The Thrustmaster T500RS Thread

  • Thread starter TomN
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Thanks Gunstar, going to see if I can get another win today. Will certaily look at the brake mods. Are there any alternatives to Sam Maxwell, love his work but just wondering if there is anyone else I should look at.
I just use a DSD adapter and an ebay wheel, I have been using a 320mm but I just ordered a 350mm "suede" wheel to replace it. No buttons or anything, but the larger diameter and rim and the "texture" of the rim just give it all a better feel.

I'd LOVE a Sam Maxwell wheel, but at $400-$500+, I'm just not ready for that.
 
Do I need solder knowledge to add buttons?
Yeah, probably. Soldering isn't hard tho, just get an soldering iron, some solder, and I like to practice with old wires and broken electronics, and you'll have the hang of it in no time. There are some cool online tutorials too!
 
Congrats on the win and the wheel. Upgrade the brake mod to the Basher Brake Mod ASAP and I am sure you'll be even happier.

Bingo, what he said. The brake mod that comes with the T500 is OK, nothing special, and it certainly does not make the brake feel better than the load cell on the Fanatec Clubsport pedals. I added Basherboards' mod and now the brake feels better than anything else I have tried, including the stock T500 modded brake pedal and the Clubsport load cell brake pedal.
 
Guys, need some help here.

I am overhauling a T500 of my friend. Long list of problem :)
- fan problem (obviously)
- damaged connectors
- dull thread on the wheel shaft
- broken wheel stopper
- belts almost cut
- dead paddle shifter switch
- broken pedal springs
- spiking pots
- broken casing here and there from previous fix attempts, lol

Torsion springs and belt i already custom order for replacement
I have completed most of all but one culprit that keeps breaking is this wheel stopper.
I tried various glue /epoxy but always broken again



Appreciate if somebody have advice or gone through similar experience.

Thanks
 
Guys, need some help here.

I am overhauling a T500 of my friend. Long list of problem :)
- fan problem (obviously)
- damaged connectors
- dull thread on the wheel shaft
- broken wheel stopper
- belts almost cut
- dead paddle shifter switch
- broken pedal springs
- spiking pots
- broken casing here and there from previous fix attempts, lol

Torsion springs and belt i already custom order for replacement
I have completed most of all but one culprit that keeps breaking is this wheel stopper.
I tried various glue /epoxy but always broken again



Appreciate if somebody have advice or gone through similar experience.

Thanks
you can get the paddle shifter buttons from bodin's website.
There is about a ton of fan replacement info on the web. Just google t500rs fan replacement. You should find out exactly what fan you need fast.

For the rest I can't help you.

But I do want to ask you, how the hell did the wheel get so messed up?
 
you can get the paddle shifter buttons from bodin's website.
There is about a ton of fan replacement info on the web. Just google t500rs fan replacement. You should find out exactly what fan you need fast.

For the rest I can't help you.

But I do want to ask you, how the hell did the wheel get so messed up?
Thanks for the tip.

Two words to answer your question :
Amusement Center

Lol
 
Looking at the wheel stopper in your picture, I've been thinking. Could you weld a piece on the metal bit? That would be quite sturdy than. I don't know if that's possible though...
 
I was just trying to update my wheel using the Update Service. It found out I wasn't on the newest firmware fine, but when I accepted the update installation it said "failed to [something] FTP server". Is anybody else having that issue? Nevertheless I opened my browser and downloaded the TTS_2 update from TS on the Thrustmaster site. First it uninstalled all drivers, which I didn't see coming to be honest. Then I reran the programme, and it installed everything perfectly without issues. It shows in the software I'm having the latest Firmware, but do I really? :confused:
 
I was just trying to update my wheel using the Update Service. It found out I wasn't on the newest firmware fine, but when I accepted the update installation it said "failed to [something] FTP server". Is anybody else having that issue? Nevertheless I opened my browser and downloaded the TTS_2 update from TS on the Thrustmaster site. First it uninstalled all drivers, which I didn't see coming to be honest. Then I reran the programme, and it installed everything perfectly without issues. It shows in the software I'm having the latest Firmware, but do I really? :confused:

During my saga the other day the Update Service did the same to me. The latest firmware is V41, so as long as it says something-something-41 you are good :)

P.S. The wheel that gave me grief the other day is working fine now!
 
Looking at the wheel stopper in your picture, I've been thinking. Could you weld a piece on the metal bit? That would be quite sturdy than. I don't know if that's possible though...
I think they use plastic stopper so it will be the weakest point to prevent damage on wheel shaft.
Last night the stoper broke again after 2 days with devcon epoxy adhesive.
I will try to some thing else with this stopper. Hard metal weld is still an option though.

Thanks again
 
Hey guys, finally got around to plugging my T500 into my PS3 for the first time, but it wont work properly with Manual transmission. If i use the paddles (as is default) right paddle doesn't work, and left paddle just upshifts instead of downshifting.

If i reassign the upshift and downshift function to other buttons, the same thing happens. Anything assigned to upshift doesn't work, and whatever is assigned to downshift, works as upshift.

Any thoughts? everything works fine on PC.

Cheers
 
Hey guys, finally got around to plugging my T500 into my PS3 for the first time, but it wont work properly with Manual transmission. If i use the paddles (as is default) right paddle doesn't work, and left paddle just upshifts instead of downshifting.

If i reassign the upshift and downshift function to other buttons, the same thing happens. Anything assigned to upshift doesn't work, and whatever is assigned to downshift, works as upshift.

Any thoughts? everything works fine on PC.

Cheers
Make sure you updated the firmware from TM and you can use the rebooting to wake up the wheel so its recognized by the ps3 I did this to mine when I put the ferrari gte wheel add on and it did the exact same thing yours is doing,the downshift wasn't wworking because the ps3 wasn't recognizing it,use the bootloader pdf to wake up your wheel it worked brilliantly for me!
 
Make sure you updated the firmware from TM and you can use the rebooting to wake up the wheel so its recognized by the ps3 I did this to mine when I put the ferrari gte wheel add on and it did the exact same thing yours is doing,the downshift wasn't wworking because the ps3 wasn't recognizing it,use the bootloader pdf to wake up your wheel it worked brilliantly for me!
awesome thanks mate, i'll update the firmware and give it another go. cheers
 
I've got a T500RS F1 edition that I have had since July of last year. I also have the GTE add on wheel which I use more than the F1 wheel. Anyway I started to notice the wheel has a slight movement from side to side almost like it is not tight. I pulled it off and checked the F1 wheel and it does the same thing. So I installed the GTE wheel again and still notice it. I tightened it as much as I could but the wobble is still there. I checked the little Phillips screw that goes in and it will not get tight. It just keeps turning like it is stripped out. I really starting noticing it a lot in iRacing today and I don't know if it is related or not but today I also started having problems with downshifting. I use the paddles on the GTE rim.

Any thoughts? You think it is because that little screw won't get tight?

Thanks
 
My mode button behavior has changed. Previously when the light was green the f1 pedal configuration worked, however now it only works when it's red. Basically mode switches the clutch and pedal assignments.

I've done a driver reinstall and the firmware is up to date, could windows 8.1 be the problem as I recently just upgraded from a fresh reinstall of windows 8.
 
I've got a T500RS F1 edition that I have had since July of last year. I also have the GTE add on wheel which I use more than the F1 wheel. Anyway I started to notice the wheel has a slight movement from side to side almost like it is not tight. I pulled it off and checked the F1 wheel and it does the same thing. So I installed the GTE wheel again and still notice it. I tightened it as much as I could but the wobble is still there. I checked the little Phillips screw that goes in and it will not get tight. It just keeps turning like it is stripped out. I really starting noticing it a lot in iRacing today and I don't know if it is related or not but today I also started having problems with downshifting. I use the paddles on the GTE rim.

Any thoughts? You think it is because that little screw won't get tight?

Thanks

I don't think it's possible to get that screw tight (at least I never was able to).

Yours sounds like the classic issue of the four screws in the steering column coming loose.

On the older versions, the screws were only 14mm and they constantly come loose for many of us. This results in the wheel being loose and wobbly. Apparently they've changed to 16mm with the latest revision, but it's definitely a known issue with the older versions. I permanently fixed mine by replacing the 14mm screws with these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/160756050997?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

and some vibratite.
 
I don't think it's possible to get that screw tight (at least I never was able to).

Yours sounds like the classic issue of the four screws in the steering column coming loose.

On the older versions, the screws were only 14mm and they constantly come loose for many of us. This results in the wheel being loose and wobbly. Apparently they've changed to 16mm with the latest revision, but it's definitely a known issue with the older versions. I permanently fixed mine by replacing the 14mm screws with these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/160756050997?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

and some vibratite.

Thanks for the tip. I played around with it some more this morning and checked everything for tightness. The 4 screws you are talking about were all tight. I put everything back together and you can still feel the wobble. I went into iracing and did some practice laps and I guess you really can't feel it while driving but it seems strange they would have this much play in them. With so much plastic in them you are afraid to tighten anything too much.

Again thanks for the tip. I may look locally for some screws like the ones in your link.
 
I think they use plastic stopper so it will be the weakest point to prevent damage on wheel shaft.
Last night the stoper broke again after 2 days with devcon epoxy adhesive.
I will try to some thing else with this stopper. Hard metal weld is still an option though.

Thanks again

Hmm, does the metal part come out of the plastic? It will be extremely difficult to weld that for 2 reasons if it does not. First, the plastic will rapidly melt with any kind of welding going on anywhere near it (like within an inch or two). Second, that looks like the infamously ubiquitous "pot-metal," which can be a nightmare to weld. Often it will weld for a second, then the puddle will just collapse and the liquid metal will just roll away. I would suggest you try soldering instead. And if the metal part doesn't come out of the plastic you might want to make the attempt with the plastic submerged under water.
 
Thanks for the tip. I played around with it some more this morning and checked everything for tightness. The 4 screws you are talking about were all tight. I put everything back together and you can still feel the wobble. I went into iracing and did some practice laps and I guess you really can't feel it while driving but it seems strange they would have this much play in them. With so much plastic in them you are afraid to tighten anything too much.

Again thanks for the tip. I may look locally for some screws like the ones in your link.

If they were tight, it's possible you have a revision with the longer screws already. So I'm not sure I'd even waste the effort looking for longer screws. It's sound like you've discovered some new issue.
 
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