Won't be long and I will have the Big Brake Pedals ready. Had quite a few projects come through the shop. When your old man owns the place and says he needs such and such done. Well my projects get put to the back burner. :/
Anyway, progress is made. Now with the a
Press machined and done time to arc the pedals that are cut and get a finish on them. I was happy with the way this turned out and had to share. Repeatability!!
Won't be long and I will have the Big Brake Pedals ready. Had quite a few projects come through the shop. When your old man owns the place and says he needs such and such done. Well my projects get put to the back burner. :/
Anyway, progress is made. Now with the a
Press machined and done time to arc the pedals that are cut and get a finish on them. I was happy with the way this turned out and had to share. Repeatability!!
Paul,
I don't know if you're an iRacer, but over at their forums there are a handful of people who've taken their T500 wheels to actual automotive places where they outfit wheels (don't know the name in English, sorry) and have them wrapped in leather or alcantara.
If you dislike the rubber rim that much (which is understandable) you can take a look at that route.
Won't be long and I will have the Big Brake Pedals ready. Had quite a few projects come through the shop. When your old man owns the place and says he needs such and such done. Well my projects get put to the back burner. :/
Anyway, progress is made. Now with the a
Press machined and done time to arc the pedals that are cut and get a finish on them. I was happy with the way this turned out and had to share. Repeatability!!
I finally snapped and had it with all the noise coming from the GTE add-on wheel. Just constant creaking noises. Not only that, but while I'm 99.999 percent certain I originally tightened all the screws on it, the three screws attaching the wheel had become super lose (despite the terrible wobble, I'd assumed those 3 "free" spinning screws were the cosmetic screws). I think they loosened because of how much flex there is with the design (which also creates all the creaking noises). So I decided to take it apart and tighten up the gaps between the wheel and the main housing.
The arrows I'm pointing at is just cut pieces of this:
Padded felt with stickied tape on the other side.
That kept the side "wings" from being able to flex quite a bit. But there was still a significant gap on the top corners that allowed a lot of play. So I grabbed some two sided silicon tape I had:
And put a little square on the top left and right. I haven't cut the excess bit off yet (so I could take a picture that showed where it was).
I didn't do anything to the bottom section (there's a tiny gap that could easily be fixed with some super glue). But this has tightened everything up considerably. No more constant creaking. Played quite a bit of the Clio on Lime Rock (rf2) and the Mazda on Summit Point (iracing) and didn't hear a single creaking noise. Granted I'm wearing headphones, but that never stopped me from hearing constant noises before.
P.S. How great is this Grant 10 inch wheel:
Would this not be perfect for the GTE housing? And it's half the price of the Momo 27. If I had a drill press, I think I'd have already ordered it.
EDIT: I thought that was the same size as the GTE. It's an inch smaller. Came real close to ordering it, but that seems too small. I'm sure the housing would fit, but lopping another inch off the diameter seems like a bad idea.
That's 10 inches like the Grant wheel. I don't think I'd want to go another inch smaller than the GTE wheel. That seems way too limiting for non-open wheelers.
Anyways, I rebuilt a part of my rig and the steering wheel is a lot more rigid (plus it's got some dampening material underneath it). This has made the artificial rattles go away significantly. Those clunks reverberating through the hard rubber isn't nearly as noticeable now.
Plus, I've ordered some stuff I'm going to play around with. Couldn't go directly through amazon with it, so it's taking longer to arrive than I planned. Gonna be an interesting experiment.
They do a 285mm version too: http://www.kitpartsdirect.com/item....285/w/285mm_D-Type_Black_Suede_Steering_Wheel
I didn't see a thread about the T80. I was talking to my cousin in France about wheels for the PS4/PS3, he gave me a French Amazon link to the T80. Has anyone heard about this?
Beware mobile site.
http://mobile.thrustmaster.com/node/5593
If you want to start a thread about it, feel free.
[, thanks to the wheels realistic linear resistance with automatic re-centering via Thrustmasters exclusive Bungee Cord technology/QUOTE]
I think that's all that needs to be covered with this wheel.
My early verdict on those 12 dollar pedals from Amazon are they're a definite keeper. No way will I being going back to the stock ones.
Did my first ever race in Iracing (Mazda - Rookie Cup) and started in 7th and finished 2nd Was the only one to finish with 0 incident points. Kind of a miracle considering the horrible pileup that happened in corner one.
Anyways, that's proof, to me at least, that's it's more than placebo and these things are keepers. It just feels good to have the brake pressed against the entire width of the foot. And if I ever graduate from noob status and learn heal-and-toe, they're a massive upgrade over the stock layout.
That rug is a great idea!!! The diamond plate eats socks!
To heel and toe with those, instead of having the brake pedal pads centered on the pedal, move the gas pedal over one toward the brake and move the brake over one toward the gas, and put some sort of spacer under the brake pedal pad (between the pad and pedal) to lift it up a little bit.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vAY9aROwjlA
Thrustmaster has just published the second video on the new wheel. They claim new frictionless dual belt with super smooth action.
If that means they've gotten rid of the notchiness with certain effects, I'm intrigued.