The Thrustmaster T500RS Thread
- Thread starter TomN
- 9,924 comments
- 2,161,245 views
- 1,603
- IN
- Eric_J2358
No, stainless is almost always weaker and easier to snap. It's tensile strength is usually a lot less than alloy steel. Aren't these screws like wood screws and fastened into plastic? If so you don't need to tap, they are made to form their own threads as they screw in - you only need to drill a hole to give the middle of the screw somewhere to go. Breaking one off without any part left sticking out is a problem though, there probably isn't enough diameter to get an EZ-out to work.
Your best bet may be to drill out the entire hole and epoxy in a new plastic dowel so you can re-drill the hole for the screw.
It's not such a big job - if you were local I'd do it for you for lunch.
- 1,358
- Redmond, WA
- mrbasherman
They screw into a piece of metal. 
I don't believe you need to drill, as I believe the holes are there already, but they will need to be tapped if using longer than 16 mm screws.
Just get 16 mm screws and use some low strength thread locker on them. Loc-Tite purple is low strength.
I did this on mine a long long time ago and they haven't budged since.
Procedure is:
Put the new ones in with thread locker on them.
Tighten down pretty tight. (don't go hulk on them)
Play for about 15 minutes.
Try to tighten more. (you probably wont be able to)
After that, they should stay put. Don't bother with tapping and all that. Most hardware stores have the 16 mm screws.
I don't believe you need to drill, as I believe the holes are there already, but they will need to be tapped if using longer than 16 mm screws.Just get 16 mm screws and use some low strength thread locker on them. Loc-Tite purple is low strength.
I did this on mine a long long time ago and they haven't budged since.
Procedure is:
Put the new ones in with thread locker on them.
Tighten down pretty tight. (don't go hulk on them)
Play for about 15 minutes.
Try to tighten more. (you probably wont be able to)
After that, they should stay put. Don't bother with tapping and all that. Most hardware stores have the 16 mm screws.
- 1,603
- IN
- Eric_J2358
Ah, so they are machine screws. Definitely go with Basher's advice then. For some reason I was under the impression they were into plastic. Are they into solid metal or sheet metal? I looked earlier into the thread a bit for pics but couldn't find anything in the couple minutes I had.
- 1,358
- Redmond, WA
- mrbasherman
It's a chunk of metal that makes up part of the column. You can see it in this video at about 5 minutes in:
(by the way, this video shows the process by which you tap the holes, should you want to)
I say, skip it.
You risk snapping that little tap off in there if you are ham fisted. Then you're screwed! (get it? hehe)
(by the way, this video shows the process by which you tap the holes, should you want to)
I say, skip it.
You risk snapping that little tap off in there if you are ham fisted. Then you're screwed! (get it? hehe)
- 1,603
- IN
- Eric_J2358
Ahh, the ubiquitous pot-metal again, lol. It would appear that there is already quite a bit of thread engagement looking at the old screws in that video - the part of the screw that is blackened I guess must be the length that is screwed in to the metal part in use. Making that longer won't help a whole lot unless you have a bad bond with your threadlock. Better would be to take out the factory screws and clean the threads with acetone and a wire brush and perhaps do the same to the threaded holes using a pipe cleaner dipped in acetone (just be careful not to get any on the plastic, it may melt depending on the plastic type!) then apply some fresh thread locking compound (I'd recommend blue - Loctite #242) and install the screws. I'd be very surprised if they ever backed out again on accident after that. MrBasher's recommendation about playing for a short period and rechecking the screws is also a good one.
- 1,603
- IN
- Eric_J2358
Sigh. Double post. Android phone is a PITA sometimes, lol. Well, while I'm here, I would also second Basher's comment about being "screwed" if the tap breaks - you REALLY don't want that to happen. If it does, you won't be fixing it without your friendly neighborhood machinist or new parts.
JogoAsobi
Premium
- 2,578
They screw into a piece of metal.
Just get 16 mm screws and use some low strength thread locker on them. Loc-Tite purple is low strength.
I did this on mine a long long time ago and they haven't budged since.
Procedure is:
Put the new ones in with thread locker on them.
Tighten down pretty tight. (don't go hulk on them)
Play for about 15 minutes.
Try to tighten more. (you probably wont be able to)
After that, they should stay put. Don't bother with tapping and all that. Most hardware stores have the 16 mm screws.
Since doing this back in late November '13, no loosening whatsoever so far.
My replacement V.5 came with 16 mm screws installed.
When it arrived, first thing I checked were the screws...
...the scary part...
...all four were loose as a goose. 
Last edited:
Whitestar
Premium
- 2,079
- Norway
- Whitestar127
Yes, 16 mm is the way to go. I inserted 4 of those a couple of months ago without any thread locker, and they are still tight. If they come loose I will try the Loc-Tite purple.They screw into a piece of metal.
Just get 16 mm screws and use some low strength thread locker on them. Loc-Tite purple is low strength.
I did this on mine a long long time ago and they haven't budged since.
Procedure is:
Put the new ones in with thread locker on them.
Tighten down pretty tight. (don't go hulk on them)
Play for about 15 minutes.
Try to tighten more. (you probably wont be able to)
After that, they should stay put. Don't bother with tapping and all that. Most hardware stores have the 16 mm screws.
One could also try some type of thread seal tape or do what this guy did.
- 929
- Portugal
- Goruk77
Hi there guys,
I just bought a used T500 with more than a year of warranty, but i´m having this spiking problem on the brake pedal.
The version of it is V1 still
Should I try and clean the pots or should i contact support and ask for a V6 pedals?
Edit: Just have contact support, they say that they will send a new pot for the brake pedal.
I just bought a used T500 with more than a year of warranty, but i´m having this spiking problem on the brake pedal.
The version of it is V1 still
Should I try and clean the pots or should i contact support and ask for a V6 pedals?
Edit: Just have contact support, they say that they will send a new pot for the brake pedal.
Last edited:
- 9,884
- Carthage, TN
- race_emhard
I've got a problem:
I was playing GT6 when the gas pedal (using the formula-style configuration) sometimes would not give any power. Other times it would stick when I let off, with the pedal fully released. I then switched it to GT-style and now the clutch is not functional at all.
Too me, this sounds like an electronics problem, rather than a simple fix.
The wheel is V5, the same one I got back in December.
I was playing GT6 when the gas pedal (using the formula-style configuration) sometimes would not give any power. Other times it would stick when I let off, with the pedal fully released. I then switched it to GT-style and now the clutch is not functional at all.
Too me, this sounds like an electronics problem, rather than a simple fix.
The wheel is V5, the same one I got back in December.
- 9,884
- Carthage, TN
- race_emhard
UPDATE: The troublesome pedal mysteriously fixed itself, but still, I'd like anyone ot give me any advice on what to do in case that were to happen again.
- 1,086
- St-Hyacinthe, QC
- GTP_pilmat
- pilmat
My suggestion is to check the connection at the wheel. The telephone style connector is not that strongly held and if it wiggles loose it can cause strange intermittent problems. Either that or dirty pots in the pedal box...
- 9,884
- Carthage, TN
- race_emhard
The connection is the first thing I thought of, I unplugged it and plugged it back in and it was the same way. I then simply just then switched it to the GT pedals and just went about my business.
I checked it afterwards and the pots did have a little lint it them, the other 2 pedals look the same way, a quick spray with some air did get it out, but it was still the same as it was before.
Like I said, it mysteriously works just fine now. I don't want to have to take it apart, I value my warranty.
I checked it afterwards and the pots did have a little lint it them, the other 2 pedals look the same way, a quick spray with some air did get it out, but it was still the same as it was before.
Like I said, it mysteriously works just fine now. I don't want to have to take it apart, I value my warranty.
- 48
- polaristic
Has anyone else had an issue with the brake being applied even though the pedal is not being pressed with the T500 RS brake. I have noticed this issue in both GT6 and iracing. I find that if i lift up on the pedal with my foot it seems to fix it but it is a major pain in the ass as it happens intermittently and when I least need it to. I should mention that I have the pedals in the vertical configuration and the Basher mod installed though I don't think that has any bearing on the issue.
- 1,234
- Northern Ca.
- Gunstar
- Gunstar Hero
When you first press it down to calibrate it (you do this on EVERY power on, it's just how the thing works, I like to do it in the TM Settings Tool) don't SMASH it to the floor, just press it until you feel resistance and hold it, the bar will totally fill up like you're 100%, then give it a couple test presses and you should be good.
LogiForce
Premium
- 4,078
- Groningen, Netherlands
- LogiForce86
- LogiForce
Did anyone see this one yet...
Thrustmaster Ferrari 458 Spider Racing Wheel - available April-18-2014 for €99,99 (incl tax)
Don't hold your breath though. Bungee chord tech with 240 whopping degrees of rotation.
This is not a wheel, this is a joystick in disguise. lol
Thrustmaster Ferrari 458 Spider Racing Wheel - available April-18-2014 for €99,99 (incl tax)
Don't hold your breath though. Bungee chord tech with 240 whopping degrees of rotation.
This is not a wheel, this is a joystick in disguise. lol
- 9,884
- Carthage, TN
- race_emhard
I don't think a successor is coming anytime soon, besides, the T500 RS is PS4 compatible right?
- 553
- Sweden
- 404
- Indianapolis, I
Still around, but in the middle of selling our house and building a new home, so my workbench is packed away at the moment, save for only the bare essentials. I've mothballed all my parts and stock, and I'm not re-ordering any new stock (like out-of-stock wheel centers) until I've relocated and ready to unpack my workbench again.
So, sorry for the delay, but rest assured that I'm not gone, just on hiatus (due partly to circumstances beyond my control . . . sort of, anyway).
- 404
- Indianapolis, I
The T500 pedals are already superior to the CSP pedals, IMO -- without cranking the pedal stiffness up to max on the CSPs, I couldn't even tell that the brake pedal WASN'T potentiometer-based. Plus, the CSPs may look prettier, but the T500 pedals are built like a tank.
Now, before you poo-poo things too much, let's up the ante a bit: I'll race you to see whether I can invert my T500 pedals faster than you can invert your CSP pedals.
Oh, wait, you CAN'T invert the CSP pedals, can you? Not without building some structure to hang them from.
</CASE_CLOSED>
- 1,086
- St-Hyacinthe, QC
- GTP_pilmat
- pilmat
The T500 pedals are already superior to the CSP pedals, IMO -- without cranking the pedal stiffness up to max on the CSPs, I couldn't even tell that the brake pedal WASN'T potentiometer-based. Plus, the CSPs may look prettier, but the T500 pedals are built like a tank.
Now, before you poo-poo things too much, let's up the ante a bit: I'll race you to see whether I can invert my T500 pedals faster than you can invert your CSP pedals.
Oh, wait, you CAN'T invert the CSP pedals, can you? Not without building some structure to hang them from.
</CASE_CLOSED>
I don't like EITHER
Long live G27 pedals (with an aftermarket brake spring like the GTEye)!! And thanks John for making the T500-wheel/G27-pedal adapter 👍Similar threads
