Thrustmaster T-GT Wheel Thread
- Thread starter Soulfresh_ACV
- 1,436 comments
- 267,025 views
FPV MIC
Premium
- 4,325
- Australia
- GT-MIC
Nah, mine's quiet as. My PS4 fan is far louder than any noise my T-GT makes. It does seem like you have an issue but without hearing the sounds you mention it's hard to know. Can you record it?
Also , it may still be under manufacturer warranty (2 years in some countries, 1 year in others) so I would contact Thrustmaster as soon as you can, as it can be a fairly long process with emails going back and forth.
Last edited:
- 1,240
- Jounieh
- Georgeagea
Question; did anyone managed to make the special GT features of the T-GT (TDFB and dials) work on PC?!? (say with AC or PC2 or any PC sim?!)
LeGeNd-1
Premium
- 7,264
- Australia
- GTP_LeGeNd-1
Thanks for the reply.... a bit disappointed with the quality
Yeah that does sound broken. Sounds like a piece of plastic stuck in moving part or something. Hope you can get it replaced 👍
The T-GT fan is the loudest sound for me, even louder than the PS4 fan (and I sit only 30cm from my PS4). I disabled my T-DFB for months now because I don't like the effect. Hopefully that helps the longevity of the wheel.
The dials actually works in Assetto Corsa even in "Other" mode. I use it to adjust brake balance, TC, ABS and turbo %. DFB doesn't work but AC laser scanned tracks provide a much better FFB than GTS' canned wannabe DFB anyway.
- 5,051
- Netherlands
- 790
- weescotman
- never going to happen
Any help would be appreciated, bought the t-gt, and put the brake mod on, (done it after I'd switched everything on, only got a third of my braking capacity. Turned it all off unplugged it all and tried again, with the same result. Is this what's supposed to happen? As I read that after calibration with the brake mod, you press the pedal 5 times and that would be where the 100% brake would be with the mod attached.
FPV MIC
Premium
- 4,325
- Australia
- GT-MIC
No, it's not supposed to be like that. It's best to have the brake mod screwed in all the way to give it the most play it can have. As you have done, I would turn the PS4 and T-GT off, check the brake mod is all the way back, reboot everything (in the correct order), and then once in game (if in GT Sport), enter a time trial and go on track. Once on track, just press the brake as hard as you would under threshold braking and hold it until you see the brake bar move to the top.
Hopefully this will work. I don't bother with the press five times bit, pressing and holding does the same. Good luck.
Interesting price these days: https://www.cnet.com/deals/thrustma...or-ps4-and-pc-for-420-free-shipping-17676569/
- 790
- weescotman
- never going to happen
This is with the brake mod attached,
- 5,051
- Netherlands
In Gt sport, the first race, you need to press the brake in as hard as you can, afterwards it will be calibrated. Repeat everytime you startup GT sport.
You should do that with all three pedals every time you start your wheel, otherwise software cannot know when potentiometers in pedals are at 100%.
- 1,240
- Jounieh
- Georgeagea
As much as I would like to get this awesome TGT wheel with that special rumbling feature, but whenever I read something like this quote below: I thank my God I got the G29 instead.
Never had any calibration issue whether in-game or in general.
Never had to connect it to a PC to update it or revert back (coz I see firmware updates cause lots of issues),etc...
Praise the lord for the "Plug and Play" awesomeness!
NB: It's one the ways to convince myself that I have an awesome wheel and that I don't need to update to anything else.
I never did this! Never! Not once! Never in any game whatsoever on my PS4!
Never had any calibration issue whether in-game or in general.
Never had to connect it to a PC to update it or revert back (coz I see firmware updates cause lots of issues),etc...
Praise the lord for the "Plug and Play" awesomeness!
NB: It's one the ways to convince myself that I have an awesome wheel and that I don't need to update to anything else.
- 220
- Germany
Standard procedure in every game on every platform.
Fully pressing gas, brake and clutch pedal.
Steering once full to left&right.
Done.
Fully pressing gas, brake and clutch pedal.
Steering once full to left&right.
Done.
The wheel does that automatically upon turning on. You have to press pedals because they have no motors to calibrate themselves.
Well, you don't need to do that, but until you do 100% input will be at about half of the pressed pedal.
- 790
- weescotman
- never going to happen
So when would you guys press the pedals to calibrate them? As the game starts up or when I'm in the pits ready to race?
- 5,051
- Netherlands
During the first race.
To be fair some people do report alibration issues with the G29 because of the rubber mod. GTsports exactly acts the same way with the G29 pedals. However I suspect that the user that encountered the issue with his brakes, probably has his brake mod very stiff.
Anytime after the wheel is powered up. You calibrate pedals with software in the wheel, not a game.
- 5,051
- Netherlands
- 790
- weescotman
- never going to happen
OK final question, anyone recommend a decent wheel stand to go with the new wheel? You guys have been awesome with the help. 
LeGeNd-1
Premium
- 7,264
- Australia
- GTP_LeGeNd-1
This is probably not helpful, but I don't find the conical brake mod to be of any use or advantage. It's wayyyyy too stiff and I can't reach max brake pressure even if I press as hard as I can. Coupled with the wonky GTS ABS Off implementation and it's just simply not a raceable setup. It's just a poor effort to simulate a load cell, and you're better off just not using it IMO. I know it's not as realistic as load cell, but with time and practice you can use your foot's position to gauge how much brake you need for ABS Off.
The standard TGT pedals are probably not helping you either. I got a Ricmotech adapter and used my G25 pedals which has much stiffer brakes. It's the perfect setup 👍
- 1,917
- Finland
- HI-tauer
Steam is driving me insane. My Thrustmaster T-GT works flawlesly in my pc, but as soon as i run steam the controller dies.. Even the ffb centering is lost. WTF? It seems steam uses some generic drivers of its own instead of the thrustmaster drivers. I have tried deleting all controller data from steam to make steam "reinstal" the wheel but nope. Still "generic controller"..
I assume someone here also plays in steam..
I assume someone here also plays in steam..
- 220
- Germany
Works fine here! I think you messed up something within the steam controller setup(Why you use this?). Once i used the steam controller thing, nothing worked anymore here to. It is a kind of joy to key/key to joy emulator. Deactivate it, you dont need it!
https://steamcommunity.com/discussions/forum/1/1354868867713562293/
If you want use your wheel with steam games, just plug them in, install driver, done. No need to create steam controller(its just a emulator to use any kind of input device as a joypad)
Last edited:
- 3
- Hungary
Guys. Is there a way to turn off T-DFB in GT Sport completely? Switching to Other mode makes it maybe feels less, but is definitely there.
FPV MIC
Premium
- 4,325
- Australia
- GT-MIC
Switching off the vibration setting works. Go to Menu (top left) > Options > Controllers > Vibration > Controller 1 and set to Off (hope this is correct, I'm not in front of my PS4 atm).
Last edited:
- 3
- Hungary
Which means i can only switch it off completely? I wanted to have the normal force feedback but without that GT Sport exclusive “deep force feedback”.
Similar threads
