Thrustmaster T300RS Racing Wheel Thread

Are the stock pedals good enough or do you use something else?

  • Yes, stock pedals are good enough

    Votes: 111 33.9%

  • No, I use Thrustmaster TP3A or third-party pedals

    Votes: 216 66.1%
  • Total voters
    327
  • Poll closed .
My T300 GTE arrived yesterday from Shopto. I didn't have much time to play with it, but I haven't noticed any clicking or feel any binding of the wheel when turning it. The accelerator pedal has a slight amount of dead play before GT6 gets the message but that isn't going to be a problem. The brake pedal has more initial pedal travel before anything happens which is a problem because I need to know when I've put in a touch of brake and when I haven't. So I guess I'll go through the process of trying to adjust it as others have explained.

I haven't connected it to the gaming PC yet where I sometimes play iRacing and The Crew.

Coming from a G27 the wheel is smoother and provides more natural and informative feedback. Though recently G27 on GT6 has felt very weak and like driving on glass even with both settings at 10. FFB strength at 5 with T300 is more than enough!
 
DL84
(but make sure you can test it before buying to make out if it works properly ;) )
Click to expand...
👍

If you live in the U.S. The Thrustmaster T300RS is sold at The Game Stop, Fry's Electronics, and Walmart, store pick up is available at all retailers. Walmart has available a 3 year service plan, Fry's nor The Game Stop makes available a service plan.
:cheers:
 
jay.s
My replacement wheel arrived from Shopto yesterday and happy to report it is working perfectly.... no clicking from wheel and pedals all good :D
Click to expand...
STEVE182rs
Good news mate, was the pedals good out the box or did they need adjustment?
Click to expand...

Pedals were perfect out the box.... if anything a tiny bit better than my last set which had a tiny ( 5mm ) deadzone at the top of both pedals.

Still I am extremely gutted I didn't bother ordering the T3PA set on Friday:banghead: thought they would still be in stock on Monday but no luck all Sold Out again... Spoke to Thrustmaster about them and they said they have been overwhelmed by the demand and simply can't make them fast enough at the sec, the last shipment was well over 100 units but was gone in days! Have been told they are expecting more stock end of Dec or beginning of Jan.....
 
For those of you who have taken the pedals apart, is there a spring around the pot to remove the gear backlash? Logitech has always done this and because of that they have no issues with pedal dead zone. My T500 pedals do not have this spring and they have a large dead zone because of that. For the T500 the pot position was not adjustable but even if you could adjust the pot position, the pot still doesn't follow the pedal movement very well because of the gear backlash. Each time the pedal changes direction, it has to move a bit before it starts turning the pot. It seems quite inexcusable that Thrustmaster couldn't put a 50 cent spring on the pot to remove this issue on such an expensive wheel. Wondering if they have changed their ways on this new T300RS
 
Hi, I just bought a T300 GTE yesterday and it worked fine. But today I noticed the FFB was weaker, though I wasn't sure. But now whenever I boot my PS3 the wheel keeps calibrating itself endlessly... Am I the only one who has this issue, or is it a common problem on Thrustmaster wheels (I upgraded from a G27) ? Or am I missing something ? :confused:

I'm going to send it back tomorrow I think...

Edit : I let the wheel do its stuff and after several attempts (8-9) looks like it finally got calibrated... But I don't think this is normal - or at least it shouldn't.
 
Last edited:
David Talle
Hi, I just bought a T300 GTE yesterday and it worked fine. But today I noticed the FFB was weaker, though I wasn't sure. But now whenever I boot my PS3 the wheel keeps calibrating itself endlessly... Am I the only one who has this issue, or is it a common problem on Thrustmaster wheels (I upgraded from a G27) ? Or am I missing something ? :confused:

I'm going to send it back tomorrow I think...

Edit : I let the wheel do its stuff and after several attempts (8-9) looks like it finally got calibrated... But I don't think this is normal - or at least it shouldn't.
Click to expand...

Hi,

no its certainly not normal. It should spin 1x fully to left, 1x to the right and end in the center possition.
Maybe you can try this and see if it helps.

----------------------------------

Thank you very much for letting us know that you have finally received the wheel base back.

We strongly recommend using the Motor Calibration tool below and see if maybe it might fix the issue that you are encountering.

The following files are available for downloading until 30/12/2014 :

1 T300motorcalibration.rar 653,91 kb
2 T300motorcalibration.pdf 1,26 Mb

To download these files click on the link below and use the download key 0306 to access the page:

https://rs.guillemot.fr/pull.aspx?id=55f39d32-0356-4bef-a5c7-25e6e6965cab

Notes (as stated in the PDF guide):

- the latest firmware needs to be installed before using this tool
- the detachable wheel needs to be removed before using this tool

Make sure that the drivers are properly installed and that the wheel is correctly plugged in (the power cable should be connected directly to a wall socket).

After using the motor calibration tool, proceed with testing the wheel's functionality under Game Controllers Panel.

--------------------------------------

Jiri
 
Thanks for the reply, the problem is I don't have a PC running Windows right now. So I'm stuck as I can't use any of the TM tools... I'll try to find a PC quickly.
Plus Amazon just called me and said they can't replace my wheel because they are out of stock. BS, no way I re-buy it elsewhere, I got such a good price for it ! What a shame really ! :banghead:

Otherwise I'll try to get a replacement directly with Thrustmaster, hope it'll work.
 
David Talle
Thanks for the reply, the problem is I don't have a PC running Windows right now. So I'm stuck as I can't use any of the TM tools... I'll try to find a PC quickly.
Plus Amazon just called me and said they can't replace my wheel because they are out of stock. BS, no way I re-buy it elsewhere, I got such a good price for it ! What a shame really ! :banghead:

Otherwise I'll try to get a replacement directly with Thrustmaster, hope it'll work.
Click to expand...

I think it won't work. Thrustmaster does not provide replacements, they only repairs it (that's what I've been told by them).
 
David Talle
Hi, I just bought a T300 GTE yesterday and it worked fine. But today I noticed the FFB was weaker, though I wasn't sure. But now whenever I boot my PS3 the wheel keeps calibrating itself endlessly... Am I the only one who has this issue, or is it a common problem on Thrustmaster wheels (I upgraded from a G27) ? Or am I missing something ? :confused:

I'm going to send it back tomorrow I think...

Edit : I let the wheel do its stuff and after several attempts (8-9) looks like it finally got calibrated... But I don't think this is normal - or at least it shouldn't.
Click to expand...

Mine is on its way from Amazon.fr as well. Fingers crossed that it works correctly. It should arrive on Monday :)
 
Well after having nearly a week im very happy with it. As said before do the calibration set to perfect it.
 
Ok I borrowed a Windows PC from a friend and installed the drivers etc...
But my wheel wasn't recognized and the firmware updater crashed. Now my wheel is bricked. The LED won't even light itself. So now I'm 100% sure I'm sending it back to Amazon and have my refund. I'm not buying a new Thrustmaster wheel any soon.
Thanks for the help guys, at least you tried. :)

I hope you'll have a working wheel @Fryto , the few hours mine worked it felt amazing !
 
Can somebody document what the new drivers do/feel like.
I haven't done mine yet as all feels great, Just wondering what the difference is if any or noticeable.
 
jirin_cz
I would say just turning off the fan earlier when the motors idle. Thats all :)
Click to expand...

They have also made some changes to the wheel`s power supply management. ( power optimization )

The power optimization just means that they have made some adjustments to what is called ( Power Management Bus ). This is an open standard digital power management protocol.
The PMBus command language enables communication between the components of a power system - CPU`s, power supplies, power convertors and more.
They have more than likely set some limit`s to the voltage that certain onboard circuits receive. In some cases a voltage spike can happen that could damage components on the circuit boards.
This can only be a good thing that will help to increase the wheel`s lifespan for those that absolutely must run the wheel under maximum force feedback settings etc. etc.
 
So, as I expected everything went wrong again. The bootloader method to recover the firmware didn't work for me as I'm stuck at step 3 : the "bulk driver" never installed. I just have the Windows XP generic assistant that keeps popping and I ignore it but nothing else happens.
It's says "A problem occurred while installing the device.".
I'm either dumb or cursed I think. Or is it definitely a hardware problem ?
 
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Hi guys, I'm eventually going to buy the shifter accessory for my T300 but for now I had thought about making one! I have two DFGT wheels that are kind of junk now, but I never used the sequential shifter on either, so they're literally good as new.

My theory is that the parts in the shifter mechanism could be recycled into making a bespoke shifter, only thing I'm not sure about is how to make it work with the T300.

If anyone knows if this could or would not work please let me know. We could get a build thread going maybe :)
 
David Talle
So, as I expected everything went wrong again. The bootloader method to recover the firmware didn't work for me as I'm stuck at step 3 : the "bulk driver" never installed. I just have the Windows XP generic assistant that keeps popping and I ignore it but nothing else happens.
It's says "A problem occurred while installing the device.".
I'm either dumb or cursed I think. Or is it definitely a hardware problem ?
Click to expand...

Try using safe mode with networking.

Uninstall the software, restart windows in safe with network, re-install and follow instructions exactly.
 
Thanks for trying to help but I had enough, I'm sending it back tomorrow and I'll buy a new one as it is still 30% off on Amazon.fr. :)
 
Everything working great on my T300RS, loving it so far!!!...no clicking or anything similar. To be honest I was expecting way less from the pedal set and sincerely I don't find them to be so bad. I had a G25 before and I would say that the pedals are more on the G25 side than on th DFGT side.
I can confirm what many of you said regarding the deadzone on the brake pedal (on GT6, about 30%), I made a pair of home made mods to try to improve specifically the brake pedal issues:
1) As mentioned earlier in this thread, I added a foam to the end of the brake pedal's travel to try to improve the progression...I used a practice foam golf ball
2) I added a kind of spacer to the brake (I used a thick fabric keychain) so way I "skip" the deadzone part (I am too coward to open the pedal set and touch the potentiometers...since I live in Colombia and there is no official technical support from Thrustmaster here, it wouldn't be cool if I **** it up)

I haven't tried yet a CSP elites or similar, but I think pedals are better now than before...
Progression1.JPG
Progression2.JPG
Spacer1.JPG
Spacer2.JPG
 
Ok, so I'm buying this wheel after Christmas, but what do I have to do after I open the box?

Do I download, reset, or setup any coding ?

Please any tips an advice will help, therefore I am spending $399.99.

Thank you.
 

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