The WTC 600 in Tokyo done without exploits is genuinely one of the hardest races in single player in gt7 - share your setups, tips, and cars

  • Thread starter The_It_Jojo
  • 2,574 comments
  • 380,621 views
As a VR player, I feel like this update has really improved the feel of the game... Instead of just feeling over/understeer, I can feel which wheel is losing traction, and the weight shifting is much more intuitive.

This race has now become challenging again. Took the new Ferrari 430 Scudi out stock with just a detune to 600 and came in 3rd. I don't think I've lost this with any of the Ferrari's @ 600pp, even the classics. I'd probably have to tune this for sport medium tires in order to win easier, because you need to pit once so the hards are not ideal.

Diablo is my benchmark, and was able to win, but it was closer than usual, better and cleaner racing, and a much more enjoyable challenge.

Bravo Polyphony! I am sure some players hate the update, and I know there are some bugs, but this feels like a huge leap forward for realistic driving physics and immersion in this game.
 
So I came back to this track to see if a lot of my 600pp builds still worked and…. most of them still do. Some need little tweaks to get the pp levels back in line. The suspensions may need a bit of adjustments/tweaks to help get some of the little wiggles and wobbles out of them with the new physics, but I can say that the cars are even faster with this new update.

For example, the engine swapped Mazda Miata is still a beast at this track with no tweaks. It does need a bit of suspension tuning as it likes to buck around a bit. Even with those issues, I still put up a faster test time than my previous tests prior to the update. I think with a tweaked suspension another second or more could be found.

The Boss 429, unfortunately, increased by 3.5pp and no adjustments to power or aero would make it budge. I thought the car was toast for this race, but I removed the racing brakes and pads and swapped on the sport rotors and pads. That dropped it below 600pp. Took it out for a spin and on my second lap of testing I ran 3/10’s of a second faster than any of my other testing with this car. With worse brakes the car still went faster. New fastest lap with this car is 2:00.666. And the suspension still needs to get adjusted to clean up the little wiggles and wobbles. A sub 2 minute lap is in this car, I know it.

So the future is still bright for this race.

Edit: I decided to give the Boss 429 a shakedown on this race with the slightly adjusted setup. Ran a 25:30.026 with a fastest lap of 2:01.614. Based on my other posted run of the car here:


That’s essentially the exact same race time and fastest lap. That’s with worse brakes than the previous version. Oh but it gets better…. I pitted after lap 7 and had a brain fart when replacing my tires. Instead of putting on SS tires for the last 5 laps, I put in SM tires. I was easily 3-4 seconds/ lap slower with the SM tires. This could have been a 25:15 race or possibly faster.
 
Last edited:
I have taken a look at a few only:
Stratos + 20PP
Jaguar E-Type +40PP
Alfa 4C +8PP
Focus RS +15PP

It really depends on how you did your setup, mine have seen a significant hit.
Have you made any adjustments to them to get them back in line? If so, what did you need to remove? I was really surprised how the Mustang could still brake really well despite removing the racing brakes and pads. It seemed as though it was unaffected by the change.

I'll have to take a look at my Stratos since it is based off your original tune. I wonder if it is +20pp like yours or if any of the little tweaks and adjustments you have made over the past several months glitched the pp levels a bit.
 
Last edited:
Have you made any adjustments to them to get them back in line?
Didnt yet take any much effort to trying that, not so much of a regular player anymore that I really would care enough.
Though I definitly applied changes to the Stratos in the mean time, it isnt all the same from way back when I first posted it, for example did I use SH/SS mixed tyred, and this pretty much is a guaranteed way of ****ing up PP calculations, but my main reason was to make room for all power parts that have been enabled with the ticket/expert part shop opening during one of the patches.
 
Okay, interesting, when I look at my list of cars in my garage they display the PP of what they were under the last version. As soon as you click on them, the PP gets recalculated for the new physics. My Stratos went up by 24pp. I switched to SM tires, normal clutch and went to sport rotors which dropped the pp below 600. Add in a touch of front downforce and remove a touch of ballast and it’s back to 599.95pp.

Edit: Ran the newly tuned Stratos. Ran a 26:45.706 with a fastest lap of 2:11.8. My previous time on the old physics was a 26:38 with a fastest lap of 2:10.


So it’s just a touch slower with the different tires and brakes. I will say, the car isn’t “magical” any more. Using the same suspension tune it understeers and really can’t hold its line as well as it once did through the fast bends. Maybe there are adjustments that can be made to the suspension to help it have a bit better turn in response. The tires seem to last a bit longer, so maybe some added camber will help it hold a line better through the fast bends? Maybe.

Kokubun ran a 27:03 race. That’s the fastest I’ve ever seen the AI run, so they are benefiting from the changed physics.
 
Last edited:
Ran a 26:45.706
My old best was 25:55.***, new PP tunings 3rd attempt is quite okay, but still miles off of the old pace:
1722500886708.png

Optimal time was a low 2:08.2** but I couldnt yet master consistent lap times with the new handling.


Having had a look at a few other cars:
my 600pp tunes have seen pp gains
my 700pp tunes are a mixed bag, even with some losses
I guess this really is a thing connected to the choice of tyres more so than anything else.

Though at least some cars now have better response without using racing suspension (in my opinion).
 
Last edited:
I Did the race with a engine swapped M3 '07. My Tokyo skills is a little bit rusty because I haven't done this race in a while. I Didn't spend too much time on the tuning so I'm sure it can be improved. The Z4 race V8 give's good fuel consumption. I Got 9 laps on the first stint. Pitted for a little fuel only. a Set of SH tires easily finish the race so no need for changing. The AI definitely got faster after the last update. I have never seen a 2:07 lap by one of the quicker AI's.
 

Attachments

  • M3 1.jpg
    M3 1.jpg
    52.9 KB · Views: 7
  • M3 2.jpeg
    M3 2.jpeg
    93.3 KB · Views: 7
  • M3 3.jpg
    M3 3.jpg
    81.5 KB · Views: 12
  • M3 4.jpg
    M3 4.jpg
    84.2 KB · Views: 10
  • M3 5.jpg
    M3 5.jpg
    102.3 KB · Views: 9
  • M3 6.jpg
    M3 6.jpg
    91.5 KB · Views: 6
  • M3 7.jpg
    M3 7.jpg
    87.9 KB · Views: 6
Looks like the Impreza Rally Car '98 is my newest WTC 600 Tokyo toy.

Gran Turismo® 7_20240730170916.png


The fuel consumption on this can get you up to the end of lap 8 where you'll have to box for a refuel. Only downside is that I can only use Sports Hards but its still viable.

Gran Turismo® 7_20240730175732.png


It led to a good race with the Suswillo and Kokubun AIs.



Here's another run I did just to confirm myself that this Impreza is viable.

 
@Stephan Just a couple of tips for you, I put ballast upto 70 and position 50, this let me run max 627hp.I used manual transmission to drop some PP and set my transmission to 360,aero at 100 / 170, this gives me just shy of 200mph. Makes life a little easier on Tokyo. 👍

Just to also add, the engine makes its max power at just over 5000rpm, shifting at around 5500rpm will get you the most from it.It feels quite lazy to shift at these revs but theres no need to redline it even if it is fun to. :lol: The Aston Martin vgt is another good choice that benefits from early shifting.
 
Last edited:
It has no handling to speak positive about.
It has not the highest top speed among this pp range.
It has not the best fuel economy.
How is this car so fast?
1722544726801.png


There is still time to gain, this was just my first run with an estimate of how I want to tune it + I seriously misjudged the fuel consumption and needed to run 3 laps on FM3 for a no pit run.
 
Audi Pikes Peak

a lower in power on the latest update but may be the less tire wear make it over all faster race time by 5sec, same fastest lapz

IMG_0668.jpeg
IMG_0669.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0669.jpeg
    IMG_0669.jpeg
    85.1 KB · Views: 5
Are any of the Civics viable cars for this race or maybe an engine swapped Garage RCR Civic? I really want to try this in a Kanjo style Civic but want to know if it's possible before I start ploughing money in to it.
 
Are any of the Civics viable cars for this race or maybe an engine swapped Garage RCR Civic? I really want to try this in a Kanjo style Civic but want to know if it's possible before I start ploughing money in to it.
I ran it in an engine swapped Civic:
 
I ran the engine swapped Civic Touring car, started on IM for 2 laps then went onto RH,but it wasnt any quicker than starting on RH,just safer on the wet track. Car is a belter on a drying track, I only did one stop for tyres and a splash of fuel.You could probably do it on a non-stopper with a bit of fuel management, but I dont chase fastest laps so would suit me. 👍
 
I ran the engine swapped Civic Touring car, started on IM for 2 laps then went onto RH,but it wasnt any quicker than starting on RH,just safer on the wet track. Car is a belter on a drying track, I only did one stop for tyres and a splash of fuel.You could probably do it on a non-stopper with a bit of fuel management, but I dont chase fastest laps so would suit me. 👍
Thanks for that. It's basically a cheat code. Once you do the engine swap the PP is still well under 600, then you can add a High RPM turbo which gives you an additional 191hp and only increases the PP by .73!!!! You're then still able to max out the car, even running carbon brakes and the medium tyre, which will easily let you do a one stop race. It was topping out on the straight at around 310kmh (it would go faster I think if I tweaked the ratio) and you can do 2.08 laps without thinking about it. I think my fastest was a low 2.07.
 
wall riding?
I never tried the Ford GT '06 because I didn't think it could beat and outsmart the AI. I guess I'll have to use expert tuning in order to win this over and over. The wall riding doesn't work for me because I don't get the clean race bonus after the race.
 
Last edited:
I never tried the Ford GT '06 because I didn't think it could beat and outsmart the AI. I guess I'll have to use expert tuning in order to win this over and over. The wall riding doesn't work for me because I don't get the clean race bonus after the race.
The GT40`06 is a win for me,as is the older`66 version,though I havent used the older one for a few months.Both are winners without wall riding,which,in my opinion, is a pants way to run a race.If it works for some and people want to do thats fine just not for me.
 
The GT40`06 is a win for me,as is the older`66 version,though I havent used the older one for a few months.Both are winners without wall riding,which,in my opinion, is a pants way to run a race.If it works for some and people want to do thats fine just not for me.
Agree. Although I'm not adverse to creaming races (say hello Sardegna and higher than gt3 class cars...), wall riding is a step too far for me.

As say, each to their own I guess.

How much time does it shave off by wall riding? If not overly significant, seems a little pointless and may as well race properly or do another high paying race. Where can yiu wall ride (I'll youtube it I guess).

I like sardegna as find it therapeutic, with cars used and guarantees the payout. Seems like splitting hairs when people talk about Tokyo paying a few k more an hour. Particularly as higher risk of losing crb. Altgough I guess through experience you learn how to be consistent and risk of screwing it up on Tokyo diminishes.

I'm going to try Tokyo le sarthe shortly. But in the past tend to find them boring, not as engaging as sardegna. Plus I don't like racing in the rain/wet tracks. Prefer to be flat out, on the limit and not having to worry about timing of pit stop to change into intermediates.
 
Last edited:
B80
How much time does it shave off by wall riding? If not overly significant, seems a little pointless and may as well race properly or do another high paying race. Where can yiu wall ride (I'll youtube it I guess).

I like sardegna as find it therapeutic, with cars used and guarantees the payout. Seems like splitting hairs when people talk about Tokyo paying a few k more an hour. Particularly as higher risk of losing crb. Altgough I guess through experience you learn how to be consistent and risk of screwing it up on Tokyo diminishes.
Wall riding can make a huge difference on Tokyo.
If your sole purpose is making credits fast, it really makes a difference, and some players may dislike the idea of spending time to earn money to then do something different with it which is why they discuss this option.

If going for a clear run, then it doesnt really get any much more difficult (as soon as you again just found a car that outperforms the AI), and under certian circumstances you have no reason to even lose the CRB at all with a bit of timing the overtakes/lap times to be at the right spots.
To me "the old" Sardegna was much more stressful, but since 1.49 I havent done anything at all anymore, so my advice is a bit outdated - I just dont like retuning my cars a 2nd time AGAIN and AGAIN make them slower, it is just not my game anymore.
 
B80
Agree. Although I'm not adverse to creaming races (say hello Sardegna and higher than gt3 class cars...), wall riding is a step too far for me.

As say, each to their own I guess.

How much time does it shave off by wall riding? If not overly significant, seems a little pointless and may as well race properly or do another high paying race. Where can yiu wall ride (I'll youtube it I guess).

I like sardegna as find it therapeutic, with cars used and guarantees the payout. Seems like splitting hairs when people talk about Tokyo paying a few k more an hour. Particularly as higher risk of losing crb. Altgough I guess through experience you learn how to be consistent and risk of screwing it up on Tokyo diminishes.

I'm going to try Tokyo le sarthe shortly. But in the past tend to find them boring, not as engaging as sardegna. Plus I don't like racing in the rain/wet tracks. Prefer to be flat out, on the limit and not having to worry about timing of pit stop to change into intermediates.
I agree,Sardegna and Le Sarthe are more forgiving when it comes to crb.For me theres just the draw for beating the ai at Tokyo.lol Im no fast lap setter at all,just race at my own pace and enjoy,or not sometimes.
I normally make up spaces in the start then try to pick them off before Gallo pits,doesnt always work but still fun. 🫱
 
Last edited:
Wall riding can make a huge difference on Tokyo.
If your sole purpose is making credits fast, it really makes a difference, and some players may dislike the idea of spending time to earn money to then do something different with it which is why they discuss this option.

If going for a clear run, then it doesnt really get any much more difficult (as soon as you again just found a car that outperforms the AI), and under certian circumstances you have no reason to even lose the CRB at all with a bit of timing the overtakes/lap times to be at the right spots.
To me "the old" Sardegna was much more stressful, but since 1.49 I havent done anything at all anymore, so my advice is a bit outdated - I just dont like retuning my cars a 2nd time AGAIN and AGAIN make them slower, it is just not my game anymore.
Cheers mate.

Just watched a video on wallriding. May try it or at least good to know In case not winning as race closes in. Insurance policy, so to speak.

Assume losing crb is based on smashing into other cars or crossing lines/cones on the final hairpin? Anything else to be aware of?
 

Latest Posts

Back