The Thrustmaster T500RS Thread

  • Thread starter TomN
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Depends on the OS. But in Windows 8(or 8.1) if you go to control panel, devices and printers, you can then right click the picture of the T500RS and select the top option (game controller settings) and from that menu you can access the control panel of the T500RS and set degrees of rotation and forces.

Forgot to say that you already have the software, since the application to upgrade firmware is also the drivers.
 
Thought I would share some pedal faces I got for my T500 pedals that I hope to use with the TX wheel I have pre ordered...

Here's the item on Amazon:
Screenshot_2013-10-31-01-39-47.png

And how they look on the T500 pedals:
20131031_002614.jpg

Really pleased with them. The hole patterns almost perfectly matched. I did need to bore out the holes I wanted to use with a dill but just a little bit to fit right but boring and installation took 5min and I think they are great looking for $13.23 shipped... also all of the pedal faces are larger than the stock T500 faces which I like.
Excellent mod I will try this as well great idea
 
Can someone explain why the brake doesn't calibrate correctly for me when I install the realistic brake mod? I installed the brake mod as per the manual with the spring on the lower wall, which gives an ok resistance vs. travel for my tastes right now. However, there is significantly lower travel and because of this the software is only reading as if I'm pressing 40% down on the pedal. I've tried holding the pedal for a few seconds, both in the software and in game (pCARS and the rFactor 2 demo) and it reads the same 40% there. I was planning on buying the Basher mod but if it's something wrong with the pedals I'll wait on that.

edit:

and one more question: when I set the steering lock with the control panel open, twisting the steering wheel will actually hit that physical lock where the wheel really resists. Now, when I close the control panel and am just in Windows or a game, it will actually be able to spin all the way through the 1080 degrees. Is this normal?

To clarify, the game (pCARS in this instance) is only seeing it use 540 degrees, so it's obeying the limit, but it's just not hitting the physical barrier where the belts try to stop it.
 
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Hey guys,

I've got a couple of questions. Two days ago my T500RS arrived (GT6 package). I installed the latest firmware and everything seemed to be ok. I played yesterday and it was fine with the latest firmware (v41). My little brother played a little today's morning. However when I started GT6 I realized the wheel doesn't center.

1. The wheel doesn't center with normal calibration mode. If I try slow calibration mode it centers correctly. But not normal calibration mode. The wheel has only two days and it was working fine yesterday. Should I worry and send it back? (Damn it I spent a whole year saving for this). The wheel doesn't go full to the left with normal calibration mode (thus the center is slightly to the right after configuration), but if i push it with my fingers during calibration it will calibrate correctly to the center. I read in another forum that this could be caused by a broken gear?! thus my worrying.

2. Also upon further inspection I discovered all pedals but the brake (maybe because I have the real brake mod installed and can't notice) have a dead spot at the end. It is a small amount but it's enough for me to reproduce it with my foot. If I press the pedal to the maximum then I can release it a small amount that the software doesn't detect. Should I worry about this too?

Thanks :)

Edit: Grammar

mate, where did you get your GT6-branded T500RS? Is it a V4, V5 or the new versionless revision? I'm looking for a seller willing to ship it to Brazil, and I'd like to get the new GT6 box...
 
mate, where did you get your GT6-branded T500RS? Is it a V4, V5 or the new versionless revision? I'm looking for a seller willing to ship it to Brazil, and I'd like to get the new GT6 box...

Lol, flyingcheese, great PSN...👍 👍
I miss things like Pão de Queijo, hard to find here in the USA SW desert.

Hopefully Divinus can answer your questions.

I haven't seen the GT6-branded T500 posted on any of the online USA retailers yet.
Thrustmaster replaced my wheel last month with a V.5 delivered in a non-retail vanilla-box.

If you do locate who is selling them and by chance they don't ship direct to Brazil...
...there is a site called VIAddress that acts as a go-between sellers and International buyers.

But no doubt you will have pay through the nose for the service, not to mention Brazil customs.
 
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Can someone explain why the brake doesn't calibrate correctly for me when I install the realistic brake mod? I installed the brake mod as per the manual with the spring on the lower wall, which gives an ok resistance vs. travel for my tastes right now. However, there is significantly lower travel and because of this the software is only reading as if I'm pressing 40% down on the pedal. I've tried holding the pedal for a few seconds, both in the software and in game (pCARS and the rFactor 2 demo) and it reads the same 40% there. I was planning on buying the Basher mod but if it's something wrong with the pedals I'll wait on that.

edit:

and one more question: when I set the steering lock with the control panel open, twisting the steering wheel will actually hit that physical lock where the wheel really resists. Now, when I close the control panel and am just in Windows or a game, it will actually be able to spin all the way through the 1080 degrees. Is this normal?

To clarify, the game (pCARS in this instance) is only seeing it use 540 degrees, so it's obeying the limit, but it's just not hitting the physical barrier where the belts try to stop it.
If I understand what you're saying correctly - that it's possible to turn past the specified lock, though after that, the wheel becomes harder to turn, - then yes, that should be normal.
 
Lol, flyingcheese, great PSN...👍 👍
I miss things like Pão de Queijo, hard to find here in the USA SW desert.

Hopefully Divinus can answer your questions.

I haven't seen the GT6-branded T500 posted on any of the online USA retailers yet.
Thrustmaster replaced my wheel last month with a V.5 delivered in a non-retail vanilla-box.

If you do locate who is selling them and by chance they don't ship direct to Brazil...
...there is a site called VIAddress that acts as a go-between sellers and International buyers.

But no doubt you will have pay through the nose for the service, not to mention Brazil customs.

This was my nickname from junior high, when I played GK for the school team. As I come from the state that produces almost all of the cheese in the country (and actually invented the Pão de Queijo), Minas Gerais, my friends used to call me Queijo Voador. I thought that was a good screen name and kept it ever since. Add me on PSN so we can race!

Does the V.5 have the new fan (the one blowing directly to the dissipator fins) already? And are the pedals torsional or compressional springs?

Using these services to redirect me the wheel might not be a good idea, solely due to the price. Last thing I tried to import with those people, the shipping charges alone (not including customs, and the customs tax are also charged over shipping and it's 60%) were over 300USD, so I'm better off importing straight from Amazon (surprinsigly cheap DHL shipping and pre-paid taxes, therefore no surprises).

Btw, I spent some time in Houston and West Texas, I could find the Pão de Queijo baking mix in almost any latin supermarkets, but I dunno if you'd consider that SW USA...
 
Is it normal for their to be a dead zone on the pedals? When I press very slightly on the brake pedal it doesn't register as movement in GT6. Is this a software issue or hardware? Any way to adjust dead zone value in GT by any chance?
 
This was my nickname from junior high, when I played GK for the school team. As I come from the state that produces almost all of the cheese in the country (and actually invented the Pão de Queijo), Minas Gerais, my friends used to call me Queijo Voador. I thought that was a good screen name and kept it ever since. Add me on PSN so we can race!

Does the V.5 have the new fan (the one blowing directly to the dissipator fins) already? And are the pedals torsional or compressional springs?

Using these services to redirect me the wheel might not be a good idea, solely due to the price. Last thing I tried to import with those people, the shipping charges alone (not including customs, and the customs tax are also charged over shipping and it's 60%) were over 300USD, so I'm better off importing straight from Amazon (surprinsigly cheap DHL shipping and pre-paid taxes, therefore no surprises).

Btw, I spent some time in Houston and West Texas, I could find the Pão de Queijo baking mix in almost any latin supermarkets, but I dunno if you'd consider that SW USA...

They only replaced my wheel, the original set was V.1, but the pedals came equipped with compression springs.

The fan: I have not had reason yet to open the wheel, so I cannot answer your fan question with 100% accuracy...
...but Thrustmaster had sent me a replacement fan for my old V.1 that changed the position to blow directly
onto the dissipator fans. The new V.5's fan seems to blow much more air than my V.1 did with replacement fan.

Good to know about VIAddress, I have not used them, I will pass the word on to friends in Brazil.
I used to assist friends in Brazil who wanted Bavarian-designed/Shenzen-manufactured goods...
...because that company does not ship directly to Brazil, so I also know all about Brazil customs fees.

Will send an FR next time back on PS3, good luck with your GT6-branded T500 quest.
Yes, Minas and Queijo go hand-in-hand, like Wisconsin here, former RJ resident me forgot about that.
Good idea about getting the mix in Latin Supermarkets, we have many of them here.
Used to be located in Los Angeles and some markets there carry Brazilian goods.
 
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If I understand what you're saying correctly - that it's possible to turn past the specified lock, though after that, the wheel becomes harder to turn, - then yes, that should be normal.

Nope, it's not harder to turn in the game, only if I'm in the control panel. Say I have it set to 180 degrees: in the control panel it'll hit the lock if I turn the wheel 90 degrees to the left or right, but as soon as I close the control panel it "unlocks" but still keeps the 180 degree restriction in terms of what a game will see.
 
I'm wondering: If you set the rotation angle to be less than standard (1080 degrees), how does that affect the FFB? Is it affected at all? I mean, is the FFB at say 270 degrees different than 1080? I suppose it will feel less than a real wheel at such low degree.
 
Hello guys, I broke my torsion spring under the gas pedal for the second time. Do You know where I can buy a spring similar, identical in fact, provide by trustmaster.
One year ago they sent me a new set of spring, but before calling them, I would like to see if it is possible to buy it by myself.

Thanks
 
Here's a few videos of the possible "problems" I was describing earlier. Apologies for the lighting and the gum chewing, didn't think I was being that loud.




As it turns out, I actually do hit a bit of a physical lock ingame (like in pCARS), but it's nowhere near as strong as it is in the control panel. Also noticed that it seems the wheel locks ever so slightly more to the left than to the right.
 
Apologies, assuming spam filter snagged it. :(

However I'm aware now and will get you a Big Brake pedal. :)



Thank you Dave.

A couple of years ago, my email (ISP) provider was blocking mail from GTP forums for a long time. After SBC fixed it for a short time, it started again, so I had to switch those to my gmail account. :(

I had sent you a PM many moons ago about a Double Wide pedal that would span across and mount to the brake & clutch levers. Any thoughts on this?
 
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Hey guy's

I was wondering if I could seek some advice with regards to the paddle shifters on my T500. Every so often one of the paddles will start playing up, by that I mean the switch doesn't seem to register every gear change I make.

Last time it got pretty bad and I had to open the wheel up and adjust the cotton stuff inside the springs which activate the switches. Think it was a quick fix I found somewhere on this thread, which worked for awhile.

But I keep getting this problem and would really like a more permanent solution, so was really wondering what exactly are my options?

The static paddles are also a bit of an issue for me as well. Is there anyway way I can hit two birds with one stone, for example would having the F1 rim solve this?.............. Or would this be running off the same switches?

Do I really need to replace these switches? The only replacement ones I could see where from Bodin, which where out of stock and I'm not even sure they/he delivers to UK. Is there any other options?

PS I'm not that experienced in fixing these kinds of things, so I rather not have to buy a soldering kit or anything if you catch my drift :lol:.
 
Have you contacted Thrustmaster? Even if you are out of warranty, I'm sure Thrustmaster would still send the parts for a fee.
 
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Hey guy's
...............
:lol:.
If you're in-warranty I would contact Thrustmaster.
If you're out-of-warranty Bodin is probably your only alternative.
If you just don't want repeat-recurrence of same issue, Bodin again.
I am pretty sure he ships to UK, you could always PM/email an inquiry to him.

They run off separate switches, I removed my static paddle shifters after getting the F1, 458 rims.

Replacement is a snap if you use the Official Thrustmaster Fixed Paddle Shifter Removal Guide PDF.
 
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Here's a few videos of the possible "problems" I was describing earlier. Apologies for the lighting and the gum chewing, didn't think I was being that loud.




As it turns out, I actually do hit a bit of a physical lock ingame (like in pCARS), but it's nowhere near as strong as it is in the control panel. Also noticed that it seems the wheel locks ever so slightly more to the left than to the right.


I'm thinking you have the foam and spring 180 degrees out.

Basically you have the spring down low. If you turn the foam 180 and see how that works.

image.jpg
 
So, taking out the foam's how you change the "realistic" brake mods "modes"? I've been trying to figure that out for quite a while, but I didn't realise it was that simple. :lol:
 
If you're in-warranty I would contact Thrustmaster.
If you're out-of-warranty Bodin is probably your only alternative.
If you just don't want repeat-recurrence of same issue, Bodin again.
I am pretty sure he ships to UK, you could always PM/email an inquiry to him.

Replacement is a snap if you use the Official Thrustmaster Fixed Paddle Shifter Removal Guide PDF.


How long does warranty normally last? I've had it since before September 2012. The only reason I know that is because I had to send it to Thrustmaster that month to get repaired after it died on me not long after I bought it.

Why do I get the feeling your going to say a year :lol:.

Well I just put it back together again, getting quite quick at fixing it :P. Hopefully it will give me a bit of time to consider the options option :yuck:. Thanks for the advice 👍
 
I'm thinking you have the foam and spring 180 degrees out.

Basically you have the spring down low. If you turn the foam 180 and see how that works.

View attachment 91921

Yeah, I think it works fine that way, but the manual states that you can put it either way (on page 15/20 of the english manual), with the spring on top providing 30.8 lbs of resistance and on bottom providing 35.2 lbs of resistance. What worries me is that the software isn't reading that as my full throw so I don't think I could use the basher mod because that does the same thing (reduces the throw of the pedal).
 
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