Thrustmaster T-GT Wheel Thread

It turns out T-GT is simply GT branded PS4 version based on TS-PC and isn't direct drive. I feel...

  • Excited - Still a new and the improved wheel for PS4 by Thrustmaster

    Votes: 7 16.7%
  • Fine - Knew it won't be direct drive all along

    Votes: 9 21.4%
  • Disappointed - Not a direct drive

    Votes: 11 26.2%
  • Extremely Disappointed - Not drive drive and poor pedals set

    Votes: 15 35.7%

  • Total voters
    42
  • Poll closed .
Just a question out of curiosity:
I have a G29 + H shifter and it works fine with some minor issues that I'm still trying to fix (wheel off center by like 5 degrees; double upshift and double downshift sometimes).
A new T-GT cost 800$ and the TH8A cost 200$ where I am. So the whole thing would cost me 1000$!
Do you think it's worth it? Does it give me so much better experience than my G29? Is it really 3 times better than the G29 (considering it's triple the price)?
Thank you.
No. For that kind of money absolutely not. Stay with the G29. Below 600 usd I would recommend it.
 
None of those deals, or other dimilar ones,ship to my country. Anything beyond a book or a small gadget cannot be shipped to my country from Amazon so that’s sadly not an option for me. Besides paypal isn’t also available for my country, so official websites aren’t also possible.
 
None of those deals, or other dimilar ones,ship to my country. Anything beyond a book or a small gadget cannot be shipped to my country from Amazon so that’s sadly not an option for me. Besides paypal isn’t also available for my country, so official websites aren’t also possible.
Move to another country?;)
 
Lazy rainy monday, added a fan to the wheel.
Its very easy, just a few screws, no creepy cables or hidden clamps :)
You can easy remove the hood without any force.
Now cold air in from side. Hot air blows upside.
Just added some holes for an old trashcan fan and removed the grid from hood.
Thanks for the photo by the way! I was wondering why the T-GT missed the extra fan, that the TS-PC has on the back. Now I know it is mounted directly under the motor.

FYI if you ever plan to sell the wheel, you can buy the cover separately for about € 60,- (not cheap) but then again its harder to sell one with a whole on the side.
 
I have never sold one of my used wheels... its like selling a used condom LOL :D:D:D
Also i would never buy a used wheel, you never know what someone did to it before :scared::yuck: :D:D

Edit: one of the reasons why i dont want buy or sell used wheels.
Look at the t500 belt- its almost broken everywhere. Maybe it last for another year, maybe for some hours till it break. You would never see it without removing the hood. Dont buy used wheels :)
 

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I have never sold one of my used wheels... its like selling a used condom LOL :D:D:D
Also i would never buy a used wheel, you never know what someone did to it before :scared::yuck: :D:D

Edit: one of the reasons why i dont want buy or sell used wheels.
Look at the t500 belt- its almost broken everywhere. Maybe it last for another year, maybe for some hours till it break. You would never see it without removing the hood. Dont buy used wheels :)
Hahaha, Looking at the size of the hole in your wheelbase, you are savage! What do you do with your wheels??? :lol:

So you "rubber" (belt) broke? :rolleyes:

But in all seriousness replacement Belts should be cheap to replace.
 
Just bought a T-GT and I'm mostly playing GT Sport these days so the T-GT is a great fit for me there.. but all of my other racing games are on PC (PCars 2, Assetto Corsa, Forza 7 / Horizon 3 / Dirt Rally) and the T-GT isn't working as well as I'd hoped on PC.

For some reason I was under the impression that "Other" mode on the T-GT would cause it to be detected as a T300 in PC games, but that hasn't been the case in anything I've tried. Manually setting it up as a custom wheel has worked OK in most games, some better than others. But I haven't found any PC game that lets me navigate menus with the D-pad on the T-GT the same way that I was able to with the G29.

I assume that the wheel would work better in PC games, and require less setup on my part, if it was detected as a T300 (which I think has native support in all of the games I'm trying to play on PC) so it's disappointing to see that I have to start from scratch when setting it up on all my PC games. It's kind of annoying having to rely on a keyboard/mouse for navigating any in-game menus when I was able to just use the controls on my G29 wheel previously.

Has anyone found a way to get better T-GT support in PC games, am I missing something that would cause it to be detected as a more-compatible Thrustmaster wheel like the T300 when in 'Other' mode?
 
Just bought a T-GT and I'm mostly playing GT Sport these days so the T-GT is a great fit for me there.. but all of my other racing games are on PC (PCars 2, Assetto Corsa, Forza 7 / Horizon 3 / Dirt Rally) and the T-GT isn't working as well as I'd hoped on PC.

For some reason I was under the impression that "Other" mode on the T-GT would cause it to be detected as a T300 in PC games, but that hasn't been the case in anything I've tried. Manually setting it up as a custom wheel has worked OK in most games, some better than others. But I haven't found any PC game that lets me navigate menus with the D-pad on the T-GT the same way that I was able to with the G29.

I assume that the wheel would work better in PC games, and require less setup on my part, if it was detected as a T300 (which I think has native support in all of the games I'm trying to play on PC) so it's disappointing to see that I have to start from scratch when setting it up on all my PC games. It's kind of annoying having to rely on a keyboard/mouse for navigating any in-game menus when I was able to just use the controls on my G29 wheel previously.

Has anyone found a way to get better T-GT support in PC games, am I missing something that would cause it to be detected as a more-compatible Thrustmaster wheel like the T300 when in 'Other' mode?
Not a pc gamer, but doesn’t Thrustmaster have a configuration manager on windows that lets you map everything the way you want? Don’t expect plug and play on pc.
 
The Thrustmaster website says the T-GT comes with "T3PGT" pedals. How are these different than the T3PA Pro pedals?



If you see it at this price on Amazon again, you may wish to check Walmart too because of the pickup discount. I picked a T-GT up from Walmart last week for $506 - $16 pickup savings for $490. Unfortunately it looks like the price has gone back up.
There are only 2 differences compared to the standard T3PA (not pro):
- Metal arms on the pedals and not plastic
- Different design pedal plates for all three pedals

The pro is completely made from metal and gives you the option to invert the pedals.
 
Just a bit of an FYI, I thought my transducer had stopped working again but as it turns out it seems to run off of the same vibration setting in the controller set up page that works for the DS4. I'd turned it off to do a bit of 'rubber banding' before the last major update and forgotten to turn it back on. I then switched back to my wheel and there were no transducer effects. Then it dawned on me that turning the vibration off was the only thing that was different, so I switched it back on and voila, fully functioning T-GT once again. I wouldn't have thought that this is how the signal is sent but it seems that it is, so knowing that, shouldn't it be very easy to incorperate into other games???

Also, can someone else please try this to make sure I'm not going crazy.
 
Anyone know an easy way to switch between GT & Other mode without shutting off or unplugging the wheel from PS4? I switch regularly between GTS and Driveclub and I fear I might be damaging the USB ports in the long run because I keep unplugging/replugging it. Other mode in GT works just fine (minus the T-DFB, which I do not care about personally), but using GT mode in Driveclub doesn't work (FFB is all wonky and R2/L2 buttons are reversed).
 
Anyone know an easy way to switch between GT & Other mode without shutting off or unplugging the wheel from PS4? I switch regularly between GTS and Driveclub and I fear I might be damaging the USB ports in the long run because I keep unplugging/replugging it. Other mode in GT works just fine (minus the T-DFB, which I do not care about personally), but using GT mode in Driveclub doesn't work (FFB is all wonky and R2/L2 buttons are reversed).
For me the FFB in Other mode is also broken in driveclub. No FFB only vibration. Sadly no devs anymore to fix it.
 
For me the FFB in Other mode is also broken in driveclub. No FFB only vibration. Sadly no devs anymore to fix it.

Well Driveclub was released way before TGT, so it's expected support is not perfect. At least it's driveable. But with GT Mode the wheel's centering spring feels like it's constantly at maximum torque. You can barely turn 90 degrees.
 
Related to the switching issue above, I notice now that when I switch the wheel mode without plugging it off completely (either from PS4 or wall socket), the next time I boot up and the wheel calibrates it only rotates to one side and gets stuck there. I have to force it to rotate the other way, then it completes the calibration.

Less than 1 year and it's already showing problems. Classic Thrustmaster.
 
Related to the switching issue above, I notice now that when I switch the wheel mode without plugging it off completely (either from PS4 or wall socket), the next time I boot up and the wheel calibrates it only rotates to one side and gets stuck there. I have to force it to rotate the other way, then it completes the calibration.

Less than 1 year and it's already showing problems. Classic Thrustmaster.

You really wonder why the wheel is broken now? How long your PS4 would survive if you just pull out the power plug every time instead of turn it of..... ?
:banghead:
tzur.JPG
http://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/accessories/manuals/TGT/TGT_User_Manual.pdf
 
You really wonder why the wheel is broken now? How long your PS4 would survive if you just pull out the power plug every time instead of turn it of..... ?
:banghead: View attachment 758530 http://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/accessories/manuals/TGT/TGT_User_Manual.pdf
You need to have a read of this and recognise how none of it applies to steering wheels which is why no shut down process exists for a steering wheel (and many other electronic devices like CD players, televisions, microwaves) - there is no write process to disrupt.

https://askleo.com/can-just-unplug-computer-shut/

You have completely misunderstood the reason for thrustmaster putting that paragraph in the manual. The wheel will not change mode on the fly, you have to unplug the USB OR switch it off before it will, hence thrustmaster telling you to disconnect the USB.
 
You need to have a read of this and recognise how none of it applies to steering wheels which is why no shut down process exists for a steering wheel (and many other electronic devices like CD players, televisions, microwaves) - there is no write process to disrupt.

https://askleo.com/can-just-unplug-computer-shut/

You have completely misunderstood the reason for thrustmaster putting that paragraph in the manual. The wheel will not change mode on the fly, you have to unplug the USB OR switch it off before it will, hence thrustmaster telling you to disconnect the USB.

Still a mystery to me why they just didnt put in a powerswitch like the Fanatec's have. Would make the process easier.
 
You really wonder why the wheel is broken now? How long your PS4 would survive if you just pull out the power plug every time instead of turn it of..... ?
:banghead: View attachment 758530 http://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/accessories/manuals/TGT/TGT_User_Manual.pdf

Being the OCD that I am, I did read the manual and that paragraph. But since there is no on/off switch on the wheel, pulling the plug or the USB has the same effect (you can immediately hear the wheel fans and mode light shutting off if you do either). So I figured why not try unplugging to change the switch, to see if that can reduce the amount of plugging/unplugging from the PS4. I only did the wall socket method once or twice btw, and the wheel has been failing its calibration a few times before that as well, so I doubt it's a direct cause. As Matty said, the wheel isn't like a console or computer where it's continuously running a software in the background where you risk damaging system files if you suddenly interrupt power. Do you need to turn off your mouse before unplugging it from your computer?

As always, TM is too shortsighted to implement a simple on/off switch (or even have this hard wired into the mode switch so the wheel resets itself when changing modes). One of many things why my next wheel will be a Fanatec rather than TM/Logitech.
 
Just got a T-GT today, together with the T3PA Pro pedals and a Playseat Challenge. Shortly I would mention that I hard mounted these heavy pedals with a silver plate from a wheelstandpro and of course hard mounted the base on the plate, whereas the Playseat is on the floor mat.
I mention these, because maybe some of these small details can be the cause, but what actually is my question, how strong should the dfb-t/transducer should be?
In GTS mode on GTS, I don’t really feel much vibration from the base through to the pedals or the Playseat. Actually only the wheel is quite strong and I had turn down the ingame ffb settings from 6/6 to 4/4.
Is my base faulty, or how much should I expect?
 
I wouldn't expect the whole rig to shake from such a small shaker in the wheel. It's mostly for vibration to be transferred to your hands..
 
I don’t really feel much vibration from the base through to the pedals or the Playseat.

It's a small 15hz/75watt transducer they're using, similar to a Clark synthesis silver line.

I work on all these wheels on the side, TM has never been my favorite. I think the TGT is a decent wheel but the 500 is their best to date.
 
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