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You can change the dor by pressing the mode button and left Or right on the dpad simultaniously.
Thrustmaster T-GT Wheel Thread
- Thread starter Soulfresh_ACV
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LeGeNd-1
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The quick release system is an epic fail on this wheel. Dunno about other TM products, but when I pay $1000, I expect more than a non-locking tightening mechanism and a flimsy non-threaded screw holding my wheel together. You know, the part that gets twisted, abused and subject to the strongest rotational forces? Absolutely pathetic. I can't go 3-4 races without the wheel rim getting loose from the base. And before you ask, I have tightened the locking mechanism and the screw as tight as possible (any further and it will damage the equally flimsy plastic).
If anyone have a permanent solution to this it will be greatly appreciated 👍
If anyone have a permanent solution to this it will be greatly appreciated 👍
- 5,051
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FPV MIC
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On both of my TM wheels I had to be very aggresive with my tightening of the screw, even tested it without the wheel on to make sure the screw was actually getting in far enough. It took me several tries before I managed to stop both of them from coming loose, but once it was properly tight, it stayed tight.
- 42
- Montreal
Like a real car you mean? Of course if you take a 180 corner at low speed, you have to cross your arms, like a real race car!
I have the T-GT since a while and I never had to loose the grip on the steering to turn but yes, sometimes you have to cross your arms (180 degress) to take the corner correctly.
For those who dont love this wheel, i will never understand you.
I have a rig (Playseat Challenge) and with it, you can feel the vibration of the road IN YOUR ASS when using the D-TFB feature. It is awesome.
Anyone came to my house to play with it enjoyed it.
My father has the Logitech g29 and THERE IS NO COMPARISON.
LeGeNd-1
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I tried tightening it again, both the hub and the screw. This time the screw moved in a few more mm (had to press DOWN really hard with a screwdriver to keep it going). Have been using the wheel for a few days now without it coming loose. Maybe I've finally tightened it properly but man, I still expect a better, more consistent and easier system than this on a premium product.
Also despite people saying old gear driven wheels are "notchy" (which I never felt), the T-GT in fact feels like it has 2 notches just off to either side of dead centre. Not a problem when turning in normal corners, but when racing ovals for example where you make very fine adjustments near centre you can really feel it and it's even worse feeling than my G25's worn out center deadzone!
Another issue I have is with countersteering when drifting. The FFB even when turned down is still too damn strong to make quick see saw movements. If I turn it down too low where I'm able to move it quickly enough, then I can't feel any useful FFB. In normal racing countersteering is ok, but my drifting skills have gone downhill since switching to this.
The T-DFB effect is cool, but you realise it's only usable in one game and it's kinda pointless. Also, the reason why GT needs it is because their track surfaces are always as smooth as glass. In Assetto Corsa with laser scanned tracks you don't even need T-DFB because the in-game physics produces excellent road feel naturally. I accidentally forgot to set the switch to "GT" position while playing GTS one day, and the FFB just felt so numb.
Honestly, if this wheel breaks I'm just gonna sell it as is. You can laugh at my old G25, but it's built like a tank and it still provides all the FFB info I need to drive fast. Now that I know what belt driven wheels are like, I'm even less interested in direct drive wheels that are supposedly even stronger. If I want to build arm muscles I'll go to the gym. I want my steering wheel to be communicative and easy to manipulate.
- 5,051
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The logitech have a far larger deadzone in the centre. Try going back to a G25 and you'll notice it even more then before... Especially the friction/dampening.
DD wheels are not about power or torque by the way. They are ultra smooth with no friction or dampening, almost no latency and all about fidelity. You will get the most detail and true to life FFB available.
Coming from DFGT and the G29 I hope Logitech will make another wheel someday. With only Thrustmaster and Fanatec the options are way too limited in the consumer or low/mid end enthousiast market. Personally i really like the force feedback the T-GT is giving me. The Ecosystem Thrustmaster is presenting is really promising and focusing on reliability and competitive simracing. But if not for my bad experience with Fanatec I sadly can not get a similair or better wheel for my own setup with a console.
Your bad experience being?
- 5,051
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Nog going to go in detail too much. But I was critical for the lack of support of fanatec CSL elite for GT Sport When I was in the market for an upgrade from G29. At the time promises were made...that have since been deleted.
Then the fanatec ceo singled me out and accused me of having a relation with Thrustmaster, having questionable ethics, bashing Fanatec and trying to “fool” the GT community etc. (which wasn’t my intention at all) Since then I lost interest in buying into Fanatec. Don’t get me wrong their gear is fantastic, but I personally don’t want to give money to such a paranoid, mean spirited person.
user3392345
(Banned)
- 702
- Antarctica
Had a lot of wheels in the last 15 years, the 2 fanatecs was short time of fun(porsche wheel & csl elite). They always feeled syntetic, dont know how to discribe that force feedback feeling. Its nice to setup all values otf at wheel but the result was never satisfiing. Very best expirience was the t500, so i stayed at thrustmaster, only logic next step was a dd wheel or the t-gt.... and the tg-t is awesome. Waiting now for fanatecs dd wheel, if its good and not over 800€, i will try it.
LeGeNd-1
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I actually did an experiment where I used G25 for a month, switched to T-GT for a month, and went back to G25 again. The deadzone is there but after a few hours of play it's really not noticeable anymore. Maybe it's because I've used G25 since 10 years ago and only recently used another wheel, but it never really bothered me. Odd as well that you mention friction/dampening, because intrinsically the G25's internals probably have the lowest friction/resistance out of any wheel (save maybe those crappy MadCatz wheels). If you unplug the wheel the T-GT still takes more effort to spin than the G25.
I know DD wheels are about more fidelity, but personally the extra feel of understeer/oversteer doesn't really tell me any new things about the car behaviour that I don't already anticipate. What it does is just an extra layer of force that I have to overcome when correcting said understeer/oversteer. More realistic maybe, but definitely doesn't make me any faster.
If Fanatec ever get their DD wheel licensed officially for consoles I might give it a go next generation, but otherwise I think I'm pretty happy to say that a cheap old gear driven wheel is as competitive as any top of the line belt/DD wheel.
Ok just checking it’s what I thought it was but not sure I’d word it as a bad experience with Fanatec as it made it sound like you had owned one of their products and had an issue.
Also don’t think I’m defending them because I actually have had bad experiences with them and sold off both my V2 wheel and V3 pedals, these mass market products are too fallible (in really stupid areas to cut costs) for me.
An extra layer of force?
I’m guessing you’ve never used a DD wheel or played with the settings of one because you can make it as light or heavy as you want and completely change the feel to something you like.
It’s not just about fidelity either which is a good bit better, there’s also the speed at which the wheel reacts without delay. Prime example you used the word anticipate to describe your wheel, not something you have to do with a DD wheel you just drive on feel. Instead of losing traction and then wrestling with the wheel to try and save it you can actually just let the wheel do the hard work and catch it like in a real car.
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LeGeNd-1
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Well take my T-GT, when the car understeers, the wheel judders like crazy to tell me the wheels are slipping. As a result of the judder the steering also shakes and as a result I can't trace a smooth line. As a result I end up always driving just below the limit of traction to avoid that uncomfortable judder whereas with my G25 I can go right up to the limit of grip and still hold a smooth line.
Same with oversteer, because the wheel auto countersteers so quickly and violently I cannot control how much opposite lock I want to have exactly. Whereas with the G25 with its weaker motors and low internal resistance I can whip it about at the exact angle I want.
I know you can change the strength mate, even G25 can do that as well. I have it at 3/10 on GT Sport (as opposed to 4/10 for G25). On PC I run it 65% Gain (G25 always at 100%). Centering spring, dampers and other forces are always off. Problem with lowering the strength is you lose the useful feedback as well. You only end up with the internal resistance of the mechanism with no force assistance to counter it. Not a solution.
The anticipation part is more relating to how I perceive under/oversteer. If I go into a corner too fast, I can tell from visuals, tyre noise, my speed dropping that I understeer. So the wheel juddering isn't telling me anything that I don't already know at that point. The FFB just becomes an extra noise at that point.
Anyway, driving feel is a highly subjective thing. Objectively higher end wheels may be better, but to me personally, with the techniques and understanding I have cultivated with my G25 over 10 years I just feel more comfortable with it. Possibly I was expecting too much as well from the new wheel - creating an expectation in my head that no toy wheel could match (not even those insane Accuforce/Bodnar DD wheels). I still enjoy driving with the T-GT and its own unique sensations, but I realise that I do just fine with my good ol' trusty G25
Heck, I remember holl01 (GTP's resident alien) used to be unbeatable in GT4/5P with only a DFGT.Lowering the forces on those wheels reduces feedback yes but that’s because they have so much internal damping already of low end forces which is what people mean when they say fidelity.Well take my T-GT, when the car understeers, the wheel judders like crazy to tell me the wheels are slipping. As a result of the judder the steering also shakes and as a result I can't trace a smooth line. As a result I end up always driving just below the limit of traction to avoid that uncomfortable judder whereas with my G25 I can go right up to the limit of grip and still hold a smooth line.
Same with oversteer, because the wheel auto countersteers so quickly and violently I cannot control how much opposite lock I want to have exactly. Whereas with the G25 with its weaker motors and low internal resistance I can whip it about at the exact angle I want.
I know you can change the strength mate, even G25 can do that as well. I have it at 3/10 on GT Sport (as opposed to 4/10 for G25). On PC I run it 65% Gain (G25 always at 100%). Centering spring, dampers and other forces are always off. Problem with lowering the strength is you lose the useful feedback as well. You only end up with the internal resistance of the mechanism with no force assistance to counter it. Not a solution.
The anticipation part is more relating to how I perceive under/oversteer. If I go into a corner too fast, I can tell from visuals, tyre noise, my speed dropping that I understeer. So the wheel juddering isn't telling me anything that I don't already know at that point. The FFB just becomes an extra noise at that point.
Anyway, driving feel is a highly subjective thing. Objectively higher end wheels may be better, but to me personally, with the techniques and understanding I have cultivated with my G25 over 10 years I just feel more comfortable with it. Possibly I was expecting too much as well from the new wheel - creating an expectation in my head that no toy wheel could match (not even those insane Accuforce/Bodnar DD wheels). I still enjoy driving with the T-GT and its own unique sensations, but I realise that I do just fine with my good ol' trusty G25
The forces on a DD wheel are conveyed very differently than belt/gear much more crisp and subtle forces you’d never be able feel on gear/belt systems without boosting them where they are stronger than they should be. That’s why every game has a low force boost for regular wheels.
In terms of the juddering what do you mean? Juddering like ABS kicking in where it’s quick or like it switching between no grip and grip? The former isn’t something that should be happening but the latter is simply the delay in the wheel reacting and therefore a delay in you being able to react so by the time you’ve felt the feedback it’s akready too late to make an adjustment.
With oversteer as I say unlike non-DD wheels you aren’t fighting to wheel to put it where you want. All you really have to do is let go of the wheel and it corrects itself, all you have to do is catch it at the right point before it gets away from you, same as real life.
You can learn to be good with anything, I mean I more than held my own with just a 360 controller. However what a DD wheel brings IMO is the ability to just drive on feel and not have to memorise every awkward bump and just react as you go. I set mine up for higher forces for immersion but even if you have it low it’s still a good improvement.
It’s hard to really explain without trying it but honestly consumer wheels are certainly good enough for most and far better than what we had 10 years ago. DD wheels aren’t worlds beyond but for me I needed better build quality and higher forces which just aren’t available elsewhere.
Higher end load cell pedals with elastometers though are much much better and I’d certainly recommend those.
FPV MIC
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It's GT Sports interpretation of understeer which feels much how you describe (and I have felt) when ABS kicks in. It makes the wheel shudder on the edge of understeer and increases the more you push into understeer. It's probably a very good way of teaching the newer-to-racing crowd not to induce understeer but IMO it reacts in a way I have never felt in any other racing game, and I hope not to as it's a bit unnatural.
LeGeNd-1
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Glad someone understands what I'm talking about. This is especially bad on tracks like Alsace where there are long sweeping banked corners. The wheel literally is juddering all the way through the turns and it's a complete nuisance. Honestly, we need a third FFB slider in GTS to dial down the enhanced understeer effect (just like in AC). I found a workaround though: just use T-GT with the switch in "Other" position. It doesn't remove it completely, but it's not as intrusive.
user3392345
(Banned)
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Someone know what´s the update rate for the t-gt? 
edit: t500rs have 120hz right?
edit: t500rs have 120hz right?
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user3392345
(Banned)
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Nobody here very deep into stuff like this? 
found things by myself t500rs had 120hz before firmware v40, after update 500hz.
so maybe all tm wheels work on 500hz base now.
thx!!
found things by myself
t500rs had 120hz before firmware v40, after update 500hz. so maybe all tm wheels work on 500hz base now.
thx!!
- 5,051
- Netherlands
Nobody here very deep into stuff like this?
found things by myself
so maybe all tm wheels work on 500hz base now.
thx!!
You are correct.
t500 hz
http://www.kirikoo.net/images/7Fazer-20150209-013045.jpg
G27 500hz
TX/T300 500hz
http://img4.hostingpics.net/pics/603781rfrwtest.jpg
OSW 1000hz
The CSL Elite Ps4 and CSW v 2.5 are 1000Hz according to the Fanatec website.
I am not sure why you want these figures? In the end Latency in Ms is more important in real life then the refresh rate. I have read somewhere (dont know source) that the human brain can handle any latency/input lag very well. So the difference between 10ms and 2 ms should not have a an impact on performance/lap times with such small difference.
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user3392345
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- 702
- Antarctica
Hi, last saturday first time noticed some ff fading on the t-gt.
It was first day hot weather here, had arround 24°C in my fun-room.
Was driving assetto corsa, the ford1600(50% ff setting), it have a strong steering.
After 4 crazy drift laps on the ring i noticed weaker ff strenght then normal.
I touched the wheel and it was pretty hot!
Force Feedback strenghts fades if wheel get hot.
Looks like this new motor cooling system dosnt work if you go hardcore
Be warned for the hot summer, t-gt wheel also have that cooling problem what resulted in fading ff.
I will now remove all that plasic stuff and put on a big 12cm fan, hope that works.
It was first day hot weather here, had arround 24°C in my fun-room.
Was driving assetto corsa, the ford1600(50% ff setting), it have a strong steering.
After 4 crazy drift laps on the ring i noticed weaker ff strenght then normal.
I touched the wheel and it was pretty hot!
Force Feedback strenghts fades if wheel get hot.
Looks like this new motor cooling system dosnt work if you go hardcore
Be warned for the hot summer, t-gt wheel also have that cooling problem what resulted in fading ff.
I will now remove all that plasic stuff and put on a big 12cm fan, hope that works.
- 5,051
- Netherlands
24 is not that hot...was that outside or indoor temp? Let us know how your mod works out!Hi, last saturday first time noticed some ff fading on the t-gt.
It was first day hot weather here, had arround 24°C in my fun-room.
Was driving assetto corsa, the ford1600(50% ff setting), it have a strong steering.
After 4 crazy drift laps on the ring i noticed weaker ff strenght then normal.
I touched the wheel and it was pretty hot!
Force Feedback strenghts fades if wheel get hot.
Looks like this new motor cooling system dosnt work if you go hardcore
Be warned for the hot summer, t-gt wheel also have that cooling problem what resulted in fading ff.
I will now remove all that plasic stuff and put on a big 12cm fan, hope that works.
FPV MIC
Premium
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- GT-MIC
That's fairly cool for you're wheel to get hot @user3392345. It was 31c in the room where I race yesterday and I didn't get any fade or heat build up. FFB on GT Sport @ 3/8 for a bit over 450kms of continual use.
I just looked at the temperature in this room with my computer/race set-up and it's 28c right now... it's 6 in the morning so it's going to be hotter in here today... might have to hit the airconditioner on switch early today.
I just looked at the temperature in this room with my computer/race set-up and it's 28c right now... it's 6 in the morning so it's going to be hotter in here today... might have to hit the airconditioner on switch early today.
user3392345
(Banned)
- 702
- Antarctica
Hi, 24 was room temperature. Not realy hot right, i was little bit surprised too that this happend Its not even summer
In gt-s this not happend yet, even if you put ff to 10 its not that stiff and strong like in AC.
Specially the ford escord rs.
That was a very rare "racing condition", normaly i dont torture my wheel that strong but it was soo funny on this day)
After that maybe 60min nonstop drifting and doing funny stuff, the wheel was hot and had lost strenght.
Atm im to lazy for start solving this potential heat problem.
Maybe on weekend, but it must be done.
Imagine you have the race of your life(im not talking about gt-s daily10min jokes, i talk about endu runs 2-4h) and loose it because of weird output from overheated wheel.
In gt-s this not happend yet, even if you put ff to 10 its not that stiff and strong like in AC.
Specially the ford escord rs.
That was a very rare "racing condition", normaly i dont torture my wheel that strong but it was soo funny on this day
)After that maybe 60min nonstop drifting and doing funny stuff, the wheel was hot and had lost strenght.
Atm im to lazy for start solving this potential heat problem.
Maybe on weekend, but it must be done.
Imagine you have the race of your life(im not talking about gt-s daily10min jokes, i talk about endu runs 2-4h) and loose it because of weird output from overheated wheel.
user3392345
(Banned)
- 702
- Antarctica
Lazy rainy monday, added a fan to the wheel.
Its very easy, just a few screws, no creepy cables or hidden clamps
You can easy remove the hood without any force.
Now cold air in from side. Hot air blows upside.
Just added some holes for an old trashcan fan and removed the grid from hood.
Its very easy, just a few screws, no creepy cables or hidden clamps
You can easy remove the hood without any force.
Now cold air in from side. Hot air blows upside.
Just added some holes for an old trashcan fan and removed the grid from hood.
Attachments
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Lazy rainy monday, added a fan to the wheel.
Its very easy, just a few screws, no creepy cables or hidden clamps
You can easy remove the hood without any force.
Now cold air in from side. Hot air blows upside.
Just added some holes for an old trashcan fan and removed the grid from hood.
Well... So much for selling that motherfu**er on eBay. Lol
- 1,240
- Jounieh
- Georgeagea
Just a question out of curiosity:
I have a G29 + H shifter and it works fine with some minor issues that I'm still trying to fix (wheel off center by like 5 degrees; double upshift and double downshift sometimes).
A new T-GT cost 800$ and the TH8A cost 200$ where I am. So the whole thing would cost me 1000$!
Do you think it's worth it? Does it give me so much better experience than my G29? Is it really 3 times better than the G29 (considering it's triple the price)?
Thank you.
I have a G29 + H shifter and it works fine with some minor issues that I'm still trying to fix (wheel off center by like 5 degrees; double upshift and double downshift sometimes).
A new T-GT cost 800$ and the TH8A cost 200$ where I am. So the whole thing would cost me 1000$!
Do you think it's worth it? Does it give me so much better experience than my G29? Is it really 3 times better than the G29 (considering it's triple the price)?
Thank you.
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