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And I'm really excited to what Michellin can do to stop this rattle nonsense.
I'm really worried how pronounced the rattle effect will be on wet surface.
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Just above you have David Perel that says the opposite,i trust more a real racing driver like him honestlyThat stupid rattle effect is just a poor try to hide the poor physics/ffb.
GT-S cant produce a proper effect of understeering because of its weak and limited simulation of everything.
So it just outputs that rattle effect to tell you you are now over the tyre max grip.
Its just very very poor and unrealistic, its disgusting.
The laws of physics say it shouldn't happen, I'm going with them.Just above you have David Perel that says the opposite,i trust more a real racing driver like him honestly
So basically you are telling me that @kart.no.38 is not telling the truth... I doubt but ok...The laws of physics say it shouldn't happen, I'm going with them.
I'm stating how the physics work during understeer, details of which can be read in thus thread.So basically you are telling me that @kart.no.38 is not telling the truth... I doubt but ok...
In his video he is clearly talking about understeer, not wheel skip.I'm stating how the physics work during understeer, details of which can be read in thus thread.
Understeer doesn't cause your steering to shake or rattle, it causes it go light. Now suspension bind and/or tyre hop can cause steering to shake or rattle, but that's a different cause.
Personally I have no issue if you doubt it, I've personal experience of both on road and track, and have already explained in this thread how the physics work in this situation.
If you had actually read the thread and my previous posts you would know that it's front wheel skip he's describing.
He's talking about chronic understeer, at which point front wheel skip may well also occur.In his video he is clearly talking about understeer, not wheel skip.
You can turn it down via this setting:at the very least there should be an option to turn them down & off completely (just like there is in AC with its silly oversteer vibration effect).
You can turn it down via this setting:
"Force Feedback Max. Torque
Adjust the maximum torque. This is an example of force feedback, which communicates information about the road surface to the driver through the tires. The greater this value, the duller the response from the tires when cornering hard."
If you set that to 10, and adjust the wheel's force feedback strength down to compensate, the understeer effect will be very weak. If you have a Fanatec wheel, setting FEI to off will further dull the effect.
All I can say is it all feels fine to me with a Fanatec CSW 2.5 (via a DriveHub in Fanatec native mode). I've adjusted the settings so that the understeer effect is at what I regard as the best level for it to inform me while driving - not too strong, not too weak. I'd describe it as a slight vibration, like you say it should be, though if you ignore that slight vibration and increase the amount of steering to make the car understeer even more, it will become stronger, but why would anyone want to do that? At the same time, I feel power oversteer and can correct it very quickly. I feel surface bumps, e.g. Nordschleife feels extremely bumpy. I feel kerbs very strongly, I find it very impressive how the 3D shape of the kerb pulls the wheel in the way that you'd expect it to in real life. There's nothing weak about any of those effects, despite me having adjusted the settings to make the understeer effect a gentle vibration at the point of first developing understeer. I'm not saying it's realistic, just that the feel of that gentle vibration as a mechanism for the game to communicate to me that understeer is beginning doesn't cause me any problem.I'm running a Fanatec CSL Elite and the rattle is absurdly unrealistic. <snip> Understeer should result in the wheel going light only with maybe a slight slight vibration similar to the ABS setting on Fanatec wheels.
<snip>
This is not a acceptable solution as you then remove the actual FFB you want and have dulled everything else as a bandaid for something unrealistic/wrong.
You can't compare CSW V2.5 with CSL Elite. Due to the difference in the drive mechanism the rattle is stronger and noisier with CSL Elite.All I can say is it all feels fine to me with a Fanatec CSW 2.5 (via a DriveHub in Fanatec native mode). I've adjusted the settings so that the understeer effect is at what I regard as the best level for it to inform me while driving - not too strong, not too weak. I'd describe it as a slight vibration, like you say it should be, though if you ignore that slight vibration and increase the amount of steering to make the car understeer even more, it will become stronger, but why would anyone want to do that? At the same time, I feel power oversteer and can correct it very quickly. I feel surface bumps, e.g. Nordschleife feels extremely bumpy. I feel kerbs very strongly, I find it very impressive how the 3D shape of the kerb pulls the wheel in the way that you'd expect it to in real life. There's nothing weak about any of those effects, despite me having adjusted the settings to make the understeer effect a gentle vibration at the point of first developing understeer. I'm not saying it's realistic, just that the feel of that gentle vibration as a mechanism for the game to communicate to me that understeer is beginning doesn't cause me any problem.
Why would it when it happens with all wheels? It's far more likely that it's PD's doing. PD even dictated to Thrustmaster the rim size for the T-GT so I doubt they have much say.I never understand the rattle effect and i’m affraid they never fix this. This probably has something to do with a deal with Thrustmaster.