The WTC 600 in Tokyo done without exploits is genuinely one of the hardest races in single player in gt7 - share your setups, tips, and cars

  • Thread starter The_It_Jojo
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The results of the online TTs @half_sourly keeps would disagree to some extent.

Only assist, I call them "Nannies", I ever run with is ABS weak. If you run without ABS you're much braver than I. I tried ABS off back in GT6 days and didn't get along with that at all, even fiddling with BB.

So far, in the races I've won, I've pulled into 11th by the first turn, if arty idiots fall out in my favor, I'll gain 2 or more positions on the back side of the track on the first lap. Usually in 6th or 5th by end of L2 and catching up to top 3, mostly on the back side of the track. Gallo in the NSX usually pits on L4 or L5 and I'll pick up 3rd and sometimes 2nd. Kokubun and Suswillo will pit at the end of L6, although I've seen both run to L7 which is when I pit for fuel. If I follow them in I'll jump them just getting fuel and Gallo will pass me coming out. I could decide to just follow Gallo until he pits again for the easy win but I don't usually. Sometimes it take me 2 laps to get past him or wait for him to pit, either way, if Kokubun is near by then he'll burn up his SS tires catching you and pit on L11 giving you the win. Roll that throttle on everywhere. Only time I stomp it to the mat is if I'm on dry pavement and she's running on the straight and narrow, 3rd and 4th gear are all that's needed for all but that double right hairpin. Been exiting that in 1st at about half - two thirds throttle snap shift to 2nd before the left kink and mat the pedal after and throw it in 3rd for the drag race.

Ya'll want a replay? Think I have one saved I can throw up on YT.
The TT community leaderboard here is most certainly not a place to judge your speed in this game... 😂😂😂

That's a loaded field...
 
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Sound is nice, driving is okay, but the straight feels eternal.
At first glance I thought this was the car with the least power I landed a P1 with, but then just the day before the GT2000 is actually a little bit weaker yet leagues faster.
Since you seem good and tuning older, lighter, underpowered cars for this track, any chance you can get an AE86 into 1st? Shigeno version, swap, or stock engine, your choice.

I've tried a few tunes for 600p, but they're all race tyre grip based, and seem very difficult to control with SH tires.
 
Since you seem good and tuning older, lighter, underpowered cars for this track, any chance you can get an AE86 into 1st? Shigeno version, swap, or stock engine, your choice.

I've tried a few tunes for 600p, but they're all race tyre grip based, and seem very difficult to control with SH tires.
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(when YT finishes)


Needs Widebody mod, otherwise you are going to pit to change tyres (for some reason widebody on many cars reduces tyrewear significantly). Then wide tyres and tims, biggest size.

Installed everything, so you just need to look at the values:
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(when YT finishes)


Needs Widebody mod, otherwise you are going to pit to change tyres (for some reason widebody on many cars reduces tyrewear significantly). Then wide tyres and tims, biggest size.

Installed everything, so you just need to look at the values:
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Thanks @Meythia! Did you go with the engine swap on this? Mid or High turbo?

Can't wait to try it out. Curious though, what's your rationale for no LSD? Instant loss of traction seems to be my biggest issue on this car, so not sure how the LSD tuning can help/hurt.
 
Needs Widebody mod, otherwise you are going to pit to change tyres (for some reason widebody on many cars reduces tyrewear significantly).
You can fit even wider tires in the wide body cars increasing overall tire contact patch and thus reducing overall tire wear. The game really emphasizes the tire wear savings with the wide body option. I don’t think it would be as significant in real life, though.
 
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Did you go with the engine swap on this? Mid or High turbo?
Its default engine, high RPM turbo.

As I used the gear ratio to control wheel spin as well as conserving fuel, I didnt see any purpose in trying to find LSD settings to match the car.

Shigeno version, swap, or stock engine, your choice.
By the way, I didnt misread this as "please Shigeno, no matter how?"
I used "the normal" AE86 (obviously).
I think I did it with the Shigeni back when it was added, but from memory it is not as good as this one.
I guess I need to try again.

You can fit even wider tires in the wide body cars
The option of wide tyres was given even without wide body modification, yet the difference was between pitting in the mid of the race or fearing total traction loss (without wide body) vs absolutely no problem (with wide body)
 
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The option of wide tyres was given even without wide body modification, yet the difference was between pitting in the mid of the race or fearing total traction loss (without wide body) vs absolutely no problem (with wide body)
Yes, but the wide wheels/tires you can install on a wide body are even wider than the wide wheels/tires you can install on a regular body. Thats why you get better braking, accelerating and cornering performance along with longer tire life.

In all honesty, I try to adjust my tire life more with camber settings. I rarely go above 1.8-2.0 on any of my cars. Any higher and the tires tend to burn out much faster. I also notice decreased braking performance with higher camber numbers.
 
I rarely go above 1.8-2.0 on any of my cars.
Thats the same idea I follow on.
Sometimes trying to add ballast front or back to even it out in case of extrem onesided tyrewear can actually help, but most generally I simply go "as light as possible, and low camber and toe values".
Everything else sits in the gear ratios (this is where I think I gain most with my setups) and on the driving inputs.
 
Oh, so I ran this race last night in the engine swapped Evo III. Good car with stupid amounts of grip. Anyway, I was on lap 2 and was passing Hizal on the inside after the chicane. I shift a bit left to set up for the fast right hander and Hizal rear ends me. I figure my CRB is gone at this point so I just start taking bigger risks when passing Suswillo and Gallo. I lightly tap Suswillo on lap 3 in the hair pin and full on rear end Gallo on Lap 4 exiting the fast left hander leading up to the hill. Anyway, I finish the race over a minute ahead of everyone and somehow, some way got the CRB. Very strange.

Anyone else had that happen? Just wondering if PD made some adjustments to the CRB for this race or if this was just a fluke.
 
Its default engine, high RPM turbo.

As I used the gear ratio to control wheel spin as well as conserving fuel, I didnt see any purpose in trying to find LSD settings to match the car.

By the way, I didnt misread this as "please Shigeno, no matter how?"
I used "the normal" AE86 (obviously).
I think I did it with the Shigeni back when it was added, but from memory it is not as good as this one.
I guess I need to try again.
Ah gotcha. I used this tune on a swapped Levin max tuned, and was able to make it work (although open diff inside wheel spin up to 3rd was hilarious). Actually my new favorite suspension settings for the 86.

Tried this setup on a Shigeno version, with default LSD (not open) and it was smooth as butter.

Won with both cars, so mission accomplished! Thank you!
 
Okay, I just ran the race again in an engine swapped ‘70 Dodge Challenger. A bit of a sketchy car due to its not so great rear down force and its tendency to have the rear end try to come around on you through the fast bends.

Anyway, lap 1 I get hit from behind on the brakes in to the hairpin. I figure the CRB is gone. A few laps later I tap Suswillo going through the hairpin. A lap after that I brush the back side of Gallo in the same spot I did with the Evo, going up the hill. I know my CRB is gone.

Finish the race in first with a 27:06 race time and I still got the CRB. What???? Is it the fact that I’m in an engine swapped car that makes the difference? Does the game think I’m in a race car and that “rubbin’ is racing”?

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Gave the Lamborghini Diablo a run tonight. Minimal tuning to hit 600pp. Mostly aero mods.

Race time: 26:43.016
Fastest lap: 2:08.939

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For being on the stock suspension, the car handled well. Tire wear was really good too. Probably could have done the whole race without changing them. And the fuel consumption was surprisingly good too. 7 laps on FM1 the whole time. I really didn’t expect that out of a V12. Its biggest flaw is that it tends to understeer. It’s not terrible, but it feels like it should go faster through the turns and likely drop your lap times by a couple seconds. Maybe a suspension instead of the fully controlled computer could help with this. At least the back end stays relatively tame coming out of the turns. I installed a manual racing transmission so I could adjust the gears to get out of the hairpin without the tires turning in to smoke. Hits over 200mph on the straight. Generally a good car for this race. If you have one, give it a try. You might like it.

Edit: Funny thing, Gallo rear ended me in this race. I didn’t get the CRB. Strange.
 
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Not sure. It would need more testing. I have lots of swaps I still want to try out. I just took a break last night because I saw this car in the UCD and it reminded me that I had not driven this car despite having owned it for the last… year???
 
Fnish the race in first with a 27:06 race time and I still got the CRB. What???? ”?
I have had two similar experiences. Possibly due to one or both of following...

1. If you hit a wall shortly before making contact with an opponent car = no loss of CRB. (one time I absolutely rammed a backmarker after hitting the wall while trying to get around him, and still maintained the CRB)

2. If the opponent hits you. Possibly it considers that you are not at fault = no loss of CRB. (like you, I got rammed from behind and still maintained CRB)

Both need further testing to confirm.
 
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Lancer Evo III with the engine swap is quickly passing the S1 Pikes Peak as my favorite fast 4WD car for Tokyo. This tune has basically no edginess at all. Turn in with trail braking and at apex, hit the gas. No drama. Hits 200mph on the straight. Does not need pitting, the tires are completely fine for a 2:05 even on lap 12. The only thing it's missing is stopping power, which I just haven't been able to get included in the 600pp budget without overall time going way down. Just hit your braking markers and it's fine.

I'm attaching the GT Auto screens for reference, so wide body, engine swap, custom front, custom sides, diffusor and custom wing, 17in wheels with wide/wide.


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Took an engine swapped '90 Nissan Silvia "Quesadilla" out to Tokyo last night:

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It's an okay car. Not really a speed demon with the go fast pedal, but it corners very quickly, so you can achieve lap times in the high 2:08's/Low 2:09's. You are basically in the race with the other cars until the end of lap 7. After that the AI pits and you can keep going for another lap or two before needing fuel. With some fuel management, short shifting and a bit lower camber numbers you could probably no-stop the race and that might save you 20 seconds or so. I just wanted to get out there and run the gears out and push the tires as hard as I could, so I pitted after lap 8 even though it had another lap and a half to go on FM1 the whole time. My race time was something like a 27:06 with a fastest lap in the low 2:09's.

I've done somewhere around 75 engine swaps in the game so far and other than a handful of cars, all of them tend to run a fastest lap of 2:08/2:09 on this track. Very strange.
 
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2:08/2:09 on this track. Very strange.
Actually, this is a somewhat good sign.
Considering the engine swaps are usually more into the direction of racing or high performance engine, it should be assumed the have a somewhat identical performance which then reflects in a 600pp almost identical lap time.

Im currently trying Chiron swapped cars, but they just cant be handled on comfort tyres 😅
 
Actually, this is a somewhat good sign.
Considering the engine swaps are usually more into the direction of racing or high performance engine, it should be assumed the have a somewhat identical performance which then reflects in a 600pp almost identical lap time.

Im currently trying Chiron swapped cars, but they just cant be handled on comfort tyres 😅
Oh, yeah, the Chiron swaps are crazy if you don't lower the power. The Viper and Corvette are totally stable on SH tires and way detuned engines. They actually get fairly good fuel economy as well, despite it being a massive quad-turbo W16 engine. But again, 2:08's.... I'm still looking for another magical Mazda MX-5 swap.
 
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After some chatter in a different thread about Tokyo, revisited the event my my Toyotas. First was experimenting with the GT-One. Not trying to break records as it’ll still be faster than La Sarthe.
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I had five laps of fuel left and only pitted to put on fresh CMs.
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Took the engine swapped Ford Roadster out to Tokyo to see how it handled:

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It actually drives pretty well. Minimal mods: Wide 17" wheels, SM tires, engine swap, LSD, manual racing transmission (still only 4 gears), full computer down tuned to somewhere in the mid 400hp range (whatever got me closest to 600pp) and a touch of ballast to get me at 599.87pp.

Ran a 27:10 with a fastest lap in the mid 2:11's. CRB on the first try! One funny thing to note, and I seem to be coming across this more and more lately, when you start to get low on fuel (maybe 1/4 tank left) the car starts to get a bit squirrely in the back end. I guess the game is taking in to account the fuel weight of the car and adjusting the handling characteristics accordingly. I never seem to remember this happening with cars about 6 months ago. Maybe this is one of the tiny adjustments they make but never really state in their update notes. I don't know.

Oh, and the AI did run in to the back of me on lap 1 in to the hair pin. Didn't effect my CRB.
 
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I never seem to remember this happening with cars about 6 months ago. Maybe this is one of the tiny adjustments they make but never really state in their update notes. I don't know.
As far as I recall, this has always been the case.
It also changes how tyrewear factors in on full vs empty front to back.
 
As far as I recall, this has always been the case.
It also changes how tyrewear factors in on full vs empty front to back.
Hmm, maybe it’s all the engine swap cars that I have been running that makes this more noticable.

Anyway, I tried a fully tuned Volvo 240 last night. That one is a challenge. I can run a 2:14-2:15 lap in it and with some fuel saving should be able to make this a no stop race, but the AI always passes me on the straight and I have to constantly fight with them through the corners, which is the only place where this car excels. Only got through 4 laps before the Lambo pushed me off line and spun me out on turn 1. I’ll try it again and see if this can be won in my hands.
 
The option of wide tyres was given even without wide body modification, yet the difference was between pitting in the mid of the race or fearing total traction loss (without wide body) vs absolutely no problem (with wide body)
Yes, but the wide wheels/tires you can install on a wide body are even wider than the wide wheels/tires you can install on a regular body. Thats why you get better braking, accelerating and cornering performance along with longer tire life.

In all honesty, I try to adjust my tire life more with camber settings. I rarely go above 1.8-2.0 on any of my cars. Any higher and the tires tend to burn out much faster. I also notice decreased braking performance with higher camber numbers.
I’m fairly certain that without adding a wide body the tires do not change in width.

One setting changes wheel offset, and the other only changes wheel width, not tire width. The only way I’ve ever seen tire width change visually is through adding a wide body.
 
I’ll try it again and see if this can be won in my hands.
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CRB? Sure.
No walls? Of course.
No stop? Yes.
Fun? Lots of, until lap 10 it was business as usual, but from that point on I had to used block the straight so the RX couldnt pass. Not fair at all, so actually not a winner.

On tracks that are much less reliant on topspeed the car would actually be very interesting.
 
Seems AI go faster everytime the game get a physics change?
Before patch it would be saved around 27:30 but just got a test run for tire wear and the RX7 got a 27:13 and the 2nd place NSX only 2 seconds behind (didn't pay too much attention on it but it seems only pitting once only no 2nd pit on lap9)

Worn tires perform much worse now so racing hard non stop run is much difficult :crazy: (maybe some lightweight cars could survive)
 
BWM
Seems AI go faster everytime the game get a physics change?
Before patch it would be saved around 27:30 but just got a test run for tire wear and the RX7 got a 27:13 and the 2nd place NSX only 2 seconds behind (didn't pay too much attention on it but it seems only pitting once only no 2nd pit on lap9)

Worn tires perform much worse now so racing hard non stop run is much difficult :crazy: (maybe some lightweight cars could survive)
AI times by screenshots within this thread since februrary 23 (difficulty setting undefined) until Jan 17, 2024
27m + xs
05 - 1
10 - 2
12 - 2
15 - 2
16 - 1
17 - 1
18 - 2
19 - 2
20 - 4
21 - 4
22 - 1
23 - 2
24 - 2
25 - 7
26 - 4
27 - 9
28 - 8
29 - 5
30 - 4
31 - 9
32 - 6
33 - 12
34 - 5
35 - 8
36 - 8
37 - 5
38 - 6
39 - 7
40 - 4
41 - 3
42 - 2
43 - 3
46 - 2
48 - 1
49 - 1
53 - 1
A few tries dont really weigh into the list to say "they are definitly faster".
 
BWM
Seems AI go faster everytime the game get a physics change?
Before patch it would be saved around 27:30 but just got a test run for tire wear and the RX7 got a 27:13 and the 2nd place NSX only 2 seconds behind (didn't pay too much attention on it but it seems only pitting once only no 2nd pit on lap9)

Worn tires perform much worse now so racing hard non stop run is much difficult :crazy: (maybe some lightweight cars could survive)
Both driver and AI opponents are about 4s/5s faster now, with the new physics update. But the overall dificulty is about the same.
 
Both driver and AI opponents are about 4s/5s faster now, with the new physics update. But the overall dificulty is about the same.
After selecting my Stratos:
yes, the AI is faster, I can see that already in lap 1.
Also: my Stratos has been severly nerfed and is slower by about 10 to 15 seconds in total for its increase in PP on my setup.
Also: I now have to have a careful last lap as tyrewear exists.
 
After selecting my Stratos:
yes, the AI is faster, I can see that already in lap 1.
Also: my Stratos has been severly nerfed and is slower by about 10 to 15 seconds in total for its increase in PP on my setup.
Also: I now have to have a careful last lap as tyrewear exists.
Dont know the stratos situation as I rarely use it, but yes. Some cars have been nerfed, but some also got buffed.
I ran the audi tts '09 today and now it feels more unstable in braking.
I also ran the audi r8 '16 and it got a slight buff in speed.
I will try more cars in the next days.
But one thing I noticed in the most of the cars I used: dropping racing suspension, racing brakes for their normal parts will drop the PP more now, than before the the update.
As for the new cars, tried all except for genesis vgt for obvious reasons:
Gallardo>=Impreza>M3>F430>RGT
 
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