The Thrustmaster T500RS Thread

  • Thread starter TomN
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I can only compare T500 pedals to the CSP V1* and I personally find, that with the so called "realistic brake mod" you come very close to how the brake-pedal of the CSP feels.

At least I have/had no problem to switch between both pedal sets every now and then.

* (EDIT: brake pedal set up to the shorter travel)
 
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oqvist,

I'm sending your bushings and plate out this morning, so you will be able to test this for yourself. However, I have a set of CSPv2 at home that I am using for "stuff" and the bushings feel very similar. The realistic brake mod on the T500 pedals does not feel very similar. Most of this is due to both travel and the lack of resistance at the start of travel.

You still get quite a bit of travel with the bushing mod I posted, at least as much as with the CSP's...

Mahnegold,

Sorry to contradict what you've stated about the realistic brake mod. Maybe I installed mine wrong? :) It just didn't have enough resistance at the beginning of travel for me. The end of travel did feel very similar to the CSP sets though.
 
mrbasher
oqvist,

I'm sending your bushings and plate out this morning, so you will be able to test this for yourself. However, I have a set of CSPv2 at home that I am using for "stuff" and the bushings feel very similar. The realistic brake mod on the T500 pedals does not feel very similar. Most of this is due to both travel and the lack of resistance at the start of travel.

You still get quite a bit of travel with the bushing mod I posted, at least as much as with the CSP's...

Mahnegold,

Sorry to contradict what you've stated about the realistic brake mod. Maybe I installed mine wrong? :) It just didn't have enough resistance at the beginning of travel for me. The end of travel did feel very similar to the CSP sets though.
Click to expand...

No problem mrbasher,

I agree that the T500-brake has very little resistance at the beginning. CSP offers more at that point, as it has bigger springs. I was referring more to the point, where the "mod" comes into play. I also edited my above post, to clarify my CSP-setup.
 
mrbasher
oqvist,

I'm sending your bushings and plate out this morning, so you will be able to test this for yourself. However, I have a set of CSPv2 at home that I am using for "stuff" and the bushings feel very similar. The realistic brake mod on the T500 pedals does not feel very similar. Most of this is due to both travel and the lack of resistance at the start of travel.

You still get quite a bit of travel with the bushing mod I posted, at least as much as with the CSP's...

Mahnegold,

Sorry to contradict what you've stated about the realistic brake mod. Maybe I installed mine wrong? :) It just didn't have enough resistance at the beginning of travel for me. The end of travel did feel very similar to the CSP sets though.
Click to expand...


Thanks a lot look forward to trying it out :)
 
Got my DSD adapter today. Finally after a month I can try out a regular wheel on it.

Todays industrial country issue though. I just did an one hour race at nordschleife and F3 in GSC2012. If I want to showcase my T500RS with F1 wheel this is it really together with possibly some rFactor 2 cars. Though the visuals are appaling on rFactor 2.

But gonna wait 30-45 minutes for the fan to shut down so I can start installing the new wheel grrrrrrr.
 
What Reiza did with GSC and the FFB is amazing- it's only rF1!!!! But the FFB is almost as good as in rF2. But really it's rF2 that makes this t500 come alive. It's amazing
 
Mahnegold
No problem mrbasher,

I agree that the T500-brake has very little resistance at the beginning. CSP offers more at that point, as it has bigger springs. I was referring more to the point, where the "mod" comes into play. I also edited my above post, to clarify my CSP-setup.
Click to expand...

please buy some bushings. I had realistic brake mod and the bushing mode is far better. Try to buy some softer ones. Mine is 82 and it is bit stiff. But I am more consistent in braking then ever.

Thanks again MrBasher
 
guybo
What Reiza did with GSC and the FFB is amazing- it's only rF1!!!! But the FFB is almost as good as in rF2. But really it's rF2 that makes this t500 come alive. It's amazing
Click to expand...

It´s based on the ISI engine used for rFactor yes. I am sure they did their own coding.

As I just got the adapter plate I finally got to try out my 320 mm RMD Malaga wheel. I wasn´t prepared for how different it makes everything! At first it was like I lost all force feedback driving F3 at green hell. I have gone up to max from 80 % ffb but it still feels like there is much less of it. Going over rumble strips is not that adventurous as on the F1 wheel where it feel softened quite a bit and not as quick and I can´t as easilly feel the tires.

You readjust and feel more and more as you forget the old ffb so is probably enough. Though I feel I lost a bit of contrast. Maybe the suede also dampens things a bit compared to the hard rubber except I am in a stronger position of course. It´s a bit like running no power steering vs powersteering.

However the plus side of things is that it feels considerably smoother. The notchy feeling is not as apparent and you feel more in control when the ffb never can´t over power you. The G27 trick that make it so easy going fast as there is hardly anything to fight what you want to do. Tried the stock car in iRacing where I really was disturbed by the notchy feel. Still there of course but not at all to the same level. And of course it feel more natural running with an oversized round wheel then an F1 type too. Just this make a bit difference.

The RMD feels a bit extra ridiculous on the F3. The wheel is so big it´s much more in my peripheral vision and the cockpits on my mere 24" doesn´t quite match. Would have to run really low fov.

But the feel of precision meant I felt just as comfortable with it if not more particularly in the full throttle high speed turns where you just can´t mess up the entry. Felt there was no learning curve or adjustment period even though I run nothing but the F1 wheel for weeks. Of course run round wheels for as long as I remember but... I am not saying that I ran several laps through green hell unscaved or anything but the odds felt at least as good.

Big contrast between the F1 wheel and this. Both with their pros and cons. F1 wheel is probably better showing off the true nature of the ffb of different titles but that won´t necessary mean it feel better or more realistic overall. A bit more robotic in some titles like iRacing though it feels truly great in rFactor 2 and GSC2012 primarily.

Seriously I think all T500RS owners should budget for a wheel of both types. I know there is cross overs that do a bit of both like those D shaped wheels of smaller diameters but these are about as different in feel like the G27 or Fanatec Turbo S. I won´t say T500RS vs G27 because the RMD Malaga wheel doesn´t make the F1 integral wheel to feel like a toy or vice versa.
Just different will be hugely fun discover how and when to use what. Complement eachother really well though perhaps 300 mm would be more optimal towards what the T500RS motor is capable of?
 
I changed to the slow calibration mode a couple weeks ago and it seems to have for the most part corrected the 'calibrating off center to the left' issue. It has occurred one time since and that was when quitting the game. The next time I started up it calibrated correctly. It would never calibrating correctly once off center before the slow calibration mode.
 
I was wondering if anybody was using the RS EVO V3 with their T500. I've heard conflicting reports on it's ability in supporting the hefty wheel. InsideSimRacing say it's very sturdy but Alan from TeamVVV mentioned he had problems when using the T500 and had to readjust the wheels positioning ever so often.
 
Approaching the end of my 2 year warranty is like approaching (more like being pushed to) a cliff with no visible bottom. I had no worries, doubt, or anxiety when my G25's warranty expired.
 
Hello, my first post on the forum 👍

The trouble is I am furious!!!! My 4 hour old T500 RS has packed up!!

It now just cuts power after about 1 min of racing and will only come back on if I turn it off and back on at the wall! I turned it off for about 20 mins to let it cool down in case it was heat releated and still the same.

Has any one else had this problem? Any tips or should I just get it exchanged? I can't believe how poor this is. Literally just hours after opening it.

Mine is V2 and I updated the firmware to the latest (40).
I guess there goes my day of using it tomorrow and then phoning thrust masters monday to tear them a new one. So disappointed. Is this common?

Thanks
 
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Hi,

it is not common and you should contact Thrustmaster and ask for advise. I hope that they can help you out quickly.
 
Thanks, I just played for a good 20-30 mins and it was fine then it just cut out for a second and then came back on. Something isn't right it seems.

On another matter, perhaps someone could help me also? Sorry if this is a noob question!

I wanted to fit the stiffer spring (realistice brake mod) to the pedals, fitted it and checked online that I had installed it correctly. However GT5 only ever registers 40-50% with the spring installed as it doesn't allow the brake pedal as much movement now as the compressed spring takes up extra space.

Am I missing something here? I've tried and tried but can't get GT5 to register 100% brake application as the brake pedal no longer has the full range of movement. I tried the 'even stiffer' braking mod with some old skateboard bushings I had and I have the same problem there.

I bet I'm doing something wrong?
 
It is important that you do the installation of the mod, when PS3 is switched off. Once you installed the mod, switch on the PS3, start GT5 and calibrate the pedals (during loading screen) by pressing all three pedals to maximum.

It might be the case, that if you installed the mod but used the pedals before. So they have already been calibrated, and with the "realistic brake mod" you lose travel. So you end up with only 60 or 70% of brake.
 
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Thanks. How does GT5 know you have reached maximum brake travel though when calibrating as opposed to just being lazy and not pressing the brake as far as it can go?

When you say loading screen, do you mean when GT5 is booting, or when you have selected GT mode or when a track is loading or even the few seconds where the car is loaded and you are on the track and you get the 3,2,1?

Sorry, I have googled and couldn't find a clear answer.

Typically I've just packed up the kit for the night, I'll have another go with it tomorrow.

:)
 
For calibration, every kind of loading screen is fine. It's just to avoid any menu inputs, as the gas pedal would act as a "X" in any of the menus.

When starting GT5, the game will determine (calibrate) maximum pedal travel, once you hit the pedal for the first time. Thats why you calibrate each time, you start GT5.

Sorry, I can't explain much better, since I am not English native speaker...
 
Curiosity got the better of me and i had another go starting with the ps3 off and got it working. Thanks for the help. Now just to work out why the wheel dies, ill see if it fairs better tomorrow.

Damn noobs eh ;)
 
zzkamikazezz
Curiosity got the better of me and i had another go starting with the ps3 off and got it working. Thanks for the help. Now just to work out why the wheel dies, ill see if it fairs better tomorrow.

Damn noobs eh ;)
Click to expand...

Check the power cable where it plugs into the power supply box (transformer)
I was having the same problem , turned out the plug was not properly connected to the box , even though it looked ok.
 
spinner
Check the power cable where it plugs into the power supply box (transformer)
I was having the same problem , turned out the plug was not properly connected to the box , even though it looked ok.
Click to expand...

Thanks, since setting up today its all been fine thankfully, perhaps it was a poor connection when first setting it up like you say!

I fitted a 73a skateboard bush as per the 'even stiffer brake' mod thread and am really enjoying the wheel, times have been tumbling and are way more consistent compared to the damn controller :cool:
 
I have a question that has been bugging me, hence my avatar :P.

No seriously. I'm not asking for other to say what wheel to get, I'll make that decision on my own but I'd like to get some opinions so I can make that decision a lot easier.

I'm not sure yet if I'm going to start gaming again but if I do, I definitely need a, at least, 900° wheel and not 180° - 360° like the SRW S1 I have right now.

I have been thinking about the G27 and the T500RS. I use to have the G27, which I sold in 2011. The way the G27 works with its gear driven steering wheel, the FFB was always bugging me, so I always turned down the FFB as much a possible until the point that I still felt FFB but it was so annoying anymore.

I have never seen a T500 in real live let alone try one. The FFB and belt driven part is far superior than that of the G27 (that's what I read). But as I always turn down the FFB of the G27 and I probably will also if I should have a T500, I wonder if it is worth paying the extra money for the T500?
Or are there more superior features the T500 has that makes it worth the extra money over the G27 (besides the FFB being delivered)?
 
kikie
I have a question that has been bugging me, hence my avatar :P.

No seriously. I'm not asking for other to say what wheel to get, I'll make that decision on my own but I'd like to get some opinions so I can make that decision a lot easier.

I'm not sure yet if I'm going to start gaming again but if I do, I definitely need a, at least, 900° wheel and not 180° - 360° like the SRW S1 I have right now.

I have been thinking about the G27 and the T500RS. I use to have the G27, which I sold in 2011. The way the G27 works with its gear driven steering wheel, the FFB was always bugging me, so I always turned down the FFB as much a possible until the point that I still felt FFB but it was so annoying anymore.

I have never seen a T500 in real live let alone try one. The FFB and belt driven part is far superior than that of the G27 (that's what I read). But as I always turn down the FFB of the G27 and I probably will also if I should have a T500, I wonder if it is worth paying the extra money for the T500?
Or are there more superior features the T500 has that makes it worth the extra money over the G27 (besides the FFB being delivered)?
Click to expand...

The T500 is taking advantage of software the Logitech wheels are incapable of using. The wheel is more precise. It's advisable to turn FFB down anyway. As pointed out by another member who is very active in league racing, too much FFB can cause over steer. I turned down my FFB from 7 to 3 and it made a difference. Feedback details are still present. Transitioning from snow to ice can be felt. Loss of grip can be felt. At this price point, the T500 is the best wheel for PS3 users. The new Fanatec wheels (CSW) are looking incredible. But, unless things have changed, Fanatec wheels are still using the Logitech drivers via emulation for GT5. Until Fanatec is fully supported by PD, GT games will recognize the wheel as a Logitech wheel.

What will hold me back from buying another Thrustmaster wheel is reliability. If TM can increase the build quality by using parts meant to be used 5 days a week for 5 hours or more a day, I'd gladly buy another Thrustmaster product.

I was never nervous about my G25's warranty expiring. I'm in the last month of my T500's, 2 years was not enough considering some of the cheap parts they used. Failure is designed into cheap parts. Charging $600 for the T500rs with shabby parts (fan, torsion springs) took a lot of gonads.

So, when the T500 is working properly, it's a GREAT wheel. The workmanship in the new Fanatec wheel can't be beat. Plus, Thomas from Fanatec is a regular on this forum.
 
Thanks Dave


I forgot to mention that it's only for pc gaming. I don't own a PS3 (also sold in 2011).

So besides the superior FFB, no deadzone and a little more precision, the T500 is not better than the G27?

Not concidering the reliability of the wheels, are the two high end Fanatec wheels better than the T500, on pc, not PS3?


Also a problem I'm struggling with is the fact that the TH8RS is a stand alone device. The G27 is a full package.
If I want to play a game that recognizes only one controller and you can configure a shifter in this game, it's not possible to use the shifter in this game because you can use only one controller.

Is there a solution, software or hardware, that makes it possible to use the T500 and the TH8RS at the same time in a game that recognizes only one controller? I've been looking at PPjoy and vjoy.
 
You can´t really compare the two the T500RS just do everything better. Console compability is where G27 can be considered better otherwise it´s not even an issue of personal preferences. Good that it has a H-shifter by default but I never enjoyed using that one though it´s an improvement over the G25.

You can get the T500RS just as easy going with the right rim on it and lowering the ffb strength accordingly or you can get the ffb more direct, raw and clean with the F1 wheel for example.

I agree about looks on the CSW but the failure rates don´t seem to be better. I am not sure I would feel more confident with that one. You never know how things will hold up. These consumer wheels are all made with banking in mind after all. T500RS has a beefier ffb motor for example and there isn´t many reports about people burning that one. Based on my research there has been reports on buttons on the F1 wheel that wear out both the shifter switches and push buttons. Springs but that is perhaps fixed in newer revisions of T500RS that use torsion springs? That cheap fan but little reports of burned ffb motors or belts.

G27 is not known to last forever either though so I suppose we need non force feedback wheels to get 100 % reliable :)

As for shifter thankfully it has been a long time since I ran an arcade game that only supported one controller on PC. Some years ago that was quite common. Nowadays it appear most if not all do. Console is another story I am sure though. TH8RS double as both sequential and H-shifter so I would say the T500RS is more complete then. Particularly since you can get both F1 and GT style rims or whatever on it easilly :)

But you are free to use any usb shifter of course for both these wheels. G27 don´t have many buttons on wheel so you may want to use it as a button box if nothing else.
 
Also thanks


So, if I can get myself over the fact that the T500 is more expensive and I'm willing to spend that kind of money on a toy (that's what it basically is), I'll go with the T500.
 
I think so. If I include my second rim and the TH8 RS shifter I have payed about double for it compared to my G27. I still feel it gives me more bang for buck but YMMV as always. Immersion is so much better though I don´t dare to suggest I drive any better :)
 
kikie
Also thanks

So, if I can get myself over the fact that the T500 is more expensive and I'm willing to spend that kind of money on a toy (that's what it basically is), I'll go with the T500.
Click to expand...

Get the T500!! You will not regret it.........
 
If i had to do it all over again, i would NOT buy t500rs! Low quality build:( ive had my t500rs for a month now! V5 and the fan makes loud noises when it comes on, but noise goes away after a min or two, buttons on f1 wheel are cheap, i have to press harder to get them to work sometimes, paddle shifter button on f1 wheel is causing missed shifts, sometimes it doesnt work at all unless i pull paddle real hard then it shifts:( and the pedals are ok but not great. Imo. G27 is the best wheel for the $$$
 

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