The Thrustmaster T500RS Thread

  • Thread starter TomN
  • 9,924 comments
  • 2,169,248 views
skrigs
Thanks for the help that fixed it! Since you fixed that for me my wheel has one other weird thing it does that maybe you can help with. When I go to the in game keyboard (on any game)to type it flickers back and forth quickly between caps and small letters like a stuck key on a pc keyboard. Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Connect the wheel to your PC and load up the controller CP -- Check if there's a button that's maybe stuck or getting some ghost presses. It's been so long since I fired up my PS3, but I believe the button that toggles Caps is R2 or L2. If you are getting ghost presses even on PC, there's not much you can do, the button's gone bad. If not, then your wheel is fine and I'd say live with it or type with a controller or keyboard. :P
 
sup fellas
so I was in GT6 customizing my car and everything, but it says press R1/L1 to turn the car around so you can view it from different angles but I realized that the T500 doesn't have a L1/R1?? it has L3/R3, L2/R2, but wheres the L1/R1???

I never really realized this until I was modifying my car haha
 
There's a bug in GT6 right now, apparently none of the wheels give working R1/L1 in menus. Turn on a controller and set it to be controller 1 if you need that function for now...your wheel still works fine in races as controller 2.
 
skazz
There's a bug in GT6 right now, apparently none of the wheels give working R1/L1 in menus. Turn on a controller and set it to be controller 1 if you need that function for now...your wheel still works fine in races as controller 2.
Click to expand...

Used same setup for GT5. Lots easier for navigation and other tasks than using the rim's buttons...
...and because I removed static paddle shifters in last summer when I got the 458 rim.
 
Talking of the 458 rim: I've heard reports of creaking plastic with it, and was wondering how much and which noises yours makes.

My 2 week old 458 rim, despite some tightening of the 3 front bolts and the 6 rear screws, makes a sort of "click" creak noise from the plastic area in the top left. It seems to be some kind of play between the plastic back panel and the metal rim, and happens if I put any force on the rim in a lateral direction (which is kind of hard not to do when racing, not all force goes in the direction of rotation). I have all the bolts and screws tightened as far as I dare without putting excessive force on them, and was wondering what a good next move could be. The play has me worried about the longevity of the rim more than anything else...
 
/\

My GTE rim makes a lot of noise. I think if I drilled a couple strategically placed holes, I could relieve some stress and eliminate it. But I've just learned to tune it out. The plastic is just too tightly spaced. I can push down on the faceplate of the GTE, and have it make noises. And it's coming from where the top and bottom parts come together. It's just too tight. I don't think it's going to impact the longevity of it, it's just a little annoying to listen too.
 
Mine makes that sound too, and I have to tune it out as well. It's like a *click* *tick* sound. I wonder if just putting some strategically placed scotch tape between the pieces would eliminate the sound? Worth a try.

Or... Some strategically placed silicone spray... Those *click* sounds are most likely what you said Paul, and tightening the screws probably makes it worse because the tighter things are pressed together, the louder the click will be when they can move. Plastic "sticks" when pressed against each other, the *click* is that freeing. I think putting some lube on it might make it go away :) Also worth a try. :D

(EDIT: It's worth noting... Make sure the spray you get, if you do this, is plastic safe!)
 
skazz
Talking of the 458 rim: I've heard reports of creaking plastic with it, and was wondering how much and which noises yours makes.

My 2 week old 458 rim, despite some tightening of the 3 front bolts and the 6 rear screws, makes a sort of "click" creak noise from the plastic area in the top left. It seems to be some kind of play between the plastic back panel and the metal rim, and happens if I put any force on the rim in a lateral direction (which is kind of hard not to do when racing, not all force goes in the direction of rotation). I have all the bolts and screws tightened as far as I dare without putting excessive force on them, and was wondering what a good next move could be. The play has me worried about the longevity of the rim more than anything else...
Click to expand...

Speaking of the 458 rim, I'm kind of thinking about getting one but I just don't understand what difference/advanage the 458 rim will give me over the normal stock T500 wheel.

like I can see a difference between the F1 rim and the normal rim, but why would anyone want the 458 rim over the normal rim aside from the moving paddle shifters?

sorry if this is a stupid/bad question but I'm seriously curious
 
Last edited:
Ferrari458Italia
Speaking of the 458 rim, I'm kind of thinking about getting one but I just don't understand what difference/advanage the 458 rim will give me over the normal stock T500 wheel.

like I can see a difference between the F1 rim and the normal rim, but why would anyone want the 458 rim over the normal rim aside from the moving paddle shifters?

sorry if this is a stupid/bad question but I'm seriously curious
Click to expand...

Well in my case the paddle shifters were a big enough upgrade to not even bother considering your question.
In fact, after a a few minutes with it, I removed the static paddle shifters from the base.

I have a TH8RS, so now the GT rim that came bundled with the T500 is used when I do manual H, or sequential.
The DS3 is there to handle L1, and R1 duties the static paddle shifters might be used for.
 
Thanks guys, good to know we are all hearing the same thing. I might well try loosening the 4 screws holding the plastic back together: I assume the 3 bolts holding the metal rim to the steering column should be as right as possible though?

Re: 458 vs. GT rim. I've been using both a fair bit in the last week with GT6. I'm just as fast with either, given a couple of laps to get used to the slightly different hand position. Personally I have no problem with the fixed shifter paddles, but with the 458 rim I switch over to the rim paddles with ease. In terms of FFB I'd say the bigger rim seems to give just a hint more tiny forces, probably because it's larger and a fraction lighter. The 458 rim is fine though, and because it's smaller (28 vs. 30cm) you can react a hint faster.

I haven't noticed any difference in spin speed between the two (1.1 vs. 1.25kg weight difference, the GT rim is lighter because it doesn't have paddles).

If I had to pick just one rim, it would be the GT rim, since it's great for road cars. The 458 rim is best for race cars.
 
JogoAsobi
Well in my case the paddle shifters were a big enough upgrade to not even bother considering your question.
In fact, after a a few minutes with it, I removed the static paddle shifters from the base.

I have a TH8RS, so now the GT rim that came bundled with the T500 is used when I do manual H, or sequential.
The DS3 is there to handle L1, and R1 duties the static paddle shifters might be used for.
Click to expand...

i see I see. well I do like the smaller diameter and "rounder" wheel + ofcourse the dynamic paddles

Azure Flare
@Ferrari458Italia I have the GTE wheel on order, should arrive by Friday. I'll give my thoughts on it after I've had some time with it.
Click to expand...

sounds good! I'm thinking about ordering one from Amazon and if I don't think it's worth the 130 value I'll just return it :P

skazz
Thanks guys, good to know we are all hearing the same thing. I might well try loosening the 4 screws holding the plastic back together: I assume the 3 bolts holding the metal rim to the steering column should be as right as possible though?

Re: 458 vs. GT rim. I've been using both a fair bit in the last week with GT6. I'm just as fast with either, given a couple of laps to get used to the slightly different hand position. Personally I have no problem with the fixed shifter paddles, but with the 458 rim I switch over to the rim paddles with ease. In terms of FFB I'd say the bigger rim seems to give just a hint more tiny forces, probably because it's larger and a fraction lighter. The 458 rim is fine though, and because it's smaller (28 vs. 30cm) you can react a hint faster.

I haven't noticed any difference in spin speed between the two (1.1 vs. 1.25kg weight difference, the GT rim is lighter because it doesn't have paddles).

If I had to pick just one rim, it would be the GT rim, since it's great for road cars. The 458 rim is best for race cars.
Click to expand...

damn I really wish the 458 wheel was only like 50-75 bucks, if it was it would be a no brainer and I'd get that.
but $130 for JUST a rim... is kind of high :(
I'll see how much $$ I get for christmas and go from there lol
 
Ferrari458Italia
i see I see. well I do like the smaller diameter and "rounder" wheel + ofcourse the dynamic paddles



sounds good! I'm thinking about ordering one from Amazon and if I don't think it's worth the 130 value I'll just return it :P



damn I really wish the 458 wheel was only like 50-75 bucks, if it was it would be a no brainer and I'd get that.
but $130 for JUST a rim... is kind of high :(
I'll see how much $$ I get for christmas and go from there lol
Click to expand...

Lastly, as you seem to be a big GT6 fan, I have used the hell out of the 458 wheel, probably close to 3K of the 5K miles logged in my stats since getting GT6 last Friday.

The other 2K being divided between stock GT wheel and F1 rim. I posted a picture earlier in this thread, the 458 rim and F1 rim are the same diameter.

The slightly smaller diameter of the 458 rim makes it versatile enough to use for LMPs, Karts and etc.
Will also be great for classic F1's should a future DLC ever provide them.
 
Last edited:
skazz
Thanks guys, good to know we are all hearing the same thing. I might well try loosening the 4 screws holding the plastic back together: I assume the 3 bolts holding the metal rim to the steering column should be as right as possible though?
Click to expand...

You could try that. The main rim itself is attached to the hub piece by different screws. So try loosening up just the ones on the back that hold the shell together. Then tighten them back down just enough that they don't wiggle around, but not TIGHT like you might normally. No idea if it would help, but maybe :)
 
JogoAsobi
I think you will enjoy it.

If you decide to remove the static shifters some day, Thrustmaster has this handy "official" PDF.

Click here for the link.
Click to expand...
and I had a $50 gift card on my amazon account so perfect lol.
and thanks for the link, I have a big hand and I think I will have to take it off. bookmarked.
 
skazz
Talking of the 458 rim: I've heard reports of creaking plastic with it, and was wondering how much and which noises yours makes.

My 2 week old 458 rim, despite some tightening of the 3 front bolts and the 6 rear screws, makes a sort of "click" creak noise from the plastic area in the top left..
Click to expand...
I'm having the same issue on my gte wheel, clicking is worse in the top left area, I think it's the back housing causing it but not 100% sure. I'm thinking about opening it up and putting some type of gummy seal around it. I don't really hear it when I race but It'd be nice to get rid of it.
 
Ferrari458Italia
and I had a $50 gift card on my amazon account so perfect lol.
and thanks for the link, I have a big hand and I think I will have to take it off. bookmarked.
Click to expand...
I also have large hands (6'3" tall) and I have zero problems with accidentally hitting the fixed paddles when using the 458 rim. Try it first before removing them, since if you want to use the GT rim again you will miss them :)
 
Yeah. I've got large hands. Not gigantic, but definitely above average and larger than quite a few NFL quarterbacks at least. I think early on I chopped my fingers a couple of times, but that was more because my muscle memory wasn't used to the new location. I've had zero issues once I readjusted to where the new paddles were.
 
I'm 6'6", can palm a basketball with ease, and I don't have an issue hitting the fixed paddles with the GTE wheel mounted. I agree on not removing the fixed paddles,you never know when you might want (or have to) to go back to the GT wheel. Then you would have to go to the trouble of putting the fixed paddles back. No worth the hassle of removing them,imo.
 
Re-installation of the paddle shifters is pretty simple, and not very time-consuming.

I guess its less of a big deal for me since I also have a TH8RS.

I really like the extra room when changing out the rims.

...but like cars and a whole lot of other things...

...everyone has their preferences.
 
Woot! Got my T500RS today. What feedback setting do you guys use in GT5/6, just curious? I tried 3, 5, and 10. 10 definitely didn't seem rip your arms out powerful like I've read. 6 or 7 seems like a happy medium though.

Also, I just ordered the basher break mod! So inexpensive. It's definitely worth it, right?

edit: also, I asked this before but did not get a satisfactory answer. I read on the T500 box, the wheel has onboard memory. Is it worthwhile to update the firmware via PC? Would that have any affect on GT5/6 or only for PC use.
 
Last edited:
👍^^^congrats.
I have mine set at 5, simulation. Different cars have different feedback; some strong some not that strong. And yeah, I think basher mod is great.
And yes again, I would update firmware just to make sure everything is good.
Also, dont forget it has an on-the-fly angle of rotation adjustment. Press "mode+dpad - or +" and watch it blink...1blink=270deg, 2blinks=360, 3=540, 4=900, 5=1080.
 
soap_hand
Woot! Got my T500RS today. What feedback setting do you guys use in GT5/6, just curious? I tried 3, 5, and 10. 10 definitely didn't seem rip your arms out powerful like I've read. 6 or 7 seems like a happy medium though.

Also, I just ordered the basher break mod! So inexpensive. It's definitely worth it, right?

edit: also, I asked this before but did not get a satisfactory answer. I read on the T500 box, the wheel has onboard memory. Is it worthwhile to update the firmware via PC? Would that have any affect on GT5/6 or only for PC use.
Click to expand...
Definately download the new firmware because I bought this same exact wheel and the new force feedback increased tenfold with the new upgrade both for ps3 and pc I could not believe how much better it is except its a pain to download make sure you get it right,read the walk through steps correctly or it ****ks up and ps3 doesn't recognize the wheel,took me two tries to get it right now I get my cooling fan working every time I drive as before I didn't need it strength of ff increases enough that it now needs it
 
f1russgp
Definately download the new firmware because I bought this same exact wheel and the new force feedback increased tenfold with the new upgrade both for ps3 and pc I could not believe how much better it is except its a pain to download make sure you get it right,read the walk through steps correctly or it ****ks up and ps3 doesn't recognize the wheel,took me two tries to get it right now I get my cooling fan working every time I drive as before I didn't need it strength of ff increases enough that it now needs it
Click to expand...
Also basher brake mod is bloody fantastic best $15 I've ever spent!!!!
 

Similar threads

W
Thrustmaster T300 wheelbase with Fanatec Clubsport V3 pedals?
Replies
22
Views
3K
Oshawa-Joe
Oshawa-Joe
Famine
Thrustmaster Reveals New “Hypercar” Wheel Rim for Direct Drive Bases
Replies
10
Views
3K
sasuta
sasuta
T
Drivehub Can I recognize Simagic TB-RS and Thirstmaster TH8A on PS5?
Replies
4
Views
1K
touge_meister
T
Famine
Thrustmaster Reveals New TH8S Shifter Add-On
Replies
8
Views
4K
BWK_TERROR
BWK_TERROR
L
Thrustmaster T500 rs Why cannot support on PS5 and GT7?
Replies
5
Views
8K
Famine
Famine

Latest Posts

Back