The Thrustmaster T500RS Thread

[mrbasher]

Lol, you'd think not, but I've known guys who could do it! (Get chatter on things you'd think would be impossible). Thanks for the explanation. I usually use a 'broad-nosing' tool when machining plastics. Saves a lot of time...you need to run a feedrate that is slightly less than the width of the nose of the tool you're using. I normally use a custom ground HSS tool with about a 1/4" flat lapped to a mirror knife edge with a chip breaker/curler and run about 3/16" feed per rev. The nice thing about this approach is you can run lower speeds to keep temp down (so you don't need to worry about thermal dimensional stability) and still get done quick as well as keeping tool life up. I usually use a shop-vac to suck up the chip as it cuts, since they come off as a continuous string. If you are running CNC you can also program quick dwells to break the chips as you go. Sorry if this is TMI!

No man, it's good info. I'm pretty new to the whole process and have tons to learn. However, I'm realizing now, that you are talking about a broad nose tool and custom ground... You thought I did this on my lathe, which explains why you are wondering WTF!?!? I would be too. It was on my 3 axis CNC machine, not my lathe. My lathe is full manual and if it was producing something even close to that kind of face I'd melt it down lol

So those swirls you see are from the little tiny 1/4" bit making circles round and round as it cut out the pocket. I had to cut this from a 1" thick piece of HDPE because that's all I had around.

 

[eKretz]

Oops! Sorry, iPhone screen is sub-par for photo viewing! You took the long way 'round, haha. But we do what we've gotta do sometimes!

 

[mrbasher]

You took the long way 'round, haha.

I see what you did there... ha

For me, it was the most direct route at the time given what I had available. I think the whole process took me about 20 minutes including cut time. My CNC machine was running at 190 in/min for this

 

[Ferrari458Italia]

So can someone explain to me what someone is talking about when they say "so and so wheel has terrible dead zones?" or "at 100% you get terrible dead zones"?
What is dead zones and normally where does it occur in the wheel, like at which rotation??
might be a silly question, but I never understood what someone meant by it.. all I know is that dead zones = bad haha

 

[Dean]

Isn't a dead zone, a "place", when turning, where there's no steering? Honestly, I'm not sure.


Anyway, this should explain it :

"The dead zone is an area in the middle where the wheel is considered to be not turning at all.

If there was no dead zone, you would have to return the wheel to the EXACT centre to stop your car from turning to either size; a dead zone lets you return it to close to the middle. If the dead zone is too large, then you have to turn the wheel a lot before your car actually starts to turn."

 

[JohnBodin]

So can someone explain to me what someone is talking about when they say "so and so wheel has terrible dead zones?" or "at 100% you get terrible dead zones"?
What is dead zones and normally where does it occur in the wheel, like at which rotation??
might be a silly question, but I never understood what someone meant by it.. all I know is that dead zones = bad haha

Dead zone usually refers to a small range where a wheel is less responsive or non-responsive at or around its center point. Some manufacturers have in the past factored-in some dead zone around center to make it easier to keep a car from weaving or drifting when the wheel appears to be centered but actually may be just slightly off-center.

If a wheel is very responsive as you move it just slightly off-center, then it probably has a very small dead zone.

If you have to move a wheel 5 - 10 degrees off-center in either direction before you begin to see some steering effect, then it has a fairly wide (10 degree to 20 degree) dead zone, for example.

 

[Ferrari458Italia]

Isn't a dead zone, a "place", when turning, where there's no steering? Honestly, I'm not sure.


Anyway, this should explain it :

Gotcha
So is this why my old Logitech G25 when I let go off the wheel it would keep bouncing left and right?? because it had terrible dead zones??
while my T500 if I let go of the wheel it doesn't bounce at all.

last night I was trying to gold all of my License tests and I got the to the Mini Cooper one on the Top Gear track where you have to swerve between the cones and I noticed just how precise (dead zone free, I guess) the T500 is.. I was very amazed lol

Dead zone usually refers to a small range where a wheel is less responsive or non-responsive at or around its center point. Some manufacturers have in the past factored-in some dead zone around center to make it easier to keep a car from weaving or drifting when the wheel appears to be centered but actually may be just slightly off-center.

If a wheel is very responsive as you move it just slightly off-center, then it probably has a very small dead zone.

If you have to move a wheel 5 - 10 degrees off-center in either direction before you begin to see some steering effect, then it has a fairly wide (10 degree to 20 degree) dead zone, for example.

I was kind of worried last night when I tipped my T500's wheel a tiny bit (like an inch) to the left and right and I didn't see my car move. I was worried that I might have a faulty/dead zone wheel, but I guess it makes sense having a little bit of dead zone in the center so one little touch wouldn't make your car weave and drift.. it would be hella annoying if it was THAT precise haha

 

[mrbasher]

I don't know what exactly was done on the T500 to compensate for that. It doesn't have a deadzone in the center and it doesn't seem slower in GT5 and yet, you can let go of the wheel at speed, going straight and it just tracks. No wobble or anything. That was one of the first things I noticed when using it. I had to dial in a bit of deadzone on my Fanatec PWTS to prevent this. It's not a huge deal, but it's nice not to have to fight it.

 

[OwensRacing]

I see what you did there... ha

For me, it was the most direct route at the time given what I had available. I think the whole process took me about 20 minutes including cut time. My CNC machine was running at 190 in/min for this

What machine you running?

Ran some plastics and prefer 2 and 3 flute tools. Pour the speed to it. LoL

Little of topic but not really considering we all have interest in making parts for the T500. Here is my recent project. Throttle handle for a high end pulling truck. Machined alloys are so sexy.

 

[mrbasher]

Mine is mostly used for plastics and some light duty aluminum. It's a 600x400mm gantry type machine with a 1500 watt VFD spindle. Nothing amazing, but it gets the job done fine. I purchased it to replace my DIY cnc machine which wasn't really keeping up with production. It has a Gecko controller and easily maxes out what my computer can handle as far as speed. The best the computer can do is about ~220 in/min which is plenty fast.

On plastic and most aluminum I use 2 flute endmills. And single flute on some plastics. For software I have a legit copy of Solidworks 2013 which I purchased (sorry, I'm proud of that considering how many people "apparently" own a copy. That's another story though.) I also use CAMBAM for 2.5D stuff and MeshCAM5 for full 3D. I'm just getting into the full 3D stuff but it's damn cool to draw up something in Solidworks and then see it "in the flesh."

I do plan on purchasing one of the Tormach machines in the future though. It's not a VMC, but it also doesn't cost $50K and I don't have room for a retrofitted knee mill.

Anyhow... That handle is impressive! What are you using to mill it? I agree, making stuff with metal is just AWESOME!

 

[JohnBodin]

Gotcha
So is this why my old Logitech G25 when I let go off the wheel it would keep bouncing left and right?? because it had terrible dead zones??
while my T500 if I let go of the wheel it doesn't bounce at all.

No, if your wheel is "bouncing" to the left and to the right when you let go of it, what you're seeing there is FFB oscillation caused by having your FFB forces dialed-up too high. As the wheel goes to the right the forces build as it goes off-center, so the auto-centering forces try to move it back to the right, but with the forces dialed-up too high you get overshoot to the left, and then as it tries to correct back to center it overshoots to the right again, and you get an uncontrolled and self-sustaining oscillation.

That's a different issue altogether and not necessarily related to dead zone (I think that dialing-in an artificially large dead zone can help compensate for this oscillation issue, though, and I think that's why some folks have had issues with what appears to be an overly large dead zone on G25/G27 wheels).

 

[OwensRacing]

Having legit copies of software is the only way to go. In the end it does help keep us fair users price down. As for software we do everything on MasterCam. Looking at upgrading to their mill level 3 that's does 3D profiling. Right now I kinda have to cheats way into any 3D cuts. That takes to much time considering they offer a proper software.

As for machines we are using Haas Tool Room series. TM1 Mill and TL2 Lathe. Kinda wished I went with a bigger mill and said screw the lathe. As it isn't used nearly as often.

We also have a 5'x10' TorchMate plasma table that is driven by their software. 2D obviously. It's simple but works well and fairly quick for 90% of our work. A trying detailed I draw in MasterCam and bring over to be tool pathed.

As always we want more power. More speed. Even in our machines. LoL

 

[eKretz]

My last job I ran a HBM with a 30HP spindle drive motor. But it also had a manual gearbox so it was a beast. Before that, one with about 75HP, also a gearbox machine. Real easy to break stuff with those babies. Biggest lathe had a 100HP drive motor. Then there were the vertical borers. Biggest one of those I ever ran had a 24 foot diameter spinning table.

 

[eKretz]

Hey guys, out of curiosity, what is the T500 using for a power supply? What voltage and amperage is it rated for?

Edit: googled some more, looks like 24V 6.67A, is that right?

 

[Windy_1238]

Hey guys, out of curiosity, what is the T500 using for a power supply? What voltage and amperage is it rated for?

Edit: googled some more, looks like 24V 6.67A, is that right?

Yup, you are right on plus 160w!

 

[eKretz]

That's very interesting, considering the motor is capable of drawing 12.6A at start-up/stall according to its datasheet. I wonder how they are making that work.

 

[OwensRacing]

Latest project. Guy installed a BBC in his 69 Chevelle and had to use taller motor mounts. Which in turn created breather issues with the air gap intake and dual carbs. So he resourced me to make him a low profile hat that is to match his valve covers.

Here is my rendering of the hat for his breather and the valve covers that its to match. Ill post pics when complete next week.

 

[DaveTheStalker]

Hey Dave,

These are going to be really nice!!!! Excellent idea.

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[FONT=.Helvetica NeueUI]What machine you running?[/FONT]
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[FONT=.Helvetica NeueUI]Ran some plastics and prefer 2 and 3 flute tools. Pour the speed to it. LoL[/FONT]
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[FONT=.Helvetica NeueUI]Little of topic but not really considering we all have interest in making parts for the T500. Here is my recent project. Throttle handle for a high end pulling truck. Machined alloys are so sexy.[/FONT]
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[FONT=.Helvetica NeueUI]That big fat brake pedal works wonders!!! Any thoughts of doing a double wide that connects to both the brake and clutch, making one big mother of a brake pedal? Your workmanship in your craft and dedication is stellar![/FONT]

 

[Windy_1238]

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[FONT=.Helvetica NeueUI]That big fat brake pedal works wonders!!! Any thoughts of doing a double wide that connects to both the brake and clutch, making one big mother of a brake pedal? Your workmanship in your craft and dedication is stellar![/FONT]

Any thoughts of selling those Big Beautiful brake pedals?? I actually extended my brake pedal with a 3/4 in piece of plywood. Ugly, but works OK.

 

[DaveTheStalker]

Any thoughts of selling those Big Beautiful brake pedals?? I actually extended my brake pedal with a 3/4 in piece of plywood. Ugly, but works OK.

You'll have to talk to Jeff @ OwensRacing about it

 

[OwensRacing]

You'll have to talk to Jeff @ OwensRacing about it

They are on my agenda to make about 5 - 10 more.

I've got a couple projects ahead of these.

 

[Windy_1238]

they are on my agenda to make about 5 - 10 more.

I've got a couple projects ahead of these.

cool

 

[ibbanez]

I would love to purchase one of these brake pedal covers. When would these possibly go up? I am really liking this and hope that more stuff gets developed for the t500rs....

 

[Ferrari458Italia]

No, if your wheel is "bouncing" to the left and to the right when you let go of it, what you're seeing there is FFB oscillation caused by having your FFB forces dialed-up too high. As the wheel goes to the right the forces build as it goes off-center, so the auto-centering forces try to move it back to the right, but with the forces dialed-up too high you get overshoot to the left, and then as it tries to correct back to center it overshoots to the right again, and you get an uncontrolled and self-sustaining oscillation.

That's a different issue altogether and not necessarily related to dead zone (I think that dialing-in an artificially large dead zone can help compensate for this oscillation issue, though, and I think that's why some folks have had issues with what appears to be an overly large dead zone on G25/G27 wheels).

Good point, my G25 I had the FFB dialed up to 10 LOL

 

[WildRun]

FYI Great deal here for TH8 RS (only 106€):
http://www.amazon.fr/Bo%C3%AEte-de-vitesses-pour-PC/dp/B005L0Z2BQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373490509&sr=8-1&keywords=th8+rs

 

[rebla47]

Hi friends.


Do you know if there will be any Ferrari 458 Challenge Wheel Integral?


Thanks in advice.

 

[NoneEvo]

JohnBodin you have email...

 

[JohnBodin]

JohnBodin you have email...

Check your inbox -- I think I just replied.

 

[NoneEvo]

Check your inbox -- I think I just replied.

I have nothing,check,my email is noneevo@gmail.com
Thank you.

 

[Coxis]

I have tested the wheel for a few thousand km. Being enthousiastic about it the first hours, now I do not have that feelin' anymore. I like the shifters they are working just fine. But I don't like the wheel itself...as the housing of the buttons gives a sqeeuking plastic noise that started work on my nerves while racing. The F1 wheel just feels better to me... In fact (appart from the shifters) the new wheel does look the most toyisch and feels most like it aswell... Sorry TM, always been happy about your products, but this is just not the finished product i expected....

Conclusion : I am using my F1 wheel again...and the GTE wheel will become a spare one...

Racing, I have heard this comment several times now, is this squeaking noise you hear present while you're driving, as in only turning the wheel, or is it only triggered when you press the buttons?