The Thrustmaster T500RS Thread

  • Thread starter TomN
  • 9,924 comments
  • 2,142,905 views
Has anyone any tips on good solid 270-280 mm rims?

Was thinking of finding a G25/G27 rim used but not sure if they are solid enough? Mounting them with the DSD adapter should be quite easy?

Would be nice if I could find something that look a bit more like the real deal though. As for design no thumb grooves simple classic design. Maybe wood would be cool though perhaps it´s hard to get a good grip on those rims :)
 
Something is cooking at OwensCNC:

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/...891DD42-8472-000004E8BA96496C_zps4f1650b6.mp4

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/...3F98294-8472-000004EC22A671D1_zpsad13195c.mp4

942D6EBD-B90E-4DD2-A799-9803B913AFAA-8472-000004E7140ED6AB_zpsd28c5d40.jpg


E4395E00-C098-43C1-A0E0-F6762E83929B-8472-000004EB378AA3A4_zpsb5974a4a.jpg
 
PM Sent.


I will have 18-21 of these made up and ready to be engraved. Once engraved. I will press the arch in them and ship. :)
 
Got the new fan and installed it. Certainly look beefier then the stock I can actually feel that it´s blow air. The old would stop after like 2 rotations. Interesting that they switched fan position as well.

I am doing a bit of GRID 2 and as usual I am just totally awful at drifting. I can do it on gravel but not on tarmac it seems. Evaluating the G27 and the T500RS I wonder if not the G27 is better for this. Easier to handle 270 mm rim and no resistance whatsoever? Or should you have larger rims for drifting? Anyway I have no clue particularly not with arcade games how to pull it off smoothly . I somehow manages to get gold on hard in GRID 2 but it feel just luck that I for once get the angle right lol. Doing small controlled drifts is fast but don´t score any points lol

Thinking of getting a 270 mm rim or if I would just scrap that and go with the G27 for my rallying. 320 mm rim do feel to cumbersome for RBR as well.
 
oqvist
Got the new fan and installed it. Certainly look beefier then the stock I can actually feel that it´s blow air. The old would stop after like 2 rotations. Interesting that they switched fan position as well.

I am doing a bit of GRID 2 and as usual I am just totally awful at drifting. I can do it on gravel but not on tarmac it seems. Evaluating the G27 and the T500RS I wonder if not the G27 is better for this. Easier to handle 270 mm rim and no resistance whatsoever? Or should you have larger rims for drifting? Anyway I have no clue particularly not with arcade games how to pull it off smoothly . I somehow manages to get gold on hard in GRID 2 but it feel just luck that I for once get the angle right lol. Doing small controlled drifts is fast but don´t score any points lol

Thinking of getting a 270 mm rim or if I would just scrap that and go with the G27 for my rallying. 320 mm rim do feel to cumbersome for RBR as well.
Click to expand...

You could always buy a DSD T500 adapter and a real drift steeringwheel with momo bolt pattern. ;)

Not really a drifter either. I could drift easily with the 360 pad, but when I grabbed the wheel with this game I ended up being more of a precision driver.
I am getting more reliable though.

I don't know if rim size matters for drifting though. The bigger the rim the slower you steer, the smaller the rim the faster you steer. That's all I know.
Smaller is better for arcade games I suppose, specially the pad oriented one. After all, steering with your gamepad stick is really quick too.
 
Well GRID 2 and DIRT 3 do seem to require some form of precision though. But yes supposedly easier with gamepad as you get from lock to lock faster. Did I tell you I got stuck on DIRT 3 on some of the first drift events that is more of a tutorial that you are supposed to do eights lol...

I already have the DSD adapter for my 320 mm rim. I am looking for cheaper alternatives though then 250$ momos since 320 mm will probably still be my main rim and I am not really sure I would preferr the T500RS over G27 for rally or drifting anyway.

Maybe I can find a G25/G27 rim and put it on the T500RS. Has anybody done this is it rigid enough?
 
How are you supposed to attach the top scew for the cover with the nut? It´s impossible to hold the nut in place for an ordinary human while attaching the scew. I suppose it not all that necessary to attach though.
 
oqvist
Well GRID 2 and DIRT 3 do seem to require some form of precision though. But yes supposedly easier with gamepad as you get from lock to lock faster. Did I tell you I got stuck on DIRT 3 on some of the first drift events that is more of a tutorial that you are supposed to do eights lol...

I already have the DSD adapter for my 320 mm rim. I am looking for cheaper alternatives though then 250$ momos since 320 mm will probably still be my main rim and I am not really sure I would preferr the T500RS over G27 for rally or drifting anyway.

Maybe I can find a G25/G27 rim and put it on the T500RS. Has anybody done this is it rigid enough?
Click to expand...

Have you tried turning the FFB down?
 
Yes but the T500RS do have resistance from the awesome big ffb motor so you can never get it as light as the G27. And it´s also harder to turn a bigger rim fast on top of that. But I suppose there is a reason why there aren´t many 270 mm drifting rims despite with todays power steering that would be manageable I imagine?

Real drifters correct me if I am wrong I have no clue as mentioned ;)
 
Firecracker
Per Thrustmaster only every other screw on the F458 wheel is used to secure the rim to it's base. Starting from the bottom and going clockwise the bottom screw and every other screw is used to secure it. The other screws are cosmetic.
Screws_GTE20Wheel_GB_zps5f923efb.jpg
Click to expand...

Thanks for posting this, had the same thing happen tonight.
 
oquist: I have no expirience in those games, but I do alot of drifting. Just had my T500 send to Thrustmaster support due an axis problem and bought a really cheap G25 for back-up. The stong points drifting with the G25 are that the FFB are alot lighter so you can turn the Wheel quick without the heavy resistance feel and it still spins the Wheel quite fast (In GT5 - FFB 10, Power assistance off - also during race´s). The T500 is a beast, when I race in GT5 I preffer Power Ass. off and FFB 5, during drifting I change settengs to - FFB 10, Power Ass. ON - This makes turning resistance really low but has quite fast Wheel spin so its possible to Work the Wheel really quíckly under turns and corrections but it can spin with enough speed and power. If I turn Power ass off its either way too heavy a FFB or it dosnt spin fast enough (for me). So comparring the two I feel it like the G25 dont have alot off FFB but spins with a good speed because you can run the high FFB, The T500 has great FFB but spin speed is pairred with it so you quickly fight ffb-power and spin speed. (IN GT5)

If you like drifting I highly reccomend you to try the PC game Live for Speed (demo are free) Here the T500 truely comes to life, you can run quite high FFB while doing quick turns/corrections and the amount of spin speed will simply make you think twice about NOT recomending the Master T for drift. This game may not be avoided for T500 drifting! Try It!

Btw: A G25/G27 rim will not match on your T500, a bigger rim will make you turn slower only because you have to turn abit more but ressistance will be lower and I guess you could Work the Wheel with more precision - About the greater arm movements makes up for the lower resistance, I dont know.

BBTW: I had Dirt Showdown for PS3 a short while, that game was no fun on my Wheel - Good fun on DS3 tho, but that might be why I only had it a short time.
 
Thanks! I do have LFS will have it a go though I suppose I will do most my drifting in the arcade titles lol. Will try it out and see what I found. As for GRID 2 main thing it just must have less steering lock. Putting it below 400 made a world of difference in actually managing loosen the grip on the rear tires. Thus the F1 wheel kind of work really well... 270 got too responsive even.

I have to do another run on the G27 at 360 or something but so far it does seem the bigger rim does help getting the angles just right just like it does in the simulations.
 
I haven´t run Showdown but 900 degrees worked okay for GRID 2 when not drifting. But more competitive with 380 I run now. DIRT 3 I have only touched at but seems to like similar settings.

Way more fun then gamepad anyway.
 
Guys,

Has anyone done any accurate measurements of the main wheel screw (pitch and diameter)?

I have recently gained access to a 3D printed and would like to make myself a custom wheel, but I haven't been able to find accurate measurements of the screw thread (which I don't have the equipment to do myself).

Thanks!
 
I don't have that but I know there are a few people that do. However, having worked with some 3D printed parts, I do not believe the printed part will provide you the strength you need. If you want to go this route, a good idea would be to create the part you need using the printer, then create a mold of it. Then cast a solid part from using an appropriate resin.
 
I`m going to buy this wheel and naturally I`m looking in the market for V5. This is what one of the online retailer sent to me:



The place with version number was deliberately covered with white sticker. What to think about it? Is it some kind of refurb, packed in used box or is it normal for T500RS?
 
Last edited:
You can't tell if the wheel you get, is really the same version as stated on the box, anyway. I have a V2 box, but a V1 wheel and a V1 pedal-set, and I even ordered mine via Amazon (though they didn't state anything about a specific version).

But surely, it looks suspicious that the version number is covered.




- And, regarding the fan on my T500, I now think I know the difference between normal and not normal... My fan sounded like a lawnmower, two days ago, but then went normal after the initial startup. That have only happened once, and I, sadly, didn't get a recording of it :boggled:... Surely that can't be normal?
 
Last edited:
My fan started making some noise after ± 1000 hours so I replaced it yesterday with a Scynthe mini-kaze silent. I fixed it next to the heat sink with a rubber band.

Next time I use a led fan, because I can't hear when the fan stops and I can un-plug the wheel.
 
Dean J
You can't tell if the wheel you get, is really the same version as stated on the box, anyway. I have a V2 box, but a V1 wheel and a V1 pedal-set, and I even ordered mine via Amazon (though they didn't state anything about a specific version).

But surely, it looks suspicious that the version number is covered.




- And, regarding the fan on my T500, I now think I know the difference between normal and not normal... My fan sounded like a lawnmower, two days ago, but then went normal after the initial startup. That have only happened once, and I, sadly, didn't get a recording of it :boggled:... Surely that can't be normal?
Click to expand...
I got a fan without a recording of it. I told them it's impossible to sit and get a intermittent fan noise!!
 
prarts
The wheel is still in their warehouse. I`m waiting with my order until I get some clarifications.
Any other case with covered version number, anyone?
Click to expand...

That is not the normal packaging anyway. All of the T500 RS wheels I have seen have the box you had a picture of inside another box (a brown one). And the version number is also on the brown box. But as others have said, a number of people have noted the box says one version, but the wheel is actually something else! So perhaps they have now started to cover it up intentionally.

Incidentally, V4 and V5 are both absolutely fine. I am not sure I have ever seen a clear explanation on what the differences are between V4 and V5 but if you read through the thread, both are the versions to aim for.
 
jonstatt
That is not the normal packaging anyway. All of the T500 RS wheels I have seen have the box you had a picture of inside another box (a brown one). And the version number is also on the brown box. But as others have said, a number of people have noted the box says one version, but the wheel is actually something else! So perhaps they have now started to cover it up intentionally.

Incidentally, V4 and V5 are both absolutely fine. I am not sure I have ever seen a clear explanation on what the differences are between V4 and V5 but if you read through the thread, both are the versions to aim for.
Click to expand...

My wheel is a V1 -- it was one of the first (if not THE first) T500 to hit store shelves in the Indianapolis area. It was purchased when the T500 was first released, it's been used almost daily since purchase, and it's not given me any problems at all, so I'm not sure why everybody gets all hung up on the need to have a V4 or V5.

The only thing that's changed with the newer (post-V2?) units is the pedal springs -- newer versions use compression springs, and the earlier versions seemed to have less reliable "wound"-type springs.

Again, though, my unit is a V1, my pedals are V1 pedals, and my pedal springs haven't given me any problems to date.

Stop sweating the details, make the purchase, and start enjoying a REAL wheel.

Just my $0.02.
 
True. I have a supposedly V5 wheel with my F1 integral version but still had the old fan installed. And for all I know it could be true it´s just the region. V5 for western Europe... Not much to hang up about
 

Similar threads

W
Thrustmaster T300 wheelbase with Fanatec Clubsport V3 pedals?
Replies
22
Views
2K
Oshawa-Joe
Oshawa-Joe
T
Drivehub Can I recognize Simagic TB-RS and Thirstmaster TH8A on PS5?
Replies
4
Views
404
touge_meister
T
Famine
Thrustmaster Reveals New TH8S Shifter Add-On
Replies
8
Views
4K
BWK_TERROR
BWK_TERROR
L
Thrustmaster T500 rs Why cannot support on PS5 and GT7?
Replies
5
Views
6K
Famine
Famine
S
Latest drivers and firmware Thrustmaster T500RS
Replies
1
Views
1K
suheyl
S

Latest Posts

Back