Thrustmaster T300RS Racing Wheel Thread

Are the stock pedals good enough or do you use something else?

  • Yes, stock pedals are good enough

    Votes: 111 33.9%
  • No, I use Thrustmaster TP3A or third-party pedals

    Votes: 216 66.1%

  • Total voters
    327
  • Poll closed .
From what I understand (without owning a PS4 yet, didn't bother with driveclub) you currently can't use controller and wheel at the same time in game, so you really can't use Share inside Driveclub when running the T500. We'll see in future games if this is a limitation of the PS4 or of Driveclub itself... The only sure way to have full functionality is to buy a fully PS4 compatible wheel I.e. The T300.

In terms of relative qualities of the two Thrustmaster wheels, there are various threads discussing them in the pCARS and hardware forums. No need to turn this thread into a comparison thread.

I will note that the Thrustmaster comparison table is fair: I agree with their representation of the differences. But clearly the T300 is still in early adopter teething troubles phase whereas the T500 has been on the market nearly 4 years and all the little niggles have been fixed. Plus the pedals really are much better, obviously.
 
lol nice one, so the share button is a bit of a down side to for the 500, but that could be done by controller surly?

so if you had the choice jay would you still go for the 300 or 500?

Yep pretty much, Controller needs to be plugged in when using a T500 to navigate menus , share, options etc but once in game is no different to the T300... Everything will work as expected with a T500 on PS4 when playing:tup:

As for my choice I did think long and hard about it before deciding on a T300, one of the things that swung me was isr review where DG said it is pretty much his wheel of choice at the moment...the guy uses a lot of wheels so if he is impressed with it then it will be very good imo....

Things that impressed me with the T500 are the 3 pedal set and a slightly larger Rim but was mainly put off by the not 100% PS4 Compatibility issue and decided if spending £300 I want a wheel that I know will work 100% with PS4 for years to come...

So yep still Happy I went for the T300 as apart from the annoying clicking mine is making it is actually working perfectly fine and is a stunning wheel and couldn't be happier with its performance. Really looking forward to matching it up with a decent pedal set once I get this replaced/repaired.
 
I haven't mate no can you fill me in, in a nutshell.....lazy?:guilty::nervous:

It's not looking good :irked: Quite a few common problems, some which need it to be sent to the manufacturer for repairs and it looks like at least 50% have some sort of problem virtually straight out of the box :scared: Poor build quality it sounds like
 
It's not looking good :irked: Quite a few common problems, some which need it to be sent to the manufacturer for repairs and it looks like at least 50% have some sort of problem virtually straight out of the box :scared: Poor build quality it sounds like
Oh blimey:scared: oh well give it another 6 months development I'll be ready around then anyway.:D
 
Ok, so what about the photo? :) As I wrote before TM support removed the major clunks but did not remove minor clicks. You are right its quite wheel. Maybe one day I will decide I wont have my wheel clicking and send it to RMA again but for now I can live with it :)

Ok, some pics. :)

left.JPG
right.JPG
 
Ahh, excellent post. Now I get it. Yes, the spot you marked is clearly clicking source. But I am not sure if this can be easily repaired, or do you think its possible? Thanks for the pictures!

Actually, on a second thought, I am not so sure anymore that this is really the source. Because the white edge of that wheel certainly rotates with the belt. But on the other hand, when I pull the belt into the middle of the toothwheel and start rotating to the right, the noise always starts only when the belt slipped back against the edge. But, as I said, the toothwheel and its edge rotates with belt of course.

But, as far as I can see, the belt does not touch any other object to grind against.
 
@WeamDreaver @jay.s

Guys, I made two more videos today.

First one - the wheel auto-centering after the start. Can you hear anything suspicious please? Please do not care about the noise in the background (Playstation is booting with bluray disk inside).



And the second one - actually in my case I can hear the "click" when the wheel is rotating to the left only.

 
All these 'horror stories' about the T300 made me decide to replace my DFGT pedals with CSR Elites. I'll keep my noisy and notchy DFGT wheel for now. Love the pedals 👍, very reliable wheel :cheers:.
 
This thread feels like deja vu from the CSW v1 launch period.... Same "omg 50% of wheels are faulty" hyperbole :)

If you don't want more than a tiny risk of issues, don't buy a new wheel during the first 6 months of production. Easy :D


P.S. Good choice Insert Coin. And those pedals will serve you well in the future should you decide to upgrade your wheel later on...
 
@WeamDreaver @jay.s

Guys, I made two more videos today.

First one - the wheel auto-centering after the start. Can you hear anything suspicious please? Please do not care about the noise in the background (Playstation is booting with bluray disk inside).



And the second one - actually in my case I can hear the "click" when the wheel is rotating to the left only.



Can't hear anything suspicious. Only the click in the second video. But regarding the click, have you tried removing the rim and then move the rim itself (shaking, rotating etc.)? Maybe the click is coming from the wheel itself?
 
Can't hear anything suspicious. Only the click in the second video. But regarding the click, have you tried removing the rim and then move the rim itself (shaking, rotating etc.)? Maybe the click is coming from the wheel itself?

When the wheel base is not powered (and there is no centering force) there is no click while rotating the wheel, so I am pretty sure its going from the base.
 
@WeamDreaver @jay.s

Guys, I made two more videos today.

First one - the wheel auto-centering after the start. Can you hear anything suspicious please? Please do not care about the noise in the background (Playstation is booting with bluray disk inside).



And the second one - actually in my case I can hear the "click" when the wheel is rotating to the left only.




I here the click when the wheel is about to spin up and when the rim is at about 90 degrees to the left.
But one thing for sure is this noise can not be from the drive belt up against the motor gear shoulder as the belt is rubber and the gears are nylon - this could not create the metallic clicking sound that is apparent in the videos.
I believe it is coming from some end play in the limiter worm gear drive area which is nothing to worry about.
As the rim starts to rotate the worm gear will take up the end play in the shaft and when rotating in the other direction under force the worm gear will then move towards the opposite end of it`s endplay thus the metallic click sound.
If the endplay was less this effect would be less noticeable but some end play is necessary.
 
Ahh, excellent post. Now I get it. Yes, the spot you marked is clearly clicking source. But I am not sure if this can be easily repaired, or do you think its possible? Thanks for the pictures!

@jay.s
Are you gonna send the base to Thrusmaster?

Have spoken to Shopto today and they are collecting the wheel tomorrow and sending me a new one out... ( Very good Customer service btw :D)

Hopefully the new one will be all good if not can either return it again or send back to Thrustmaster for repair. Fingers crossed I just got sent a bad unit as apparently I was the 1st person to call Shopto needing a replacement and they have sold quite a few....makes me think how many are going to be returned after Christmas:irked:

As for your videos I would be very happy if mine sounded the same as yours in the 1st video i.e: Silent and not clicking while rotating! 2nd vid can hear a single click but seems to only do it at one point when turning far to the left..
 
Last edited:
Just set up my new T300RS with G25 peddles and Play Seat, before I get a chance to use it my daughter jumps in and blasts round the Red Bull Ring!

… Looks like my dog is the next up before me..



10665379_914472728563470_4192353476644356871_n.jpg
 
Last edited:
For anyone that might be interested in ditching the stock T300 pedals and doesn't have CSR elites (etc), the T3PA are available from the Thrustmaster UK shop as of 9.30 GMT.
 
Nice Approach, but Manual shifting makes me much slower in racing games (GT6), so I prefer Automatic with all cars. I never got a quick lap whith Manual shifting (even though I have friends who tell me it's quicker than Automatic), but it detracts me from driving when I have to think too much about when and where to shift, costs me seconds regardless on which track.
IRL it's different, but I don't drive races IRL (but funny enough: the Automatic Version of my Toyota GT86 is slower than my Version with Manual shifting! Needs 1 second longer to reach 100 km/h and top Speed is lower by 7 km/h !).

I believe in real racing the reason Clutch and shifter manual transmissions are used is due to reliability of them under the strain of high performance racing, but now more reliable elements are applied where the paddle and sequential shifters can be use with same reliability, and Clutch and Shifter manual transmissions have gone the way of the dodo bird, but they are cool for authentic nostalgia with older cars, but as far as racing goes, the paddle shifter and Auto transmissions are much faster so those drivers have the advantage, I think they should give an option in online racing in performance filter where the host can choose the Club or Room transmission, I have a thread in GT7 suggestions, if you agree give it a like.
 
I believe in real racing the reason Clutch and shifter manual transmissions are used is due to reliability of them under the strain of high performance racing, but now more reliable elements are applied where the paddle and sequential shifters can be use with same reliability, and Clutch and Shifter manual transmissions have gone the way of the dodo bird, but they are cool for authentic nostalgia with older cars, but as far as racing goes, the paddle shifter and Auto transmissions are much faster so those drivers have the advantage, I think they should give an option in online racing in performance filter where the host can choose the Club or Room transmission, I have a thread in GT7 suggestions, if you agree give it a like.
There are still loads of racing cars with sequential stick shift, and no clutch. And in rally you have two sticks: sequential and handbrake.

Getting a shifter which can do both (for instance the TH8A) allows flexibility.
 
This thread feels like deja vu from the CSW v1 launch period.... Same "omg 50% of wheels are faulty" hyperbole :)

If you don't want more than a tiny risk of issues, don't buy a new wheel during the first 6 months of production. Easy :D


P.S. Good choice Insert Coin. And those pedals will serve you well in the future should you decide to upgrade your wheel later on...

That is exactly what I did, I bought a T80 until GT 7 is released, by that time they will have worked out all the faults, and a price drop. waiting for GT 7. I hope Walmart will start to carry this wheel because they have a the cheapest extended warranty, or service plan, and no hassle returns, they have the T500 available but not the T300RS as of yet, but I will keep trolling Walmart website for the T300RS for next year purchase.
 
Last edited:
There are still loads of racing cars with sequential stick shift, and no clutch. And in rally you have two sticks: sequential and handbrake.

Getting a shifter which can do both (for instance the TH8A) allows flexibility.

That's correct, but I was comparing the difficulty level between the two, all modern Race cars have either Sequential shifters or Paddle Shifters, because they have an advantage over the Clutch & H-Pattern Shifter Manual Transmissions, and that same advantage is in GT 6 between the two different transmission types.👍
 
If you don't want more than a tiny risk of issues, don't buy a new wheel during the first 6 months of production. Easy :D


Exactly, every time I buy rev00 products I have to acknowledge that I'm willing to take the risk.

Jerome
 
Have spoken to Shopto today and they are collecting the wheel tomorrow and sending me a new one out... ( Very good Customer service btw :D)

Hopefully the new one will be all good if not can either return it again or send back to Thrustmaster for repair. Fingers crossed I just got sent a bad unit as apparently I was the 1st person to call Shopto needing a replacement and they have sold quite a few....makes me think how many are going to be returned after Christmas:irked:

As for your videos I would be very happy if mine sounded the same as yours in the 1st video i.e: Silent and not clicking while rotating! 2nd vid can hear a single click but seems to only do it at one point when turning far to the left..

Yes i would like to hear if there replacement is good, also how long did your original order take to come?

cheers
 
What problems there has been with t300 pedals?? I'm about to order one, but this worries me still! Should I order one?
 
Back