The WTC 600 in Tokyo done without exploits is genuinely one of the hardest races in single player in gt7 - share your setups, tips, and cars

  • Thread starter The_It_Jojo
  • 2,612 comments
  • 407,971 views
I`d be interested in the tune,i clicked the highlighted RX7 in your post but nothing happened.
 
Thank you.Will take a look.👍
 
LaFerrari in sub 26:30
tune 👉🏻
3B40B447-85A6-43B1-A437-2EB277162DD0.jpeg
 
So my third race with the Alpine was the first clean no-contact run without penalties. 👍
I'm still far from feeling at home in the car, but everything looks very promising :
RT 25:06
FL 1:56.7
Assists ABS standard and TCS 1

Kudos to @z06fun for the gearing. 👍
You're a much better driver than I if that's your 3rd race with it! Yeesh lol. My fastest RT is 25:09 and lap 1:56.2
 
I can't get better than 3rd with the DP-100 VGT. Is this still meant to be an easy win?
Use MT, not AT. Otherwise it'll get stuck in 5th or something on the straights and suck down all the fuel. Shift right when first bar lights up on each gear - 3rd until 100 MPH, 4th until 130, 5th until 160-165 and can stay in 6th until hairpin. MT will allow a no-pit on SH's.
 
Use MT, not AT. Otherwise it'll get stuck in 5th or something on the straights and suck down all the fuel. Shift right when first bar lights up on each gear - 3rd until 100 MPH, 4th until 130, 5th until 160-165 and can stay in 6th until hairpin. MT will allow a no-pit on SH's.
I don't know the track well and don't push 100% because ill smack into the walls. This money method might not be for me but i'll give it another try.
 
I was using AT. Got 2 penalties and didn't even finish with single digits. After so many tries best I could do was 3rd.

As others said, use MT, it takes some time to get used from AT but in the end it's worth it. As for the penalties, just stay away from the walls and nail your breaking points, that will be enough to win.
 
Hi. I won the race yesterday with AMG SLS AMG '10 With Sport Hard tyres and won with + 10 seconds.
PS: No change tyres on pit stop at lap 6.
 
Last edited:
I can't get better than 3rd with the DP-100 VGT. Is this still meant to be an easy win?
Dp100 is weak in terms of straight line speed, but amazing in handling. You cant do much in the straight line part of this track. You need to attack in the cornering part of the track where the dp100 is superior to the other ai drivers.
 
Dp100 is weak in terms of straight line speed, but amazing in handling. You cant do much in the straight line part of this track. You need to attack in the cornering part of the track where the dp100 is superior to the other ai drivers.
The DP-100 isn't weak in straight line speed, quite the opposite.
Just it's engine as no torque at all at top end. It easily goes to 190mph on the straight, without slipstream, you just have to shortshift before entering on the "no torque" band. I play with roof cam so can't say the RPM I shift, but just when the rpm starts to show the red filling I upshift.
You don't shortshift for fuel consuption but it helps, as your tank is good this way for about 14 laps and the race only has 12 laps.
I can't do some lap times shown here but still easy win cruising around, just don't force the fight with AI cars, only gets you penalties when they sent you to the walls, keep good pace then just wait to Gallo starts pitting to get the lead.
There is also another trick to avoid penalties, when you feel the car understeering towards the walls, just gas it, the car power oversteers naturally and you will brush the wall with the side, no penalty.
 
I don't know the track well and don't push 100% because ill smack into the walls. This money method might not be for me but i'll give it another try.

what difficultly level?
Also I find the Alpine A220 extremely twitchy with the glitched tune, I cna get down below 2:00 sometimes but I run all assist(ASM,TSM, TCS 2, then 1 at the end) and fuel save the first couple laps to stop twitchiness. I have won on all difficulty levels but easy is actually faster and hardest, and normal is slowest and hard seems to be inbetween.

For reference I can typically get into top 1000 in daily race time trail and us no assist on 99 percent of the cars in dailys/GTWS. I just find the A220 extremely hard to catch snap oversteer on a wheel and really just want my 800k for the race.
 
what difficultly level?
Also I find the Alpine A220 extremely twitchy with the glitched tune, I cna get down below 2:00 sometimes but I run all assist(ASM,TSM, TCS 2, then 1 at the end) and fuel save the first couple laps to stop twitchiness. I have won on all difficulty levels but easy is actually faster and hardest, and normal is slowest and hard seems to be inbetween.

For reference I can typically get into top 1000 in daily race time trail and us no assist on 99 percent of the cars in dailys/GTWS. I just find the A220 extremely hard to catch snap oversteer on a wheel and really just want my 800k for the race.
I'll have to check, but I have tweaked the tune settings to make it much more stable on this track. It's only unstable on the first lap. I use TC1 and weak counter-steer (just remember to disable it when not doing this race, but it makes a huge diff on the first lap to not spin out). I think I lowered a-roll bar in front, increased in the back and 5-29-10 on diff.
 
I'll have to check, but I have tweaked the tune settings to make it much more stable on this track. It's only unstable on the first lap. I use TC1 and weak counter-steer (just remember to disable it when not doing this race, but it makes a huge diff on the first lap to not spin out). I think I lowered a-roll bar in front, increased in the back and 5-29-10 on diff.
how did you change any tune with out losing the sub 600pp?

I am using the 460hp race soft tire glitched tune with trans letting me get to like 207mph.
 
how did you change any tune with out losing the sub 600pp?

I am using the 460hp race soft tire glitched tune with trans letting me get to like 207mph.
Almost all the settings jack-up the PP when changed, but the A-R-Bar has only very small effect and with the diff, only the accelerating setting makes a change to the PP. With the <600PP tune, look at the Rotational G performance for 240 km/h - it's +0.44 compared to the +1.41 & +1.51 for 60/120 km/h respectfully. If you change any of tires/suspension/aero/intercooler/brakes and re-calc, you'll see the RotG for 240 km/h goes back up to "normal" value of like +1.73, thus much higher PP.

While I'm not completely sure this is how it is done, the game simulates your car turning at full steering angle, with constant throttle applied, to keep the speed set exactly to 240 km/h. The number that is recorded is a measure of how much understeer (positive) or oversteer (negative) the car has at those speeds while neither accelerating or decelerating. Stability measures the behavior of the car's handling, while Rotational G measures the performance of the car's handling. So with the tune everyone is using, when it simulates the test, at 240 km/h something "wonky" happens to the car - maybe it's shifting at that spot, or the turbo kicks in strongly, I don't know, I'm not the most knowledgeable about tuning. All I know is that the game thinks you have a much different/lower stability "performance" with that tune and that making even the slightest of adjustments, changes what the car does specifically at 240 km/h to that of normal performance, thus the increase in PP.
 
The DP-100 isn't weak in straight line speed, quite the opposite.
Just it's engine as no torque at all at top end. It easily goes to 190mph on the straight, without slipstream, you just have to shortshift before entering on the "no torque" band. I play with roof cam so can't say the RPM I shift, but just when the rpm starts to show the red filling I upshift.
You don't shortshift for fuel consuption but it helps, as your tank is good this way for about 14 laps and the race only has 12 laps.
I can't do some lap times shown here but still easy win cruising around, just don't force the fight with AI cars, only gets you penalties when they sent you to the walls, keep good pace then just wait to Gallo starts pitting to get the lead.
There is also another trick to avoid penalties, when you feel the car understeering towards the walls, just gas it, the car power oversteers naturally and you will brush the wall with the side, no penalty.
When posting above, i was refering to auto shift.
You, by talking about short shifting, highlighted the dp100's main problem. Its a manual shift car, you can only get an good performances out of it by going manual shift.
In auto shift the dp100 its very underwhelming. In the straight line it gets "stuck" in 5th gear, you need to manually shift up to 6th gear (i do it at about 265km/h even before bar gets to the red) so the speed will continue rising and get to 310km/h, or else you will stay in 5th and wont go above 290km/h. Thats why auto shift sucks in this car, It wont shift up to 6th.
But most players play auto shift. I bet a large amount of people who read this dont even know what short shifting is. If new players find out they have to learn a new way of driving to get something of the dp100, many will probably pick another car instead. Thats why i didnt talk about short shifting. So that players in auto shift could still get results out of the dp100.
Then they can learn to drive manual if they really want to.
 
All your points are valid. But I did dp100 with AT and still win comfortably. Not as comfortable as alpine or chaparral, but still ok.
Just play and get to know the track well and try to avoid penalty and you should be fine.
 
All your points are valid. But I did dp100 with AT and still win comfortably. Not as comfortable as alpine or chaparral, but still ok.
Just play and get to know the track well and try to avoid penalty and you should be fine.
The dp100 is a unique case of its own. I drove many cars in this race and I never found another car with such a huge difference in performance between auto and manual. Usually when you go manual shift you get slightly better times and spend less fuel (specially if you short shift). For this case, the diference is just insane.
 
When posting above, i was refering to auto shift.
You, by talking about short shifting, highlighted the dp100's main problem. Its a manual shift car, you can only get an good performances out of it by going manual shift.
In auto shift the dp100 its very underwhelming. In the straight line it gets "stuck" in 5th gear, you need to manually shift up to 6th gear (i do it at about 265km/h even before bar gets to the red) so the speed will continue rising and get to 310km/h, or else you will stay in 5th and wont go above 290km/h. Thats why auto shift sucks in this car, It wont shift up to 6th.
But most players play auto shift. I bet a large amount of people who read this dont even know what short shifting is. If new players find out they have to learn a new way of driving to get something of the dp100, many will probably pick another car instead. Thats why i didnt talk about short shifting. So that players in auto shift could still get results out of the dp100.
Then they can learn to drive manual if they really want to.
I have no problem at all with people using the driving assists available in the game.
But this isn't a pure arcade game and, as in real racing, you can take huge advantage of the way you handle your gear selection to extract the best performance from your racecar, specially in endurance racing. Like, you can use traction control on 5 all the time if you feel more comfortable this way, but you will be a lot slower on 99% of the situations, nothing wrong there.
The DP-100 is an extreme case (but hei, it's a VGT model, go figure) but many cars, including BoP regulated Gr.3, Gr.4 or even Gr. 1, are considerably faster if you shift on the optimal point which isn't the red line where automatic aid changes gear. Maybe against AI, without fuel consumption, it makes no great difference, but when fuel multipliers against another human players the performance delta will be huge.
In this particular race, working the gearbox is extremely important, not only on the upshifts but also the downshifts, at least when most of the track is still damp, not only in the DP-100 and it's torque curve, but most of the cars to get the best corner entry and avoid penalties, like I said this isn't Need for Speed nor Midnight Club.
This is the biggest payout race in the game, it isn't shocking the programmers make your life a little harder than most of the races.
 
After months of trying, I finally finished first in this race.

I used an Aventador LP-700 4.

I put as much power as I could on it, Sports Hard, and enough ballast to bring it under 600PP (admittedly, a very simple tune).

Fastest lap time 2:12.3.

Finished in just over 27 minutes.

I beat Gallo by 18 seconds.

Honestly - this car is a dream. Quick on the straights, and it handles well enough to take corners safely (I think I only copped 3 penalties the entire race, and one was on the very last lap when I mentally clocked out for a bit).

I used to freak out when Gallo would pit, because I would always overtake - but half a lap later, he would overtake me like I was standing still, and I'd never catch up again.

The LP-700 4 has enough grunt to not make this an issue at all.
 
Last edited:
I recently was able to complete this easily with the ‘94 F1 McLaren. TCS 1, ABS & ASM Standard and fuel map 1.

I think I took a screenshot, I’ll post the results as soon as I get back on.

EDIT: Results added, that is with a 5 second penalty. I had to do another race. RH tires, 1 pit stop only for gas.
 

Attachments

  • F7662DFF-D28E-4249-AC7C-78E23BA8F63E.jpeg
    F7662DFF-D28E-4249-AC7C-78E23BA8F63E.jpeg
    79.5 KB · Views: 25
Last edited:
Took the Porsche spider for a run on Tokyo,ballast and ecu to fiddle with the pp.Managed a win by 5 secs but it seemed to understeer quite a lot,maybe messing with ballast and suspension might improve it.Top speed seems to top out at about 177 at this pp level,maybe more fiddling is needed but overall not too bad.
 

Latest Posts

Back