The Thrustmaster T500RS Thread

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John im still waiting for your next batch .
Sick of refreshing twitter feed.
Is there going to be a next batch?

I've got a bunch of units on my workbench now awaiting assembly -- been busy this week, but I should be able to get them finished-up tomorrow (Saturday), so look for some to be posted within the next 3 - 5 days (need to test and box them up after assembly).
 
RE Driver Update:

I installed them and just rolled back. It really does seem like they've numbed things up by turning down the maximum periodic setting. It seemed to have that numb feeling I get when I lowered that value previously. Ran one lap with iracing and wasn't thrilled with it. Then I loaded up the Assetto Corsa tech demo. The Elise has wonderful weight shift to it and I felt that was really numbed down too.

I mean, if somebody can tell me what they did and why it's a positive, I'll "upgrade" back. But right now, just going by quick impressions and the vagueness of their description, I'm going to operate under the assumption this was done for warranty purposes in an effort to lower the defect rates a bit.

Maybe it even keeps the motor cooler and prevents the garbage fan from being a warranty issue, but since I've gutted that, it's a non-issue for me.
 
No change for me on iRacing or rFactor 2. Drivers improvements are probably only for coming titles (Assetto Corsa final version, F1 2013 & GSC 2013).
 
I've got a bunch of units on my workbench now awaiting assembly -- been busy this week, but I should be able to get them finished-up tomorrow (Saturday), so look for some to be posted within the next 3 - 5 days (need to test and box them up after assembly).

thank you for the update john 👍
 
From TM's changelog"
Changes made in new driver version:

- Force Feedback optimized in some PC games

= We strongly recommend that you update your PC with this new driver version.

This driver includes the previous changes:

(2013_TTRS_1)
- Added detection of the “Ferrari 458 Challenge Wheel” in the Control Panel.
- Resolved a problem of the wheel randomly disconnecting in some PC games.
- Resolved a problem of residual Force Feedback effects in some PC games.
(2012_TTRS_3)
Solved a problem that appeared when users attempted to save force effects in the Control Panel)
(2012_TTRS_2)
Optimization of the latency, refreshing and reactivity of Force Feedback effects for “next-generation” games

System Requirement :

- Windows® XP, Windows® Vista, Windows® 7, Windows® 8 (32-bit / 64-bit)


Important:

- DO NOT CONNECT the T500 RS racing wheel to your PC before being prompted to do so.

- DO NOT CLICK in any Windows-specific panes that may appear during the update process.

- RESTART THE COMPUTER once the package setup is complete.


Create a folder for all your Thrustmaster downloads: right-click the Windows desktop, then point to New/Folder.

- Name the folder Thrustmaster Downloads.

- Click the download link.

- A File Download dialog box appears. Click Save.

- A Save As dialog box appears. Select the Thrustmaster Downloads folder you have created and then click Save.


Installation :

1- Double-click the installation file (2013_TTRS_2.exe) to proceed with the installation.

2- Follow the instructions displayed onscreen.

3- When done, select Start/All Programs/Thrustmaster/T500 RS Racing Wheel/Control Panel.

The Game Controllers dialog displays; the racing wheel appears onscreen with the name Thrustmaster T500 RS Racing Wheel or Ferrari F1 wheel Integral T500 and with the status indication OK

4- In the Control Panel, click Properties to configure your racing wheel:

* Test Input: Enables you to test the buttons, the D-Pad, the Wheel, the Pedals and to configure wheel Rotation Angle.

* Test Forces: Enables you to test 12 force effects.

* Gain Settings: Enables you to configure the Force Feedback.

Click on OK to save your settings and exit the Control Panel.


You are now ready to race!


General comments:

- Your wheel’s Firmware version appears in the top right in the Control Panel’s tabs. Firmware: 41 is the latest version.

- For most games (e.g.: GTR™, rFactor™, iRacing™): in the OPTIONS/CONTROLS/FORCE FEEDBACK settings, Force Feedback effects must be set to “POSITIVE = + Values” or “NON-REVERSED”.

Notes regarding the FERRARI 458 CHALLENGE WHEEL:
- On PlayStation®3 and PC, the “Ferrari 458 Challenge Wheel” is recognized as a "T500 RS" wheel.
The racing wheel appears onscreen under the name Thrustmaster T500 RS Racing wheel.

Notes regarding the FERRARI F1 racing wheel:
- On PlayStation®3 and PC, the Ferrari F1 racing wheel is recognized as a "T500 RS" wheel.
This is the “Normal Mode” , offering 13 action buttons + D-Pad (in this mode, the D-Pads, shifters and L3/R3 buttons are combined). In this mode, the 2 rotary encoders emulate the D-Pad's 4 main directions. They can therefore be used to alter a car's settings (engines, tires, fairing, etc.). To use them, if required, access your game's Control options and alter them as required.

The racing wheel appears onscreen under the name Thrustmaster T500 RS Racing wheel.

- On PC (only), the racing wheel can be configured in “Advanced Mode” to offer 25 action buttons + 1 D-Pad (in this mode, the 2 rotary encoders, 2 D-Pads, 4 shifters and 4 L3/R3 buttons are configured individually). To do so, in the T500 RS Control Panel, select the Advanced Mode option.

The racing wheel appears onscreen under the name Ferrari F1 wheel Integral T500
 
I don't really believe they can tweak on a per game basis. I think they're just releasing it because a game like rfactor 2 has a lot of herk and jerk bumps transmitted through the road with the old cars. And in an effort to tame that, they've lowered the maximum allowed Periodic setting.

I think the hyperbole in the notes is an effort to confuse people. As I said, I think this about limiting their exposure through warranty claims. And I played around with lowering the periodic setting (in an effort to quiet the bumpy roads in rF2) enough to know how that setting numbs things. It feels like they lowered the default so that maybe 100 for periodic is 90 with the old drivers. It's got that numbed feeling with effects.
 
(2012_TTRS_2)
Optimization of the latency, refreshing and reactivity of Force Feedback effects for “next-generation” games


Hopefully that means that are "current generation" wheels are going to work on ps4.:)
 
Hopefully that means that are "current generation" wheels are going to work on ps4.:)

But it's not a firmware update. This is just on the driver level for the PC.

EDIT: And that was from three updates ago (second update of 2012). This update is super vague, just that it's super duper and everyone should update cause it's supposedly amazing.
 
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Got my new T500RS F1 Edition wheel on Wednesday. Got to say it is impressive looking :) So I took the Fanatec CSR wheel off my GT Omega EVO rig and got the new wheel mounted up. Moved the Fanatec CSP V1 pedals off and setup the new TM pedals and added the "Realistic Brake Mod" that came with it. I've got the Basher Brake Mod coming but it hasn't arrived and I just had to try this out.

Installed all the software on the PC and updated to the latest firmware. Got everything setup and fired up iRacing. First impressions are the wheel feels really nice. Very solid and controlled feeling. Need to play with the forces and adjustments but was very happy with it right away.

The TM pedal set was a different story. Really having a hard time getting adjusted to those. I'll try more with the Basher kit when it gets here but right now I seem to lock up the wheels a lot going into corners. I do like the feel of the CSP pedals better. To bad somebody doesn't make a mod/cable adapter to use the CSP pedals all the time with the TM Wheel. I think I read I can use them on the PC side but not the PS3 side because of the connector. I do want to get a Bodin Load Cell Mod if I can get lucky enough to grab one. I don't want to switch pedal sets back and forth if I can help it.

Anyway we'll see as I get more time with it. I knew going in of the possible pedal differences so I plan on giving it a good try.

Jim
 
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186602DB-C0E6-4F27-A993-AB20CFA008CA-775-00000071677C36B1_zps1db97b68.jpg


Edit: Adjusted Shipping price. Cost $7 with envelope in the lower 48.

I have no idea what is lower or outside, but how much is it to send to the UK please? Assuming you post outside the USA. Thanks
 
motoman,

It looks like your brake mod is coming today. I suggest you install it asap ;) I had the same problem with their brake mod. I now never use ABS, not even on 1. You still need to drive and brake properly of course, but it's much simpler to do with a stiffer brake pedal.
 
/\/\

Yeah. You had a genius inspiration with that mod of yours. It makes a massive difference in how those pedals behave. Lock-ups shouldn't be much of an issue once he installs them.
 
motoman,

It looks like your brake mod is coming today. I suggest you install it asap ;) I had the same problem with their brake mod. I now never use ABS, not even on 1. You still need to drive and brake properly of course, but it's much simpler to do with a stiffer brake pedal.

Thanks for the update. I'm really looking forward to trying it out. Mail should be here soon. :) I'll post my results after I've had a chance to try it out.

Later

Jim
 
I got the Brake Mod this afternoon and installed it. Installation was easy but then all kinds of other problems started. I couldn't get this thing to power on. Tried everything. Finally after playing around with the power plug at the back of the wheel it powered up then flickered and went off then back on. Doesn't seem like that connecter fits in real solid. Anyway then the wheel would not calibrate back to center. It was even off in F1 2012. I putzed around with that for I don't know how long. I finally got it to calibrate back to center. Don't know what I did but it is back to center.

Well the Basher Mod is an improvement. I was able to get better lap times than with the stock pedals. It is a great mod and works well. Much better feel and I'm not locking up the brakes at every turn. I haven't been able to better my times in iRacing yet using these pedals. I really like the CSP V1's I have but hopefully a little more time on these I can get used to them a little more. I think I like the feel of a load cell setup more. Maybe it is because I've already used a set of pedals with a load cell setup or maybe it is all in my mind. :) We'll see...

I need more time with the wheel and the pedals. Today's issues bothered me so I'm a little put off right now with this wheel. I ordered it from Amazon so if very many more problems crop up like they did today I'll be sending it back.

Later,

Jim
 
Another update :)

Got back to some more testing and adjusting with the wheel and pedals. It powered up just fine this time. Maybe the power cord got pulled out a little when I did the brake mod. Anyway all seemed fine.

Did some more laps in iRacing and bettered my time on numerous tracks with different cars. The more I use the Basher Brake mod the more comfortable I am with it. For a low cost mod it really makes a huge difference. 👍

I'm liking the wheel. Overall feel is very nice and when you start improving your lap times then that makes it even better. So far no fan noise or overheating. Just the small hiccup earlier and that was probably something I did :dunce:

Anyway that is all for now.

Later

Jim
 
Your foot can´t know if you use a loadcell or not. It´s the rubber that give the progressive resistance as you push the pedal. If brake pedals would be planks load cells would have an advantage though since potentiometres need more travel then load cells.
 
No change for me on iRacing or rFactor 2. Drivers improvements are probably only for coming titles (Assetto Corsa final version, F1 2013 & GSC 2013).

After installing the new drivers and opened the Thrustmaster driver tool, it showed a change:

The default settings (60/100/100/100/100) were changed to
overall 100
constant 100
periodic 100
spring 0
damper 0

When I noticed, I changed it back to the former default settings. Then I entered iRacing and experienced a huge loss of FFB strength.

Thereafter I changed it back to the 100/100/100/0/0 and now the FFB feels the same as with the old driver and 60/100/100/100/100.

Wierd... :dunce:
 
After installing the new drivers and opened the Thrustmaster driver tool, it showed a change: The default settings (60/100/100/100/100) were changed to overall 100 constant 100 periodic 100 spring 0 damper 0 When I noticed, I changed it back to the former default settings. Then I entered iRacing and experienced a huge loss of FFB strength. Thereafter I changed it back to the 100/100/100/0/0 and now the FFB feels the same as with the old driver and 60/100/100/100/100. Wierd... :dunce:

just changed back to the older driver. strange, after installation I had again the 100/100/100/0/0 instead of the default settings here as well. Will check the FFB with old driver tomorrow.
 
I'll hold back as well :scared:... It sounds pretty wierd that the driver's "weaker" than the previous, in my ears. :boggled:
 
Actually, these new settings and the results make perfect sense... 100% is likely now a real 100% instead of the overdriven (clipping) that 100% was before. Remember, it's been confirmed several times now that 60% is the maximum without "clipping." Makes sense to me.
 
Doesn´t make sense that you can´t enhance the smaller effects at all. It´s not like the T500RS is capable of 100 % natural torque anyway. You can enhance the low level effects on the logitech and Fanatec wheels as well.

I generally run below 60 anyway but that can´t be it posibly :)
 
just changed back to the older driver. strange, after installation I had again the 100/100/100/0/0 instead of the default settings here as well. Will check the FFB with old driver tomorrow.

Just did some laps on the olde driver and with default (60/100/100/100/100) setings.

FFB is now weak here as well!

The same as with the new drivers. How can that be?
 
Actually, these new settings and the results make perfect sense... 100% is likely now a real 100% instead of the overdriven (clipping) that 100% was before. Remember, it's been confirmed several times now that 60% is the maximum without "clipping." Makes sense to me.

Everyone seems to have different opinions :lol

That wasn't my impression. I always drive at 60 percent power. And to control my car in iracing, crank the FFB as high as it can go without clipping (in-game). The FFB was still as strong as an ox with the new drivers, it was just the effects that had been numbed down (Periodic at 100). Same impression I had in the Assetto Corsa tech demo.

As I've said before, I've experimented heavily with Periodic settings in the past to try and deal with the harsh bumps in rF2 and the ABS on the Mazda in iracing. I always went back to 100 for Periodic because although it tames those things, it numbs everything up.

If we could bet on these things, it's my theory they turned the max Periodic down to something like 90 (in the old drivers).
 
I should have qualified what I said by stating that I hadn't actually tried the drivers myself and hadn't planned to. I was purely going off the observations of Mahnegold. I'm not really ok with companies turning things down or off in an effort to "save" their customers. I will say that I have yet to hear of a T500RS motor overheating so that seems an unlikely reason for this change.

I can take a look at the registry keys and see if they have changed, I need to anyhow to make sure my settings manager app still works properly...
 
I should have qualified what I said by stating that I hadn't actually tried the drivers myself and hadn't planned to. I was purely going off the observations of Mahnegold. I'm not really ok with companies turning things down or off in an effort to "save" their customers. I will say that I have yet to hear of a T500RS motor overheating so that seems an unlikely reason for this change.

I can take a look at the registry keys and see if they have changed, I need to anyhow to make sure my settings manager app still works properly...

My T500 motor would definitely get hot, as evidenced by the very warm outer casing on the top, but I do not remember ever having any FFB fade. It would surprise me if they updated the driver to avoid an alleged overheating problem.
 
I should have qualified what I said by stating that I hadn't actually tried the drivers myself and hadn't planned to. I was purely going off the observations of Mahnegold. I'm not really ok with companies turning things down or off in an effort to "save" their customers. I will say that I have yet to hear of a T500RS motor overheating so that seems an unlikely reason for this change.

I can take a look at the registry keys and see if they have changed, I need to anyhow to make sure my settings manager app still works properly...

Your settings manager still works perfect.

I don't notice any difference in the FFB after the new drivers. I have no top cover on the wheel and the engine feels hot after 1 hour.
I did a complete 2 hour race today with strong FFB and there was no fade in the ffb.
 
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I don't think it's possible to overheat the motor unless there's some damage somewhere. I'm sure they have temperature protection circuitry built in, like Fanatec. It's just that TM have a much better motor than the Fanatec wheels. The Fanatec wheels are often operating their motors at or maybe even over their rated capacities (depending on settings) whereas the TM seems to have some headroom.
 
It sure get hot though. The foam had melted a bit on mine when I took it apart to replace the fan. That explained the smell :)

Btw what is the name of the old drivers. I searched and found some 2012 ttrs_3. Have to install it on my backup computer.
 
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