning, does the wheel still make a fishing reel sound? Can you tell if they used a different fan? Is the force-feed-back any different? And lastly, can you hear any other unpleasant sounds coming from the inside while using the wheel?

About the fan, I always thought that it sucks air into the system, but after I took it apart and let the fan operate without the hood, it seems that the fan is actually blowing all the heat out of the system.

The V4 doesn't do a physical lock to lock calibration (so no clacking noise caused by it hitting the stopper) and it does it slower. The same speed as a Fanatec and then stops in the center. Mine was calibrated perfectly out of the box (unlike my V2) and it ran firmware 35. The difference is really the pressure of the pedal pushing back against your foot that's different. I think these are at about 75 to 80% the strength of the torsion gas/clutch springs. They are closer to my old pedals from the G25 now in my opinion. The brake is almost as heavy as the V2 brake with torsion spring and brake mod in my opinion. I just noticed that it sometimes squeaks while braking though (like the brake mod spring grinding against the pedal, a metal on metal scratching sound. It went away over time (a few weeks of intense use)). Might have to use a bit of metal lube (i have some from the CSP tuning kit 👍) if it doesn't go away over time. However that's the only pedal that does it up till now.

The wheel still sounds like a fishing reel. I only notice it when I turn it off though, not when I do FFB tests in the driver menu or playing a game.
However I do notice that the motor used in the V4 seems better build. I don't feel the cogging as much as with the V2, also it feels like the FFB is getting across a bit more fluid. I need to put a disclaimer here though, as I have driven it for barely an hour I haven't been able to properly break in the motor or the rest of the wheel. So things can change over time.

The fan sounds like the same old I think, not sure though. When a fan runs well it doesn't make any odd sounds other then you hearing it displacing air. The fan is a tiny bit quieter though, but maybe that's because my old V2 replacement fan was already getting noisy again. Just like I said earlier, wheel needs breaking in so time will tell how well it lasts.

The force feedback apart from the more fluid (less cogging) motor I don't notice anything different though.

What I did notice was that the paddles were much nicer to use. A more prominent click like on a CSR Elite with the same travel as on the V2. However if my feelings are correct, the pedals seem to be made out of a thinner metal plate. About half a millimeter thinner. Or maybe the chrome layer is thinner? It feels nicer in my opinion and just as sturdy.
The wheel rim... much nicer in the hands. They used a different type of rubber. It is a bit thinner but lies nicer in the hands. Also the color is more black, the V2 was more grey ish and I noticed scratches soon on that one. This V4 rim feels a lot more scratch resistand. Also the finish seems better. While on the old wheel I still felt a seem from the rubber pressing, on this one I have to really feel for it to notice it at all. Also the red center marker is finished in a thicker and more proper layer of paint. On the V2 it was really thin (I could almost see the aluminum through it) and on the edges the aluminum was already showing.
Also for the entire wheel I didn't notice any weird noises. Not even a single one from the plastic casing when I grabbed it on different locations to align it with the holes on my rSeat.

The pedals are different too apart from the springs. The metal frame is more rounded all around. The powder coating is more properly done. Also I can't put my finger on it, but I think there are some dents in the aluminum of the pedal casing (where wires run through) at the position of the feet but also to make it a bit sturdier. Another thing is that the screw holes seem a bit different to me when I look down the pedals, however I think that's imagination. lol

All in all, even though the pressure of the gas/clutch springs is less, I think the V4 is more properly finished overall. The pedal pressure might differ but I quickly adjusted to it after a bit of time. I am very pleased with my exchange as it is definately a more solid feeling product. One last thing i'd like to note, and that is that with the V2 I had a bit of slack of 1mm in the wheel rim connecting to the hub, causing the wheel to give me a jolt with strong FFB effects because it shifted a bit. With this wheel I haven't noticed this at all.

Anyway... I hope this is enough info. I can't give you more until I have properly driven this for at least a good week, and this week has been busy as hell for me.
 
The V4 doesn't do a physical lock to lock calibration (so no clacking noise caused by it hitting the stopper) and it does it slower. The same speed as a Fanatec and then stops in the center. Mine was calibrated perfectly out of the box (unlike my V2) and it ran firmware 35. The difference is really the pressure of the pedal pushing back against your foot that's different. I think these are at about 75 to 80% the strength of the torsion gas/clutch springs. They are closer to my old pedals from the G25 now in my opinion. The brake is almost as heavy as the V2 brake with torsion spring and brake mod in my opinion. I just noticed that it sometimes squeaks while braking though (like the brake mod spring grinding against the pedal, a metal on metal scratching sound. It went away over time (a few weeks of intense use)). Might have to use a bit of metal lube (i have some from the CSP tuning kit 👍) if it doesn't go away over time. However that's the only pedal that does it up till now.

The wheel still sounds like a fishing reel. I only notice it when I turn it off though, not when I do FFB tests in the driver menu or playing a game.
However I do notice that the motor used in the V4 seems better build. I don't feel the cogging as much as with the V2, also it feels like the FFB is getting across a bit more fluid. I need to put a disclaimer here though, as I have driven it for barely an hour I haven't been able to properly break in the motor or the rest of the wheel. So things can change over time.

The fan sounds like the same old I think, not sure though. When a fan runs well it doesn't make any odd sounds other then you hearing it displacing air. The fan is a tiny bit quieter though, but maybe that's because my old V2 replacement fan was already getting noisy again. Just like I said earlier, wheel needs breaking in so time will tell how well it lasts.

The force feedback apart from the more fluid (less cogging) motor I don't notice anything different though.

What I did notice was that the paddles were much nicer to use. A more prominent click like on a CSR Elite with the same travel as on the V2. However if my feelings are correct, the pedals seem to be made out of a thinner metal plate. About half a millimeter thinner. Or maybe the chrome layer is thinner? It feels nicer in my opinion and just as sturdy.
The wheel rim... much nicer in the hands. They used a different type of rubber. It is a bit thinner but lies nicer in the hands. Also the color is more black, the V2 was more grey ish and I noticed scratches soon on that one. This V4 rim feels a lot more scratch resistand. Also the finish seems better. While on the old wheel I still felt a seem from the rubber pressing, on this one I have to really feel for it to notice it at all. Also the red center marker is finished in a thicker and more proper layer of paint. On the V2 it was really thin (I could almost see the aluminum through it) and on the edges the aluminum was already showing.
Also for the entire wheel I didn't notice any weird noises. Not even a single one from the plastic casing when I grabbed it on different locations to align it with the holes on my rSeat.

The pedals are different too apart from the springs. The metal frame is more rounded all around. The powder coating is more properly done. Also I can't put my finger on it, but I think there are some dents in the aluminum of the pedal casing (where wires run through) at the position of the feet but also to make it a bit sturdier. Another thing is that the screw holes seem a bit different to me when I look down the pedals, however I think that's imagination. lol

All in all, even though the pressure of the gas/clutch springs is less, I think the V4 is more properly finished overall. The pedal pressure might differ but I quickly adjusted to it after a bit of time. I am very pleased with my exchange as it is definately a more solid feeling product. One last thing i'd like to note, and that is that with the V2 I had a bit of slack of 1mm in the wheel rim connecting to the hub, causing the wheel to give me a jolt with strong FFB effects because it shifted a bit. With this wheel I haven't noticed this at all.

Anyway... I hope this is enough info. I can't give you more until I have properly driven this for at least a good week, and this week has been busy as hell for me.

Thanks for the detailed information.
I agree with you 100% on the finish of the V2 wheel rim finish. I can feel the line where the two pieces of rubber were joined together. The rubber gets scratches very easily. However, when my hands sweats, the rubber gets more sticky. The red coating on my center marker is very thin and if you were to scratch it, the red coating would come off. The V4 wheel you are describing is much more finished. It's a good thing that thrustmaster is improving the t500 rs over time, even though its not very fair for people who purchased it early.
 
Thanks for the detailed information.
I agree with you 100% on the finish of the V2 wheel rim finish. I can feel the line where the two pieces of rubber were joined together. The rubber gets scratches very easily. However, when my hands sweats, the rubber gets more sticky. The red coating on my center marker is very thin and if you were to scratch it, the red coating would come off. The V4 wheel you are describing is much more finished. It's a good thing that thrustmaster is improving the t500 rs over time, even though its not very fair for people who purchased it early.

Every manufacturer does it. Thomas (Fanatec) also does it with the CSP's for example. The later models are much more refined and finished.
The thing is however... Fanatec/Thomas doesn't lie about having made changes to their products. From Thrustmaster after I made a comment to them about the changes (since I had to reply with what I did (exchange at shop, or send it in to them) they told me that "the version numbers are only an indication for the pre-installed firmware version". Which is utter bull crap as we've clearly pointed out together here at GTP already.
 
UPS collected my base today and it's now on its way to France,

Hoping they just supply me with a new base. My current version was a V3 but I'd feel happier with a V5, just hope it doesn't take too long :(
 
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