- 5,494
- Druids Bend
- Z4E_Midnight85
I like the Delta. I'll be trying that one next time I try Tokyo.
Also want to try the R8 and the Nismo 380RS...
The WTC 600 in Tokyo done without exploits is genuinely one of the hardest races in single player in gt7 - share your setups, tips, and cars
- Thread starter The_It_Jojo
- 2,591 comments
- 401,600 views
Also want to try the R8 and the Nismo 380RS...
- 1,673
- UK
Both my Deltas are solid cars,the engine swap version for a comfortable win,either with custom suspension or just stock suspension,reduces the pp to gain some more hp,it still handles fine.The non swap lancia tuned right up for a more involved win,still good.
The Audi R8 with a bit of fuel save tinkerings i found to be great and has a good top speed,but the surprise for me was the TT quattro 3.2.Just under 500hp on SH its a blast to drive,really good through the twisty bits,FM4 or 6,and then FM1 on the straight.I stop only for fuel top up on lap 7 or 8 them FM1 to the finish,the newer TTs coupe is good,as is the engine swap version.
whats your tune on that?
- 1,673
- UK
The only`issue`with the non engine swapped delta is the slight lack of HP,413 is the most ive got on mine,i dont know if there are any special parts available.Its still a winner though,p had to mess with gear ratios to het the best on the straight,as the handling is solid on SH,you can do SM you just need to increase ballast to get below the PP,I choose SH and just stop fro fuel,no tyres.
- 184
- South Africa
- johnson_57
I Get about 295ish kmh down the straight before I abuse the brakes. The good handling and low weight makes up for that on the rest of the track. It has the wide body fitted as well and you have to fit the aero parts to help get the pp down. Don't fit the rear diffuser though, it ad's a lot of pp and for the way I drive it doesn't make a difference at all.
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- 1,673
- UK
Regarding the diffuser,ive tried different cars on time trials with and without it fitted and i honestly cant notice anything different,apart from upping the pp.I know what they are supposed to do irl but doesnt seem to work in the game.
I notice on your tune your weight is 1053kg running SM,if i run SM i need ballast to raise the weight to 1148kg,i have all the same add ons as you.On SH i still need to add a little ballast to make the PP,how strange.
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- 5,494
- Druids Bend
- Z4E_Midnight85
What he's saying is, the tyres which should give a higher PP are giving a lower PP on @johnson_57 tune for the same weight.
I had this same issue, where his tune was showing over 550hp but I can't get mine to be under 600PP if I have more than 493hp...
@johnson_57 , is there anything you do with your tunes which keeps the PP rating down so low? Like, do you have a specific set of steps which gives a lower PP or am I just missing something??
@mynameis66
I ended up on 599.75 with his tune (still not exactly his pp though). You have to use standard tires, not wide ones and you need front + side custom parts, and the type b wing. And it is manual gearbox, not racing. got that wrong at first.
I ended up on 599.75 with his tune (still not exactly his pp though). You have to use standard tires, not wide ones and you need front + side custom parts, and the type b wing. And it is manual gearbox, not racing. got that wrong at first.
- 184
- South Africa
- johnson_57
No, there's no special way or steps. I Always try to install all the removable power upgrades and then lower the power with the ECU and power restrictor. Somehow by doing it that way you usually end up with more power than only using some of them. Did you install the high rpm turbo ?
Regarding the aero parts. The side parts doesn't affect the pp as far as I know. It's only aesthetic and to match with the front and rear. If you fit the front part you can lower the downforce to lower pp. If you fit a wing that is adjustable you can raise the downforce to lower pp. I Seldom use the rear parts and they are not available on all cars anyway. The diffuser looks really cool but ads about 28 points on the pp while giving no aero advantage at all.
It's a nice car and tune, handles really well. Not the fastest, but i could win by 10s lead.
Anyone else thinks AI changed after patch? Usually you could win if you have a RT < 28 min, but now 2nd car often does 27:50 or lower. Also, Gallo now stops three times, no idea if thats always but at least my last 3 or 4 races. And Fraga, in Supra is a lot faster now.
Anyone else thinks AI changed after patch? Usually you could win if you have a RT < 28 min, but now 2nd car often does 27:50 or lower. Also, Gallo now stops three times, no idea if thats always but at least my last 3 or 4 races. And Fraga, in Supra is a lot faster now.
- 5,494
- Druids Bend
- Z4E_Midnight85
I copied everything single setting you had, but couldn't match your power anywhere near. I think I had 626 PP with same power and weight, all same parts. I'll check if I had the rear diffuser fitted. I know it's a wide body, but I don't think that adds more than about 7 PP usually...
- 445
- Australia
Definitely there's change, and I started a separate thread about the AI behaviour, however for the overall Tokyo race time it's more likely an result of the increased tyre wear. Before 1.25 in the Rottuccino I was doing 3 IM + 9 RH but after 1.25 I can't get 9 laps from RH so I'm doing 4 IM + 8 RH. The AI each have their own tyre strategy, so it would affect each of them differently. In one race I noticed the top two AI pitted after lap 11... Awesome strategy
That said, irrespective of everything else, the AI performance is massively variable. Before 1.25 they would regularly do between 27:40 & 27:50 and sometimes around 28:00 (see many previous screenshots in this thread)
Here they are today with 27:47
And also today with a 28:05
So I'm not seeing a consistent increase or decrease in overall race time by the AI
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- 5,494
- Druids Bend
- Z4E_Midnight85
I had a go with the Amuse Nismo 380RS last night, tuned to 599.99 PP, and was hopefully but I think I need some help with the gearbox tune (I'm no pro at that bit by a long way!). Despite having 514 hp, it maxed out around 280 kph. I had a great race though, made a couple of silly mistakes which cost me the win in the end, but finished 2nd, 7 secs behind Kokubun in the RE Amemiya.
It's so planted and nice to drive through the twisty stuff. I was easily making 2-3 sec gains through that section, while losing around the same on the straights.
It's so planted and nice to drive through the twisty stuff. I was easily making 2-3 sec gains through that section, while losing around the same on the straights.
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- 184
- South Africa
- johnson_57
This was some the best fun I have ever had racing Tokyo. Excellent car ! It's not very fast down the straight but man the handling on the rest of the track is just amazing. The tune only allows IM tyres. 8 Laps on the first set then pit for fresh ones and some fuel.
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- 1,673
- UK
I had the same issue,turns out it was the`cat litter tray`diffuser,removed that and pp dropped down.
- 5,494
- Druids Bend
- Z4E_Midnight85
Oh, I'll check that out! Thanks! I didn't think I had it fitted but that might well be the issue.
Thats fast. I tried the car with the same livery there too and coul win, but not with that much lead.
- 1,027
- Portugal
I got the 787b engine swap. Whats the best car to put it in? Rx7 or Rx8?
No idea if it's the patch, but i bought it today, finally, and it has 601pp stock.
I could buy the Evo V today, but honestly it was a horrible experience. I tried your setup, but it is slippery as hell, sliding in every corner, even after i changed to IMs. No fun at all, and also way too slow on the straight, 280km/h means the top drivers all get 2-4 seconds off the straight. This car definately needs a better tune than stock, or a really good driver like you. But it's no fun for me.
- 3,534
- Theresa, Wisconsin
I think there are different scripts for RT and winners. When I race Tokyo my winners are split between Kokobun, Swasillo, and Gallo. Gallo pits first on lap 5, 6, or 7. I have had a RT of 25:30-25:34 and lapped the whole field, lapped all but 2 cars, and lapped all but 6 cars. That's a huge difference for 4 seconds of race time.
- 184
- South Africa
- johnson_57
I've done both and prefer the RX7. Although with my tunes the RX8 has more power and is slightly faster down the straight, I still get better times with the RX7. The RX8 is way more tail happy and also shreds the tyres quicker than the 7.
- 1,818
- Turkey
Yes, it seems like all road cars have more PP now, probably to make up for the grip level that seems to have increased across the board. About two thirds of the cars on my ranking board need to run a harder tyre compound to stay under 600 PP, while the remaining eleven can't be run anymore at all, at least with my specific no tuning-ruleset: The Diablo, Corvette, Viper GTS '13, SLR, Ford GT '06, Nissan GT-R, AMG GT-R, KTM X-Bow and C 63 S and both Hellcat variants are slightly above 600 PP now.No idea if it's the patch, but i bought it today, finally, and it has 601pp stock.
I think I'll just create a new leaderboard whenever there's a new game version for the sake of comparability.
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Well, so now after i finaly got it after weeks of UCD camping, i can't use it anymore.
Oh well, might just buy Ballast and put something on, that's not exactly Tuning i guess.
- 445
- Australia
Surely the concept of refusing to tweak even basic power to weight ratio is denying you a significant enjoyment of the game, considering it's designed completely around a Performance Point system for entry into most events. Why even buy the game, if you're not going to use it as intended?
Do you also refuse to enter into events with Balance of Power turned on?
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- 476
- Tampa, Florida
- Saargasm86
I interpret the ruleset as a way of challenging yourself since the game refuses to add such options.
- 1,818
- Turkey
Not at all. I view it as using the cars at the performance level their manufacturers had in mind when they were designing them. Or at least, trying to stay as close to that as possible. And it's been great fun so far.
Are you assuming that I'm playing the entirety of the game by the rules I've outlined for myself in this particular thread? Because otherwise asking me this question doesn't make sense. And no, I don't refuse entering events with enabled BoP. There are numerous ways to have a good time with GT7 and the way I do it here is just one of them.
- 445
- Australia
Sure, and I think it's a great idea to test the standard car, and even to keep the standard tuning sheet (you can keep multiple tuning sheets)
But if the standard car is useless, why ignore the other half (two thirds/three quarters) of the challenge i.e.
1. Finding a way to power up a car that is uncompetitive in it's standard form, to make it competitive and/or
2. Finding a way to bring a car under the performance restrictions of an event (like Tokyo 600), so it can compete.
3. Finding a way to optimise a cars tuning to produce the fastest possible race time.
Maybe these extra challenges are just to hard for some people
Edit: @Baka_Marimo
I thought you might say that. But there's a problem.... Unfortunately the performance of cars in the game is vastly different to the real world. Anyone who's compared a real world car with the equivalent game car will confirm that the game experience is horrible. I certainly find that for my car. In fact only AFTER installing every power up possible does the game experience start to come close to the real world experience.
This is logical, for a game that is clearly designed for you to purchase upgrades and challenge you to tune your car properly. Even ignoring the microtransaction discussion; the in-game economy, tuning shop, tuning sheets and event criteria clearly expects you to upgrade and tune your car, so it makes sense that the majority of standard cars (as purchased) are given to you in sub-optimal condition.
Note: This is not the case for VGT and F1 cars where tuning is not possible, in which case you do get to buy a standard car that is "at the performance level their manufacturers had in mind", in which case that brings us to point 2 of my comment above.
Again, I understand the satisfaction of trying the car in standard form, I just don't understand why anyone would refuse to add 1kg ballast (for example) to make that car eligible for an event, or more importantly, tinker with the suspension to make it enjoyable to drive
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- 888
- United States
It never left.
I'll explain. For a game with 400+ cars and so many different ways to customize them, there would have to be a massive database to cover every possible setup for each car. I think it's done by an algorithm. Either way, the system makes mistakes. They seem more common with engine swapped cars.
It seems to start at the upper left of the settings sheet when adding up PP. It also seems to be less refined for parts you're not as likely to use like the stock transmission or a sports muffler, etc. I find the PP system generates fewer glitches or the ! when I have the "best" parts installed, especially with racing tires, mufflers, and air filters.
Get a relatively unused car, mismatch a tire set, say CH on front and RH on back, and you may get a ! for PP. If you're lucky, you'll get a number that actually drops when you go from CH to SH and then RH rear tires. If not, try installing a widebody kit and experiment with rim width, stance, and diameter until the PP rating becomes unstable on the tuning sheet. In some cases you don't need to mismatch the tires at all, the PP will destabilize without it, allowing you a multi stop race.
It helps to have aero parts. all the computers, a restrictor, and ballast available. You'd think with the same front to rear weight balance and the same HP to weight ratio the PP would be close. Not always. I've seen switching those settings up cut the PP in half. My 1.24 2J tune relied on something simar to get under 600 PP: the better computers can cut power output or have better power curves, but they add a set amount of additional PP. Transmissions are similar. If a stock part gives you satisfactory performance, use it even if you can't adjust it. On the 2J, I used the stock computer to free up 10-15 PP and then opened the restrictor up a little more.
Once you get parts on that generate odd changes in PP (or a !), start messing with the computer and restrictor. Set both to 70, then go step by step with one of them from 70-100 to see where the PP dips unexpectedly. Now increase the one to 71, rinse and repeat. When finished, try it the other way. If you started turning up the computer the first time, this time turn up the restrictor first.
When you set your downforce, also go step by step to see where PP dips.
Try changing other parts like the turbo, muffler, and filter.
Eventually you'll at least find settings where PP is lowest for a given set of parts, and if you're lucky, at some point it'll plummet to something crazy like 273.
If you start getting !, keep trying, as you're close to any available glitch tune.
Now, all that said, I don't care what you do with this info offline or where you post it or any results you get. By all means, grind with it. I do ask that you not apply it to online races or any single player events that award prizes outside of the game.
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