Thrustmaster T300RS Racing Wheel Thread

[Gejabo]

You could of used your g25 pedals

Sold the G25

Ok, so I'm buying this wheel after Christmas, but what do I have to do after I open the box?

Do I download, reset, or setup any coding ?

Please any tips an advice will help, therefore I am spending $399.99.

Thank you.

I didn't do anything, plug and play. 👍
Maybe if you use it for pc it is different but for ps3 no update needed.

Haven't tried it on ps4 yet, waiting for Project cars.

 

[01Michael]

Should I get a T300?

Hello! I'm a pretty quick driver on GT and looking for a replacement for my DFGT. Its 5 years young and making new mechanical noises in every driving session. A few months ago I was at the GT Academy UK finals and got to use a T500. The static flappy paddles were detrimental to pace in my opinion. The pedals were much more resistant and well... I couldn't get used to it and did pretty badly in the virtual driving assessment. I would chose not to have a clutch pedal also. Cost is not a big issue.

 

[skazz]

Should I get a T300?

Hello! I'm a pretty quick driver on GT and looking for a replacement for my DFGT.

The T300 feels very much like an improved Logitech wheel, very low spinning resistance, rim size and paddles are very similar, feel is very immediate, it's more powerful than a Logitech wheel but not by a huge amount. The pedals are in between DFGT and G27 in quality: brake is light (but DFGT is lighter) accelerator is actually very reasonable for being plastic (with metal face).

The T500 takes a lot more adjustment, it's more powerful but with more resistance so you definitely have to work harder, sometimes "against" the wheel. Once you adjust the T500 is great fun, and I personally really don't mind the fixed paddles in exchange for a larger rim. The pedals are excellent once you adjust to the heavier brake (even compared to a G27 it's heavier), but if you think the T500 brake is heavy you should try a load cell

So in summary, if you are a DFGT fan and like a light agile wheel with relatively light and easy to use pedals, it's probably your best bet. And it's fully GT7 ready for the PS4 of course.

 

[01Michael]

The T300 feels very much like an improved Logitech wheel, very low spinning resistance, rim size and paddles are very similar, feel is very immediate, it's more powerful than a Logitech wheel but not by a huge amount. The pedals are in between DFGT and G27 in quality: brake is light (but DFGT is lighter) accelerator is actually very reasonable for being plastic (with metal face).

The T500 takes a lot more adjustment, it's more powerful but with more resistance so you definitely have to work harder, sometimes "against" the wheel. Once you adjust the T500 is great fun, and I personally really don't mind the fixed paddles in exchange for a larger rim. The pedals are excellent once you adjust to the heavier brake (even compared to a G27 it's heavier), but if you think the T500 brake is heavy you should try a load cell

So in summary, if you are a DFGT fan and like a light agile wheel with relatively light and easy to use pedals, it's probably your best bet. And it's fully GT7 ready for the PS4 of course.

That's a dream response, thank you for your time!

 

[caligrown]

I just received my T300 today, and before I even plugged it in I noticed a slight notchy/catching feeling when turning the wheel slowly left around the 11:00 position on the wheel. It's still there when racing, but only really noticable when stopped and turning the wheel slow. While driving it's hardly noticeable at all.

Has anyone else experienced this? I'm contemplating getting a replacement as it bugs me a bit, and for all the $ I want it perfect!

Other than that, it's a great wheel, big improvement over g27

 

[skazz]

I just received my T300 today, and before I even plugged it in I noticed a slight notchy/catching feeling when turning the wheel slowly left around the 11:00 position on the wheel. It's still there when racing, but only really noticable when stopped and turning the wheel slow. While driving it's hardly noticeable at all.

Has anyone else experienced this? I'm contemplating getting a replacement as it bugs me a bit, and for all the $ I want it perfect!

Other than that, it's a great wheel, big improvement over g27

Could just be the belt teeth needing to work in a bit. Does it do it every time you rotate the wheel from center towards the left?

 

[caligrown]

Could just be the belt teeth needing to work in a bit. Does it do it every time you rotate the wheel from center towards the left?

Yeah, every time I rotate slowly left from center theres about an inch at that 11:00 position where tension slacks a bit, then gets stiffer than normal, then back to normal as I keep rotating. It happens whether its plugged in or not. If I rotate quickly you can't tell, but the slower the more pronounced and if really slow you can kind of bump up against whatever is causing it.

It kind of feels like maybe one of the belts is rubbing against something, IDK. If I rotate just the connector piece with the wheel removed it's really obvious and gets caught up right there.

Honestly it's pretty slight, but enough for me to notice..

 

[caligrown]

I also get that little clicking sound, as well as some little grinding sound when turned almost all the way right, but those don't seem like a big deal

 

[skazz]

Yeah, every time I rotate slowly left from center theres about an inch at that 11:00 position where tension slacks a bit, then gets stiffer than normal, then back to normal as I keep rotating. It happens whether its plugged in or not. If I rotate quickly you can't tell, but the slower the more pronounced and if really slow you can kind of bump up against whatever is causing it.

It kind of feels like maybe one of the belts is rubbing against something, IDK. If I rotate just the connector piece with the wheel removed it's really obvious and gets caught up right there.

Honestly it's pretty slight, but enough for me to notice..

Sounds like probably just the point at which the belt was stationary around the cog while in the box, causing the teeth to be slightly uneven there. If it's anything like the T500 it should work itself out soon enough.

 

[Fryto]

Mine is on its way from Amazon.fr as well. Fingers crossed that it works correctly. It should arrive on Monday

Just checked the status of my delivery and it states that DHL cannot find my address and they sent it back to Amazon.fr ...
Not sure how on earth that's possible, they haven't even tried to deliver it... Amateurs...

edit: Apparently they got their act together as this morning out of nowhere the postman rings the doorbell with a big box in his hands

I briefly tested the wheel and everything seems fine. The pedals have a small deadzone, but not more than my real life car. Together with the pedals, the biggest adjustment for me will be the variable wheel weight. With my dfgt it was more evenly spread. With the T300 it goes from really light to really heavy the more you turn the wheel ( at least in Driveclub and the Crew). Not sure what setting I need to tweak to even it out a little bit.

 

[VincentVegaSWE]

I've just sent my T300 back to the retailer, keeping my fingers crossed to get it repaired.

*After a few hours rest the fan made a terrible noice under the first minute it went on.
*The brake pedal started to activate the brakes by its own and a week later it almost didn't work at all.

 

[Cocomoto]

So, i'm thinking in buy a T300RS since my DFGT doesn't work on the PS4 and man... this wheel is too hard too find here in Brazil. I found a guy who is selling it for R$ 2.300,00, something around US$ 900,00. But I don't know if the guy is honest.

So anyone can tell me if this wheel has a really good quality and i've seen some problems here with the wheel, it's a really huge amount of money, since Thurstmaster don't sell this wheel here in Brazil officially, I'm afraid if it's doesn't wok properlly I couldn't return it...

Really any chance of the Logitech wheels gets supported on PS4? The G27 here in Brazil is in such a good price!!

 

[Fryto]

I've just sent my T300 back to the retailer, keeping my fingers crossed to get it repaired.

*After a few hours rest the fan made a terrible noice under the first minute it went on.
*The brake pedal started to activate the brakes by its own and a week later it almost didn't work at all.

The brake pedal issue should be a simple discalibration. I also had it the first time I tried the wheel. As long as I calibrate it like mentioned in the user manual it works fine

 

[RavingBonkers]

Quick question - can a G27 gear shifter be used with a T300rs wheel on Playstation ? (not computer)

I've got a rig and aquired this shifter so I have a place for it to fit, and was intrigued to see if it would work, I've searched the web but it seems a lot of the adapters on the market are for PC only

 

[VincentVegaSWE]

The brake pedal issue should be a simple discalibration. I also had it the first time I tried the wheel. As long as I calibrate it like mentioned in the user manual it works fine

Yeah, it could be. But I'm not sure about that, mainly because the pedal almost did not work at all in the end.

Anyhow, the main reason for returning the T300 was the noisy fan. If the wheel was alright I could just buy a set of T3PA pedals.

 

[skazz]

@Soulfresh_ACV should you want to update the first post, here are relative rim weights (as measured by a reasonably accurate scale, give or take a couple of grams):

- GT rim (30cm diameter stock T500 rim without paddles): 1018g
- GTE rim (28cm diameter Ferrari 458GTE rim with paddles): 1205g
- PS rim (28cm diameter stock T300RS rim with paddles): 1165g

I know the T300GTE comes with a v2 GTE rim, but I assume it weighs the same. The GTE rim clearly has more plastic behind the metal spokes because more buttons are mounted to the plastic, which probably accounts for the 40g weight difference.

Testing using iRacing's WheelCheck with the T500 the GTE rim actually spins faster than the GT rim, presumably because it offers less inertia due to a center of mass closer to the axis of rotation? However, due to the larger GT rim size, you feel tiny forces slightly clearer in my experience.

 

[JBF77]

I've had mine for a couple of months and it still works fine. No problems. It is a great wheel and I am very happy that I bought it. I'm upgrading to the T3PA pedals once in stock.

 

[KevRusski]

Quick question guys, after several hours of using the wheel when I turn left it makes a creaking noise at about 10 o`clock. always the same position, and only when using the wheel in anger, It doesnt make the noise when initially calibrating or if the wheel is off and you turn it, but it does it every time you turn left, like a squeek when playing. Its annoying as it was silent before. Its not a grinding noise or mashing of gears and its mild. Its more like a plastic creaking noise. Any ideas?

 

[skazz]

Quick question guys, after several hours of using the wheel when I turn left it makes a creaking noise at about 10 o`clock. always the same position, and only when using the wheel in anger, It doesnt make the noise when initially calibrating or if the wheel is off and you turn it, but it does it every time you turn left, like a squeek when playing. Its annoying as it was silent before. Its not a grinding noise or mashing of gears and its mild. Its more like a plastic creaking noise. Any ideas?

I can't think of anything in the wheel base which could be doing that... It's quite likely to be the rim.

Depending on whether you have the PS or GTE rims, there are various screws on the back to check. The GTE rim actually squeaks if you over tighten some of the screws holding the plastic back section on, so be careful when checking them.

Also note that both rims have 6 bolts on the front but only three actually hold the plastic to the metal rim. Iirc the ones to actually check are in a T shape, and you must leave the other three alone. But check some YouTube videos about dismantling the rim for safety.

 

[Cocomoto]

Man, i'm really afraid of this wheel right now. I just bought it and wait to it to arrive but... so many videos of broken T300RS, and i'm not even looking for videos of broken wheels, just reviews.

Skazz, could you explain it to me about the corret way to use those bolts on the wheel?

 

[Rich2086]

The horror stories on here are putting me off buying a T300RS :-(

 

[Cocomoto]

Rich, i saw a video of a guy who has this cliking problem and he said that the problem was caused because eh didn't put the cables and all others stuff of he wheel right. After cheking this the cliking noisy stopped...

 

[Soulfresh_ACV]

@Soulfresh_ACV should you want to update the first post, here are relative rim weights (as measured by a reasonably accurate scale, give or take a couple of grams):

- GT rim (30cm diameter stock T500 rim without paddles): 1018g
- GTE rim (28cm diameter Ferrari 458GTE rim with paddles): 1205g
- PS rim (28cm diameter stock T300RS rim with paddles): 1165g

I know the T300GTE comes with a v2 GTE rim, but I assume it weighs the same. The GTE rim clearly has more plastic behind the metal spokes because more buttons are mounted to the plastic, which probably accounts for the 40g weight difference.

Testing using iRacing's WheelCheck with the T500 the GTE rim actually spins faster than the GT rim, presumably because it offers less inertia due to a center of mass closer to the axis of rotation? However, due to the larger GT rim size, you feel tiny forces slightly clearer in my experience.

A bit early for measurements when the holidays aren't over yet lol. Thanks, I'd included in the OP and hope it'll be useful for others.

Merry Christmas and a happy new year to all followers of this thread.

 

[KevRusski]

I can't think of anything in the wheel base which could be doing that... It's quite likely to be the rim.

Depending on whether you have the PS or GTE rims, there are various screws on the back to check. The GTE rim actually squeaks if you over tighten some of the screws holding the plastic back section on, so be careful when checking them.

Also note that both rims have 6 bolts on the front but only three actually hold the plastic to the metal rim. Iirc the ones to actually check are in a T shape, and you must leave the other three alone. But check some YouTube videos about dismantling the rim for safety.

Hi, thanks.

I have the ps wheel and there only seems to be 4 screws at the back. I cant see why it would be an over tight screw to be honest but are you suggesting loosening them a bit?

 

[skazz]

Hi, thanks.

I have the ps wheel and there only seems to be 4 screws at the back. I cant see why it would be an over tight screw to be honest but are you suggesting loosening them a bit?

I'm just saying to have a look. My PS rim is rock solid with no creaking, but my GTE rim creaked a bit when new. If you removed the rim from the wheelbase you could get it to creak by gently pressing the plastic in various angles. I got rid of the creaking by ensuring the 3 screws holding the plastic section onto the metal were tight and by adjusting the screws holding the plastic together until the creaking stopped, which didn't actually require tightening all of them, instead a bit of nuance was needed.

Your situation may be different, but it's not exactly difficult to have a check.

 

[Gejabo]

The horror stories on here are putting me off buying a T300RS :-(

To set your mind ar eas, I've been using mine nearly everyday for two months without any problems.

 

[Blkout]

I ordered a T300RS last night to use since my CSW v2 broke and I'm going to have to send it in for repair. I guess I'll put one of these through some testing this week in GT6 and Driveclub.

I'm just saying to have a look. My PS rim is rock solid with no creaking, but my GTE rim creaked a bit when new. If you removed the rim from the wheelbase you could get it to creak by gently pressing the plastic in various angles. I got rid of the creaking by ensuring the 3 screws holding the plastic section onto the metal were tight and by adjusting the screws holding the plastic together until the creaking stopped, which didn't actually require tightening all of them, instead a bit of nuance was needed.
Your situation may be different, but it's not exactly difficult to have a check.

My GTE rim would squeak just a bit too on the plastic bits even after tightening all screws. It doesn't do it often, but occasionally I can hear it.

To set your mind at ease, I've been using mine nearly everyday for two months without any problems.

My TX has worked flawlessly for almost 9 months of heavy use and it's basically the same wheel.

 

[Jump_Ace]

I finally got around to doing those Sierra Time Rallys and did some other random laps there too. It's the first time I spent more than an hour with the wheel in one sitting, and just for 'fun' I cranked up the heat in my house and closed the door in my office/game room to see how the wheel would perform for me during the hot summer months. I'm still super impressed with this wheel (settings in GT6 are 7/7). After owning probably the best wheel on the market (besides direct drive wheels) an @eKretz modded CSR Elite with 2 awesome motor mods, this T300RS holds it's own just fine. With the 7/7 GT6 settings, it's at the perfect amount of strength, while still giving me the option to turn in fast and turn in solid laps.

I'm going to go through some of my fastest TT laps that I got with the modded CSR-E last year and see how I stack up once I work the rust out. Then my last test will be to do some drift events for a few hours, that is what killed my CSR-E wheel the first time (went out on me 3 times total before the motor mod).


Jerome

 

[Fryto]

Man, i'm really afraid of this wheel right now. I just bought it and wait to it to arrive but... so many videos of broken T300RS, and i'm not even looking for videos of broken wheels, just reviews.

Skazz, could you explain it to me about the corret way to use those bolts on the wheel?

There clearly are lots of people with their T300 having issues, but always keep in mind that folks are more likely to post when their wheel is not working than people whose wheel is working fine

So far so good for me. My wheel arrived last week and both wheel and pedals are working fine.

Also, please read the user manual before using it. I've seen posts on other forums where people complained that their wheel was broken while they had just not used it properly (connecting the pedals to the base while it was already connected to the ps4, trying to calibrate the pedals while the wheel was auto-calibrating, etc). I agree that normally a product should not be as sensitive as that, but on the other hand it's clearly laid out in the manual. Too bad people nowadays tend to skip reading the manual

 

[Cocomoto]

Agreed, Fryto... I always take a look at the manual in almost everything i buy. While the wheel don't arrive i'm looking on the net to tips of how to mount it, place the wheel in the right mode etc...

But i found solution to almost everysingle problem on the wheel, most of then are simple to fix!!