Thrustmaster T300RS Racing Wheel Thread
- Thread starter Soulfresh_ACV
- 3,494 comments
- 572,446 views
- 3,942
- Netherlands
- skazz-race
- skazzracer
Yes, it seems like some of the first batch across EU had that problem too. If you read back a few pages you can see that a direct Thrustmaster repair of one of those wheels highlighted a component error in the motor assembly which had to be replaced. It wouldn't surprise me if it was a specific batch, and your supplier appears to have multiple wheels from that batch....
Hi,
I finally got some time to take few photos of my setup. I have to confirm that Next Level Wheel Stand is really rock solid! It won't move at all even with really heavy breaking. Even the shifter holder is very sturdy.
Now I have to wait for CPX adapter and then I will finally exchange the stock T300 pedals for CSR Elites. And after that I will also figure out the wires
I finally got some time to take few photos of my setup. I have to confirm that Next Level Wheel Stand is really rock solid! It won't move at all even with really heavy breaking. Even the shifter holder is very sturdy.
Now I have to wait for CPX adapter and then I will finally exchange the stock T300 pedals for CSR Elites. And after that I will also figure out the wires
Yes, mine had the same issue. The "clunks" going from the wheel base. TM support exchanged the motor gear in the base. Those clunks are gone now, but still there are some minor "clicks" which they did not repair. But I can't feel it at all, and as I mostly playing Driveclub with on-ear headphones, I can even hear it
- 1,762
- NG9
- Shin_Roh
That would be great mate, depending on what options I get from my retailer/thrustmaster I would be happy to open the pedal box and try to fix the Issue. Not before speaking to the store and thrustmaster of course because that'll certainly void the warranty.
I do plan to upgrade the pedal set anyway so don't mind having a stab and failing because I can 'throw them in the bin' eventually. Best outcome would be a voucher towards my wheel that I can use on the t3pa's(?) or equivalent. Can I use any pedal set with the T300 or does it have to be specific to work on ps3/4?
Tree's!
Clubsports on the ps4?! I'm sold! Any functionality issues considering the adapter?
You can use T3PA - of course, Tř00RS pedals, or you can use Fanatec Clubsports V2 or CSR Elites - with CPX adapter, or I think you can use pedals from Logitech G27 with other special adapter
Only issue with the CPX is you will have to wait ages to get it
- 84
- TurboSenna
- TurboSenna
Ok, so I decided to get the T300RS on Friday as it went down to £230 on Friday at Amazon and I wanted a wheel to use with my PS4.
I also found my pedals had big deadzones - almost 50% on the brake pedal.
I just took them apart, adjusted the potentiometers so they were further round when initially engaged by the pedals and that has sorted it out. Only a tiny deadzone at the top of the break pedal now.
That will keep me going until I get my CPX adapter to use my CSR Elite pedals with the wheel.
A few pointers if you're going to do the same:
0 - do so at your own risk - you may void your warranty/make things worse. Although, this is pretty easy and I didnt spot any warranty void stickers as part of this process.
1 - watch out for the screw under the cable entry point when taking them apart, it's easy to miss
2 - when you adjust the pots, place the pedal base on the ground and test that the full throw of the pedal is still able to adjust the pot position
3 - you'll need to take the metal pedal faces off before dismantling the base
4 - when putting it back together, you'll need to make sure you get the facia past the second spring on the brake pedal so it doesn't snag
5 - as per Captain Roh's suggestion, it is a good idea to use the pc driver utility to test your adjustments as you go
Apart from that all seems good now!
Coming from a fanatec csr with elite pedals, I would say:
1 - the t300 is a great feeling wheel, much smoother, quieter and more rugged built
2 - there is plenty of power in the feedback
3 - the pedals are nowhere near as good as the csr elites but better than those on my old Logitech dfgt
4 - driveclub force feedback is ok but not brilliant - I'm looking forward to project cars to really see what the wheel is capable of
5 - the power cable is a decent length but the usb cable is too short. It just gets past the end of my wheelstand when routed correctly so unless your console is sitting on the floor right at the end of your stand you're going to need a USB extension lead
6 - on that topic, I bought an extension lead and slim usb 3 hub from Amazon so I can use my th8rs with the wheel. Both leads are similar lengths so it works out ok
just a shame it isn't xbone compatible too but I think I'll just have to restrict my consoles this generation - probably no bad thing really... ;-)
Last edited:
- 1,762
- NG9
- Shin_Roh
Excellent post mate, really thank you very much! I was hoping so much that this was just a slight oversight in the assembly process and you've confirmed it's exactly that. I think this fix should be added to the opening post, give people the option and knowledge for an easy self repair or the choice to go through a refund process. I know which one I choose!
Again thank you so much for taking the time to write this you've helped me a lot. I will keep my ear to the ground for CPX news and possibly forgoe the T3PA's and wait for clubsports
I'll message again to let you know how I get on 👍
- 1,762
- NG9
- Shin_Roh
Hey guys. It's late here, very late! But I just wanted to pop in and let you know how I got on.
I planned to give the pedals a once over and see about where to start, turns out it was obvious and looked quite basic. Infact it was basic, here's a list of tools I used;
Screwdriver.
That's it! Seriously it's so simple I would not hesitate to recommend this fix over trying to get a refund to anyone. Be warned however, opening the pedals could void your warranty and you could potentially do more damage. Be careful. And be patient!!
The job itself is very simple but its kind of fiddley and
there's a little trial and error involved. I didn't take pictures as I didn't intend to finish the job, so if you're struggling post up your own and I will annotate.
Instructions are solid, the only points I would add is to have the thrustmaster firmware updater installed on your laptop/pc and have your wheel plugged in and on the properties page where you calibrate your wheel. Use it to find the sweet spot for your potentiometers while you test and before you rebuild the pedals.
After I found the 'bite point' for the potentiometer setting in the thrustmaster software I booted up GT6 and tested before I tightened up the screwdriver and eventually settled down for the nIght.
I will sleep easy knowing I have a fully functioning T300 instead of an X amount of days/weeks/months refund process with no wheel.
Whoop!!
I planned to give the pedals a once over and see about where to start, turns out it was obvious and looked quite basic. Infact it was basic, here's a list of tools I used;
Screwdriver.
That's it! Seriously it's so simple I would not hesitate to recommend this fix over trying to get a refund to anyone. Be warned however, opening the pedals could void your warranty and you could potentially do more damage. Be careful. And be patient!!
The job itself is very simple but its kind of fiddley and
there's a little trial and error involved. I didn't take pictures as I didn't intend to finish the job, so if you're struggling post up your own and I will annotate.
Instructions are solid, the only points I would add is to have the thrustmaster firmware updater installed on your laptop/pc and have your wheel plugged in and on the properties page where you calibrate your wheel. Use it to find the sweet spot for your potentiometers while you test and before you rebuild the pedals.
After I found the 'bite point' for the potentiometer setting in the thrustmaster software I booted up GT6 and tested before I tightened up the screwdriver and eventually settled down for the nIght.
I will sleep easy knowing I have a fully functioning T300 instead of an X amount of days/weeks/months refund process with no wheel.
Whoop!!
- 1,762
- NG9
- Shin_Roh
Hey guys. It's late here, very late! But I just wanted to pop in and let you know how I got on.
I planned to give the pedals a once over and see about where to start, turns out it was obvious and looked quite basic. Infact it was basic, here's a list of tools I used;
Screwdriver.
That's it! Seriously it's so simple I would not hesitate to recommend this fix over trying to get a refund to anyone. Be warned however, opening the pedals could void your warranty and you could potentially do more damage. Be careful. And be patient!!
The job itself is very simple but its kind of fiddley and
there's a little trial and error involved. I didn't take pictures as I didn't intend to finish the job, so if you're struggling post up your own and I will annotate.
Instructions are solid, the only points I would add is to have the thrustmaster firmware updater installed on your laptop/pc and have your wheel plugged in and on the properties page where you calibrate your wheel. Use it to find the sweet spot for your potentiometers while you test and before you rebuild the pedals.
After I found the 'bite point' for the potentiometer setting in the thrustmaster software I booted up GT6 and tested before I tightened up the screwdriver and eventually settled down for the nIght.
I will sleep easy knowing I have a fully functioning T300 instead of an X amount of days/weeks/months refund process with no wheel.
Whoop!!
I planned to give the pedals a once over and see about where to start, turns out it was obvious and looked quite basic. Infact it was basic, here's a list of tools I used;
Screwdriver.
That's it! Seriously it's so simple I would not hesitate to recommend this fix over trying to get a refund to anyone. Be warned however, opening the pedals could void your warranty and you could potentially do more damage. Be careful. And be patient!!
The job itself is very simple but its kind of fiddley and
there's a little trial and error involved. I didn't take pictures as I didn't intend to finish the job, so if you're struggling post up your own and I will annotate.
Instructions are solid, the only points I would add is to have the thrustmaster firmware updater installed on your laptop/pc and have your wheel plugged in and on the properties page where you calibrate your wheel. Use it to find the sweet spot for your potentiometers while you test and before you rebuild the pedals.
After I found the 'bite point' for the potentiometer setting in the thrustmaster software I booted up GT6 and tested before I tightened up the screwdriver and eventually settled down for the nIght.
I will sleep easy knowing I have a fully functioning T300 instead of an X amount of days/weeks/months refund process with no wheel.
Whoop!!
- 84
- TurboSenna
- TurboSenna
Be warned however, opening the pedals could void your warranty and you could potentially do more damage. Be careful. And be patient!!
Instructions are solid, the only points I would add is to have the thrustmaster firmware updater installed on your laptop/pc and have your wheel plugged in and on the properties page where you calibrate your wheel. Use it to find the sweet spot for your potentiometers while you test and before you rebuild the pedals.
Whoop!!
Nice one, glad it worked for you too
Good extra points as well, I'll add them into my list in case someone misses them.
Cheers
- 170
- jay-16v
Unfortunately my T300 has developed an annoying clicking sound while turning right /clockwise.... is fine when going left and am pretty sure it didn't do it when I got it new 2 weeks ago! The Sound is coming from the base unit around the centre position. It can't be felt but is heard and not something that I am happy with so will contact Shopto on Monday and see about a replacement as not happy about sending it for repair only 2 weeks in. The wheel has probably had no more than 3-4 hours total use
Anyone else having anything similar?
Anyone else having anything similar?
- 35
- Germany
My wheel cam back just today from Guillemont HQ (RMA - clunk).
First of all, the packaging - what were they thinking? They completely stuffed the box with schredded paper snippets. That might be a good padding, but lots of tiny snippets made it also into the bag with the base in it. You can imagine how the base looked...
Well, the clunk is gone. I removed the cover, because it seems to prevent the fan from starting at all.
So with regards to the video above by jay.s, I think I know what the source for the noise is, because I noticed it too, but not that intense. It is the belt inside the base. When the wheel turns to the right, the belt moves back on the upper white toothed wheel and is grinding against its edge. I tried to move the belt more to the front, but it only takes one full rotation the right and the belt is back against the edge, producing some clicking/grinding noise.
I don't know if that happened before I returned the wheel, but I think I would have noticed that sound. Luckily, it isn't as loud as for jay.s, but I bet that is the source on his base too.
Edit,
the reason for the noise to come up only when rotating to the right, is that the belt moves back into the center of that toothed wheel, as soon as the wheel rotates to the left. I would open the base and check the belt. Maybe there is some sort of imperfection on the edge of the belt that is grinding.
First of all, the packaging - what were they thinking? They completely stuffed the box with schredded paper snippets. That might be a good padding, but lots of tiny snippets made it also into the bag with the base in it. You can imagine how the base looked...
Well, the clunk is gone. I removed the cover, because it seems to prevent the fan from starting at all.
So with regards to the video above by jay.s, I think I know what the source for the noise is, because I noticed it too, but not that intense. It is the belt inside the base. When the wheel turns to the right, the belt moves back on the upper white toothed wheel and is grinding against its edge. I tried to move the belt more to the front, but it only takes one full rotation the right and the belt is back against the edge, producing some clicking/grinding noise.
I don't know if that happened before I returned the wheel, but I think I would have noticed that sound. Luckily, it isn't as loud as for jay.s, but I bet that is the source on his base too.
Edit,
the reason for the noise to come up only when rotating to the right, is that the belt moves back into the center of that toothed wheel, as soon as the wheel rotates to the left. I would open the base and check the belt. Maybe there is some sort of imperfection on the edge of the belt that is grinding.
- 35
- Germany
Well, the wheel itself (idea, engineering, FFB etc.) is superb imho. Just the execution seem to be sloppy in some aspects.
- 645
- ENGLAND
- STEVE182rs
All this really is shocking, this is why one company shouldn't have the monopoly of PS4 wheels.
There clearly not up to the job, most places out of stock and if you are lucky to get one, most have problems.
Have the t500s had any problems?
There clearly not up to the job, most places out of stock and if you are lucky to get one, most have problems.
Have the t500s had any problems?
- 3,942
- Netherlands
- skazz-race
- skazzracer
The T500RS had a few teething troubles back in 2011, which Thrustmaster corrected in a number of minor revisions. The GT6 branded model appears to be solid.
Nobody is going to defend Thrustmaster on the various issues which are popping up. Personally I'm surprised because the T300 seems to be have more teething troubles than the TX despite sharing most internals. I'd guess Thrustmaster is either cutting corners on production QA to get enough stock out, or have switched suppliers and are having QA issues.
I'm sure once the initial launch rush has settled down quality will also improve. In a way it's good that there's only Driveclub on PS4, it gives TM time to get production stabilized prior to the more serious sim releases. As always the early adopters pay the price. But it has ever been so in sim wheel land, and will probably continue to be like this for years to come.
Nobody is going to defend Thrustmaster on the various issues which are popping up. Personally I'm surprised because the T300 seems to be have more teething troubles than the TX despite sharing most internals. I'd guess Thrustmaster is either cutting corners on production QA to get enough stock out, or have switched suppliers and are having QA issues.
I'm sure once the initial launch rush has settled down quality will also improve. In a way it's good that there's only Driveclub on PS4, it gives TM time to get production stabilized prior to the more serious sim releases. As always the early adopters pay the price. But it has ever been so in sim wheel land, and will probably continue to be like this for years to come.
- 170
- jay-16v
Ah cheers for the info regarding belts.... I am very tempted to whip off the cover and see if anything is loose/broken but am worried about warranty issues as I may need to return the bloody thing
I noticed a similar sound in Jirin_cz 2nd video posted a few pages back and seems to be when going right ...
Apart from this clicking issue I agree it is still a Brilliant wheel and works perfectly when in game just needs these clicking-clonking-knocking sounds sorted out and will be a Perfect wheel then . I had no such Issues with my Logitech G25 which cost half the price and see me through 5 years and was still going strong when I sold it...
Could you please make a video when the wheel base cover is removed? To be honest I am trying to focus my ears but on @jay.s video I cant hear anything but motor itself
- 35
- Germany
@jay.s
I was worried too about removing the cover, but is easy and I did it before the RMA so there is no problem with warranty, as long as you don't brake anything. Take a look at this site, is explains the steps for removing the cover (its for T500, but works the same for T300).
http://www.isrtv.com/forums/topic/13161-thrustmaster-tx-fan-replacement/
@jirin_cz
I am sorry, but I only have an old crappy mobile to record videos. It was already barely enough for the Thrustmaster support when they wanted a video of my clunk problem. I had to manually edit the video afterwards to make the clunk noise halfway audible. The slight grinding noise I have is so subtle, that you couldn't hear it on a video. It is really very subtle, but I noticed it right away, because it makes a difference if the wheel turns left or right in the initial calibration process. But I don't notice it during driving. It is that subtle, even with the cover removed. I hope it stays that way.
I was worried too about removing the cover, but is easy and I did it before the RMA so there is no problem with warranty, as long as you don't brake anything. Take a look at this site, is explains the steps for removing the cover (its for T500, but works the same for T300).
http://www.isrtv.com/forums/topic/13161-thrustmaster-tx-fan-replacement/
@jirin_cz
I am sorry, but I only have an old crappy mobile to record videos. It was already barely enough for the Thrustmaster support when they wanted a video of my clunk problem. I had to manually edit the video afterwards to make the clunk noise halfway audible. The slight grinding noise I have is so subtle, that you couldn't hear it on a video. It is really very subtle, but I noticed it right away, because it makes a difference if the wheel turns left or right in the initial calibration process. But I don't notice it during driving. It is that subtle, even with the cover removed. I hope it stays that way.
- 35
- Germany
Regarding the general mood about sounds from the T300rs, we have to keep in mind that this wheel is really quiet in general, especially during driving (as long as you are not on a drifting spree with 1080°... 
). This makes it a lot easier to notice some sound anomalies that you probably wouldn't even hear on louder wheels. When my T300 was away for the RMA, I had to revert back to my old G25. And boy is that a noise-monster coming from the T300. I actually removed it immediately and decided to just quit driving until my T300 would return.
). This makes it a lot easier to notice some sound anomalies that you probably wouldn't even hear on louder wheels. When my T300 was away for the RMA, I had to revert back to my old G25. And boy is that a noise-monster coming from the T300. I actually removed it immediately and decided to just quit driving until my T300 would return.Ok, so what about the photo?
As I wrote before TM support removed the major clunks but did not remove minor clicks. You are right its quite wheel. Maybe one day I will decide I wont have my wheel clicking and send it to RMA again but for now I can live with it
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- 170
- jay-16v
If you can't hear it properly try using a set of headphones but it is very easy to hear imo... the sound you are listening for is the constant clicking while the wheel spins clockwise ( to right ) , it is silent when going anticlockwise ( left ). Yes you can hear the motor but it should not be clicking just a smooth whirring sound which is expected.
Your own video here ( Thrustmaster T300RS Racing Wheel Thread ) 2nd one has a very similar click but is a lot slower as you are doing it by hand, it happens after the clonk in your video and again while going clockwise/right.
Cheers for that , will take a look see what I find
- 645
- ENGLAND
- STEVE182rs
So for someone looking for a wheel just for the PS4 would the T500 be a safer bet to buy, is there much difference FFB wise between the T500 an 300?
The static paddle is a down side but am sure i would adapt to that, on the plus side the pedals look way better.
Its just looking like a lottery when buying a 300 if you get a good one, crazy.
Has anyone bought a T300 in the UK with no problems, if so were from?
- 170
- jay-16v
Apparently a good comparison ( http://www.thrustmaster.com/en_UK/company/thrustmaster-racing-wheel-finder ) but I would disagree with the part that says : T300: the most precise , smooth, Silent and responsive Thrustmaster wheel .... as mine clearly isn't Silent
- 905
- Bournemouth
- glenn_cullen
Thanks for the info everyone, really disappointing to see there are major issues.
@V8-Johnboy hope you're taking note
@V8-Johnboy hope you're taking note
- 645
- ENGLAND
- STEVE182rs
Apparently a good comparison ( http://www.thrustmaster.com/en_UK/company/thrustmaster-racing-wheel-finder ) but I would disagree with the part that says : T300: the most precise , smooth, Silent and responsive Thrustmaster wheel .... as mine clearly isn't Silent
lol nice one, so the share button is a bit of a down side to for the 500, but that could be done by controller surly?
so if you had the choice jay would you still go for the 300 or 500?
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