The WTC 600 in Tokyo done without exploits is genuinely one of the hardest races in single player in gt7 - share your setups, tips, and cars

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Just did the race with a tweaked Audi R8 '08. Not a cakewalk, but manageable.
I agree. The R8 is a bit slow. Still, I think it's a very safe car. I tried all 3 types:
SH - No good at all. Too slow.
SM - Somewhat capable, but still slow. Got a win by passing the leader literally in the last lap at the final corners.
SS - This was very pleasant. Tire wear is not that high in default settings so it's easy to do 8 laps. The car handles very nice.

Funny that this car can do 8 laps with SS without problems, which is also the same ammount of laps it can do with SM.

I used to think that SS tires could last for like, 4-5 laps, so I'd need a very fast car for a 2-stop strategy, like the blue NSX does. Last weekend I tried the R8 and the Cayman. Both can do 8 laps without any problems, which kinda makes SM useless for them. :lol:


And speaking of tire wear, I still can't find a good way to minimize tire wear on the R33. The wear on front tires is just insane. :banghead:
 
I agree. The R8 is a bit slow. Still, I think it's a very safe car. I tried all 3 types:
SH - No good at all. Too slow.
SM - Somewhat capable, but still slow. Got a win by passing the leader literally in the last lap at the final corners.
SS - This was very pleasant. Tire wear is not that high in default settings so it's easy to do 8 laps. The car handles very nice.

Funny that this car can do 8 laps with SS without problems, which is also the same ammount of laps it can do with SM.

I used to think that SS tires could last for like, 4-5 laps, so I'd need a very fast car for a 2-stop strategy, like the blue NSX does. Last weekend I tried the R8 and the Cayman. Both can do 8 laps without any problems, which kinda makes SM useless for them. :lol:


And speaking of tire wear, I still can't find a good way to minimize tire wear on the R33. The wear on front tires is just insane. :banghead:
This can do the whole race on SH,pit on lap 8 for fuel only.Like you said,not a cake walk but a nice win anyway.
 
It also takes a lot longer to shift gears. Instead of the click click click from the racing transmission, you can see and feel the clutch slipping.

For the record, I tried the Cappuccino, the AI kicks it around like a rag doll. Back to the Lambo...
I stopped farming cash in this race now and went for sardegna instead.
But still I beated this race with 3 cars without not much of a problem. Manual shift aston martin vgt (its about one of only cars unchanged by the nerf), ferrari enzo (still a beast after the nerf) and aventador SV (had to remove the engine's perma mods to get it bellow 600pp). Used the transmission: manual in the aventador. With the drop in PP you get 20/30 extra hp, or keep the same hp and instead go for racing brakes and clutch.
 
After 1.23 i could win with Huracan GR4 with no stop race leading by 20 seconds and with a praiano Subaru WRX with 1 stop for fuel after lap 7 leading by 19 seconds. Didn't try other cars, but being able to do 0 stops is a huge help in this race.
 
ok the A220 is still alive and kicking at v1.23
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EDIT: I just saw the planned update, this is why I didn't, and will not, post a specific tune for the car. If PD alters the rules on tire changes, full wets will still get me through the race.
I just pulled under 27 minutes in a Ford 1966 GT40 Mk1 widebody. Start the car out running with standard size full wet tires, the grip is amazing and your PP drops with them. Both superchargers and the full customization limited slip punch FAR above their PP cost. You will need the best ECU and a restrictor. Buy ballast if you prefer it. You can win with any of the racing tires by varying the PP to equip them, I think you should buy all of the available tires and try them.
PAY CLOSE ATTENTION TO WHAT TIRES CAN BE EQUIPPED. Remember that the track is drying out, this changes the effectiveness of each type throughout the race. That constant change is allowed for but does not cause PP to change: it is based on what tires you start with. This wouldn't affect the Sardegna race usually since it's always raining there off camera, but bone dry when the cameras, cars, and our disk drives are rolling. Off camera Morn stops by and will NEVER shut up, but the race itself is always dry.
Adding a wide body lowers the risk of a penalty dramatically.
The race is still no cake walk, but my lead times are starting to look the same as Sardegna and Spa.
Widening the GT40 was worth it. I'm going to buy a second one when it comes back to the ripoff dealer. There is a stiffness upgrade that lowers PP but no weight reduction is available.
Remember you can remove stiffness upgrades and weight reduction with a new car body but you can never remove the wide body. You need a new car for that.
 
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Theres a maintainance notice for tomorrow morning,are they going to hobble us again. :lol:
Regarding the alpine,to make this work wont you have to buy a new engine to remove the racing crankshaft that was fitted last time?
 
Theres a maintainance notice for tomorrow morning,are they going to hobble us again. :lol:
Regarding the alpine,to make this work wont you have to buy a new engine to remove the racing crankshaft that was fitted last time?
Regarding the Alpine,i tried the settings but they dont work with the racing crank installed.The tune works on my one without the crank fitted. 👍
 
Glad I bought a spare A220 last LCD posting - although I think someone posted a working tune with crank shaft still installed.
I think the new tune runs on SH instead of RS,i suppose one is a trade off against the other in regards to hp.
 
Theres a maintainance notice for tomorrow morning,are they going to hobble us again. :lol:
Regarding the alpine,to make this work wont you have to buy a new engine to remove the racing crankshaft that was fitted last time?
I just wonder... exactly what is their deal with keeping this race insanely difficult??
 
Update to the GT 40 setup: Fitting certain aero parts from GT Auto will also lower PP. It's not by much but it gets you a couple extra horsepower. It's possible to adjust front and rear downforce, the higher rear downforce helps control oversteer and lowers PP.
I also set the LSD to minimum. It makes sense that the rear tires were twisting and rubbing a little in the turns. While this did nothing to slow the tire wear it made a big difference on the hairpin. I still had to pit at the end of lap 6 for tires. If for some reason full wets are needed to finish the race, they will work. I ran this a couple times as a two stop race and still won by a comfortable margin, so you might be looking at three sets of full wets in this race. I did it with full wets for six laps, then RS for three and RS for another three. Once the track dries out, both full wets and RS tires just fall apart but the GT40 runs through Twisties at 130 MPH, far outpacing everyone else.
Make sure you equip the fully customized LSD, it causes PP to drop.
Also keep in mind my very first win here with the GT40 was with it bone stock running IM tires throughout and one stop. I'm not terribly concerned that this will change.
 
I just wonder... exactly what is their deal with keeping this race insanely difficult??
It's not insanely difficult, here's a win by a minute with a glitch free setup since the change to make suspension and diff settings not affect PP:

 
It's not insanely difficult, here's a win by a minute with a glitch free setup since the change to make suspension and diff settings not affect PP:

To some people it is difficult,it all depends on your driving skill,whats easy for you might not fit the next guy. 👍
 
Glad I bought a spare A220 last LCD posting
Haha same, picked one up recently when it appeared in the UCD cos' I couldn't be bothered paying for a new engine everytime PD decides to patch it.:D

although I think someone posted a working tune with crank shaft still installed.
That might've been me, but that was with the SH tyre tune, whereas this new RS tune should be quicker.
 
Beated this race yesterday with lambo veneno in confort soft tyres. Couldnt get it bellow 600pp any other way because of the perma mods. It was slow but very doable, won with about 20s advantage. Gonna try the same thing with bugatti veyron and ferrari tributo since these 2 are on the 600pp red line aswell.
 
To some people it is difficult,it all depends on your driving skill,whats easy for you might not fit the next guy. 👍
You'd have to be in a pretty low % of players to be more than 5 seconds a lap slower than me. I'm sure there are some people who will find the race difficult, but that doesn't make the race itself insanely difficult if >90% of players are able to win it. I'm probably at least 2 seconds a lap slower than the best in the world would be for this race, so you can win it with a glitch free setup if you're able to drive within 7 seconds a lap of the best in the world. While there may be some people who struggle to do that, it will be a small minority of players who can't get to that level with practice. There have even been people on the GTS forum in the past who have claimed that literally 100% of people can get diamond on the Lewis Hamilton challenges if they practice enough, which is way way harder than winning this race (I think those people are wrong, though).
 
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You'd have to be in a pretty low % of players to be more than 5 seconds a lap slower than me. I'm sure there are some people who will find the race difficult, but that doesn't make the race itself insanely difficult if >90% of players are able to win it. I'm probably at least 2 seconds a lap slower than the best in the world would be for this race, so you can win it with a glitch free setup if you're able to drive within 7 seconds a lap of the best in the world. While there may be some people who struggle to do that, it will be a small minority of players who can't get to that level with practice. There have even been people on the GTS forum in the past who have claimed that literally 100% of people can get diamond on the Lewis Hamilton challenges if they practice enough, which is way way harder than winning this race (I think those people are wrong, though).
Then im one of them players then,theres no way i can finish this race with a glitch free car a minute ahead of 2nd place. :lol:. It doesnt bother me at all,i play the game for me and a win is a win no matter how small the gap.Like i said what is easy for one person doesnt apply to everyone,you like the DP-100 which is a nice grind but i cant match your lap times with it.I still win but not by a massive margin,same as a lot of different cars,all wins but by varying amount.
I cant comment about the Lewis H dlc as i didnt bother with it,im not looking for an argument so you`ll get none from me.👍
 
Used the DP-100 VGT method for the first time. Actually fairly easy to drive the car with manual transmission on a controller via short shifting. Used the Square and Cross buttons to shift while using L2 and R2 for brake and gas.
 

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That might've been me, but that was with the SH tyre tune, whereas this new RS tune should be quicker.
Can you do a no pit race with SH? Because i just tried with RS and had to pit once and almost a second time, because tire wear is high after the track dried.
 
Tried something else which not able to keep their tires without tire saving
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Drove like a person finding water in the desert, the rear tires cool so much HUD become blue and side a bit (not a bad thing for FF)
Front right dropped more than expected need some emergency cooling in the last two laps :scared:


But such extreme tire saving can't save my EK9...
 
First time raced this, struggled a lot to find proper car ;d In the end won with mazda 787b on comfort medium without doing pitstop.
 
I could win on Aston Martin DP-100 with automatic shifting yesterday. Used sports hard and restricted power with ECU and PR, because on comforts it was too unstable for my skill. Also used FM1 on straight to reach at least some top speed and FM3 for rest of course to do a no pit race. Could win by 20ish seconds in front.
 
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I could win on Aston Martin DP-100 with automatic shifting yesterday. Used sports hard and restricted power with ECU and PR, because on comforts it was too unstable for my skill. Also used FM1 on straight to reach at least some top speed and FM3 for rest of course to do a no pit race. Could win by 20ish seconds in front.
When the Suzuki Escudo becomes available again in the LCD, do yourself a favour and buy it. To just grind for credits I prefer an automatic setup that is easy to drive and guarantees a win. @praiano63 has an updated V1.23 tune for it. I Tried it this morning and it is such an easy no stress win. Using auto and FM1 all the way. I Pitted end of lap 8 for new tyres and some fuel. I Won the race on my first try by 1 minute and 7 seconds. It almost feels like cheating. I Made a change on the tune though. I Moved the ballast up to 200kg and raised the power as much as i could while staying under 600pp.
 

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