The Thrustmaster T500RS Thread

  • Thread starter TomN
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To me it seems the only place it really seems like TM actually "cost cut" the TX was the pedals and rim, which are both re-uses from earlier wheels. I can see why they did too, it makes sense to try to get into that "$300 - $400" neighborhood rather than the premium "$500+" one the T500RS is in... and then make up the difference to those who want it with add-ons. I just got a TX 458 rim off of another forum to play with on my T500RS, and that thing isn't bad at all... BUT as a scaled down 458 Italia steering wheel replica it looks FAR too toy like. I think had TM included the GTE wheel it would have made a much better impression. Of course, they could have dropped the Ferrari tie in altogether and charged $100 less too.

I'm just a little surly, don't mind me. Last night I was playing around with my backup T500 (latest model) I got from Microcenter and noticed the little screw in the steering column didn't go in all the way. So I screwed it in further and was getting plastic shavings coming out. So I unscrewed it and saw I was screwing into the threading on the wheel column. So I tried putting on the wheel another ten times before I realized I didn't matter how much I spun the thread locker, it only started in one place. The morons drilled that hole in the wrong freaking place on the spinner column. Probably not an issue for a GT or GTE rim, but for an aftermarket adapter, you'd need that screw clamping down on the column to prevent the wheel from coming loose.

So when I finally do get around to using it, I'll have to send it into warranty or drill it in the right freaking spot. I feel like I'm constantly needing to do things to avoid warranty service, but these things in turn all void my warranty. So I'm just a little depressed how much cheap plastic is in this thing, and all the issues it's caused me over time.

Still love this wheel. And think it's best in class for the money, but boy, if there's somewhere they can cut costs, they find it. Thank goodness they lost their mind with that beautiful motor.

EDIT: Or maybe that screw doesn't go flush down on my first T500 base either (when using stock wheels). But with the DSD adapter, that screw sits at around 12:00 o'clock on the column and screws into the flat portion (so it screws all the way down). I'm not going to take my Momo off and recheck the GT wheel (to see if the screw is at 12:00 o'clock or at 4:30 like on the second). Because I had a bear of a time getting the DSD adapter to fit snugly onto my base and it seems to finally be locked in and doesn't unscrew itself. So I don't want to take it off to experiment.

Maybe this is why my DSD adapter struggles with keeping locked? When your guys wheel is auto-calibrated and centered, where is that screw on the wheel column? Is it at 12:00 o'clock (6 o'clock would also be at the flat part inside)? Or is it at something like 4:30 (so the screw is then going into the threaded portion). Maybe this is why I have issues keeping locked? Maybe it does need to screw into the threading. So confused now.

Like I said, I could try it myself by screwing my GTE wheel onto my main T500, but I so don't want to have to remount that wheel if it turns out the screw is at 12:00 o'clock on that base too. Either it's my DSD adapter that's the problem, or my second T500 had the screw drilled in the wrong place. I'm more open minded than when I started this post. LOL. Typing it made me question some things.

FINAL EDIT: Sorry guys, for this long post. So I looked at the GTE wheel and I can clearly see some screw scuffs at around 6:00 o'clock on my GTE rim. So it was in fact screwing into the flat part on my first wheel. Although at 6:00 o'clock instead of the 12:00 o'clock I get on the DSD adapter. So weird. And random. 4:30 seems like a terrible spot since it goes into the threading and can't go flush like at 6 or 12. On the other hand, it would definitely prevent any unthreading from happening (like how my DSD adapter likes to unscrew itself).
This post really is a disaster. Avoid reading unless you're really bored. Just deleted the following paragraphs because there's only one way to mount the wheel onto a base. Otherwise it won't auto calibrate centered. Gonna stop while I'm behind now. 4:30 is obviously wrong though.
 
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I haven´t had to much trouble with my DSD adapters. There was something wrong with my second on that one the adjustment bolt didn´t go to the flat top or bottom part but you instead fix it towards the grooves at a 50 degree angle like yours I suppose. It did hold it in place though maybe because the adjustment bolt went down on the hill part of the groove so to speak but the grooves got a bit destroyed and not sure how many reconnects it would survive. As for holding it in place your wheel become loose or do you feel the ffb is a bit sloppy? I use prolongued allen keys and I really have to lie on them to get that perfectly solid connection.

Normally the adapter should bolt on on the flat part near 0 or a 360 degree position with the wheel centered where it´s flat and not the grooves. You don´t need to tighten the bolt much at all in fact very easy to over tighten. Perhaps don´t do to much harm to the plastics but still.
 
@LogiForce i have noticed that during racing the T500 standard GT wheel my thumps are on the wheel itself rather than inside the rim. Purely because it is faster when i have to make a fast correction to keep the car on track. At the moment the only thing that realy bothers me is the standard wheel material: rubber. I need leather or gloves.

I hate the rubber as well. I end up actually scortching my hands on several occasions, leaving red burner marks on my hands.
I do own some nice Sparco karting gloves (as you can see in the big glove thread here), but I think you will have more fun with a nice leather aftermarket rim.

I am still eye balling this wheel as I still have a spare DSD adapter. Also you can buy several slim quick releases and just the one adapter, but of course it is up to you.

Anyway, I was looking at this Momo mod 26 (leather version) wheel. It is available in the same size as used in the old Formula 1 cars... like the Lotus 49 up till the turbo monster.

So maybe something for you to drive normal and formula cara with?

MOD_26.jpg
 
Actually i do not give a **** about the plastic. Plastic is cheap but strong and durable. Fanatec CSW is for the looks. Im very sure that if i race with the Fanatec like i did with the TM this afternoon, my god, the Fanatec would have died 5 times.
I like the Fanatec. It looks bloody sharp and...that's about it. Using the T500 and thinking about the Fanatec using less engine power and a heavy BMW wheel, im very happy with my plastic toy.
There is one thing TM and Fanatec need to learn: making a decent(!) quick release like the slimline. Just put it standard on those wheels and the market is yours.
@Paul33993 : pretty crap what is happening to your wheel.Hopefully you will solve the problem!
 
I hate the rubber as well. I end up actually scortching my hands on several occasions, leaving red burner marks on my hands.
I do own some nice Sparco karting gloves (as you can see in the big glove thread here), but I think you will have more fun with a nice leather aftermarket rim.

I am still eye balling this wheel as I still have a spare DSD adapter. Also you can buy several slim quick releases and just the one adapter, but of course it is up to you.

Anyway, I was looking at this Momo mod 26 (leather version) wheel. It is available in the same size as used in the old Formula 1 cars... like the Lotus 49 up till the turbo monster.

So maybe something for you to drive normal and formula cara with?

MOD_26.jpg

Well....thanks Logiforce...rip the money out of my pocket with these kind of pics. This momo looks sweet! I would love to try it in the Brabham on Spa 1966! But i need some buttons to play with. I went to the website of....some guy....who creates button plates for wheels. This hobby...is expensive BUT I LOVE IT!!!!
 
Well....thanks Logiforce...rip the money out of my pocket with these kind of pics. This momo looks sweet! I would love to try it in the Brabham on Spa 1966! But i need some buttons to play with. I went to the website of....some guy....who creates button plates for wheels. This hobby...is expensive BUT I LOVE IT!!!!

Derek Speare Designs makes a plate for the Mod 26/27. You just need to at a SLI Pro from John Bodin and some buttons.
Or you could grab a plate from SimRacingHardware. They also make custom plates however you want them.

Link: http://simracinghardware.com/product-category/wheel-plates-kit/


About the hobby; yeah, it is expensive but what hobby isn't? Some other guys spend a fortune on fishing rods and accessories for fishing. We just spend it on sim racing. ;)
 
To me it seems the only place it really seems like TM actually "cost cut" the TX was the pedals and rim, which are both re-uses from earlier wheels. I can see why they did too, it makes sense to try to get into that "$300 - $400" neighborhood rather than the premium "$500+" one the T500RS is in... and then make up the difference to those who want it with add-ons. I just got a TX 458 rim off of another forum to play with on my T500RS, and that thing isn't bad at all... BUT as a scaled down 458 Italia steering wheel replica it looks FAR too toy like. I think had TM included the GTE wheel it would have made a much better impression. Of course, they could have dropped the Ferrari tie in altogether and charged $100 less too.

Here´s a better way to cut cost: make it possible to buy the wheel without the pedals, 99% of all people who have Fanatec CSP use them rather than TM:s
 
Derek Speare Designs makes a plate for the Mod 26/27. You just need to at a SLI Pro from John Bodin and some buttons.
Or you could grab a plate from SimRacingHardware. They also make custom plates however you want them.

Link: http://simracinghardware.com/product-category/wheel-plates-kit/


About the hobby; yeah, it is expensive but what hobby isn't? Some other guys spend a fortune on fishing rods and accessories for fishing. We just spend it on sim racing. ;)
Yesterday i ordered the DSD short throw bend shaft shifter from Derek. I'll look what Derek can do for me concerning the SLI plates.

Thanks.
 
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No need for expensive plates like that for a T500RS owner. Why pimp an ugly wheel base with something good looking like that. Get a CSW instead if you like that kind of stuff.

SRW S1 wheel for 20$ give you all the buttons you ever need and rev lights for most PC sims also ;)

Can also use a smartphone as a LCD display or a tablet if you already have one as button box, information screen if you want to declutter your tv.
 
Here´s a better way to cut cost: make it possible to buy the wheel without the pedals, 99% of all people who have Fanatec CSP use them rather than TM:s

I agree, especially once they have the pedal set out there... I doubt the mark down would be that significant tho.
 
Hey Guys,

Sorry if im of topic. I ordered a t500 rs, and yesterday it came in. I hooked it all up and tried to play Grand Turismo 6, everything seemed to work fine except when i pressed the Brake, i noticed the car wouldn't slow down. I looked up at the brake force gauge on the TV and it showed that the braking force was only at about a 1/4.
Is there a setting for this? I tried to contact Thrustmaster, but im not having any luck.
If anyone has any suggestions.
Thanks
 
Hey Guys,

Sorry if im of topic. I ordered a t500 rs, and yesterday it came in. I hooked it all up and tried to play Grand Turismo 6, everything seemed to work fine except when i pressed the Brake, i noticed the car wouldn't slow down. I looked up at the brake force gauge on the TV and it showed that the braking force was only at about a 1/4.
Is there a setting for this? I tried to contact Thrustmaster, but im not having any luck.
If anyone has any suggestions.
Thanks

Try unplugging and replugging the T500 from the PS3. Keep your feet off the pedals when plugging back in. The pedals are calibrated digitally, and maybe they were off position.
 
Try unplugging and replugging the T500 from the PS3. Keep your feet off the pedals when plugging back in. The pedals are calibrated digitally, and maybe they were off position.


Wow, as simple as that! I tried doing that once last night..and had no luck. I just tried once and the brake force went to 1/2, then unplugged/plugged back in again and it went to 100%

Thank you
 
Every time I do GT5/GT6, I plug/unplug from PS3...
...and re-calibrate once in-event by pressing brake until full bar registers.

Also recommend doing same when switching rims out...
...and doing same when switching out TH8 RS from H to Seq.
 
Every time I do GT5/GT6, I plug/unplug from PS3...
...and re-calibrate once in-event by pressing brake until full bar registers.

Also recommend doing same when switching rims out...
...and doing same when switching out TH8 RS from H to Seq.
 
I can say it's not strictly nessesary to recalibrate when changing the TH8 from h-mode to sequential mode (or the opposite way), as it doesn't really interfere with the wheel. But I understand it's just to be sure. :)
 
I can say it's not strictly nessesary to recalibrate when changing the TH8 from h-mode to sequential mode (or the opposite way), as it doesn't really interfere with the wheel. But I understand it's just to be sure. :)

Guess I should have re-worded it to say in event the TH8 RS is disconnected and then re-connected.
I have two TH8 RS shifters, one dedicated H, the other dedicated sequential.
I have found T500 sometimes does not like them hot-swapped on PS3.

Better to make sure prior than having to repeat once in the game.
 
Hi again,
i found after a couple of races in GT 6 the braking has gone back to the red line being half way up the gauge on the screen. I have tried recalibrating it via unplugging the USB connection on the PS3.

Any suggestions? my old wheel (Logitech driving force) the red bar on the gauge went up to 100%,
 
Hi again,
i found after a couple of races in GT 6 the braking has gone back to the red line being half way up the gauge on the screen. I have tried recalibrating it via unplugging the USB connection on the PS3.

Any suggestions? my old wheel (Logitech driving force) the red bar on the gauge went up to 100%,

Are you using some kind of brake stiffener like mrbasher's even stiffer brake mod? If so, a hard brake to the limit of the stiffener will calibrate the pedal to that maximum. And the next time you press to what you normally would, it will be somewhat less than 100% braking.
 
Are you using some kind of brake stiffener like mrbasher's even stiffer brake mod? If so, a hard brake to the limit of the stiffener will calibrate the pedal to that maximum. And the next time you press to what you normally would, it will be somewhat less than 100% braking.


No Sir,
I instaled the "metal brake stop" and then pulled it off again when i couldn't seem to get the brake working properly

here is a pic of my screen, which shows the "red bar"
 

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http://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/accessories/Manuals/T500RS/T500RS_Pedal_calibration.pdf

[ENGLISH] Important notes regarding PEDAL CALIBRATION AND PRECISION:


1) Confirm that your racing wheel features the latest available firmware release.
2) Always connect the pedal set to the racing wheel before connecting the racing wheel to your PlayStation®3 system or PC.
3) Never depress the pedals during the racing wheel’s auto-calibration phase! You should only depress the pedals when the racing wheel’s calibration process is complete and the wheel has returned to the centre position (otherwise, please exit the game, then disconnect and reconnect the racing wheel from your PlayStation®3 system or PC’s USB connector)
4) Once the racing wheel’s auto-calibration phase is complete (and only then), pedal calibration will occur automatically after a few presses
5) Brake pedal with the "Realistic Brake" mod: if you have trouble reaching the maximum calibration values for the brake pedal: briefly stand on the pedal to reach the maximum values, then release the pedal.


[Edit] First time i installed RBM in 14kg, i had to press it very hard to calibrate correct, resently changed it to 16kg position and actually had to stand briefly on the pedal: it callibrated before i was standing on it with full body weight. This has only been needed for first time calibration after RBM install, afterwards it will do it normally.
 
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I haven´t had to much trouble with my DSD adapters. There was something wrong with my second on that one the adjustment bolt didn´t go to the flat top or bottom part but you instead fix it towards the grooves at a 50 degree angle like yours I suppose. It did hold it in place though maybe because the adjustment bolt went down on the hill part of the groove so to speak but the grooves got a bit destroyed and not sure how many reconnects it would survive. As for holding it in place your wheel become loose or do you feel the ffb is a bit sloppy? I use prolongued allen keys and I really have to lie on them to get that perfectly solid connection.

Normally the adapter should bolt on on the flat part near 0 or a 360 degree position with the wheel centered where it´s flat and not the grooves. You don´t need to tighten the bolt much at all in fact very easy to over tighten. Perhaps don´t do to much harm to the plastics but still.


6 o'clock (or very close). Both on my t500 stock wheel and gte add-on hub

Yeah. As I continued to edit that gem of a post, I basically worked my way through the basic issues. My GT and GTE rim sit at 6 o'clock on my first T500. The DSD adapter is at 12 o'clock. It wasn't obvious to me when I began the post, but it became obvious the more I talked to myself, that there's only way way a wheel can be mounted (or else it won't calibrate centered). So the fact my second T500 didn't have that little screw all the way in, coupled with the fact it drills into the threads at 4:30, makes me think it's the T500 thread locker that had the hole drilled in the wrong spot (in relation to where the thread starts). Cause the screw always ends up at 4:30. Pretty inexcusable on Thrustmaster's part, but I'm not sure what I'm going to do about it yet.
 
No need for expensive plates like that for a T500RS owner. Why pimp an ugly wheel base with something good looking like that. Get a CSW instead if you like that kind of stuff.

I considered the CSW when replacing my worn out G27, but I couldn't live with the lack of rear-end feel in FFB. The G27 is still the best for this, but the T500 is a close second, with a more consistent FFB in higher load conditions :)
 
It is personal. Just as personal as humour. I do prefer the T500RS way above the G27. A mate asked me about the difference (he is still in a harsh debate with himself about Fanatec or Thrustmaster) between the G27 and the T500. The prior thing that i can point out is that im way more precise in corners. And with this precision im also able to race the exit kerbs. With the G27 i avoided them because of the terrible rattle from the gears and secondly in 80% of the situations, i would end up in the sand or wall. The with T500RS i just take the kerbs, i ride them like i ride....anyways.
TO be sure of myself i uncoupled the T500, put back the G27 and drove the track with the same setup. Timewise its very close. But i noticed that im way better in catching up side slids with the T500. Its even possible to drift and whatever i tried with the G27, it did not work out of me. For me personally ther T500 is a huge step forward. Nedxt step: Accuforce :drool:
 

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