What have you done to your car today?

Punknoodle
Not to be captain obvious but did you charge the battery? I mean, starter motors don't die from just sitting there, but if the battery was disconnected for a year it would loose its charge and only cause the solenoid to click but not turn over... But I'm sure that would have been the first thing you checked.
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I took the battery out of my fathers car so not a battery issue. The starters on these old Datsun A-Series engines seem to act up when put down for a while.
 
Got an oil change. Ticking went away-- was probably real low in oil pressure.
 
Nice to hear you're keeping up with your maintenance. :lol:

Last night I added a quart to mine, as is usual at about the 2000 mile mark. Right now I'm waiting on various replacement parts to come in the mail so I can sit on them for a month or two until it warms up.
 
Keef
Nice to hear you're keeping up with your maintenance. :lol:
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Haha, good call. Anyway I spoke to the mechanic who worked on my car and he was confident there is no problem, suggests the noise is from the belts being new. (Don't know if I believe that but I'll just keep an ear on it I suppose).

I spent an hour pulling off the passenger door trim as there is a squeak coming from somewhere in the cabin on the passenger side (Now that the ride is firmer it has become apparent, it was fine with the soft suspension :lol:) and the door handle has a squeak so I thought that MUST have been it. Tightened up the screws, stopped the handle from squeaking but turns out, that wasn't the main thing making the noise, so the hunt continues, problem is I can't tell where is is coming from while driving so I might need to get someone in the passenger seat to try to find it while I drive over bumps.

Also, I got a price from Toyota to get replacement rubber weather strips for the windows (it is coming away from the corner on the drivers side, but passenger side aging too, I'm trying to tidy up all the little details) - $317 A SIDE! Whoh... I should be able to repair what I have without showing evidence of a repair using silicon rubber to try and re-attach it, so I'll try that, worse case it doesn't work and I have to buy them anyway, but I'd rather not use that money so I can buy new rims sooner rather than later.

Trying to keep a 21 year old car looking and feeling new is hard work (and expensive :crazy:)

By the way Keef - what are the parts?
 
Punknoodle
I spent an hour pulling off the passenger door trim as there is a squeak coming from somewhere in the cabin on the passenger side (Now that the ride is firmer it has become apparent, it was fine with the soft suspension :lol:) and the door handle has a squeak so I thought that MUST have been it. Tightened up the screws, stopped the handle from squeaking but turns out, that wasn't the main thing making the noise, so the hunt continues, problem is I can't tell where is is coming from while driving so I might need to get someone in the passenger seat to try to find it while I drive over bumps.
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My car makes a gnarly rattle at the right rpm, somewhere just above idle. If I'm cruising through the parking lot at idle this rattle sounds like my engine is about to fall out. It's awful. I got under there to see what it was and found my exhaust manifold heat shield literally hanging by the O2 sensor, so I figured that must be it and I took it off.

It still rattles.

By the way Keef - what are the parts?
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I ordered a bunch of bushings and a couple replacement interior parts. Boring stuff that will be a pain in the ass to install.
 
I gave it a wash for the first time since last April!

P1030165.jpg


More Pictures here: https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=157623
 
You're got to be FREAKIN KIDDING ME?? The other day after I picked up the car I popped the bonnet just to have a look at it, power steering fluid had gone down a bit, but was still as an alright level - I rang the mechanics and told them about it, they said to keep an eye on it and tell them if it drops more - it could have dropped due to an air bubble that has since released itself.

Well, that obviously isn't the case, today I checked it again and it was nearly all out. I also checked the oil today, even though I've only had the car back under a week after an engine rebuild, the the oil level was just below the low mark on the dipstick.

Needless to say I've rung them about the issues and arranged to get it back again. They have been good about it, I just hope its nothing major, and that its covered under the work they performed, so I don't get stung another huge bill.

EDIT: Oh an Reno, that is a beautiful car mate :)
 
installed a new coilovers "fk königsport"...
example pic:
maybe tomorrow I'll got time to make pics of my car with it...today the sun was already gone when installation was finished work...
 
I changed the oil and transmission fluid on the TSX, replaced a bad oxygen sensor, and replaced the broken armrest latch on the console. Couldn't get the transmission filter off to replace it but it should be easy once I get a set of hose clamp pliers.

I also coaxed the Miata to life (it hates sitting in cold waether) and drove it a couple mile to warm it up and excercise it. The right rear wheelbearing is grumbling badly - I have spare knuckles at the machine shop getting new bearings, bushings, and seals pressed in. So in a weekend or two I'll drop the rear suspension and swap those out before autocross season.
 
Got my Hankook V12's(245/35/19 & 275/35/19) in the other day. Still waiting on VIS OEM CF hood, VIS K2 CF trunk, and VIS CF foglight surrounds to arrive from California. Wheels(BBW LM replicas 19x9.5 & 19x10.5 +22f/r) won't ship until March 4th. Hopefully getting 'er lowered on my Eibach Sportlines in a day or two. Gonna change pads/rotors today.

DSC_0491.jpg
 
Josh
Got my Hankook V12's(245/35/19 & 275/35/19) in the other day. Still waiting on VIS OEM CF hood, VIS K2 CF trunk, and VIS CF foglight surrounds to arrive from California. Wheels(BBW LM replicas 19x9.5 & 19x10.5 +22f/r) won't ship until March 4th. Hopefully getting 'er lowered on my Eibach Sportlines in a day or two. Gonna change pads/rotors today.

DSC_0491.jpg
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Being that it appears to be an R-Spec (which came with Brembo brakes), what are you changing the pads and rotors to?
 
Yesterday, I got the MR2's clutch master cylinder changed and its back on the road. Hopefully for longer than its first stint.

Today I took advantage of the beautful weather, came home from work and took the sunroof out and drove out in the country for about an hour. Getting familiar with its oversteer on gravel roads.
 
Perfect Balance
Being that it appears to be an R-Spec (which came with Brembo brakes), what are you changing the pads and rotors to?
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R-Spec indeed. Hawk HPS pads, and R1 Concepts slotted rotors. The factory setup is already amazing, but with 18k on the car now, and a trip to the Tail of the Dragon in April I figured an upgrade couldn't hurt.
 
Just got back from picking my car up, they had to replace the high pressure power steering hose and clamps etc, no more leak. The car doesn't seem to be wasting oil either, maybe it wasn't filled correctly, didn't allow for the new oil filter or something. Who knows, but they checked it all out and it should be a beautiful thing.

Anyway, while I did have the car briefly I removed the damaged rear window tint, took ages but looks much better now, also I think I found that creaking / squeaking, when you hold pressure on the top of the windscreen on the passenger side from the inside, it gets quieter, so I'm taking the car in on Saturday for a windscreen reseal, hopefully that fixes it.
 
Nothing yet. I can't seem to sell my car, nobody wants it, so I'm thinking of getting a little bit more torque (and HP ofcourse).

What I have to do for this, is something I still have to find out.
 
Yep boost! what with what? Exhaust? Chip Tuning? (it's not a turbo and not a diesel, so chip tuning won't make much difference), Air filter? Spark plugs?

Or is it better to install high performance shock absorbers and tires with a lot of grip and reduce the overall weight of the car by removing the back seat, spare wheel and everything else I can miss?

You see, boosting, tuning is not a problem generally but it is for me as money is a big issue. :D
 
What Punknoodle was saying is that you need to add boost... As in a turbo or supercharger.

Problem is of course that it's not exactly cheap... Personally I'd go intake -> chip -> full exhaust. Emission testing tends to get in the way of cheap power; most modern exhaust systems are pretty good flowing after the cat... It's just the stock manifold and cat holding it back.
 
It's not possible to add something, like a turbo or an exhaust in Belgium. Unless I remove it every year when I go to the MOT/motor vehicle inspection
and install it all over again the day after.
 
Well that stinks doesn't it. Do u love the car? (sorry I have no idea what it is) could be cheaper to sell and just buy something quicker. But if that is out of the question then a performance intake with a cold air box, high flow cat, full exhaust and if you can afford it performance exhaust manifold (extractors) will make a noticeable difference to it's performance, and obviously it will sound a lot better!

You're right about the suspension though, nothing makes a car feel more alive like an upgrade to the handling of it, and personally it's one of the first things I did.

Obviously there are a lot more things to do, like cams, head porting coupled with a new ECU for starters but that gets very pricey.
 
Sunday I put fresh hubs and axles under the back of the Manic Miata in preparation for the upcoming autocross season. A new bushing or two while it was apart, as well. Now that annoying wheelbearing noise is gone. 👍
 
put an AEM air filter on the TL, changed the oil (put higher-quality oil in), and replaced the crappy, worn-out Yokohamas(not that Yok's are crappy, the ones we had were TERRIBLE.) with Michelins. I'm thinking about getting some O.Z. Allegerita HLTs for it, seeing as Mom's getting a new car, I kinda want the TL for my own now. what do you guys think for a silver, 2000 Acura 3.2 TL? Black, Red, or Orange(or Black on front, Red on back?)?

also, I changed out the headlight bulbs. i'm thinking 12000K.
 
If you put 12,000K coloured bulbs in your car you aren't going to be able to see anything at night. And if it rains, snows, or is foggy you'll really be screwed. Headlights shouldn't be blue, they are white or white/yellow for a reason.
 
Joey D
If you put 12,000K coloured bulbs in your car you aren't going to be able to see anything at night. And if it rains, snows, or is foggy you'll really be screwed. Headlights shouldn't be blue, they are white or white/yellow for a reason.
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THIS +eleventybillion!!!1!!!111!

If you put those crappy blue megawatt lamps in, all you will succeed in doing is blinding oncoming drivers while simultaneously reducing the amount of usable light you're throwing on the road to help you, you know, SEE and stuff.
 
4300/6000k max. Anything over that is either blue, purple, illegal, or stupid - usually 3 out of 4.
 
And even with that you better not be putting HIDs in a non-HID housing. Those craptastic eBay kits are bad enough when crammed into a halogen housing but a craptastic 12000K kit? Ya you'd really not see anything and you'd really burn the retinas of other motorists.

6000K is really boarder line, I'm sure they'd work but they are still to blue to do much good in poor weather. You'd need yellow fogs to help balance it out. 4000K-4500K seems to be the best if you want a decent light. However, this is assuming you are putting the right bulb in the right housing.
 
I still don't know why yellow headlights are illegal here, but every other color under the sun goes without attention from the police. I've experienced blues and purples too, and they're horrible for visibility in any weather. At least yellow, you know, works. I've had a couple friends get busted for yellow low beams, which I think is just ridiculous.
 

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