The Thrustmaster T500RS Thread

  • Thread starter TomN
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Just ask WSP customer support for adapters. For my T500-WSP it cost 20€ for an adapter to hardmount Porsche shifter and Clubsport pedals. The wheelplate is already predrilled for Porsche wheels. So for 119€ you have a stand for T500 and Porsche wheel. Adapters are not listed on their webshop, you have to ask them. I got my answer within 1 day.

I also had both stands and the Rennsport had some minor play in the center post. Also the pedal stopper is not perfect for T500 pedals. So I like the WSP a little bit more. But they are almost equal.
 
blown540ci
Update .

Thrustmaster are sending me replacement springs . But no pdf with the email.
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I posted a pdf scan of the instructions in this thread already:

WRP001
Speak of the devil... the kit arrived just now. 7+ pages of instructions... Yuck, but at least they have photos... It's not really that complicated, but I'm not a mechanical guy and I don't want to mess it up. The kit has all the parts, but I have to go out and get some grease to apply to the new springs and shaft.

The instructions say 30 minutes, but I'm sure it won't be that quick for me. :lol:

Here's a pdf scan I made of the instructions.
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Ooops, looks like MediaFire deleted that file already. I'll have to see if I can relocate it on my PC.

Here you go: T500RS_ReplacePedalSprings.pdf

Note: This is for a V1 pedal set.
 
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So my right paddle shifter just went out doesn't input anymore and i made i video already for it i hope thrustmaster's cs will be good to me.

edit: I just emailed thrustmaster i hope things go smoothly.
 
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OwensRacing
Maybe best to make some extensions that mount to the current paddles. The hinged part is casted and can't be replicated economically. The material would large and require a load of machining. So truly the economical way would be add on extensions.

I'll look into that. Possible something we cut and weld to extend. Then polish back up or have poweder coated. Now did they use a real steal or is it like Integy that makes RC parts.

We had some parts come in that were broken and the guy assumed they was aluminum. The package said Alloy. Well we attempted to weld them. They acted like pot-metal. That stuff melts and won't take material. It's basically crap. So anyway the Integy stuff. The guy who owned these was my cousin and luckly he works for Alcoa. He take the parts in to their lab and has them check them for what type of alloy. He calls me and says. Guess why those won't weld. Proceeds to tell me they are garabage. Literally scrap metals melted and casted. They have no alloy property. They are nothing. Junk. LoL

So hopefully Thrustmaster didn't go there on us. Now to find a spare set of paddles to cut on. Actually I'd grind the back a lil and make a test weld to ensure they did indeed weld properly. If so then simple and cheap to extend.
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I had a feeling when I first got inside and looked at the paddles it might not be as easy to recreate. The extensions are a good idea and will look great powder coated. I plan on selling mine in a few months as I'm getting a csw. So I'll have to keep mine stock, bummer. Can't wait to see how yours turn out though!
 
CJDA9
So my right paddle shifter just went out doesn't input anymore and i made i video already for it i hope thrustmaster's cs will be good to me.

edit: I just emailed thrustmaster i hope things go smoothly.
Click to expand...

I don't think you need video for that. The CS will probably just ask you to run the diagnostic joy.ppl in Windows. Just tell them it's the R1 (the right paddle shifter) and that you've read that there are other people who have had the same problem. What they'll do is ask you to provide the Serial Number and perhaps your original purchase invoice (all they need is the S/N really).

What'll happen is that they will send you a new shifter attachment- it's a single piece unit with the left and right shifter (and the microswitches). It's an easy enough installation. Also depending on where you are, you might have to pay the import duty (via the shipper). That will be reimbursed by TM.
 
Carson79
I had a feeling when I first got inside and looked at the paddles it might not be as easy to recreate. The extensions are a good idea and will look great powder coated. I plan on selling mine in a few months as I'm getting a csw. So I'll have to keep mine stock, bummer. Can't wait to see how yours turn out though!
Click to expand...

Oh the CSW. Yes. I'll be making that move most likely too. Rig 4 to he built. LoL may actually switch seats if I can locate what I want.
 
CJDA9
So my right paddle shifter just went out doesn't input anymore and i made i video already for it i hope thrustmaster's cs will be good to me.

edit: I just emailed thrustmaster i hope things go smoothly.
Click to expand...

I'm on my third set of paddles after about 13 months of use. 👎

After TM agrees to send you a replacement set (they are easy to change) you can try the following. It got me by for a month the first time while I was dealing with customer support -- it can take a while for them to ship to you depending on your luck. I got my replacement paddles within a week after going through a few days of Q&A with them, but a friend waited almost 4 weeks (and we are in the same region).

Take the small screws off the "cover" over the paddles (behind the wheel) which will increase the "travel" for the paddles. That should engage the faulty electronic switch and for me got it to work properly for a while. You don't have to remove the cover, just take the screws off and pop it off (there is a small tab on the top which will release it). This allowed me to use the paddles for a few weeks, but ultimately it totally destroyed the electronic switch -- which is faulty anyway and replaced with the new paddle module anyway so it was worth it.

I don't have access to my wheel for the moment (away for a couple weeks for travel) but maybe someone else can explain better if you want to try it as a bridge to continue playing until the new module arrives.
 
Thanks for the feedback guys, so i woke up today and checked my pro filer for the t500 again and now my right paddle shifter is inputting as normal. Although i did also mention in the email about another problem.

My left hard mount is acting up (has been for about a month now) when i go to tighten the bolt it just keeps turning and wont stay tight. anyone have any experience with this?
 
WRP001
I'm on my third set of paddles after about 13 months of use. 👎
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My replacement paddle shifter- the same left paddle- is starting to randomly shut itself off after a few shifts. It's the same problem as before. Luckily I have the TH8RS and the F1 rim (with its own paddle shifter).

I'm thinking the problem isn't the paddle shift or the micro-switch but the circuit board itself. The whole CS (regardless of whom I'm dealing with) is a big hassle to me and the reason why the G25, in the context of my own experience, is such a great product.

I would love to just sell the whole thing and get the CSW but I doubt it will be hassle free. At this point, instead of dropping another $1K, I'm thinking of just saving another $2K and go with Leo Bodnar's Servo-drive FF motor/wheel. It's mostly DIY and I have complete control for things outside of the motor and the FF controller. Someone else on Race Department built this using an ECCI 7000 but this would work just as well with a Servo Motor:

DSC_0065.jpg


At this point I've only spent close to $1000 on a G25 and a T500RS. I 'd much rather not be the guy who ended up spending over $5K on lesser product when he could get, for the same amount or less, the one product that will do the job infinitely better.

Sorry for being completely OT but those unfamiliar with Bodnar's FF wheel (or motor), here's one in action (btw, it has 7 x the FFB of a G25 and like G25 and unlike the Fanatec of TM, it's direct drive as oppose to belt driven):

 
Guys is there anything special to do before logging into ps3 gt5? My t500 starts ok,calibrates auto when ps3 starts but in gt5login it gets crazy and doesnt stop moving...any help?
 
Anyone using the T500 with a GT Omega cockpit? Just curious really as to the height of the L piece with regards to the cross bar section on the GT Omega. GT Omega website shows pics of it with good clearance but I was curious to know if anyone else uses it.
 
NoneEvo
Managed to work fine after firmware :D thx!!

Btw what are best settings for Gt5? i like my FFB leveled to 3
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For league races under 5. I'm at 3.

For fun and really feel why you paid so much 10.


I say this for it's smoother to exit turns. You can move the wheel back center slower with little if any see saw from the FFB motors. This helps traction and tire wear. As well at a lower setting I am not nearly gripping so tight. Leaves me to have a finger tip feel of the wheel. So really get connected and not be fighting FFB see sawing effects.

This is my opinion and something told to me by a very very fast SIM racer. I indeed improved and have since then. Went almost a year using 10. Manly couldn't subject myself to anything less. That is weakness. Then that fast guy had told me to use lower. Took his advice as I was really wanting speed. Felt like I leveled out till I did this. Tried 5 then settled in at 3.


Good Luck. In the end it's about having a good time. So run what is you enjoy the most.
 
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Ok i am kind of panicking right now i cant find my invoice or proof of purchase although i didn't buy it. It was a gift from my mom and dad, What should i do?

Edit: I am very concerned and nervous about an issue that isn’t with my wheel but with my mother and father. The wheel was a late Christmas present for me from them, they bought it from best buy online I found out tonight. The problem is that there email address no longer works so they can’t log into bestbuy online to print out an invoice, they also did not keep the receipt. So as you can see I am very concerned that this is a problem and I won’t be able to get my wheel fixed.
 
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OwensRacing
Oh the CSW. Yes. I'll be making that move most likely too. Rig 4 to he built. LoL may actually switch seats if I can locate what I want.
Click to expand...
I've a nice sparco seat picked out, I was going to pay for with the sale of the T500. But I really am getting interested in PC sim racing, and all the gadgets that go with it! lol Costly building a good gaming PC though
 
Carson79
But I really am getting interested in PC sim racing, and all the gadgets that go with it! lol Costly building a good gaming PC though
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PC racing is incredible, if I was to start over I would make the jump straight to iRacing. The Sim Bin titles are fun and pCARS looks good in a arcadish way. Some people don't like iRacings business model, like paying monthly, quarterly or yearly. I look for the deals, regular $99 US per year but "Black Friday" they offer it for $49. You can top up your account as much as you prefer. I have about 18 months worth ATM.

As far as PC's go I think you are on the right track by acknowledging the price. Some people don't have the foresight and go out and spend a couple grand on a store bought PC and then find out down the road they can't upgrade there PC.

There is good advice found at the iRacing forum, my biggest advice is go for triple screens right from the start and get a custom built PC, either build it yourself or get a reputable shop to build one for you. Most folks find this out after they have been at iRacing for a while. I think this is the best upgrade one can do to improve their racecraft.
 
Guys i want to change my paddle shifter in my t500rs,is there a perfect way or video that explains how to do this in perfect english? Thank you
 
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Carson79
I've a nice sparco seat picked out, I was going to pay for with the sale of the T500. But I really am getting interested in PC sim racing, and all the gadgets that go with it! lol Costly building a good gaming PC though
Click to expand...

You and I seem to be at similar stages in SIM racing. I too have been eyeing PC and all the paraphernalia that can be had. Looking so in depth and well enjoyable. ;)


I've been thinking a Reacaro from a factory car. Ex. - Evo. However the seat I use now is a Viper inspired seat from a SRT4. It is pretty darn comfortable and has that "sport" or "race" look. Not nearly as cool as my Evo's seats though. IC black suede upgrade in my VIII.
 
OwensRacing
You and I seem to be at similar stages in SIM racing. I too have been eyeing PC and all the paraphernalia that can be had. Looking so in depth and well enjoyable. ;)

I've been thinking a Reacaro from a factory car. Ex. - Evo. However the seat I use now is a Viper inspired seat from a SRT4. It is pretty darn comfortable and has that "sport" or "race" look. Not nearly as cool as my Evo's seats though. IC black suede upgrade in my VIII.
Click to expand...

I spoke to you a few months back when you put up pictures of your trips, PS3's in their boxes etc. And convinced me about doing the same, we were talking about 3D verses trips lol I got my tactile sorted first and then triple 32". Funny I didn't think that much of PC gaming back then, but the more I see of it and the gadgets the more I like it. P Cars looks good and I'd be interested to try Iracing as everyone that's into it raves about it.
I like the sound of that black suede seat
 
left888
PC racing is incredible, if I was to start over I would make the jump straight to iRacing. The Sim Bin titles are fun and pCARS looks good in a arcadish way. Some people don't like iRacings business model, like paying monthly, quarterly or yearly. I look for the deals, regular $99 US per year but "Black Friday" they offer it for $49. You can top up your account as much as you prefer. I have about 18 months worth ATM.

As far as PC's go I think you are on the right track by acknowledging the price. Some people don't have the foresight and go out and spend a couple grand on a store bought PC and then find out down the road they can't upgrade there PC.

There is good advice found at the iRacing forum, my biggest advice is go for triple screens right from the start and get a custom built PC, either build it yourself or get a reputable shop to build one for you. Most folks find this out after they have been at iRacing for a while. I think this is the best upgrade one can do to improve their racecraft.
Click to expand...

Yeah I agree with you on doing your homework lol I'll probably have months of it done come Building time. I've triple screens and 7.1 tactile surround sound so its important to me to get the best out of these when it come's to the PC build. I've been busy looking at pre built and custom builds lately and knew the right path would be a custom built PC.....And $3500-$4000 is a rough est atm. P Cars looks good to me as I love beautiful graphics and I'm interested in Iracing.
 
NoneEvo
bump
Click to expand...

Are looking to repair. I think it was you that had the paddle set sent to them.

Truly the wheel is pretty simple once you get into it. However for the first time. It's nice seeing it done and explained. ;)
 
OwensRacing
Are looking to repair. I think it was you that had the paddle set sent to them.

Truly the wheel is pretty simple once you get into it. However for the first time. It's nice seeing it done and explained. ;)
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my wheel is new,just want to know how its done.
 
Carson79
the right path would be a custom built PC.....And $3500-$4000 is a rough est atm. P Cars looks good to me as I love beautiful graphics and I'm interested in Iracing.
Click to expand...

Wait, don't know if I'm reading you right here... You do not need a $3500 build for iRacing! Not even half of that! My build costed me arround $600 and I run with every setting maxed out with 150+ FPS with no issues whatsoever! For a triple screen setup all I'd change is my video card and I can pretty much find a pretty good one for the same money I paid for my current one.
 
Carson79
Yeah I agree with you on doing your homework lol I'll probably have months of it done come Building time. I've triple screens and 7.1 tactile surround sound so its important to me to get the best out of these when it come's to the PC build. I've been busy looking at pre built and custom builds lately and knew the right path would be a custom built PC.....And $3500-$4000 is a rough est atm. P Cars looks good to me as I love beautiful graphics and I'm interested in Iracing.
Click to expand...

To be honest pCARS looks good but it is no where near iRacing. The fastest racers in the world are at iRacing for a reason. pCARS does look nice but it has a long way to go if it wants to be close to iRacing.

The truth of the matter is pCARS wants to appease everyone, consoles and PC where iRacing only wants the best and that is only offered on a PC. Once your rig is finished and your PC is ready, try one of the 3 month deals. If you are serious about racing I will guarantee you will love iRacing.

Some people think iRacers are Elitist and a snotty bunch, however that is the farthest from the truth. The last time I raced on my PlayStation was with GT5 and I had to quit, there were 30 people swearing and shouting and screaming and running other cars off the track. I was in a race a couple weeks ago in iRacing and there were 44 cars in my split. In 2 hours I think I heard 4 or 5 people apologize for accidental bumps. It is mostly pure racing, so much fun. It is not perfect, problems arise now and then but they work on this sim continually. I am really looking forward to seeing your finished rig and PC.


Jav
Wait, don't know if I'm reading you right here... You do not need a $3500 build for iRacing! Not even half of that! My build costed me arround $600 and I run with every setting maxed out with 150+ FPS with no issues whatsoever! For a triple screen setup all I'd change is my video card and I can pretty much find a pretty good one for the same money I paid for my current one.
Click to expand...

If you can find parts and build a high end PC yourself I would think it would run around $1000-$1500 but as Jav mentioned he built his for $600 which I have no doubts but I would think it is more a mid ranged PC which really is all you need for iRacing less triple screens.
 
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