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- Devon UK
- johnboy-1975-
Thanks for the info everyone, really disappointing to see there are major issues.
@V8-Johnboy hope you're taking note
I haven't mate no can you fill me in, in a nutshell.....lazy?
Thanks for the info everyone, really disappointing to see there are major issues.
@V8-Johnboy hope you're taking note
lol nice one, so the share button is a bit of a down side to for the 500, but that could be done by controller surly?
so if you had the choice jay would you still go for the 300 or 500?
I haven't mate no can you fill me in, in a nutshell.....lazy?
Oh blimey oh well give it another 6 months development I'll be ready around then anyway.It's not looking good Quite a few common problems, some which need it to be sent to the manufacturer for repairs and it looks like at least 50% have some sort of problem virtually straight out of the box Poor build quality it sounds like
Oh blimey oh well give it another 6 months development I'll be ready around then anyway.
Things may be a little cheaper for us tight arses to.Yeh that's my plan now, I'll leave it until a few months after PCARS I think and avoid all the bugs hopefully
Things may be a little cheaper for us tight arses to.
Ok, so what about the photo? As I wrote before TM support removed the major clunks but did not remove minor clicks. You are right its quite wheel. Maybe one day I will decide I wont have my wheel clicking and send it to RMA again but for now I can live with it
Bite's tongue.Nowt wrong with being a tight arse (I won't do any sexual jokes about that as long as you don't mate)
Ahh, excellent post. Now I get it. Yes, the spot you marked is clearly clicking source. But I am not sure if this can be easily repaired, or do you think its possible? Thanks for the pictures!
Ahh, excellent post. Now I get it. Yes, the spot you marked is clearly clicking source. But I am not sure if this can be easily repaired, or do you think its possible? Thanks for the pictures!
@WeamDreaver @jay.s
Guys, I made two more videos today.
First one - the wheel auto-centering after the start. Can you hear anything suspicious please? Please do not care about the noise in the background (Playstation is booting with bluray disk inside).
And the second one - actually in my case I can hear the "click" when the wheel is rotating to the left only.
Can't hear anything suspicious. Only the click in the second video. But regarding the click, have you tried removing the rim and then move the rim itself (shaking, rotating etc.)? Maybe the click is coming from the wheel itself?
@WeamDreaver @jay.s
Guys, I made two more videos today.
First one - the wheel auto-centering after the start. Can you hear anything suspicious please? Please do not care about the noise in the background (Playstation is booting with bluray disk inside).
And the second one - actually in my case I can hear the "click" when the wheel is rotating to the left only.
Ahh, excellent post. Now I get it. Yes, the spot you marked is clearly clicking source. But I am not sure if this can be easily repaired, or do you think its possible? Thanks for the pictures!
@jay.s
Are you gonna send the base to Thrusmaster?
Nice Approach, but Manual shifting makes me much slower in racing games (GT6), so I prefer Automatic with all cars. I never got a quick lap whith Manual shifting (even though I have friends who tell me it's quicker than Automatic), but it detracts me from driving when I have to think too much about when and where to shift, costs me seconds regardless on which track.
IRL it's different, but I don't drive races IRL (but funny enough: the Automatic Version of my Toyota GT86 is slower than my Version with Manual shifting! Needs 1 second longer to reach 100 km/h and top Speed is lower by 7 km/h !).
There are still loads of racing cars with sequential stick shift, and no clutch. And in rally you have two sticks: sequential and handbrake.I believe in real racing the reason Clutch and shifter manual transmissions are used is due to reliability of them under the strain of high performance racing, but now more reliable elements are applied where the paddle and sequential shifters can be use with same reliability, and Clutch and Shifter manual transmissions have gone the way of the dodo bird, but they are cool for authentic nostalgia with older cars, but as far as racing goes, the paddle shifter and Auto transmissions are much faster so those drivers have the advantage, I think they should give an option in online racing in performance filter where the host can choose the Club or Room transmission, I have a thread in GT7 suggestions, if you agree give it a like.
This thread feels like deja vu from the CSW v1 launch period.... Same "omg 50% of wheels are faulty" hyperbole
If you don't want more than a tiny risk of issues, don't buy a new wheel during the first 6 months of production. Easy
P.S. Good choice Insert Coin. And those pedals will serve you well in the future should you decide to upgrade your wheel later on...
There are still loads of racing cars with sequential stick shift, and no clutch. And in rally you have two sticks: sequential and handbrake.
Getting a shifter which can do both (for instance the TH8A) allows flexibility.
If you don't want more than a tiny risk of issues, don't buy a new wheel during the first 6 months of production. Easy
Have spoken to Shopto today and they are collecting the wheel tomorrow and sending me a new one out... ( Very good Customer service btw )
Hopefully the new one will be all good if not can either return it again or send back to Thrustmaster for repair. Fingers crossed I just got sent a bad unit as apparently I was the 1st person to call Shopto needing a replacement and they have sold quite a few....makes me think how many are going to be returned after Christmas
As for your videos I would be very happy if mine sounded the same as yours in the 1st video i.e: Silent and not clicking while rotating! 2nd vid can hear a single click but seems to only do it at one point when turning far to the left..