Thrustmaster T300RS Racing Wheel Thread

Are the stock pedals good enough or do you use something else?

  • Yes, stock pedals are good enough

    Votes: 111 33.9%
  • No, I use Thrustmaster TP3A or third-party pedals

    Votes: 216 66.1%

  • Total voters
    327
  • Poll closed .
So I pulled the trigger and bought one as well as a wheel stand pro version 2, and I'm a complete noob at this so any help would be appreciated. The only game I've tested so far is driveclub and it's taken some getting used to as the best I've done is 7th lol, I tried with the controller and after one try I got second. The wheel seems to be fine, no strange noises or clicking, but I think the pedals may be off. Without measuring I'd say I have to push down about 30% before getting a little acceleration. Does that mean that pedal to the metal still isn't full speed? The wheel itself seems perfect so I would very much hesitate to return it just for the pedals, any tips? Should I just give thrust master a call or is nothing wrong to begin with?
 
Arcade titles for consoles is generally optimised for gamepad. To be competitive with wheel try steering lock like a gamepad say 70-90 degrees.
 
So I pulled the trigger and bought one as well as a wheel stand pro version 2, and I'm a complete noob at this so any help would be appreciated. The only game I've tested so far is driveclub and it's taken some getting used to as the best I've done is 7th lol, I tried with the controller and after one try I got second. The wheel seems to be fine, no strange noises or clicking, but I think the pedals may be off. Without measuring I'd say I have to push down about 30% before getting a little acceleration. Does that mean that pedal to the metal still isn't full speed? The wheel itself seems perfect so I would very much hesitate to return it just for the pedals, any tips? Should I just give thrust master a call or is nothing wrong to begin with?

I've been hearing people say the same thing around here about the pedals having a bit of a deadzone. There may even be a thread about it not too far down. I'm not sure as I've never used the pedals. I use my T300 with G27 pedals and have some T3PA's on the way.
 
My T300 has good pedals, but even then there are a few mm of deadzone at the start of rotation on both the accelerator and brake.

You adjust to it fine (for longer than expected if your ordered T3PA take months to become available!), and the benefit is that you won't get any pot spiking happening because of the inherent top deadzone, so I think it's a bearable compromise. Some people had a problem where the pedals didn't register for half of their travel, which is obviously bad. But that's only a couple of cases so far.


Note that Thrustmaster pedals can never have a deadzone at the other end, because they calibrate every time you turn them on and only use the range you push. So if you push the brake no more than 50% after turning it on, that 50% value would be 100% brake in game. If you put a stopper at the end of your pedal travel and shorten the travel that would just cause the pedal to calibrate full 0-100% range with shorter travel, easy as that.
 
So I pulled the trigger and bought one as well as a wheel stand pro version 2, and I'm a complete noob at this so any help would be appreciated. The only game I've tested so far is driveclub and it's taken some getting used to as the best I've done is 7th lol, I tried with the controller and after one try I got second. The wheel seems to be fine, no strange noises or clicking, but I think the pedals may be off. Without measuring I'd say I have to push down about 30% before getting a little acceleration. Does that mean that pedal to the metal still isn't full speed? The wheel itself seems perfect so I would very much hesitate to return it just for the pedals, any tips? Should I just give thrust master a call or is nothing wrong to begin with?
read the manual and hook it up to the PC and go to TM support page and you can see how your pedals are working
 
It also seems to me that in both Driveclub and The Crew, there seems to be an additional default deadzone. In these games I have about 10-20% deadzone, while in GT6 it's almost none (stock T300 pedals).
 
The T300 is a fantastic wheel, as long as it is working properly. As I wrote in previous posts, mine is returned for repair. Meanwhile, I have connected my old Driving Force Pro to the PS3 and tried playing GT6. Well, let me put it this way: Compared to the T300, the DFP feels like it's broken, even if it is not.
 
Has anyone bought anything, including a T300 RS (obviously), on DiscoAzul?
The wheel is quite cheap there (£233.09 + £15 shipping). I'm tempted to buy there as the wheel is in stock but at the same time, I'd rather have to deal with Amazon's customer services...

TL;DR: I'm not advertising for DiscoAzul, I'm asking if they're good.
 
Well I got my new T300 and it's finally working (for now). But the brake pedal is stuck at 50%, although I used it only once as I use my G27 pedals (might be a calibration issue). I guess it is fairly easy to fix but it's incredible how unreliable is this wheel when out of the box. I hope the trouble-free ones will last for long.

But I can tell the wheel is really a good one, I realized it when I had to go back to my G27 for the 2 past weeks !
I hope you guys won't have any trouble with yours ! 👍
 
Preferences for the force feedback max torque and sensitivity, I'm new to the wheel world...

Sounds like you're talking about GT6 specifically then. I know this is a GT message board but so many racing games are discussed here and the T300RS will work on PS3, PS4 and PC, I just needed to know which games you were talking about.

I haven't used a T300RS yet so hopefully someone will come along soon and give you some settings to get you started. I've only used a T500RS on GT6 and I run max torque 5 and sensitivity 4, but I would imagine those settings might be slightly higher for the T300RS due to it having a little less strength than the T500RS.
 
Sounds like you're talking about GT6 specifically then. I know this is a GT message board but so many racing games are discussed here and the T300RS will work on PS3, PS4 and PC, I just needed to know which games you were talking about.

I haven't used a T300RS yet so hopefully someone will come along soon and give you some settings to get you started. I've only used a T500RS on GT6 and I run max torque 5 and sensitivity 4, but I would imagine those settings might be slightly higher for the T300RS due to it having a little less strength than the T500RS.
Sorry for the confusion, thanks for the info!
 
Has anyone bought anything, including a T300 RS (obviously), on DiscoAzul?
The wheel is quite cheap there (£233.09 + £15 shipping). I'm tempted to buy there as the wheel is in stock but at the same time, I'd rather have to deal with Amazon's customer services...

TL;DR: I'm not advertising for DiscoAzul, I'm asking if they're good.


Ive has some serious issues with them, I bought one of the uk site and after payment found out the goods are in spain and are reconditioned units so i cancelled but 4 weeks down the road ive still not had a refund, The matter is now with my credit card supplier.

Try Shopto in the UK they deliver next day thats where i got mine from.
 
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For the same price, and for the PC exclusively, the T500 or the T300?

Bear in mind the last wheel I had was a DFP I used with GT4. I am not sure how strong the FFB is with these new wheels but my DFP was attached to my desk.

Currently I've found both wheels at the same price, but I'm not sure which camp to choose. The wheel is to serve for pCars and AC on PC.
 
Has anyone bought anything, including a T300 RS (obviously), on DiscoAzul?
The wheel is quite cheap there (£233.09 + £15 shipping). I'm tempted to buy there as the wheel is in stock but at the same time, I'd rather have to deal with Amazon's customer services...

TL;DR: I'm not advertising for DiscoAzul, I'm asking if they're good.

I got mine from thrustmaster website and it came within a couple of days in the uk m8.
 
For the same price, and for the PC exclusively, the T500 or the T300?

Bear in mind the last wheel I had was a DFP I used with GT4. I am not sure how strong the FFB is with these new wheels but my DFP was attached to my desk.

Currently I've found both wheels at the same price, but I'm not sure which camp to choose. The wheel is to serve for pCars and AC on PC.
If you want the best value for money, T500 all the way: The pedals and total package are just a more complete overall set. If you want very impressive power, T500 wins again.
If you are willing to consider paying more for better pedals at some point, T300 is the more agile and more modern FFB system, and probably gives more nuance to the FFB (while being slightly weaker in terms of forces but freer spinning and easier to control slides).

The T500 and T300 have the same clamp mechanism, but the T500 base is bigger and probably slightly harder to fit on a desk (to give you an idea, the T300 fits in almost identical desk space than my old G25, but I estimate that I'd need another 5cm depth or so for the T500). The T500 also has fixed paddles which some people don't like compared to paddles which move with the rim as found on the T300. I personally don't mind, both types of paddles are good in their own way.

Either wheel is a massive jump up from a DFP, without doubt. You will probably need time to get used to the way more powerful forces. Even the T300 pedals are a clear improvement from DFP ones, but completely outclassed by the T500 pedals.
 
Which wheel would you say gives the most realistic feel?

It's hard for me to decide between them based on FFB because I've been without a wheel for so long.

Right now I am leaning towards the T500 because it comes with high quality pedals in the first place.

Then again, a clutch pedal isn't a must since neither wheel comes with a shifter. Reliability is something I hold high, though.
 
For me realism is three things: (1) a motor which turns the rim as fast as is needed to ensure the wheel can handle the commands from a game and not lag behind (2) low internal resistance in the mechanism so that it doesn't get in the way (3) no unrealistic feeling when turning the wheel (e.g. Cog rattle, notchiness, etc...)

I've never used a wheel which is completely perfect in all three. I suspect $2000+ direct drive systems get pretty close however. All cheaper wheels are compromises although I gather that the ~€900 Fanatec CSWv2 comes pretty close.

T500 is very good at (1) but loses out to T300 for (2) and (3). So if you want most realism then the T300 is better in my opinion. But it's still in the early production phase and definitely a higher chance of problems requiring RMA than the mature and solid T500.
 
Alright, cheers! I'll hang on in there and delay a wheel purchase for at least until Pcars has been released.
 
@chrishagan and @GT6_Stig thanks for your useful answers. ShopTo seems to only list the GTE version, for c. £300, so I'm going to stick with Amazon (c. £255).

Hopefully they are currently out of stock because they got rid of the bad batch? :)

I've only ever used a DFGT and I have no other reference so I'm quite excited to check out what the fuss is all about with these better wheels...

Edit: it's too expensive on Thrustmaster's website.
 
With my t300 i feel i can catch a slide where with my DFGT i don't feel this is the same and id just spinout more often.

i miss my DFGT. I miss the D pad and RA adjust.
 
With my t300 i feel i can catch a slide where with my DFGT i don't feel this is the same and id just spinout more often.

i miss my DFGT. I miss the D pad and RA adjust.


You can program the RA into your T300 but unfortunately PD stopped us using it a few updates back.
 
GT6_Stig: 10350522
You can program the RA into your T300 but unfortunately PD stopped us using it a few updates back.

That sucks. So useful when you start an event and forgot to turn TC off on a new car etc.
 
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