The Thrustmaster T500RS Thread

[LogiForce]

Got delivery of my Momo Classic 370 mm rim today. Much higher standard then my previous 350 made in china leather rim that´s for sure. It´s in better condition used then that was new

I am happy to report I still reach the paddles fine though it´s surely getting borderline. 380 mm I would surely have to shift grip some to reach them with my hand size. About 20 cm from long fingers to where I bend the wrist.

I think it would be too big for my small hands. So I don't go there unless it's one of those nice old big and rather classic wooden rims.

 

[OwensRacing]

Got the new wheel and pedals all mounted to the rig.

Pedals, are better. Reason is my old ones had worn soft springs on gas. The clutch was floppy. Brake is a loadcell so it was good.

As for the wheel. I use the F430 GTE wheel. So swapped it on right away.

First thing i notcied. Fire up sync. It didn't thud on the direction changes.

Driving. New wheel is tight. From center out. Old had a dead zone area around center.

In the end very glad i got a new one. Other was obviously worn some. Like an truck vs new car.

 

[izver]

Hi. I've just ordered the t500rs, and hopefully it will arrive next week.
I have a couple of questions for you though.

Firstly, I wont be mounting my t500rs onto a rig, so the pedals will be placing on the floor, and if needed supported against the wall, so that they don't move back. I also plan to put them into the GT position.
My question is can and/or should I get the mrbasher brake mod? Every single person in this thread who installed the mod said yes, but is the added brake pressure going to make the pedals move around in GT mode if they aren't bolted down?

Also, I want to replace the wheel centre symbol to something cooler than GT.
The items in bodin's shop are all out of stock
http://www.bodin-solutions.com/BWC-T500-B_Wheel_Center/p1644578_9528893.aspx

Is the wheel center of universal size? Can I purchase these things somewhere else?

Cheers!

 

[oqvist]

If you just can get some back support for the pedals you will be fine. It won´t tip over I belive. I have mine at a bit of an angle though but never seen any tendencies to tip over.

 

[Dean]

I think the pedals'll only tip if you actually kick them. Even in GT "mode", I've had no problems with tipping, only a slight issue with them getting to far away from my feet. 👍

 

[Paul33993]

Continuing what I was saying last week, I finally took off my custom wheel from my first T500. This is how a proper wheel is drilled. The screw is self evident and the red marker is where the thread begins on the wheel locker:

This is where it was drilled on the second T500 I got from Microcenter. The latest T500 version. The mark on the left is where the thread begins. The mark on the right is the screw. They drilled the hole into the thread

I mean, they weren't even off by a single ridge. They were off by two. If the thread locker is composed of 360 degrees, they missed their mark by 90 degrees of the turn Stunning incompetence by Mr. Driller guy.

Bonus size comparison between the GTE wheel and a 330mm Momo. You don't think it's that big of a difference, but it really is.

 

[oqvist]

I recon the GTE rim will see hardly any use once you got used to your 330 mm rim.
Hope you are as happy with your MOMO as I am with mine

 

[Paul33993]

I recon the GTE rim will see hardly any use once you got used to your 330 mm rim.
Hope you are as happy with your MOMO as I am with mine

I am. And the only question about the GTE is this: Do I sell it, or do I think I can find a way to gut it and salvage the shifters and buttons. I wouldn't even mind learning to soldier so I could reclaim the extra 4 buttons from the d-pad. It's really the ONLY debate I'm having with the GTE at this point

 

[izver]

Another question i have regarded the t500. Somewhere in the last 100 pages you guys have been discussing the driver update, and a concencus has been reached that the update reduced the ffb strength. And some of you have said that they simply reduced the periodic setting from 100 to 60, so that what once was 60 now is 100.

That raises the question of ffb settings. I have read and studied many ffb setups, and many people said that 60 periodic is the most linear/real setting, while anything higher just clips the ffb and causes saturation. But if TM changed the periodic default setting to 60, should i use 100 in my ffb settings?

Oh, im a PC user exclusively.

Also, ive read about half of this thread, going from newer posts back. And i havent seen any posts showing the internals of the t500. I would rly love to see the insides, so i know my wheel a bit better.

 

[Gunstar]

There are a few on the web, look up "T500RS Fan Replacement" on Google (seriously, just copy and paste it!) and you'll find some good ones.

 

[Paul33993]

I was one who thought they simply reduced strength, but I'm not sure that was an accurate impression. Anyways, at some point I just updated to the latest driver and stopped caring about comparisons. Can't remember why I did it (maybe in an attempt to tame the FFB on the iracing Mazda ABS?). Whatever my motivation, I got used to it and eventually kept it.

EDIT: Here's fan info:

Hello,

So I've completed the fan upgrade. At this point I am still using the stock fan at the top case because the silenx fan I bought ended up being too thick. Please be sure to purchase a 60x60x20mm fan for the replacement of the stock one. The silenx is about 25mm. One can go to 80x80x20, but you would need to cut of the screw pegs from the inside of the top cover. Just to give an idea of the upgrade, I now run the wheel at 10 in GT5 (wow btw) and running Nur, the stock fan turns on 2 and a half laps in. Which in short means, the other three fans are keeping it cool enough for 2.5 laps at strength 10 of Nur.

What you need:
small phillips screwdriver
tweezers
wire cutter/stripper
soldering iron
good quality foam double sided tape
super glue (gel)
multimeter (if you want to find a different 12v lead)
electric tape

***please note. this is just a guide to give people an idea of how upgrade the cooling in the T500rs, which in my opinion is horrible at OEM/stock level. If you fry something, I take no responsibility. Be smart, take your time, google and youtube is your friend.***

First thing first. Fan size is really important because of room inside the case. The HD cooler fans I bought on a whim ended up being really good 1. in getting fresh air in 2. to get the right side of the motor cooled. I think they are 50x50x10mm. If replacing the top fan (stock fan), which was what started all of this, you need a 60x60x20mm and no thicker. This size is actually a little difficult to find.

I suggest using the official TM manual to remove the casing. My opinion is that its much easier to work with the wheel with the steering wheel on. Just don't move the base too much like this.

First take off all the screws (red arrows)

Take off the top cover and unscrew the one screw, take out the small bolt with tweezers. I've also dremeled in more vent holes at the top.

If you have the steering wheel sitting like this, pull the bottom cover toward you and it should pop off. Undo all the screws shown by the thick red arrows.

Again undo the screws shown. Do not forget the two front face screw, they are black, one on each side.

Now is the hardest part, gently prying the top off. Be very careful in doing this, I suggest having it pop of slightly and then slide the cover off up and towards you. Basically you don't want to hook this little circuit board on the back of the top motor. Just have patience in doing this part and you'll be fine.

Once everything is off, you need to mount your fan/fans how you want, solder everything up and you're golden. TIP!!!! If you want any of the fans to be controlled by the thermal sensor, just splice the ground of your extra fan into the ground of the main fan. Its this ground that controls the thermal sensor...control? Please note that the 12v lead that I chose to run of, is a constant on lead, meaning that the fans attached to it are running even when the wheel is off (but plugged in). If you want the fans only to turn on when the wheel is on, either use the main fan socket, or use a multimeter to find a 12v lead that only has voltage when the wheel is ON.

Hope this helps anybody undertaking a similar project.

Cheers.

Or if you want to download the PDF from Thrustmaster:

http://insidesimracing.tv/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_id=3098

Not sure if you have to be a member to download that file.

 

[Gunstar]

I'd rather have less FFB and a wheel that lasts longer than overly powerful FFB and a broken wheel.

I run in the TM menu: 900 degrees, 80/100/100/0/0 BTW.

 

[Paul33993]

I'm sure this is well covered in here (and maybe on other threads), but what is the best way to lock the release mechanism on the wheel? The one I have at work comes loose ALL the time (clients push and pull way too much on it). I have replaced the stock wood screw with a slightly longer one, but I still have to loosen it every now and then to tighten the large locking nut and then re-tighten the screw.

Also, what is folks experience with the DSD adapter? I've ordered one (the large threaded one) and was wondering if it was as susceptable to the loosening as the original.

*knock on wood* I think I may have found a fix for this. On the wheel shaft I put a couple layers of electrical tape on the flat sections (12 and 6 o'clock). I'm not sure if it's the added thickness to the diameter, or if the electrical tape just provides grip and prevents the screw from slipping against the plastic, but this seems to have solved the issue. YMMV if it's really bad, but it's worth a shot.

 

[diptob79]

*knock on wood* I think I may have found a fix for this. On the wheel shaft I put a couple layers of electrical tape on the flat sections (12 and 6 o'clock). I'm not sure if it's the added thickness to the diameter, or if the electrical tape just provides grip and prevents the screw from slipping against the plastic, but this seems to have solved the issue. YMMV if it's really bad, but it's worth a shot.

Thanks for the tips. Will try to put some plumbing tape on it.
It make sense because once it loose just a bit, it will wiggle and causing more screw loosen.

 

[Divinus]

Hey,

So far only tried GT6 with the wheel on Ps3, so I decided to take a look at the supported game list and bought WRC 2. The wheel has almost no FFB. Is it normal?

Also the game assumed the clutch as the accelerator by default. LOL

 

[Dean]

If I remember right you have to set the FFB setting in the options menu. I think it's left at zero, but I'm not sure.

 

[Divinus]

If I remember right you have to set the FFB setting in the options menu. I think it's left at zero, but I'm not sure.

How I wish you were right. I can't find any ffb setting in-game. I can set steering and pedals deadzone, the linearity of any of them, but I can't set the ffb. It's odd that they gave us these advanced options and then don't let us set the ffb.

Anyways, thanks 👍

 

[izver]

Another t500rs question for you:
What games should I try playing with this wheel? On my list right now are AC, rf, rf2, gtr evo, rbr. Which do you think gives best FFB? I know that all of these sims I listed do well in the physics area, but I want a game that can really showcase the t500...
(pc only )

 

[fatkrakr]

Game Stock Car 2013 is probably the newest COMPLETE sim out for the pc at the moment. Some of the best AI I have seen in a racing sim, but not a lot going on online.

 

[Paul33993]

Another t500rs question for you:
What games should I try playing with this wheel? On my list right now are AC, rf, rf2, gtr evo, rbr. Which do you think gives best FFB? I know that all of these sims I listed do well in the physics area, but I want a game that can really showcase the t500...
(pc only )

Honestly prefer the physics of Assetto Corsa and Gamestock Car 2013 the best. But if you're taking purely FFB and nothing more, it's my belief that rfactor 2 is the king in this department. Again, I would probably rank it behind AC and GSC in my personal enjoyment, but for FFB alone, it's the king IMO.

 

[Zero7159]

IMO, best FFB on the T500, or most if not all other wheels is found in rFactor 2. The problem is rFactor 2 is not done yet and so its hard to find good online multiplayer for it. Otherwise, the next best FFB IMO is found in iRacing, with Assetto Corsa, Project CARS, Gran Turismo 5 and 6 and Game Stock Car 2013 also being worthwhile.

 

[bogani]

Got mys DSD-adapter and my 350mm wheel a week ago or so. Even though my hands are quite small I have no problems reaching the paddles. I don't think I could go bigger though.

 

[Simmpa]

Got mys DSD-adapter and my 350mm wheel a week ago or so. Even though my hands are quite small I have no problems reaching the paddles. I don't think I could go bigger though.

View attachment 119172

Is that yellow mark in the middle made by you? Where did you bought that one? I also live in Sweden.

 

[JogoAsobi]

Honestly prefer the physics of Assetto Corsa and Gamestock Car 2013 the best. But if you're taking purely FFB and nothing more, it's my belief that rfactor 2 is the king in this department. Again, I would probably rank it behind AC and GSC in my personal enjoyment, but for FFB alone, it's the king IMO.

I completely agree with this.

 

[Cote Dazur]

Honestly prefer the physics of Assetto Corsa and Gamestock Car 2013 the best. But if you're taking purely FFB and nothing more, it's my belief that rfactor 2 is the king in this department. Again, I would probably rank it behind AC and GSC in my personal enjoyment, but for FFB alone, it's the king IMO.

Could be true for T500 but not with other wheels, it is recognized the at this (early ) stage in AC the FFB feeling on the T500 needs to be improved.

 

[oqvist]

I suppose I must be gentle with mine but never seen that issue with stock or my DSD adapters.

Is that yellow mark in the middle made by you? Where did you bought that one? I also live in Sweden.

Just by some yellow reflex bands don't even have to tape those or anything. I don't really find it useful though

 

[Gunstar]

Got mys DSD-adapter and my 350mm wheel a week ago or so. Even though my hands are quite small I have no problems reaching the paddles. I don't think I could go bigger though.

View attachment 119172

Thanks for this pic, just ordered a 350mm for my T500RS, going to upgrade from my 320mm, here's hoping I like it!

 

[bogani]

Is that yellow mark in the middle made by you? Where did you bought that one? I also live in Sweden.

Nope the yellow mark is there by default. I got from http://rallyshop.se/produkt/RRS-Mockaratt-350flat .

The original T500RS rim feels like an old formula rim after you get used to the bigger "real" thing. The change is massive.

However I also have a problem with the tightening screw when using the DSD adapter. It ends upp about 1 o'clock when the wheel is fully tightened, compared to 6 o'clock with the orgiginal rim attached. This means the screw does not hit the flat part that is located at 12 and 6 o'clock.

 

[bogani]

Honestly prefer the physics of Assetto Corsa and Gamestock Car 2013 the best. But if you're taking purely FFB and nothing more, it's my belief that rfactor 2 is the king in this department. Again, I would probably rank it behind AC and GSC in my personal enjoyment, but for FFB alone, it's the king IMO.

Assetto Corsa is awesome physics wise but when it comes to FFB they still have a lot of work to do IMHO.

 

[bogani]

I suppose I must be gentle with mine but never seen that issue with stock or my DSD adapters.

What issue are you referring to?