The Thrustmaster T500RS Thread

  • Thread starter TomN
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mrbasher
You could try that. The main rim itself is attached to the hub piece by different screws. So try loosening up just the ones on the back that hold the shell together. Then tighten them back down just enough that they don't wiggle around, but not TIGHT like you might normally. No idea if it would help, but maybe :)
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Well I tried various experiments with the screws. If you loosen any screws too much the plastic creak sounds get worse, so I think the cause is something different.

What I think at the moment is that the plastic element behind the metal face is subject to rotational forces, as if it isn't sitting quite flush. If you loosen one of the screws underneath the paddle shifters then it rotates top to bottom, and irrespective of how tight everything is there's a hint of play in the horizontal axis. How much is audible depends on how tight you screw the screws in the 4 back corners and therefore how much creak you hear. In the end, screwing all screws reasonably tight actually gives the least creak, and in my case the only sound left is the click from the top left corner.

I'm starting to suspect that this click might actually be associated with the D pad housing (I.e. The only cut through the metal rim) more than anything else. But I'm not ready to completely disassemble the rim in order to find out....
 
The plastic flexes on the casing. This is why I said strategically placed holes (If you could figure out where to drill them) would relieve the stress and not make it vulnerable.

Way back in this thread, I gutted the thing and put some spacers in certain places, and this reduced the play and the noise. But it didn't solve the issue by a long shot. Even with that support, it still makes some noise (although certainly less). So I'm sticking with my theory the plastic is too tightly packed together and makes noise when it flexes from the torque.

EDIT: I don't think loosening screws (which I remember trying first too) works because that just lets it flex even more. And flexing is what allows the plastic to make its noise.
 
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Get real aftermarket wheels no such issues. As for the paddles let they stay. I have bigger then average hands 20 cm from tip to where you bend the wrist never ever touched the static paddles with the F1 rim or any of my 320 or 350 mm rims. T500RS get much smoother and nicer with the bigger aftermarket rims with seemingly less internal resistance too it´s the way to go I feel :).
 
I just thought of something... I completely forgot I had even done this but I attached an aftermarket rim to the GTE hub using an adapter I made. The rim is only held on by 3 of the 6 screws in the middle of the rim. My point is, it doesn't creak and click at all like this.

So, one thing to try, though I realize you may not like this, is to remove the 3 non-essential screws from the center of the rim. I believe they are the top middle one, bottom left and bottom right. Then make sure the other 3 are tight enough. Just make sure not to go crazy and strip them.
 
soap_hand
Woot! Got my T500RS today. What feedback setting do you guys use in GT5/6, just curious? I tried 3, 5, and 10. 10 definitely didn't seem rip your arms out powerful like I've read. 6 or 7 seems like a happy medium though.

Also, I just ordered the basher break mod! So inexpensive. It's definitely worth it, right?

edit: also, I asked this before but did not get a satisfactory answer. I read on the T500 box, the wheel has onboard memory. Is it worthwhile to update the firmware via PC? Would that have any affect on GT5/6 or only for PC use.
Click to expand...

Thank you for your purchase! Hopefully you got your order in before I ran out of stock, AGAIN. (These kits have been really hard to keep in stock lately!) Don't worry though, I already ordered more bushings and they will be here shortly.

To answer your questions:

I have GT6 set on 7 and simulation steering, but I just started and may change it... Remember though, like someone said, all of the cars are different! For instance, an older, RWD car will have pretty stiff steering but a newer FWD car like a VW GTi will have much lighter steering. Literally to the point that you feel like something is wrong at first.

At no point will the wheel feel like it's trying to rip itself from your hands, not unless you are 8 years old. I think that was from a time not horribly long ago in which people kept saying that the wheel "had brute strength but lacked definition/fidelity." It is the highest power consumer wheel I've tested and I do not find it to be lacking whatsoever in "definition" or "fidelity." It's crisp, sharp AND powerful.

Overall, the wheel and GT6 feel absolutely AWESOME.
 
oqvist
Get real aftermarket wheels no such issues. As for the paddles let they stay. I have bigger then average hands 20 cm from tip to where you bend the wrist never ever touched the static paddles with the F1 rim or any of my 320 or 350 mm rims. T500RS get much smoother and nicer with the bigger aftermarket rims with seemingly less internal resistance too it´s the way to go I feel :).
Click to expand...

Yeah. When my momo ever gets hear, if might be the beginning to the end of me ever running stock wheels again.
 
Sorry for the DP. I though I was editing, and instead quoted myself:(

mrbasher
I just thought of something... I completely forgot I had even done this but I attached an aftermarket rim to the GTE hub using an adapter I made. The rim is only held on by 3 of the 6 screws in the middle of the rim. My point is, it doesn't creak and click at all like this.

So, one thing to try, though I realize you may not like this, is to remove the 3 non-essential screws from the center of the rim. I believe they are the top middle one, bottom left and bottom right. Then make sure the other 3 are tight enough. Just make sure not to go crazy and strip them.
Click to expand...

I wonder if it's just the way it's pressed against your aftermarket wheel. Because those three screws are purely cosmetic. Hard to imagine they're causing much of an issue. Although it's worth trying I guess.
 
Paul33993
Sorry for the DP. I though I was editing, and instead quoted myself:(



I wonder if it's just the way it's pressed against your aftermarket wheel. Because those three screws are purely cosmetic. Hard to imagine they're causing much of an issue. Although it's worth trying I guess.
Click to expand...

Well their function may be cosmetic, but they do pull the main plastic body of the hub against the rim. I mean, they do actually screw in there. :) I dunno, I just figured since it's so easy to test, it might be worth a look.

That said, the setup for the aftermarket rim is entirely different I guess. I mean, the only thing touching the hub part on this setup is the adapter I made from HDPE which is inherently slippery anyhow. (hadn't thought about that) :)
 
mrbasher
Well their function may be cosmetic, but they do pull the main plastic body of the hub against the rim. I mean, they do actually screw in there. :) I dunno, I just figured since it's so easy to test, it might be worth a look.

That said, the setup for the aftermarket rim is entirely different I guess. I mean, the only thing touching the hub part on this setup is the adapter I made from HDPE which is inherently slippery anyhow. (hadn't thought about that) :)
Click to expand...

Well, if nobody tests it out, I'll try it later this evening and post my results. It'd be awesome if the solution really was that simple.
 
soap_hand
Woot! Got my T500RS today. What feedback setting do you guys use in GT5/6, just curious? I tried 3, 5, and 10. 10 definitely didn't seem rip your arms out powerful like I've read. 6 or 7 seems like a happy medium though.

Also, I just ordered the basher break mod! So inexpensive. It's definitely worth it, right?

edit: also, I asked this before but did not get a satisfactory answer. I read on the T500 box, the wheel has onboard memory. Is it worthwhile to update the firmware via PC? Would that have any affect on GT5/6 or only for PC use.
Click to expand...

I thought Coxis answered it well in this post: https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/the-thrustmaster-t500rs-thread.135961/page-276#post-9074447

The firmware is saved to the memory on the wheel and is used for both PS3 and PC. There are no separate firmware versions for PC and PS3 Firmware version 40 is an important one to have as optimizes the self calibration process and increases latency to 500 Hz from 125 Hz. The latest firmware version 41 is only to add compatibility for the Ferrari 458 Challenge wheel add on, so if you don't have that add on, there is no need to update to V41.
 
Just to add: my 2 week old T500RS came in a gt5 branded box, without v. Numbers, and came with the v40 firmware installed. So a quick update to v41 was needed to get the 458GTE rim working,
 
mrbasher
I just thought of something... I completely forgot I had even done this but I attached an aftermarket rim to the GTE hub using an adapter I made. The rim is only held on by 3 of the 6 screws in the middle of the rim. My point is, it doesn't creak and click at all like this.

So, one thing to try, though I realize you may not like this, is to remove the 3 non-essential screws from the center of the rim. I believe they are the top middle one, bottom left and bottom right. Then make sure the other 3 are tight enough. Just make sure not to go crazy and strip them.
Click to expand...
Hmmm, I have also retrofitted a 320mm wheel on my gte hub and still getting that noise...I think if I can put something between the back and front pieces it might help with the noise...Im just not too keen to do it right now as it doesn't really bother me when my speakers are on, maybe one of these days.
11437696203_2051898238_o.jpg
 
/\

Yeah. I added filler material where the rounded curves are. It helps with the play and flexing (which causes the creaking), but doesn't eliminate it.

But the screw idea is still worth a go.
 
oqvist
I use the DSD adapter on my rims.
Click to expand...

Just fired up GT6 for the first time with the F1 integral rim. I realize I by this point hate it this grind but I am sure there is a case of adaptation :).

Installing my 320 mm rim now which two buttons do you feel I should map to R1 and R2? I don´t have a TH8 RS so paddles has to do shifter dutys. I suppose one need to be handbrake.

Also do people recommend to update the last firmware? Does it make a difference for the better or for the worse?
 
Been meaning to pick up one of those kits for my brake pedal for a while now. lol Maybe after the holidays.
 
Dean
How fast does your fan turn on?
Click to expand...

About 30 minutes, but I have a new V.5 wheel, this one also takes longer to turn off.
I can tell by the air flow that this fan or the way its installed pushes more air than my previous wheel's fan did...
...and I had installed the replacement fan they sent to me in the altered location they specified.

They replaced my wheel about 1 month ago because one of the center screws snapped.
This wheel also seems to make much less mechanical noise when calibrating.
...and no lump in the belt, super smooth, very happy with it.
 
JogoAsobi
About 30 minutes, but I have a new V.5 wheel, this one also takes longer to turn off.
I can tell by the air flow that this fan or the way its installed pushes more air than my previous wheel's fan did...
...and I had installed the replacement fan they sent to me in the altered location they specified.

They replaced my wheel about 1 month ago because one of the center screws snapped.
This wheel also seems to make much less mechanical noise when calibrating.
...and no lump in the belt, super smooth, very happy with it.
Click to expand...
I think mine turns on after around 10 minutes at 5 - I've yet to test it though. It at least doesn't take very long at 1 with karts. Do you know if it could be because mine's a "stock" V1?
 
Dean
I think mine turns on after around 10 minutes at 5 - I've yet to test it though. It at least doesn't take very long at 1 with karts. Could it be because mine's a "stock" V1?
Click to expand...

My V.1 took at least 15 to 20 min to kick in when I did Karts/F1/X10s in GT5.
I was also running the latest version of firmware on it.
 
skazz
in the end, screwing all screws reasonably tight actually gives the least creak, and in my case the only sound left is the click from the top left corner.
Click to expand...

Actually... I think MrBasher's idea of loosening the 4 rear screws and tightening them only gently while tightening the 3 bolts and 2 screws below the shifter paddles as much as possible has helped. I still can make the rim click when I press on the plastic in the top left corner, but there seems to be almost no creaking or clicking while racing now. It's feasible that the plastic is no longer being put under as much strain through normal wheel use.....

As a result I enjoyed the 458GTE rim a lot more, due to more confidence in it's sturdiness :)
 
Simmpa
I wonder one thing, wich kind of wheels fit on the sam maxwell hub. Does this Momo 78 work? There are two sizes: 330mm and 350mm

http://rallyimport.jetshop.se/momo-model-78-p-247-c-192.aspx

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/the-thrustmaster-t500rs-thread.135961/page-209#post-7693254
Click to expand...

Sam Maxwell uses a custom hub from Derek Speare. Basically any 70mm momo style rim works. Easiest way to identify momo compatible rims are the holes are drilled at 12, 2, 4, 6, 8, and 10 o'clock.

And yes, that wheel definitely uses the standard momo style mount.
 
FYI GT6 patch 1.02 fixed RA Menu is now assignable in wheel options menu (confirmed)

now we still need a fix for R1 and L1 in menu screens

PS if you are in the UK, Amazon has a great deal for the add on Ferrari 458 GTE rim @ £58 :cheers: - at that price I couldn't resist so ordered one
 
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