Weekly Rivals Mode Thread FINAL WEEK

  • Thread starter RikkiGT-R
  • 613 comments
  • 25,081 views
Status
Not open for further replies.
This is going to be quite the challenge for me as it requires a build/tune that is completely the opposite of what I'm used to... I tend to focus on handling rather than top speed, something that's relatively useless at Le Mans. :lol:
Yep me too, never tuned my own cars always just downloaded someone’s :D which can be annoying till you find one you like
 
I'm bummed I didn't get a good run in with the Jag, it seemed promising. Excited to drive at ludicrous speed though. :)
 
Managed to get a 3:46 with the 2016 Spania GTA and 3:48 with the 2009 Pagani Zonda C
found the Zonda very stable but Spania is very unstable it feels very wobbly
I am going to give a couple of other cars a go before trying Lykan or Hennessey

 
I was using the Venom without realising it was a leaderboard car, so good thing I rode too far to the right on the main straight and got a dirty lap. It had to be at around 3:42-44 on by the second lap. I have a Spano and the Cinque, but having just spent my last million on that damn Venom, I'm a bit out of options :lol: I'll be giving the two I have a try later, and if I don't like it, I guess I'm back to the grind for another vehicle.
 
Looks like there are some issues with Lemans on the PC version. It is fine for the first 5 laps or so but after wards starts stuttering pretty bad and requires the game to be restarted to correct it. Makes it a bit more difficult to try and tune then lay down a good lap.
 
Looks like there are some issues with Lemans on the PC version. It is fine for the first 5 laps or so but after wards starts stuttering pretty bad and requires the game to be restarted to correct it. Makes it a bit more difficult to try and tune then lay down a good lap.

The same thing happened me today on the Xbox version. Was stuttering like mad, although it did eventually sort itself out but I felt like I was drunk scrolling through the pre-race menu (I was a few attempts in at this point).
 
Make sure you put the damage setting on cosmetic in order to not have fuel consumption, else you'll end up like my first try with the Agera yesterday and run out of fuel in the Porsche curves on your second lap. :lol:

Still, 3:43.8 as a starting point with the Agera (hitting 240mph along the way), might try something else but I don't really feel like spending a million or more on something I'll never use again after. Stuff I'd normally go for like the Huayra BC or P1 GTR stand absolutely no chance here, which is a bit of a shame. :indiff:
 
I have a time on the leaderboard of around 3:52.xxx with the Zonda C but I've beaten it several times so far on dirty laps :irked:
Tried loads of other cars but just can't get to grips with them. God I wish I understood suspension tuning...
 
I have a time on the leaderboard of around 3:52.xxx with the Zonda C but I've beaten it several times so far on dirty laps :irked:
Tried loads of other cars but just can't get to grips with them. God I wish I understood suspension tuning...
Here are a couple of links that may help a little. The first one gives some simple info on correcting under/over steer the second gives some detailed info about suspension settings. Both are for real cars but can be helpful in tuning within the game as well.

http://speed.academy/how-to-fix-understeer-or-oversteer-suspension-handling-setup-tuning/
http://www.rapid-racer.com/suspension-tuning.php
 
Gave it a quick spin, and i am now the fastest around Circuit La Sarthe.......








In a Bugatti :D
03:45.964.

Can properly take some time off still, was all over the place coming out of the last chicane, was too happy i made it thru there clean and was a sec. up on my last lap :ouch:
 
Had another go with my Zonda Cinque and managed to get below 3:50 with a 3:49.9xx, and I felt like I could get more out of it.
Still, I'm chuffed to get below my target and I'm currently 87th overall, 5th in our little leaderboard (so far lol) and 3rd in hardcore.

Currently trying with an Agera and if I could just get the suspension right (I'm loathe to keep downloading tunes; I want to understand it myself) I reckon I could smash my own record. I'm clearly nowhere near fast enough on the straights with that Zonda (barely get 210mph) so I want to try a car with much better top speed.
Thanks for the links @HBR-Roadhog they will be put to good use :)
 
Well im sure you know this, but when tuning and you got something that works. Make sure you save it ;)

And when playing with the tuning, try not to change too much at the same time. and then try messing with the balance of stuff, say you got your springs at 650 at the front and 580 at the back. it wont change much if you set them at 550 at the front and 490 at the back. try just lowering or raise the front or rear springs, i think that will help figure out faster what things do.

Try posting your current settings, and il try to give you some pointers on what i would do :)
 
Managed to improve my time slightly to 3:40.377 this time in the Agera.

Have tried all the cars in this division now. For those that haven't and want to save some cash, there are only three cars that can realistically post good times here

1. The Venom, fastest by a country mile
2/3. Lykan and Agera, pretty much equal

You've then got a bunch of others that are a good 2-3 seconds slower (Zonda R, P1, Veyron, Spania etc)

On another note, how rubbish is the Zonda R. I was expecting this thing to be a grip monster, it's hopeless
 
Yeah Zonda R is really not what i hoped for in that car, havnt given up on it yet tho....still thinking there must be somewhere it shines :)

Im thinking the Lamborghini Sesto might have a chance at sitting good times, as long as its the version with chicanes, that thing gets out of corners like theres no tomorrow.
 
Had another go with my Zonda Cinque and managed to get below 3:50 with a 3:49.9xx, and I felt like I could get more out of it.
Still, I'm chuffed to get below my target and I'm currently 87th overall, 5th in our little leaderboard (so far lol) and 3rd in hardcore.

Currently trying with an Agera and if I could just get the suspension right (I'm loathe to keep downloading tunes; I want to understand it myself) I reckon I could smash my own record. I'm clearly nowhere near fast enough on the straights with that Zonda (barely get 210mph) so I want to try a car with much better top speed.
Thanks for the links @HBR-Roadhog they will be put to good use :)

Sounds like you need to rebuild your Zonda. I just took one out to try it and got a 3:49.6xx on my second lap, Car can definitely do better with a little more tuning, mine had understeer in most corners slowing me down but was hitting 235mph on the straights and much easier to drive than the Agera.

If you are only getting 210, then I would guess that either you did not put the Turbo upgrade on the car or added the front wing and are running downforce on it. Mine has a bit over 900hp, no front wing and minimum rear downforce on it. Hits 235 before the first chicane, may get a little more once I get the understeer out so I can exit the previous corner faster.
 
Try posting your current settings, and il try to give you some pointers on what i would do :)

I will get some pics up in a minute. Bare in mind I genuinely don't understand the suspension at all really so might look (to you) completely absurd. I can clearly read what each different parameter says, but I don't know what I'm supposed to change to get results. I just fiddle with settings until it's at least drivable :lol:

Sounds like you need to rebuild your Zonda.

I have rear downforce set to 700lb* I think, but no front downforce. To be fair the car is pretty stable and I'm quite pleased with how far I've come with tuning it, but it's all accidental. I had no plan to begin with and, as I said to @UnshavenYapper there, I'm just fiddling with settings randomly.

*in it's current guise the car brakes like hitting a tree. Can start braking for the chicanes at the second marker posts (it has to be the first posts for any other car).

Anyway, pics coming. Excuse my being so amateur :nervous:
 
92CE771C-8BF1-448A-923E-0DF2679E7DBE.jpeg
44DB385D-1EDE-447A-8F68-74E9A38D088F.jpeg
ABB1598B-46B7-4D52-9C75-774021F795DB.jpeg


Anti-roll bars:

Front 29.15
Rear 24.14

Brakes

Balance 45%
Pressure 160%

Differential

Accel 70%
Decel 25%

The three pictures I’ve added are the three parts of tuning I don’t have a clue about.

New post because it’s being an idiot and won’t let me rearrange.
 
How much HP and what weight are you running?
Do you have upgraded tires on it?

I can't imagine running that much DF on Lemans with that car, it understeers with it set as low as it goes so more rear DF means more understeer and lower top speed.

I'm trying to get one dialed in now, Just did an impressive first lap [compared to the previous run anyway] in it at like 3:50.1xx with a few mistakes along the way. Still getting some understeer but a bit better now, unfortunately I went dirty on the next 3 laps so no improvement on my leader board time as of yet. Maybe I set it to a bit longer race for better chance of getting a good clean lap in there.
 
With Camber i allways start with -1,7 on the front, -1,1/1,2 on the back, and work from there. Toe and caster i really dont touch till i'v tryed the car.

Your springs are stiff for my liking, im normally down in the lower 2/5 of the scale. Your balance between bumpstiffness and rebound looks alot like mine, but again up in the stiff end. ;)


Even with MR cars i like my springs to be softer in the back then in the front, might be something you wanna try out?

Also rideheight, changing the balancen can really upset the car. or make it more stable depending of how it felt from stock... Again dont be changing too much in one go. Test Driving and then playing with one value at a time can work wonders ;)
 
How much HP and what weight are you running?
Do you have upgraded tires on it?

I can't imagine running that much DF on Lemans with that car, it understeers with it set as low as it goes so more rear DF means more understeer and lower top speed.

As for HP and weight, I'll need to go back and check again. Didn't realise you needed to know that.
Also - I always assumed more DF = better handling? I've been compromising top speed because I thought the payoff was better handing :D

Class R900

HP - 678

Weight - 2,577lbs

Front tires - 295/30R19
Rear tires - 375/25R20


With Camber i allways start with -1,7 on the front, -1,1/1,2 on the back, and work from there. Toe and caster i really dont touch till i'v tryed the car.

Your springs are stiff for my liking, im normally down in the lower 2/4 of the scale. Your balance between bumpstiffness and rebound looks alot like mine, but again up in the stiff end. ;)


Even with MR cars i like my springs to be softer in the back then in the front, might be something you wanna try out?

Yes but WHY? This is the part I don't understand mate.

What does Camber actually do? (Dumb it down for me)
What difference does bump and rebound make? (ditto)
Why makes springs softer in the back compared to the front? (ditto again)

As an example: tell me something like "lowering the stiffness of the rear springs will see the positive result X"
I realise that the game gives brief explanations for each parameter, but it just seems quite vague and almost as if it says "altering setting A will cause positive effect B but also negative effect C" so I don't change anything because it seems pointless.

Thanks to @HBR-Roadhog I now know that lowering DF will give better handling :lol:
 
Last edited:
As for HP and weight, I'll need to go back and check again. Didn't realise you needed to know that.
Also - I always assumed more DF = better handling? I've been compromising top speed because I thought the payoff was better handing :D

Class R900

HP - 678

Weight - 2,577lbs

Front tires - 295/30R19
Rear tires - 375/25R20

Well when it comes to downforce it is the balance of downforce between front and rear [along with tires and suspension of course] that makes a car handle well. To much DF on the rear results in understeer, to much on the front results in oversteer. More DF means better handling at the expense of top speed, less means more top speed at the expense of handling.

It all depends on which track you are going to run which is better. For very fast tracks you want the top speed over the handling and for twisty tracks you want the opposite. I haven't tried my grip build on the Zonda C as I figured it would be to slow 678hp on the grip build compared to 924hp in the one I am using.
 
The good ol' question WHY? :D

I cant tell you in any easy way mate, iv spent 1000 hours trying to figure it out myself, and you could read and write books about tuning, and still have questions for yourself and readers.

The easy answer is that i like the way my cars feel with these settings?

Lets just take Camber, with -1.7 on the front. with my wheel it gives me a clear indication of when the front tyres are about to lose grib. with the rear camber it feels like an add-on to the Toe. If i run it too high then it feels like the rear end never stops turning. to low and it seems theres to much grip and the car just likes to push/understeer. but i can also go in and fine tune this with the toe.....

Tuning is never gonna be easy, and i admire those guys that seem to be able to get it right every time :)
 
@UnshavenYapper - thanks mate. I got a good link there from @VentureDenny which goes into enough detail without completely baffling me, so I'm studying that now. I really just want to learn to do it myself, but I feel like trial and error isn't enough since there are almost infinite combinations and I don't know where to even start.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back