The WTC 600 in Tokyo done without exploits is genuinely one of the hardest races in single player in gt7 - share your setups, tips, and cars

[Mudda Chod]

I just tried a couple of time trial runs on my lunch break with a quick build Delta GT-R... I'm rusty at this track, so my times aren't great, but a wet lap was 2:35 and a dry lap was 2:13. Are those laps reasonable times or is the Delta going to need some tuning to keep up / win? Speed maxed out at 293 kph / 182 mph.

You can win with those times.

 

[Habla2k]

I just tried a couple of time trial runs on my lunch break with a quick build Delta GT-R... I'm rusty at this track, so my times aren't great, but a wet lap was 2:35 and a dry lap was 2:13. Are those laps reasonable times or is the Delta going to need some tuning to keep up / win? Speed maxed out at 293 kph / 182 mph.

With no stops thats a win, 1 stop could be close, i guess around 5-15s lead.

 

[MidnightRun85]

You can win with those times.
View attachment 1201867

With no stops thats a win, 1 stop could be close, i guess around 5-15s lead.

Awesome! I'll give the Delta a go tonight and try keep the thing out of the walls! Thanks guys. I'll post results when I've run it and worked out what works and what doesn't.

 

[shadow0460]

Wet laps should be around 2:13. 2:06 is good for dry if you can get it, it'll give you about a 1 minute win.
Try to stay ahead of Hizal and Kokubun up to your pit stop, then again after they stop. Suswilo usually pitted twice in 1.24, Gallo woukdvusyally put twice in 1.24 also. If Gallo misses a pit stop he will not slow down, lose control, or run out of gas. He'll pit on the next lap, though, and then after another five laps.

Okay, so my engine-swapped options might be the starting point for me then. Is the Nismo-swapped Delta also capable of a one-stop??

Try some of the Lamborghini and Ferrari models. Those were running the factory installed engines for several players while the game was on 1.24.
I tried it with the F-XX-K again yesterday. At first that car is blindingly fast but when the KERS runs out of power, the car's just done.

Does this include your 2J tune?If that was a glitch fair enough,if its a legit tune why not share it with eveyone?

My 2J tune is a bit weird. I can run CH tires on the front and RH tires on the back and be slightly under 600 PP. If I switch to RM on the rear, PP drops by 1 point or so. The car handles well either way and the PP difference isn't enough to make any other changes.
I ran out of time before server maintenance, was pushing hard for the McLaren.
I also need to do some minor housekeeping in my YouTube channel, then I'll put up what I have for the rappucino (Cauupcino w/13 B engine), the 26B swapped RX-7, and the near-stock Murceilago. In fact, the Murceilago race is uploaded to YouTube already with settings highlighted. An RX-7 tune is up also, the main difference is the latest one switches SH rear tires for RH rear tires.
Tryin to think here ...
On the 2J:
I didn't buy anything from GT Auto. I bought as much as I could from Understeer, though.
I'm running minimum ride height, no camber or toe on either axle, CH tires out front, RM tires on the rear, and 5, 5, and 5 on the LSD (I forget which one gives the least PP though). Next column there's no downforce adjustments, I'm running the stock ECM, have ballast, and am running the restrictor at either 70 or 71. The transmission is the fully customizable manual set to around 310, IIRC. Everything else is bone stock.
From there, set the ballast position to -50, the restrictor to 70, and add ballast until you get just below 600PP. Reduce ballast a step at a time for at least 15 steps because PP may drop back below 600 with less junk on board. Once you find the amount of ballast you need, set the restrictor to 71 and add a little more to get back under 600 PP.
Here's the catch, though: you will not be allowed to change tires at all during the race. RH tires will barely wear at all, RM's will wear down some but have plenty of grip, and the CH front tires won't wear much at all.
If you don't feel fair running RM tires due to the PP drop, keep in mind it may be because they wear faster, or switch to RH.
In the race, I prefer to keep brake balance at 0. Set the fuel map to 4 and leave it. Set TCS to 2, then after lap 3, turn TCS off. Watch your throttle coming out if the final hairpin. Other than that, you should win against easy AI by 10-20 seconds.

 

[MidnightRun85]

Wet laps should be around 2:13. 2:06 is good for dry if you can get it, it'll give you about a 1 minute win.

Is that with SH tyres? I was sliding all over the place in those and only managed a 2:35 - but that was a very wet lap, not sure if that makes any difference in this case. I doubt I'll find 7 seconds worth of dry track pace. I'll definitely be able to find 2-3 seconds, but not sure I'll see anything below a 2:10 with the Delta. I'll give it a bash tonight and see what I can do...

Pit: end of lap 7? End of lap 8? What's the general strategy people choose here?

 

[shadow0460]

Is that with SH tyres? I was sliding all over the place in those and only managed a 2:35 - but that was a very wet lap, not sure if that makes any difference in this case. I doubt I'll find 7 seconds worth of dry track pace. I'll definitely be able to find 2-3 seconds, but not sure I'll see anything below a 2:10 with the Delta. I'll give it a bash tonight and see what I can do...

Pit: end of lap 7? End of lap 8? What's the general strategy people choose here?

I've run 2:05 with RH on the rear in other cars. With the 2J tune posted above you wouldn't need a pit stop in version 1.24. I haven't played since this morning's update.
I never could do well in this race with sports tires on the drive wheels. The first time I tried the 2J was with all CH's and it was an ice rink.
My very first win here involved mixing tire compounds on the RX-7. I had CH front and SH back and it was touch and go. You can start off with different compounds on the front and back but you won't be able to replace them. It'll offer you the "cheapest" tires...if any at all.
My overall advice is to get racing tires even if it costs you speed or power.
If you're planning a pit stop due to tire wear, I'd plan the first one at the end of lap 6 and the second one if you need it at the end of lap 9. This might be eliminated with a harder tire compound.
If fuel is the limiting factor and tires are lasting through the race, I'd plan to stop at the end of lap 8 or 9 after running a higher fuel map, then switch to FM1 after the stop and blaze to the end.

The things I think are important are: Top speed at least 195 mph on the main straight, average speed of 110 mph through the S turns, and excellent corner exit speeds. If you get two of those three, you will win.
For a while I had a tune that wouldn't accelerate for anything but the car stuck to the road like glue and, once it got to speed, regularly hit 150 through the S bends and 201 on the straight. I used another tune (not mine) that could hit 400 on the main straight, hold 130 through the S turns, but would spin 6-8 times and rack up a 30 second penalty if I blinked. I read many posts saying people had success with that tune, I didn't though.
Last bit of advice: run the track a lot. If you have the F-XX-K, get it out and run the race a few times with it, stopping every 3-4 laps for fuel. I never could win with that car but it'll teach you the Tokyo track and the car.. and that car can decimate the Ferrari specific events.

 

[Saargasm]

You assume I didn't feed the profile a line of bull, and you assume I care what you think about me or my tuning, which I don't.
Stop thinking you're entitled to every exploit in the game; you're not. You're not entitled to any number of credits or cars. In fact, you're not entitled to anything at all.

Going back to the race, I'm still going to try and post more tunes for it. They'll be uploaded as part of videos taken on my PS5. I may get similar results to what's been posted with some of them, but I'm going to try it anyway.

Shadow, you got a lot of anger in you my friend. Be happy. No one is attacking you or forcing you to do anything. It should be apparent though that being braggadocios about a "glitch" tune you found and then immediately saying you're keeping it secret - when at that point no one was asking for it - just comes off as eye-rolling and attention seeking behavior. It comes off as using "trust me bro" as backup to a claim

 

[mynameis66]

Wet laps should be around 2:13. 2:06 is good for dry if you can get it, it'll give you about a 1 minute win.
Try to stay ahead of Hizal and Kokubun up to your pit stop, then again after they stop. Suswilo usually pitted twice in 1.24, Gallo woukdvusyally put twice in 1.24 also. If Gallo misses a pit stop he will not slow down, lose control, or run out of gas. He'll pit on the next lap, though, and then after another five laps.


Try some of the Lamborghini and Ferrari models. Those were running the factory installed engines for several players while the game was on 1.24.
I tried it with the F-XX-K again yesterday. At first that car is blindingly fast but when the KERS runs out of power, the car's just done.


My 2J tune is a bit weird. I can run CH tires on the front and RH tires on the back and be slightly under 600 PP. If I switch to RM on the rear, PP drops by 1 point or so. The car handles well either way and the PP difference isn't enough to make any other changes.
I ran out of time before server maintenance, was pushing hard for the McLaren.
I also need to do some minor housekeeping in my YouTube channel, then I'll put up what I have for the rappucino (Cauupcino w/13 B engine), the 26B swapped RX-7, and the near-stock Murceilago. In fact, the Murceilago race is uploaded to YouTube already with settings highlighted. An RX-7 tune is up also, the main difference is the latest one switches SH rear tires for RH rear tires.
Tryin to think here ...
On the 2J:
I didn't buy anything from GT Auto. I bought as much as I could from Understeer, though.
I'm running minimum ride height, no camber or toe on either axle, CH tires out front, RM tires on the rear, and 5, 5, and 5 on the LSD (I forget which one gives the least PP though). Next column there's no downforce adjustments, I'm running the stock ECM, have ballast, and am running the restrictor at either 70 or 71. The transmission is the fully customizable manual set to around 310, IIRC. Everything else is bone stock.
From there, set the ballast position to -50, the restrictor to 70, and add ballast until you get just below 600PP. Reduce ballast a step at a time for at least 15 steps because PP may drop back below 600 with less junk on board. Once you find the amount of ballast you need, set the restrictor to 71 and add a little more to get back under 600 PP.
Here's the catch, though: you will not be allowed to change tires at all during the race. RH tires will barely wear at all, RM's will wear down some but have plenty of grip, and the CH front tires won't wear much at all.
If you don't feel fair running RM tires due to the PP drop, keep in mind it may be because they wear faster, or switch to RH.
In the race, I prefer to keep brake balance at 0. Set the fuel map to 4 and leave it. Set TCS to 2, then after lap 3, turn TCS off. Watch your throttle coming out if the final hairpin. Other than that, you should win against easy AI by 10-20 seconds.

Yeah,understeer not gt auto.lol
The 2J im going to give a whirl later on,thanks for the tips,as for the RX7.thats dead in the water for me.The majority of FR cars i cant get on with very well,though i have had success with the Supra RZ but thats it.My goto cars are the A45 amg,R32,33 and the Lancia Delta,with the engine swap and with the standard tuned engine.Both are good for me.The Lambos i used are safe wins,with only stopping for fuel not tyres,i always run SH as i can make them last.I dont chase fast laps so i am quite gentle on tyres,however i tried the castrol Toms on CM/RH with 745hp the tyres didnt last for me. 👍

 

[Habla2k]

Try the Evo V or the Evo VI with RH. Should give you a good idea about why trading speed for grip can be a good strategy for this race. They can achive a total time of 27:10-27:20.

The Evo V can win with only* using RH, but if you want to use upgrades, I had a 26:57 time with the following mods:
Fully Custom ECU, Weight Reduction level 1, Racing Filters, Racing Intercooler and Sports Silencer. No changes to the suspension or LSD.
*The default gearbox goes only to 240 km/h, so you need to buy a normal Custom Gearbox. I think the fully custom racing gearbox puts the car above 600pp, might need to check that. Set it to 320 km/h (no need to change each gear).

The Evo V is fast and stable on corners and you don't even need to do a pitstop because tires can last the whole race. Do the first lap in FM 6 and then you can switch back to FM 1 for the rest of the race.

No idea if the Evo 5 is much different, but i tried this with the evo 6 and it wasn't great. On RH it is sliding like hell in the corners, i thought maybe its the wet track but even on lap 4 it still slides around. Will try praianos 600pp tune on the Evo 6, and try your idea when i get the 5.

 

[MidnightRun85]

Is that with SH tyres? I was sliding all over the place in those and only managed a 2:35 - but that was a very wet lap, not sure if that makes any difference in this case. I doubt I'll find 7 seconds worth of dry track pace. I'll definitely be able to find 2-3 seconds, but not sure I'll see anything below a 2:10 with the Delta. I'll give it a bash tonight and see what I can do...

Pit: end of lap 7? End of lap 8? What's the general strategy people choose here?

Yeah, so I remember why I hate this circuit. It's absolute dogs balls.

First attempt was with the RE Amemiya FD3S. 10th, 48s behind P1.

Second attempt was in the Delta and the amount of understeer is just ludicrous with the damage and penalty model here. Just when I started catching up I'd nudge a wall or smack a wall and end up falling way off the pace. Screwed up the pit strategy too in a panic off a 5s penalty and had to pit twice! Ended 9th, 40s from P1.

I hate this circuit.

 

[Habla2k]

I hate this circuit.

Try Praianos R8 or Subaru 99 tune, or use the huracan gr4 with no stops. But yes damage is hard. Cars constantly turning to one side because a tire is damaged sucks lol. Penalty for me is almost always a no win race and i quit. only glitch tunes or no stops i have enough lead to counter a penalty.

What i dislike the most about tokyo is, that you often need to drive 4 or 5 laps to see if you can win or not with a car. Takes so much time.

 

[KAlex122]

Yeah, try the Audi R8 from Praiano. Best between easy driving and good lap time. Was the first time that i didn't hate Tokyo.

 

[MidnightRun85]

Try Praianos R8 or Subaru 99 tune, or use the huracan gr4 with no stops. But yes damage is hard. Cars constantly turning to one side because a tire is damaged sucks lol. Penalty for me is almost always a no win race and i quit. only glitch tunes or no stops i have enough lead to counter a penalty.

What i dislike the most about tokyo is, that you often need to drive 4 or 5 laps to see if you can win or not with a car. Takes so much time.

Yeah, try the Audi R8 from Praiano. Best between easy driving and good lap time. Was the first time that i didn't hate Tokyo.

Okay I'll give the R8 a try tonight then. I do quite like my R8, but I think it's currently set up for this week's Daily Race A...

The most annoying thing with this race is the combo of damage and time penalties. I mean, why do we need a 5s time penalty when our car is put into limp mode from hitting a wall anyway? It's just making it even more difficult when you make a judgement error and collect a wall, already putting you off the pace and the damage slows you down for the next 30s or so - why add a 5s penalty which then effectively ends your race anyway? So frustrating!

 

[Habla2k]

why add a 5s penalty which then effectively ends your race anyway

To make it harder. This race you need to do 12 laps with little to no mistakes. Really hurts when you get a penalty in lap 9 or something. Also because the rewards for 2nd or lower are a lot less.

 

[MidnightRun85]

To make it harder. This race you need to do 12 laps with little to no mistakes. Really hurts when you get a penalty in lap 9 or something. Also because the rewards for 2nd or lower are a lot less.

Or on lap 10 and then 11 like I did last night while sitting in 6th, 8s off the lead... 🤦‍♂️

 

[johnson_57]

is the no-stop strategy still viable

• 787B-swapped RX-7 Spirit R
• 787B-swapped RX-8 Spirit R

Here are the two Mazda's. I tried them last night to see if they still work. No stops on SH tyres. I See the pp on both these cars has jumped up by 3 points after this mornings update. They are slowly sucking the fun out of this game with every new update. I Can post the tunes if you are interested.

 

[MidnightRun85]

Here are the two Mazda's. I tried them last night to see if they still work. No stops on SH tyres. I See the pp on both these cars has jumped up by 3 points after this mornings update. They are slowly sucking the fun out of this game with every new update. I Can post the tunes if you are interested.

Yes please, any tuning help would be greatly appreciated! Hopefully the PP adjustments haven't killed their capability to win...

 

[Habla2k]

Did they change any general rules about the pp system? 3 points is not that much. Not like last time with 1.23.

 

[mynameis66]

Did they change any general rules about the pp system? 3 points is not that much. Not like last time with 1.23.

My subaru 22b and the`99 version both jumped upto around 637pp,they both needed an extra 200kg of ballast to bring them back down to 600pp.Strangley thought the Escude stays the same.Who makes these decisions and what are they based on?The game has become a chore.

 

[Mudda Chod]

To make it harder. This race you need to do 12 laps with little to no mistakes. Really hurts when you get a penalty in lap 9 or something. Also because the rewards for 2nd or lower are a lot less.

I spun out on the final corner (after the haipin) on Lap 12 when I was on my fastest ever race time.... Hit the wall, killed every part of the car and the engine, oh and after turning the car around and hitting the other wall + 15 seconds of penalty

 

[MidnightRun85]

I spun out on the final corner (after the haipin) on Lap 12 when I was on my fastest ever race time.... Hit the wall, killed every part of the car and the engine, oh and after turning the car around and hitting the other wall + 15 seconds of penalty

And did you still win?

It seems a bit mad the way they apply a penalty when you have: loss of time for loss of momentum, loss of pace from damage, potentially loss of track position in the incident. PD logic: let's penalise them for wall riding, because that's clearly the intention when you smack a wall at nearly 90 degrees...

 

[Mudda Chod]

And did you still win?

Yeah because over 2 min lead at the end, with the Rottuccino

 

[Pizzicato1985]

I don't really run this race but I noticed that the new Maserati Merak SS can be glitched about 80-90PP lower by adding front splitter/wing and setting downforce to 50/87 with sports mediums and 50/90 with sports hards. This with all the weight removed, all reversible power parts added, medium turbo, and no ballast.

Not sure if that would be of any help but there might be a way to get a massive PP drop with race hards, inters, etc so I thought I'd throw it out there to anyone that might want to investigate for a possible glitch-car for this race.

 

[DK]

And did you still win?

It seems a bit mad the way they apply a penalty when you have: loss of time for loss of momentum, loss of pace from damage, potentially loss of track position in the incident. PD logic: let's penalise them for wall riding, because that's clearly the intention when you smack a wall at nearly 90 degrees...

As a software developer myself, this is the most infuriating part of GT7 to me, that PD didn't bother implementing anything to check if you've spun or decelerated abruptly after hitting the wall.

 

[MidnightRun85]

As a software developer myself, this is the most infuriating part of GT7 to me, that PD didn't bother implementing anything to check if you've spun or decelerated abruptly after hitting the wall.

Sounds like its just lazy work, adding a blanket penalty regardless of the context. Ie. I got a penalty last night (plus the associated damage) when an AI clipped my rear corner and tapped me into the barrier. 5s penalty, plus obviously slowed me down and had to recover, plus all the time loss from the damage... I mean... C'mon.

 

[mynameis66]

I spun out on the final corner (after the haipin) on Lap 12 when I was on my fastest ever race time.... Hit the wall, killed every part of the car and the engine, oh and after turning the car around and hitting the other wall + 15 seconds of penalty

Was this before todays update?The reason i ask,i did 2 runs on Tokyo this afternoon,i got pinballed because i tried a tune with RH,but anyway,front of the car goes red as normal but no 5 sec penalty.Ok,3 times i deliberately punted the barrier with no penaltys.
Next race,normal race no drama except i outbraked myself twice on the first turn at the end of the straight,red damge on the car and wonky steering but no 5 sec penalty.Go figure,anybody else had this?

 

[BWX]

Shelby Cobra 427 '66 - last Tokyo race in GT7 1.24
Not an easy car, I need to work on the diff and suspension but was able to win with normal ai and it was a fun race, at least with a wheel. Stole away FL on last lap 😎. Made a mostly cockpit view vid. Shows wheel and car setup at the end.

 

[BWM]

Saw there are some adjustments to the tire wear, curious about how much it changed and took my golf 1 for a ride.(it got about 3pp higher after patch)

Firstly car felt less like a lorry now which is good. But for the main part about tire wear it got worse.(Don't know it's in general or just my setup?)

Here are the pre patch I post before
Dry line run

Driving on more puddles than usual

After patch and...
Dry run

Puddles run(Mainly on the left side)

Seems little more wear and puddles are less effective for tire saving.


Some gameplay runs
Stock 250 GTO with RH (pre patch run)

The initial turn in yank by the open diff+racing tire is addictive

K20 Beat

Don't get too serious to the setup i just testing random stuff
This short wheelbase mid engine beast is quite dangerous especially when rear wear below 30% (Too much ture wear I can't do a non stop run)
Maybe some ballast in the front end would help.

 

[Habla2k]

But for the main part about tire wear it got worse.

Do you use brake control +5? Because that might save some front tires.

impressive you guys have all those engines for swapping aleady.

 

[SPL170db]

Welp.....it looks like the Alpine glitch definitely got nerfed. Tried to jump in and it was sitting way over 600PP now

Guess it's back to the R8 for grinding.