Thrustmaster T300RS Racing Wheel Thread
- Thread starter Soulfresh_ACV
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- Netherlands
- skazz-race
- skazzracer
- 114
- VincentVegaSWE or GTP_VincentVega
After a couple of weeks the cooling fan in my T300 started making a bad noise as it revs up for the first time after like a day's rest. After a minute or so the noise ends and the fan sounds normal. So now I'm wondering if I should send the wheel back or if the problem might solve itself by som kind of magic.
- 508
- United States
Finally!! After Calling Walmart Corporate Office repeatedly, they finally have The T300RS for sale, This is GREAT news, because there is one in just about every city in the U.S. that means free shipping for store pick-up, plus Walmart has an excellent Extended Service Plan for $57.00 for 3 Years:
It works with the T500 Wheel, The Ferrari Wheel, and The Ferrai F1 Wheel.
This may sound odd, but you can use some 2.75 inch wide duct tape, just wrap it around the heel rest of your peddles and floor of your Wheel Stand, It may look funky but it works like A dream, it wont even swivel.Hi,
I finally got some time to take few photos of my setup. I have to confirm that Next Level Wheel Stand is really rock solid! It won't move at all even with really heavy breaking. Even the shifter holder is very sturdy.
Now I have to wait for CPX adapter and then I will finally exchange the stock T300 pedals for CSR Elites. And after that I will also figure out the wires
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Hi Everyone, I have a question on my new t300rs thrustmaster.
I've read the last few pages regarding problems and I probably shouldn't have!
Anyway, On my pedal set the accelerator doesnt respond for the first 30% or more and the brake maybe a similar amount. Perhaps about 2cm of travel. However, after this point I feel I can brake fully or accelerate fully and it seems smooth, its just I have a narrower band of control to work with.
It is silent and no clicking so far (only had it on for an hour as its an xmas present)
1. Is this actually a fault, there seems to be a lot of cases.
2. Would you send it back or try and fix them yourself (by reading the above posts suggesting how to) I have no calibrating sets so I am assuming its a twist of a dial or something I need to adjust once the pedal set is open. I`m a novice at these quality of set ups but am fairly handy and confident with a screwdriver!
No where including the place I bought it from have them now in stock.
I bought the wheel a week ago.
On a side note, when I first tried the wheel i seemed to disconnect from the server and then my wheel stopped working, it just aimed right and I could not get it to respond at all. Was this due to the server issue on drive club, it seems odd.
Kev
I've read the last few pages regarding problems and I probably shouldn't have!
Anyway, On my pedal set the accelerator doesnt respond for the first 30% or more and the brake maybe a similar amount. Perhaps about 2cm of travel. However, after this point I feel I can brake fully or accelerate fully and it seems smooth, its just I have a narrower band of control to work with.
It is silent and no clicking so far (only had it on for an hour as its an xmas present)
1. Is this actually a fault, there seems to be a lot of cases.
2. Would you send it back or try and fix them yourself (by reading the above posts suggesting how to) I have no calibrating sets so I am assuming its a twist of a dial or something I need to adjust once the pedal set is open. I`m a novice at these quality of set ups but am fairly handy and confident with a screwdriver!
No where including the place I bought it from have them now in stock.
I bought the wheel a week ago.
On a side note, when I first tried the wheel i seemed to disconnect from the server and then my wheel stopped working, it just aimed right and I could not get it to respond at all. Was this due to the server issue on drive club, it seems odd.
Kev
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- 508
- United States
@ccaranna, I created A thread for Transmission Options in [Performance Filter] (For Online Racing) in GT 7 For Hosting rooms with manual clutch and H-pattern shifter transmissions only, if you think this sounds like a great idea, give it a like so we can help get it done. https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...r-online-racing-in-gt-7.320816/#post-10295830
- 50
- United States
May be I am missing something, it's $399 everywhere with free shipping, why bother with WM?View attachment 271363
Finally!! After Calling Walmart Corporate Office repeatedly, they finally have The T300RS for sale, This is GREAT news, because there is one in just about every city in the U.S. that means free shipping for store pick-up, plus Walmart has an excellent Extended Service Plan for $57.00 for 3 Years:View attachment 271366 This is the reason why I was so persistent, the listed price at launch is $450.00, but that won't last long, Walmart will match any price, and beat most, this means we will soon see the price of the Thrustmaster T300RS drop to possibly to the mid Three Hundreds http://www.walmart.com/ip/Thrustmaster-4169072-T300-RS-Force-Feedback-Wheel-for-PS4/41975121 So when project Cars is released I will buy my PS4 & T300RS from Walmart, Get ready to watch the price drop.
It's not looking goodQuite a few common problems, some which need it to be sent to the manufacturer for repairs and it looks like at least 50% have some sort of problem virtually straight out of the box
Poor build quality it sounds like
I went through two T300's before returning them for a refund.
The first one had major clunking issues and second (replacement) wasn't as bad but still had a clunk issue and was very distracting when using. I tried hard to ignore it the second time round but once I knew it was there, that was it.
I was pretty annoyed considering the rip off p**cks here in NZ were charging $799 for these. I'd say that their entire stock would've been faulty. Hopefully the next batch that arrives here (whenever that will be) will be fault free but seeing all the multiple issues that other people are having, I'm not holding out much hope.....
- 170
- jay-16v
The replacement better be good lol... will be getting sent out today so should have it tomorrow and will take a quick video when it arrives
The original order took a day to arrive, was ordered on Monday morning and arrived by Tuesday lunchtime via dpd
- 645
- ENGLAND
- STEVE182rs
Yes dpd are very good
- 508
- United States
As I said
And with the problems I keep seeing reported on GT planet with the T300RS, Walmart has no hassle returns and quick repairs. so that's why I bother, Great Customer Service, and since they have so many locations, you wont have to ship it back to have it repaired which cost $$$$, just drive to your local Walmart Return it for another, or have Walmart ship it to have it repaired, and if it can't be repaired, Walmart will replace it with a new one, all in one stop
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- 1,762
- NG9
- Shin_Roh
Hey Kev, good news is you're in safe hands here
Firstly it's no drama to take the box apart, you need one screwdriver that's it, just make sure it properly fits so you don't damage any of the screws!
Take off the pedals first, then remove the screws underneath one by one. Don't forget the one hiding under where the cable comes in!
When you remove the top part have a good look around and know what you're looking at. If you hold down the base at this point and put one of the pedals through its travel you will see how they work. This is where the problem lies!
The potentiometers have been set incorrectly and all we have to do is turn them through their travel to the correct location so the pedals engage them at the appropriate point.
Make sure you've gone to ts.thrustmaster.com and downloaded the firmware updater. In here there is a calibration tool so you can connect your T300 to your laptop/pc and see exactly where the potentiometers need to move. Connect your pedals to your pc before you start fine tuning, and press the pedals through their full travel too. Now you can start fiddling with the pedal box. Note that the top half presses the pedals about an inch or so before they should start to engage. This is part of the reason you need to adjust and re-adjust until you get it right.
Just so you know, mine pedals are set perfectly now. 100% free of deadzones, instant engagement on touching them and full travel on both. Perfect. However, I won't lie, this took 5-10 attempts of opening and closing the pedal box fully to achieve. You must have patience!
But trust me it's worth it.
Setting the potentiometers takes some trial and error but the most annoying part is getting the top back on. The most effective way I found is to post the pedals through the top half then turn the box over so the pedals are touching the floor (preferably carpet). Carefully line up the two half's at the bottom part of the box and apply a small amount of pressure while guiding the brake spring into its correct location. It needs to go over the nobble on both the base and the pedal itself. Bit fiddley but essential. When everything is lined up properly place your knee in the centre of the base and apply pressure while guiding the two halves together. Now they're in place you have both hands free to insert screws. Screw in as many as you can from this position then remove your knee to do the remaining ones low down.
Job done!
Hope all goes well buddy. Let us know how you get on!
Oh and regarding the Driveclub issue I can't really comment as I use the controller currently to save having to adapt going back and forth from GT6. You will have to get some track time with it to diagnose but that would be a new issue with the wheel itself I don't think any of us have heard of before. So unlikely. More likely it was Driveclub 👍
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Hey Kev, good news is you're in safe hands here
Firstly it's no drama to take the box apart, you need one screwdriver that's it, just make sure it properly fits so you don't damage any of the screws!
Take off the pedals first, then remove the screws underneath one by one. Don't forget the one hiding under where the cable comes in!
When you remove the top part have a good look around and know what you're looking at. If you hold down the base at this point and put one of the pedals through its travel you will see how they work. This is where the problem lies!
The potentiometers have been set incorrectly and all we have to do is turn them through their travel to the correct location so the pedals engage them at the appropriate point.
Make sure you've gone to ts.thrustmaster.com and downloaded the firmware updater. In here there is a calibration tool so you can connect your T300 to your laptop/pc and see exactly where the potentiometers need to move. Connect your pedals to your pc before you start fine tuning, and press the pedals through their full travel too. Now you can start fiddling with the pedal box. Note that the top half presses the pedals about an inch or so before they should start to engage. This is part of the reason you need to adjust and re-adjust until you get it right.
Just so you know, mine pedals are set perfectly now. 100% free of deadzones, instant engagement on touching them and full travel on both. Perfect. However, I won't lie, this took 5-10 attempts of opening and closing the pedal box fully to achieve. You must have patience!
But trust me it's worth it.
Setting the potentiometers takes some trial and error but the most annoying part is getting the top back on. The most effective way I found is to post the pedals through the top half then turn the box over so the pedals are touching the floor (preferably carpet). Carefully line up the two half's at the bottom part of the box and apply a small amount of pressure while guiding the brake spring into its correct location. It needs to go over the nobble on both the base and the pedal itself. Bit fiddley but essential. When everything is lined up properly place your knee in the centre of the base and apply pressure while guiding the two halves together. Now they're in place you have both hands free to insert screws. Screw in as many as you can from this position then remove your knee to do the remaining ones low down.
Job done!
Hope all goes well buddy. Let us know how you get on!
Oh and regarding the Driveclub issue I can't really comment as I use the controller currently to save having to adapt going back and forth from GT6. You will have to get some track time with it to diagnose but that would be a new issue with the wheel itself I don't think any of us have heard of before. So unlikely. More likely it was Driveclub 👍
Hi, thanks for the response, I have the accelerator set bob on no problem, but no matter what I do I cant set the brake one, do you screw the whole thing together before you re-test? Im holding the thing together with my hands and testing it and I can get it too start at the right point but then it doesnt go all the way up on peddle bar on the tester????? I find that bizarre!
- 1,762
- NG9
- Shin_Roh
It's a pain dude but yeah pretty much! If you don't rebuild it all the way you can't accurately set the potentiometer. I was opening the box, moving the potentiometer one click and rebuilding. Grrrr! 
I got it in the end, no quick fix unfortunately mate.
One thing I forgot to mention,.. I made a habit of disconnecting the wheel and closing the firmware updater every time I changed the pedal calibration. Just to be sure.
When you plug it in that final time and it all works well it's proper satisfying
I got it in the end, no quick fix unfortunately mate. One thing I forgot to mention,.. I made a habit of disconnecting the wheel and closing the firmware updater every time I changed the pedal calibration. Just to be sure.
When you plug it in that final time and it all works well it's proper satisfying
Hey Kev, good news is you're in safe hands here
Firstly it's no drama to take the box apart, you need one screwdriver that's it, just make sure it properly fits so you don't damage any of the screws!
Take off the pedals first, then remove the screws underneath one by one. Don't forget the one hiding under where the cable comes in!
When you remove the top part have a good look around and know what you're looking at. If you hold down the base at this point and put one of the pedals through its travel you will see how they work. This is where the problem lies!
The potentiometers have been set incorrectly and all we have to do is turn them through their travel to the correct location so the pedals engage them at the appropriate point.
Make sure you've gone to ts.thrustmaster.com and downloaded the firmware updater. In here there is a calibration tool so you can connect your T300 to your laptop/pc and see exactly where the potentiometers need to move. Connect your pedals to your pc before you start fine tuning, and press the pedals through their full travel too. Now you can start fiddling with the pedal box. Note that the top half presses the pedals about an inch or so before they should start to engage. This is part of the reason you need to adjust and re-adjust until you get it right.
Just so you know, mine pedals are set perfectly now. 100% free of deadzones, instant engagement on touching them and full travel on both. Perfect. However, I won't lie, this took 5-10 attempts of opening and closing the pedal box fully to achieve. You must have patience!
But trust me it's worth it.
Setting the potentiometers takes some trial and error but the most annoying part is getting the top back on. The most effective way I found is to post the pedals through the top half then turn the box over so the pedals are touching the floor (preferably carpet). Carefully line up the two half's at the bottom part of the box and apply a small amount of pressure while guiding the brake spring into its correct location. It needs to go over the nobble on both the base and the pedal itself. Bit fiddley but essential. When everything is lined up properly place your knee in the centre of the base and apply pressure while guiding the two halves together. Now they're in place you have both hands free to insert screws. Screw in as many as you can from this position then remove your knee to do the remaining ones low down.
Job done!
Hope all goes well buddy. Let us know how you get on!
Oh and regarding the Driveclub issue I can't really comment as I use the controller currently to save having to adapt going back and forth from GT6. You will have to get some track time with it to diagnose but that would be a new issue with the wheel itself I don't think any of us have heard of before. So unlikely. More likely it was Driveclub 👍
Oh my god.............after about 30 attempts and screwing the thing together to test ive cracked it!!!!
I did the brake by pushing the brake pedal onto the spring just enough so it wouldnt pop off with the gauge set at zero and a little pressure bringing the pressure bar on with the tester, tightened it and hey presto.
My thanks go out to all on here and especially those who wrote about this, and of course Captain Roh. Absolutely awesome.
just re-tested as you advised. I`m absolutely chuffed. Another Beer me thinks
- 1,762
- NG9
- Shin_Roh
Glad we could save you the lengthy refund process Happy racing chum 👍
Happy racing chum 👍- 122
- xXHeroStar1988Xx
I am been waiting for bashboard over 3 months 
I am more keen for CPX of my T300RS
I am more keen for CPX of my T300RSworked great on driveclub last night. thevwheel is very strong. xmas day i will be hooking it up to my gameracer seat!Glad we could save you the lengthy refund process
I decided to take the plunge and ordered one from Shopto. Their ordering process was pretty strange with the account creation and text message verification (which didn't work) but using Paypal and calling the friendly customer service apparently has gotten it ordered. I should see it on Monday.
- 1,762
- NG9
- Shin_Roh
Glad to hear it dude
To be fair some aspects of Driveclub physics and feedback are really quite brilliant. However the way they're applied make it an arcade title without question, feels very unnatural for me to drive it with my T300. For now I'll stick to my controller and save the wheel for Gran Turismo and Project Cars.
Honestly the only reason I bought driveclub was for its looks! Much more fun racing than I imagined it to be. I'm getting my money's worth out of the photomode alone though
Head over to the Driveclub forums in here mate, show us some pics of your own if you can. If not would be good to hear about your T300 experience in it regardless.
Happy it's all sorted for you. 👍
- 508
- United States
I sent Walmart their competitors price of the Thrustmaster T300RS at Amazon.com Newegg, and Fry's Electronics via Email yesterday and Walmart has just dropped the price of the Trustmaster T300RS from $450.99 to $399.99 today, and the Service plan to $51.99 and this is just the second day available at Walmart, and they have match the Price of Amazon.com and others, and beat the price of the Service Plan at $51.99 compared to all other retailers. and even though the T300RS is priced the same as the competitors right now, Walmart's local convenience and customer service can't be beat. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Thrustmaster-4169072-T300-RS-Force-Feedback-Wheel-for-PS4/41975121
- 3,024
- Top Valley, NG5
I got my T300 FGTE from shopto and there service and pricing excellent, received wheel within 24hours
- 645
- ENGLAND
- STEVE182rs
- 170
- jay-16v
Sorry @STEVE182rs , I would of been able to give you an answer to this but my replacement wasn't sent out till Friday so will have it on Monday now. Am pretty sure it was my bad luck rather than Shopto having a bad batch of wheels as others who have got from Shopto seem fine
- 3,024
- Top Valley, NG5
Yes there very good, Always thought my DFGT was pretty good till i used this last night.
Update
Just done the pedal mods on pc and set wheel @ 700 degrees and its awesome now really loving it.
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- 645
- ENGLAND
- STEVE182rs
Sorry @STEVE182rs , I would of been able to give you an answer to this but my replacement wasn't sent out till Friday so will have it on Monday now. Am pretty sure it was my bad luck rather than Shopto having a bad batch of wheels as others who have got from Shopto seem fine
Thanks guys shopto it is then, was the pedal update easy and is there much difference ?
