The WTC 600 in Tokyo done without exploits is genuinely one of the hardest races in single player in gt7 - share your setups, tips, and cars

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Well, so now after i finaly got it after weeks of UCD camping, i can't use it anymore. :D

Oh well, might just buy Ballast and put something on, that's not exactly Tuning i guess.
Its still a winner on Tokyo,you need to mess about with ballast and position to get the pp right,also manual cust trans needs a bit of tinkering to get the best.
 
Its still a winner on Tokyo
Yes, i could win with 20kg ballast all to the front, nothing else. Now I'm gonna use praianos tune and try again, to see what i like more. The stock tune was okay, but a bit slippery too, at least the first half of the race, i was far from the 27 minute mark.
Finding a way to power up a car that is uncompetitive in it's standard form
Thing about this is, to see if they really are uncompetitive, and as his list shows, many cars can win even on stock settings, which is quite a nice experience and got me surprised.
 
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Thing about this is, to see if they really are uncompetitive, and as his list shows, many cars can win even on stock settings, which is quite a nice experience and got me surprised.

Ah, I was forgetting about his list! Well yes it certainly does make sense if you want to make a list of times the cars can do in their "standard" form, for the Tokyo grind. And it would be even more useful to add a column to include what times the same cars could do at the PP limit. So conceptually the list could eventually include every car that is capable of competing, along with the associated times, which would be a useful reference for everyone.

Edit: Cost of car + cost of required tuning might also be interesting for the data crunchers amongst us
 
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So, last night I tried the Amuse Nismo 380RS and narrowly missed out on a win. So I tried again tonight, but gave the car a little ballast to bring the weight up to 1250kg, and brought the rear downforce down, giving me 600.00 PP exactly. I also tweaked the gearing a little shorter as it wasn't reaching as far as I had expected. This helped me to use FM2 and stretch out my stint but maintain my lap times.

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End result: a narrow win (<7s) over Suswillo, and an absolutely awesome race! The 380RS might just be one of my biggest surprises so far in this game. I'm loving it!

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I haven't seen this car mentioned yet in the thread... The Group B Mustang!

Just to contextualise: I really don't like Mustangs so I approached this one with low expectations.

Expected: Obviously, considering it's a group B car, it has lots of power, and 4x4 of course, but I was expecting it to be heavy, and thus difficult to manage through the corners and consume a lot of fuel & tyres. However I hoped that the straight line speed would make up for these deficiencies.

Actual: The handling is DIVINE and the car is much faster than the AI through the corners, only to be slower on the straight (approx 280 km/hr)! BUT fuel consumption and tyre wear are both good and the GrB Mustang can easily win, and can complete 12 laps without pitting.

Also it's very easy to get under 600 PP, just fit Sports Hard tyres, set top speed to 320 km/hr, and away you go!!

With a little further tuning it can do lap times in the 2:09s and overall race time under 26:30, lapping some of the AI.

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I use RH on the back, and tuned the suspension and downforce for a balance between handling and top speed.

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Race Strategy:
Stability on the first lap is tricky, as always, so I recommend to either turn on Countersteering assist or just be super careful with your brake & throttle application. I did win races with both SH tyres and RH (back only) and without any assists, so it's up to you what's most comfortable.

For the first lap set Torque Distribution to 50:50 and Brake Balance to 2, to keep the rear stable. From lap 2 onwards, set Torque to 30:70 and BB to 5 (rear) for even tyre wear, otherwise the 4x4 will chew through the fronts quickly.

Shift gears around 7,000 or 7,500 rpm to save fuel and stay near the peak power/torque. Therefore for automatic gearbox users, this car is unfortunately impractical, and anyway it's impossible to convince it to change into 6th on the straight and it drops gears mid corner (not cool).
 
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Trying different cars out, this Jaguar XJ13 '66 is pretty fun around here with a controller. It went faster after this vid (27:33.xxx) with lower down force and lower gearing. Could do a no-stop race with SM tires probably. Or be faster overall with SH tires and more power and also do a no-stop race. That was first try in vid, slow down the straight but fun and pretty fast in the corners.

pic is setup that was a little quicker than in vid. Still a slow setup for this car I'm sure. It could probably be pretty quick.
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I use RH on the back
Does this do anything? I mean, there is probably a reason, why using RH on the back costs so few PP, because it doesn't matter that much? i can think of it being good on FR or RR cars, so your acceleration has more grip, at least after the track is dry. But on on 4WD?
 
Does this do anything? I mean, there is probably a reason, why using RH on the back costs so few PP, because it doesn't matter that much? i can think of it being good on FR or RR cars, so your acceleration has more grip, at least after the track is dry. But on on 4WD?

Yes. It's faster by about 2 seconds per lap.

Here's the screenshot of SH-SH. The lap times are 2:11 to 2:12 whereas SH-RH was 2:09 to 2:10

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The Gr B Mustang (in this configuration) tends to slide the back of the car, both under brakes and acceleration. The RH on the back have more grip after the track dries (lap 2 onwards), so you can push a little harder in acceleration, comfortably use BB 5 (to the back) without sliding and to even out the tyre wear, and you can even run less downforce on the back to help the top speed.

Remember that you can adjust Torque Distribution so with RH on the back I could comfortably use 30:70 (driving the back wheels more) whereas with SH it felt more comfortable with 40:60 to avoid oversteer. At 40:60 the front tyres wear faster and will give you trouble in the final few laps.
 
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With the new PP adjustments, I managed 2:05 and 2:06 lap times in an Aston Martin DP-100 VGT.

Also had fun with the V8 ND Miata, just no supercharger though. Produced the same lap times.
Nice Aston laps. Before the last update I was able to hit mid 2:03's with the DP100, I can only run mid 2:04's right now and that's only a handful of laps where it's possible, laps 5-8 usually, too early and it's too wet, too late and front tire wear is too bad. I have 2 DP100's, one with max ballast so I can run more power, one with about 160k ballast so I have to reduce power, they both seem to lap about the same.
 
Nice Aston laps. Before the last update I was able to hit mid 2:03's with the DP100, I can only run mid 2:04's right now and that's only a handful of laps where it's possible, laps 5-8 usually, too early and it's too wet, too late and front tire wear is too bad. I have 2 DP100's, one with max ballast so I can run more power, one with about 160k ballast so I have to reduce power, they both seem to lap about the same.
I was testing the DP100 before this last update in different configurations to find fastest way and most comfortable way as well.

High Ballast, High Power - Thought this would be the way, but nope! I get faster lap times with ballast somewhere around 50/-35 and lower power. Lose a few MPH on the straight, but the handling is dramatically better with little ballast and can do middle section and hairpin turn a bit quicker.

That being said, my FL is generally low 2:07, sometimes high 2:06 - so you two are getting around quicker lol.
 
Had a bash today with the NSX GrB rally car,i dont tend to use rally cars on Tokyo as they dont seem to have a massive top speed for the HP they make,this one tops out at just over 185mph.I added high rpm turbo,manual cust transmission and SH.Adjusted ballast to up the weight but keep the power,around the twistys it was planted but a little oversteer under braking.This can peobably be tuned out but i just lived with it,FM1 all the way,pit at the end of lap 9 for a splash of fuel no tyrse,`comfy`win for me.
 
It never left.

I'll explain. For a game with 400+ cars and so many different ways to customize them, there would have to be a massive database to cover every possible setup for each car. I think it's done by an algorithm. Either way, the system makes mistakes. They seem more common with engine swapped cars.
It seems to start at the upper left of the settings sheet when adding up PP. It also seems to be less refined for parts you're not as likely to use like the stock transmission or a sports muffler, etc. I find the PP system generates fewer glitches or the ! when I have the "best" parts installed, especially with racing tires, mufflers, and air filters.
Get a relatively unused car, mismatch a tire set, say CH on front and RH on back, and you may get a ! for PP. If you're lucky, you'll get a number that actually drops when you go from CH to SH and then RH rear tires. If not, try installing a widebody kit and experiment with rim width, stance, and diameter until the PP rating becomes unstable on the tuning sheet. In some cases you don't need to mismatch the tires at all, the PP will destabilize without it, allowing you a multi stop race.
It helps to have aero parts. all the computers, a restrictor, and ballast available. You'd think with the same front to rear weight balance and the same HP to weight ratio the PP would be close. Not always. I've seen switching those settings up cut the PP in half. My 1.24 2J tune relied on something simar to get under 600 PP: the better computers can cut power output or have better power curves, but they add a set amount of additional PP. Transmissions are similar. If a stock part gives you satisfactory performance, use it even if you can't adjust it. On the 2J, I used the stock computer to free up 10-15 PP and then opened the restrictor up a little more.
Once you get parts on that generate odd changes in PP (or a !), start messing with the computer and restrictor. Set both to 70, then go step by step with one of them from 70-100 to see where the PP dips unexpectedly. Now increase the one to 71, rinse and repeat. When finished, try it the other way. If you started turning up the computer the first time, this time turn up the restrictor first.
When you set your downforce, also go step by step to see where PP dips.
Try changing other parts like the turbo, muffler, and filter.
Eventually you'll at least find settings where PP is lowest for a given set of parts, and if you're lucky, at some point it'll plummet to something crazy like 273.
If you start getting !, keep trying, as you're close to any available glitch tune.
Now, all that said, I don't care what you do with this info offline or where you post it or any results you get. By all means, grind with it. I do ask that you not apply it to online races or any single player events that award prizes outside of the game.
You do realize, those are millions of possibilities to "try out"? :D

I don't have fun with that, to be honest.
 
@Habla2k.Was it you who tried the Subaru GrB rally car?If so,what sort of top speed did you manage?For some of the rally cars with upwards of 600hp their top speeds are not great.For example,R35 running 550hp and 1770kg i can hit 200mph before braking,but the NSX GrB i mentioned in my last post struggled to get past 180,despite being less weight and more hp.I realise rally cars and street cars are worlds apart but surely with gearbox tinkering it would allow a better speed,i fiddled with ratios,lowered downforce but still couldnt get speeds that i would like.A simiair case with the S15 touring car.Just curious.
 
I could buy the Evo V today, but honestly it was a horrible experience. I tried your setup, but it is slippery as hell, sliding in every corner, even after i changed to IMs. No fun at all, and also way too slow on the straight, 280km/h means the top drivers all get 2-4 seconds off the straight. This car definately needs a better tune than stock, or a really good driver like you. But it's no fun for me. :(
It's definitely different now.

You can feel the tires spinning way more than they should, right?? Tried last night and it was not fun. Way to sensitive.

I had the same problem with the R33. Car was simply all over the place. For this one I did tune the LSD and it's miles better now. I might work on LSD settings for the Evo.
 
You do realize, those are millions of possibilities to "try out"? :D

I don't have fun with that, to be honest.
I was throwing some numbers around in a post back when Tomahawk 2.0 came out looking for a tune with both CM & CS (which had all the suspension and diff settings being factored) and if you did one adjustment per second 24/7/365, it would take hundreds of years. With suspension and diff removed it might only take decades vs centuries lol
 
It's definitely different now.

You can feel the tires spinning way more than they should, right?? Tried last night and it was not fun. Way to sensitive.

I had the same problem with the R33. Car was simply all over the place. For this one I did tune the LSD and it's miles better now. I might work on LSD settings for the Evo.
I find the Evo`s to be on par with the Subaru`s,once you tinker with the gearing they are fine on the straight.Ive never ran them with IM as it uses too much pp,i always us SH,take it steady for the first lap then settle into your own pace.
 
I was testing the DP100 before this last update in different configurations to find fastest way and most comfortable way as well.

High Ballast, High Power - Thought this would be the way, but nope! I get faster lap times with ballast somewhere around 50/-35 and lower power. Lose a few MPH on the straight, but the handling is dramatically better with little ballast and can do middle section and hairpin turn a bit quicker.

That being said, my FL is generally low 2:07, sometimes high 2:06 - so you two are getting around quicker lol.
So you are running 50KG of ballast and reducing the power to get below 600pp?? I will have to give that a try over the weekend. You tend to get pretty efficient with a combination when you have ran over 9,000 miles with it. It took me almost 2 weeks to get back to my normal lap times in the DP100 after driving the Tomohawk for a month or more.
 
I'm slowly working my way through all the manufacturers and buying the cars and then trying to use at least most of them. I'm up to Aston Martin, and I currently have one: the V12 Vantage GT3. My plan tonight is one run at Sardegna (should be a relatively simple win) and to then buy the DB11 and V8 Vantage S, then use one - or both - of those two at Tokyo to grind credits for the DP-100... Question: has anyone run either of those two Aston Martins and which one is the stronger contender at Tokyo?
 
I think i did a stock DB11 race, maybe changed tires to come closer to 600pp. And i think it was an okay win with around 10s lead.
The DB11 is my first choice. Simply because it's the more straightforward tune (like you say). Interested to know if people have used the V8 Vantage and won.

EDIT: searching through this thread it appears the V8 Vantage is on the list of winning cars (all the way back in May!) as is the DB11, so both are viable options. I'll report back tonight if I find otherwise!
 
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Just for fun i dropped the hp down to 460,used IM and added ballast to make the pp,ends up 1174kg or thereabouts.FM1 all the way,pit at end of lap 7 for more IM,then all the way to the finish,its a blast on a wet/drying track,but the 2nd stint on IM makes it slightly unstable.I tried it on SS but to be honest i prefer the IM,each to there own i guess. 👍

Im so sorry for not putting the name of the vehicle,this is for the Imprezza 22b.must have had a senior moment.
 
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New Maserati test drive
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Perform well without much adjustment and price so low I can buy a bunch of them for custom race


Again time for something naughty
I was thinking about by wall riding the first two corners you earn so much pace, could that advantage big enough you can win even driving in the slower way like drifting ?:P
For high speed drifting while maintaining competitive lap times i think 4WD is the better choice. (And easier to control)
Tried R35 but fuel efficiency not so good and didn't go fast enough.
Found something else with more rear traction hope for more speed.

I know I'm not a good drifter there are many wall contact and errors.
But enjoy sliding around :D
 
The DB11 is my first choice. Simply because it's the more straightforward tune (like you say). Interested to know if people have used the V8 Vantage and won.

EDIT: searching through this thread it appears the V8 Vantage is on the list of winning cars (all the way back in May!) as is the DB11, so both are viable options. I'll report back tonight if I find otherwise!
So I had a go in the DB11 using Praiano's tune, modified slightly. I opted for more power (436hp, not 358hp like his tune) and a bit more weight. It's an absolute gem to drive, once you work out the balance. I was very slow for the first 4 laps or so, getting used to where I can actually push versus where it will just fire you into the outside wall. But once I got the hang of it I was putting together 2:13's and 2:14's regularly. I ended up taking 4th, about 8s behind the lead cars and right on the tail of Kokubun in the RE Amemiya (which I have now managed to win in, and love driving!). I went for some time trials after that run and decided to bin the rear wing and reduce front downforce to bring the PP back down under 600PP. Downforce now 80 F, 80 R and it's still stable enough to push hard through the twisty bits and it's about 8 kph faster on the straight - all adds up to a 2s reduction in lap time! So I'll be running the DB11 again tonight when I'm back on, and hoping to extract a win from it this time...
 
Try stock tune with SM or SH Tires (SM was possible before patch, no idea now). Should get you a win too.
Already installed Weight Reduction 1 and 2 and a Wide Body kit... But I am buying another one (long story, but the interior is a horrible colour combo!) so I'll try that out before I tune that one!
 
I know they have increased tyre wear in Tokyo,so been doing some testing with different cars and tyres.By the start of lap 10 my rear tyres were all red and i still managed to maintain a decent pace,no slithering around like before the update,this was in the LS7 engine swap silvia running RH on rears.Similair results with my Delta HF.The RX7 on RH,prior to the update,when the tyres went red it was instant no grip,you were stuffed.Is this intentional or a bug?Me personally i would be happy if they left it as it is now,but this is PD. :lol:
 
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