The Thrustmaster T500RS Thread
- Thread starter TomN
- 9,924 comments
- 2,169,201 views
- 9,884
- Carthage, TN
- race_emhard
After just 2 days after I ordered, my Ferrari 458 wheel will be arriving today, will give my thoughts on it tomorrow.
Just 2 days to get from California to Nashville and it arrived there almost an hour and a half ago.
Rakuten FTW!
Just 2 days to get from California to Nashville and it arrived there almost an hour and a half ago.
Rakuten FTW!
- 1,358
- Redmond, WA
- mrbasherman
Gently with a standard (flat) screwdriver. 
Just pry it off slowly. Pay attention to where the teeth are before you take it off so you can put it back on the same way. Take a picture or something first. (So the pot is at the same angle after it's back on)
Be careful, but it will come off Imagine that's a screwdriver in the pic you posted. Move it to the right so it's between the gear and the metal. Pry.
Just pry it off slowly. Pay attention to where the teeth are before you take it off so you can put it back on the same way. Take a picture or something first. (So the pot is at the same angle after it's back on)Be careful, but it will come off
Imagine that's a screwdriver in the pic you posted. Move it to the right so it's between the gear and the metal. Pry.
- 6,838
- Europe
- GTP_Slim
- PzR Slim
Hey guys, so I own a Fanatec CSR Elite and was very happy with it. Along came Xbone and my shiny Fanatec doesn't work on it. So ordered the new TX which is a great little wheel apart from the pedals. So I had to switch between wheels and pedals on my rig if i wanted to swap from Xbone, PS3 or PC. The solution? Buy a T500RS as well!! That way I can use the same pedals on both wheels and only need to swap the TX base for the T500RS base when changing systems. My wife just called to say it turned up at home, so my question is, anything I need to know about the T500RS and are there any 'must do mods' to the wheel or pedals?
- 21
- Brentwood
- Belamiejus
- at that price I couldn't resist so ordered one
- 1,358
- Redmond, WA
- mrbasherman
Thanks Paul I agree of course!
I could be insane and probably am but... I think the brake mod feels even better in GT6. I don't know exactly why, the on screen indicator moves in what seems to be the exact same way. Maybe it's just that the physics are better. However, I drove in GT5 with no ABS and am doing the same in GT6... The difference seems very real to me, somehow it's more "controllable..."
A word of caution regarding the TX and T500RS pedals: Shame on me for not testing this myself yet to confirm. However, while at a friends house fiddling with his TX wheel and T500RS pedals on Forza 5, we noticed that the brake wasn't engaging all the way. He had the stock Thrustmaster brake mod in there, so I had him remove it, at which point the pedal had full travel. It also then fully engaged... We did not test my brake mod in there, as I didn't have one with me. (not even one to give my friend, stock is going out so quick...) However, it seems that the firmware on the TX is not configured to recognize the "short calibration" necessary when using a brake mod on the T500RS pedals. I will confirm this soon, likely tonight and update my site and post back here.
I believe the TX will be receiving a firmware update when their 3 pedal setup is released, along with the new shifter no doubt. The 3 pedal setup likely short calibrates, based on what I have seen. This will then likely make the mod work. (if it isn't now...)
I do have a little um, "toy" that I created that would overcome this, among other cool functions. However, it's not ready for release. Even worse... My cat managed to pee on the breadboard it's on!!!
Little butthead. Well, he's not little...
I agree of course!I could be insane and probably am but... I think the brake mod feels even better in GT6. I don't know exactly why, the on screen indicator moves in what seems to be the exact same way. Maybe it's just that the physics are better. However, I drove in GT5 with no ABS and am doing the same in GT6... The difference seems very real to me, somehow it's more "controllable..."
A word of caution regarding the TX and T500RS pedals: Shame on me for not testing this myself yet to confirm. However, while at a friends house fiddling with his TX wheel and T500RS pedals on Forza 5, we noticed that the brake wasn't engaging all the way. He had the stock Thrustmaster brake mod in there, so I had him remove it, at which point the pedal had full travel. It also then fully engaged... We did not test my brake mod in there, as I didn't have one with me. (not even one to give my friend, stock is going out so quick...) However, it seems that the firmware on the TX is not configured to recognize the "short calibration" necessary when using a brake mod on the T500RS pedals. I will confirm this soon, likely tonight and update my site and post back here.
I believe the TX will be receiving a firmware update when their 3 pedal setup is released, along with the new shifter no doubt. The 3 pedal setup likely short calibrates, based on what I have seen. This will then likely make the mod work. (if it isn't now...)
I do have a little um, "toy" that I created that would overcome this, among other cool functions. However, it's not ready for release. Even worse... My cat managed to pee on the breadboard it's on!!!
Little butthead. Well, he's not little... 
- 1,358
- Redmond, WA
- mrbasherman
what kind of friend are you?go on Scrooge it's xmas
LOL, well... If I'd had one to give, I would have! You guys would never believe how many of these things I've sold... I actually had to raise the price because I went back and recalculated, it turned out I was actually losing money on them! The prices went up $4 for US and $4 for international, now at least I make a couple bucks each for my time. I actually finally caved and purchased one of those thermal postage printers like you see at a UPS store since shipping was eating up all my free time.
Ferrari458Italia
Premium
- 1,219
- Tennessee
- FerrariThugs
- xbox is a joke
yeah so just got my 458 Challenge wheel and it really is amazing! my fingers get in the way sometimes with the stock paddles so I think I will remove them tomorrow since I can't see myself taking them off anytime soon! 👍
- 9,884
- Carthage, TN
- race_emhard
Yeah... About that....
Eforcity (the seller) had sent me a frickin trimmer instead of my wheel!
Got in touch with them, hopefully I can send it back and get my wheel sent to me or I have become the owner of a $108 Panasonic trimmer.
- 210
- Goiânia
- QueijoVoador
did anyone see that the T500RS would be in stock at Amazon.com for USD520 on Dec 27th? When I tried to add it to my cart it said it was not available from that seller anymore. Did they announce something they weren't quite ready for or were they out of stock before it even arrived? (Hoping to see the new GT6 refresh!)
Ferrari458Italia
Premium
- 1,219
- Tennessee
- FerrariThugs
- xbox is a joke
though I think I do need to get used to the smaller rim size haha
Yeah... About that....
Eforcity (the seller) had sent me a frickin trimmer instead of my wheel!
Got in touch with them, hopefully I can send it back and get my wheel sent to me or I have become the owner of a $108 Panasonic trimmer.
lol so sorry to hear bro, but that's kind of funny
JogoAsobi
Premium
- 2,578
Ferrari458...
As for the size, speaking for myself (barely wiggle into an XL USA Glove size)...
...I no longer noticed it after a couple of days, of course that depends on the driver.
Keep an eye on these screws, I and a couple of other people I know
had to tighten these down after using the wheel for a few hours.
Never had to re-tighten them after that in my case.
Be-careful and only tighten down the ones that are specified.
The others are for cosmetic purposes and do not really secure the rim.
This was originally posted by GTP member Firecracker back on page 255 of this thread.
As for the size, speaking for myself (barely wiggle into an XL USA Glove size)...
...I no longer noticed it after a couple of days, of course that depends on the driver.
Keep an eye on these screws, I and a couple of other people I know
had to tighten these down after using the wheel for a few hours.
Never had to re-tighten them after that in my case.
Be-careful and only tighten down the ones that are specified.
The others are for cosmetic purposes and do not really secure the rim.
This was originally posted by GTP member Firecracker back on page 255 of this thread.
- 3,978
- Netherlands
- skazz-race
- skazzracer
Just to add to that, on the back of the 458GTE rim are 2 cross head screws which attach the plastic back to the metal frame (behind the two shifter paddles), plus 4 cross head screws which hold the plastic back together.
I got rid of almost all of the creaking in mine by loosening the 4 screws then tightening the front bolts and back two screws, then very very lightly tightening the 4 plastic screws. It seems to have done the trick.
I got rid of almost all of the creaking in mine by loosening the 4 screws then tightening the front bolts and back two screws, then very very lightly tightening the 4 plastic screws. It seems to have done the trick.
Hello and thanks in advance,
Anyone have problems with the H-shifter mode playing GT6? I usually drive each car with the shifting gears it has in reality.
For example, Ferrari 458 Italia '09 with the shifter paddels, Citröen C4 WRC '08 with sequential shifter and a Chevrolet Corvette Z06 (C6) '06 with the H-shifter.
The problem I have a couple of days ago is that some cars can't be handled with the H-shifter mode of the TH8 RS because the shifter does not respond; I move the lever to the first, second, third, any gear, but the car continues in the same gear. But it works with the paddles. I found this bug driving the Sauber Mercedes C9 Race Car '89, Mercedes-Benz 190 E 2.5-16 Evolution II Touring Car '92, Ford GT40 Race Car '69, BMW 507 '57, etc. But it works perfectly with the Lotus Elise Race Car '96, Caterham Seven Fireblade '02, Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VI GSR T.M. Edition Special Color Pack, and many others.
What do you think? Is it a game's issue or my TH8 is damaged?
Thanks a lot.
Edit: I already have had an answer in the TH8 RS Shifter Thread. Thanks!
Anyone have problems with the H-shifter mode playing GT6? I usually drive each car with the shifting gears it has in reality.
For example, Ferrari 458 Italia '09 with the shifter paddels, Citröen C4 WRC '08 with sequential shifter and a Chevrolet Corvette Z06 (C6) '06 with the H-shifter.
The problem I have a couple of days ago is that some cars can't be handled with the H-shifter mode of the TH8 RS because the shifter does not respond; I move the lever to the first, second, third, any gear, but the car continues in the same gear. But it works with the paddles. I found this bug driving the Sauber Mercedes C9 Race Car '89, Mercedes-Benz 190 E 2.5-16 Evolution II Touring Car '92, Ford GT40 Race Car '69, BMW 507 '57, etc. But it works perfectly with the Lotus Elise Race Car '96, Caterham Seven Fireblade '02, Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VI GSR T.M. Edition Special Color Pack, and many others.
What do you think? Is it a game's issue or my TH8 is damaged?
Thanks a lot.
Edit: I already have had an answer in the TH8 RS Shifter Thread. Thanks!
Last edited:
- 505
Does anyone know the size of the big hole on a standard 70mm mounting system? Is it 50mm?
I've got this wheel coming some time (2-4 weeks):
But it's gonna look pretty rough with nothing in the middle. I've found a place that sells some nice, white, Momo stickers. But I'm just wondering if anyone knows what the measurements on the inside hole are? Thanks.
I've got this wheel coming some time (2-4 weeks):
But it's gonna look pretty rough with nothing in the middle. I've found a place that sells some nice, white, Momo stickers. But I'm just wondering if anyone knows what the measurements on the inside hole are? Thanks.
- 373
- Porto
- Divinusable
Hey guys,
I've got a couple of questions. Two days ago my T500RS arrived (GT6 package). I installed the latest firmware and everything seemed to be ok. I played yesterday and it was fine with the latest firmware (v41). My little brother played a little today's morning. However when I started GT6 I realized the wheel doesn't center.
1. The wheel doesn't center with normal calibration mode. If I try slow calibration mode it centers correctly. But not normal calibration mode. The wheel has only two days and it was working fine yesterday. Should I worry and send it back? (Damn it I spent a whole year saving for this). The wheel doesn't go full to the left with normal calibration mode (thus the center is slightly to the right after configuration), but if i push it with my fingers during calibration it will calibrate correctly to the center. I read in another forum that this could be caused by a broken gear?! thus my worrying.
2. Also upon further inspection I discovered all pedals but the brake (maybe because I have the real brake mod installed and can't notice) have a dead spot at the end. It is a small amount but it's enough for me to reproduce it with my foot. If I press the pedal to the maximum then I can release it a small amount that the software doesn't detect. Should I worry about this too?
Thanks
Edit: Grammar
I've got a couple of questions. Two days ago my T500RS arrived (GT6 package). I installed the latest firmware and everything seemed to be ok. I played yesterday and it was fine with the latest firmware (v41). My little brother played a little today's morning. However when I started GT6 I realized the wheel doesn't center.
1. The wheel doesn't center with normal calibration mode. If I try slow calibration mode it centers correctly. But not normal calibration mode. The wheel has only two days and it was working fine yesterday. Should I worry and send it back? (Damn it I spent a whole year saving for this). The wheel doesn't go full to the left with normal calibration mode (thus the center is slightly to the right after configuration), but if i push it with my fingers during calibration it will calibrate correctly to the center. I read in another forum that this could be caused by a broken gear?! thus my worrying.
2. Also upon further inspection I discovered all pedals but the brake (maybe because I have the real brake mod installed and can't notice) have a dead spot at the end. It is a small amount but it's enough for me to reproduce it with my foot. If I press the pedal to the maximum then I can release it a small amount that the software doesn't detect. Should I worry about this too?
Thanks
Edit: Grammar
- 21
- Brentwood
- Belamiejus
Mine few months t500 calibrates it self slightly to the right is there the way to fix this..?
rankings18
Premium
- 242
- California
- rankings18b
- 22
- United States
@ Divinus, @ Belamiejus, I would do this from the pdf posted by rankings18. I had to do this when I first received my wheel. I haven't had to do it since and that was 2 1/2 years ago.
Reconfiguring the racing wheel's center value
(If the racing wheel is slightly off-center in the Control Panel)
- If using a PS3, we recommend performing this procedure in the PS3 system's menu (not in a game).
- If using a PC, we recommend performing this procedure via the Windows® Desktop (not in a game), after exiting the Control Panel.
1) Connect the racing wheel's USB cable (on PS3 or on PC), then wait for the auto-calibration phase to end.
2) Turn the racing wheel fully to the left (until you reach the stop).
3) Turn the racing wheel fully to the right (until you reach the stop).
4) Make sure that your racing wheel is perfectly centered ; while holding it in this position, press the START, SELECT & MODE buttons simultaneously (SE, ST & MODE buttons on the GT wheel; BO, WET & MODE buttons on the F1 wheel).
5) The racing wheel's LED briefly changes colour, then reverts to its initial colour.
This means that the wheel's center value has been reset and automatically saved to the device's internal memory (you do not need to repeat the procedure every time you connect the racing wheel); this applies to all of the T500's wheels (GT, F1, etc.).
Reconfiguring the racing wheel's center value
(If the racing wheel is slightly off-center in the Control Panel)
- If using a PS3, we recommend performing this procedure in the PS3 system's menu (not in a game).
- If using a PC, we recommend performing this procedure via the Windows® Desktop (not in a game), after exiting the Control Panel.
1) Connect the racing wheel's USB cable (on PS3 or on PC), then wait for the auto-calibration phase to end.
2) Turn the racing wheel fully to the left (until you reach the stop).
3) Turn the racing wheel fully to the right (until you reach the stop).
4) Make sure that your racing wheel is perfectly centered ; while holding it in this position, press the START, SELECT & MODE buttons simultaneously (SE, ST & MODE buttons on the GT wheel; BO, WET & MODE buttons on the F1 wheel).
5) The racing wheel's LED briefly changes colour, then reverts to its initial colour.
This means that the wheel's center value has been reset and automatically saved to the device's internal memory (you do not need to repeat the procedure every time you connect the racing wheel); this applies to all of the T500's wheels (GT, F1, etc.).
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