Wheel Setup Help

[Goruk]

Just a random question:
why the need for 4 diferent pages to set up a wheel?
Sometimes less is more...

 

[NLxAROSA]

there seems to be a trend emerging on here regarding FFb. That you "need to have all the parameters right" in order to feel the rumble strips etc.. This is not true, the information is not being relayed from the game to the wheel. You can tweak those Fx Fy settings all you like, but you will never get the environmental effects to come though until you they decide to patch it.

So you're saying that by default, the FFB graph in the telemetry HUD is showing you a flatliner? Because if it isn't, the game is in fact generating FFB FX, but the settings prevent them from actually being relayed to the wheel. FFB strength, Deadzone Removal Range and Tyre Force MUST be set properly to prevent clipping (no detail on the top end) or effects not registering at all (no detail on bottom end). And I agree, the defaults do not work well for all wheels. And I also agree that setting the individual car settings (Fx, Fy, etc.) should NOT be where you start your FFB setup, it's where you end...

But again, FFB is easily verified through the telemetry HUD.

 

[copes24]

I'm having the same problem, set the wheel up and its nice when driving the formula cars but i'm struggling for lock when driving the Clio's

The Clios have 900 degrees rotation

 

[bleeder]

- or 1080 degrees if that is the maximum for the wheel (and what you want as the highest possible), as it is on my T500RS.
I assume this '90 degree calibration' is just to set the highest possible steering angle, as many cars (like karts and Formula cars) automatically gets a soft lock (where the car won't react to a higher input than for ex. 360 degrees, at which point you can feel a 'soft limit' stopping any further input - though you can press through it, but won't get more steering lock) to represent real life.

I manually adjusted my T300 until it said 1080 but in the race the drivers hands didn't quite match up to my own; when my wheel was straight the game wheel was slightly wonky, so went back to default and it matches up fine

 

[bleeder]

I have an issue with T300RS. When playing single player the wheel constantly keeps disconnecting and I have to press PS button to reconnect the wheel. This only happens in menus and not during driving.

The biggest problem however is in multiplayer where when starting the race the wheel turns about 30-40 degrees to the left and the force feedback gets stuck there. Only reconnecting the wheel to the ps4 and letting it auto calibrate again mends this issue. It is getting annoying having to do this every time I race online.

Anyone having similar issues?

I've had the second point happen to me in career mode, twice in a row

 

[NLxAROSA]

Just a random question:
why the need for 4 diferent pages to set up a wheel?
Sometimes less is more...

Personally, the only sliders I would touch (until there is a good tuning guide and descriptions of what each setting does) are the global (wheel) settings, and (maybe) the master level of the car. Those should be enough to give you at least all the detail/feel. And even in the global wheel settings there is a lot of stuff that's hard to comprehend, so I guess it's limited to FFB strength/Tyre Force and Deadzone Removal Range. Don't mess with the individual car spindle and SoP settings unless you know what you're doing. I have had the game for several years and I have never even touched those settings. And yes, I have good FFB with just tweaking just the settings I mentioned. 👍

 

[Byrnezy9]

The Clios have 900 degrees rotation

Where in game can i change that setting? Thanks

 

[Goruk]

@NLxAROSA
What wheel and setings do you use?

If you set the deadzone to 0 , will the removal deadzone range and falloff work?

 

[NLxAROSA]

I use a G27 on PC. My settings are as follows:

Logitech Profiler:

Everything default (game will override most of it), 900 degrees, check center spring (0%).

In game:

FFB: 100%
Tyre Force: 75%
Deadzone Removal Range: 0.18

All the rest default. As you can see, I only tweaked a few settings.

Note that DRR is variable per wheel, best thing to do is run a tool like Wheelcheck to find the proper value. For my G27 the number is fairly high, so I MUST set it, or I will lose low-end detail, like kerbs and bumps. For other wheels, it's zero. Also note that FFB deadzone is not the same as steering deadzone, it's something different.

 

[Byrnezy9]

@NLxAROSA
What wheel and setings do you use?

If you set the deadzone to 0 , will the removal deadzone range and falloff work?

I'm using the Thrustmaster T300 GTE WHEEL, first wheel i've had in years.

when i set up the game the wheel lock for turning into the corners was fine but since i tried to calibrate the wheel in game it's got worse

 

[Goruk]

Note that DRR is variable per wheel, best thing to do is run a tool like Wheelcheck to find the proper value. For my G27 the number is fairly high, so I MUST set it, or I will lose low-end detail, like kerbs and bumps. For other wheels, it's zero. Also note that FFB deadzone is not the same as steering deadzone, it's something different.

Thanks for yours responses 👍

Just one more:
DRR?

Now that you frase it that way, it´s a lot easier to understand

 

[UkHardcore23]

I'm using the Thrustmaster T300 GTE WHEEL, first wheel i've had in years.

when i set up the game the wheel lock for turning into the corners was fine but since i tried to calibrate the wheel in game it's got worse

Just reset it.

Im finding the wheel is really heavy to turn is there a setting to make it a bit lighter?

 

[NLxAROSA]

Thanks for yours responses 👍

Just one more:
DRR?

No problem at all, the settings and their descriptions can be quite overwhelming. Just keep firing those questions and we'll keep answering, at least until there are proper guides available. 👍

DRR = Deadzone Removal Range (got tired of typing that all the time ).

 

[UkHardcore23]

No problem at all, the settings and their descriptions can be quite overwhelming. Just keep firing those questions and we'll keep answering, at least until there are proper guides available. 👍

DRR = Deadzone Removal Range (got tired of typing that all the time ).

Im finding the wheel is really heavy to turn is there a setting to make it a bit lighter? without reducing FFB

 

[Pietu]

Im finding the wheel is really heavy to turn is there a setting to make it a bit lighter? without reducing FFB

I found that reducing tire force to 40% and increasing ffb to 100% did the trick for me.

 

[Byrnezy9]

Just reset it.

Im finding the wheel is really heavy to turn is there a setting to make it a bit lighter?

tried to reset till won't turn into the corners.

I found lowering the Master Scale helped with making the wheel lighter

 

[LogiForce]

On the ps4 you manually set the rotation.

Up until now I've set it to the full 900 degrees. Which at first seemed like the logical thing to do. However, in practice (whilst on track) I find it a bit of a handful. Often becoming arm tied when taking hairpins (180 degree turns) or turns greater then 90 degree. this means I am having to apply a lot of turn.

With this in mind I think less is far better and will make going around corners more manageable. I'm going to reduce the rotation (within the wheel calibration setup) by around 50%.

Ultimately I want to be able to take the tightest corner without having to take my hand off of the wheel - to grab more wheel.

You could also fiddle with the steering ratio in the car's setup.

 

[alegunner68]

How do i restore all the ffb settings to default on ps4? I've been fiddling too much and want to start again from scratch...

 

[Byrnezy9]

How do i restore all the ffb settings to default on ps4? I've been fiddling too much and want to start again from scratch...

Like the chap above said reset, i was pressing the wrong button i reset mine now it's back to normal still needs working on but least now it's playable

 

[DJBLITZKRIEG]

So you're saying that by default, the FFB graph in the telemetry HUD is showing you a flatliner? Because if it isn't, the game is in fact generating FFB FX, but the settings prevent them from actually being relayed to the wheel. FFB strength, Deadzone Removal Range and Tyre Force MUST be set properly to prevent clipping (no detail on the top end) or effects not registering at all (no detail on bottom end). And I agree, the defaults do not work well for all wheels. And I also agree that setting the individual car settings (Fx, Fy, etc.) should NOT be where you start your FFB setup, it's where you end...

But again, FFB is easily verified through the telemetry HUD.

are you talking about that green or yellow line? (cant remmeber)

 

[NLxAROSA]

Im finding the wheel is really heavy to turn is there a setting to make it a bit lighter? without reducing FFB

What Pietu said. 👍 If 40 is too light/low for you, you can always increase it a bit, let's say 60.

A top-down approach works best IMO. So global settings first, then change per-car settings. And initially stick to just changing the parameters I mentioned here.

So a good approach would be to set FFB to 100, change Tyre Force to something between 40-100. Setting too high might drown out the 'small' FFB FX, setting too low means you won't feel any small FFB FX either. Use Deadzone Removal Range in case your wheel has a large deadzone (like mine) to bring in the low-end details. This should give decent and detailed FFB already for most cars, but in case of cars that have less detail (like some of the road cars), raise the Master Level per car to something like 50-60.

Those settings should be enough to get started.

are you talking about that green or yellow line? (cant remmeber)

Yellow. Green is for rumble (I think, I noticed I see a green line when using the Xbox 360 controller, and I only have a yellow line when using my G27).

 

[alegunner68]

Like the chap above said reset, i was pressing the wrong button i reset mine now it's back to normal still needs working on but least now it's playableplayable

Cheers! I couldn't see for looking

 

[Mr Latte]

So you're saying that by default, the FFB graph in the telemetry HUD is showing you a flatliner? Because if it isn't, the game is in fact generating FFB FX, but the settings prevent them from actually being relayed to the wheel. FFB strength, Deadzone Removal Range and Tyre Force MUST be set properly to prevent clipping (no detail on the top end) or effects not registering at all (no detail on bottom end). And I agree, the defaults do not work well for all wheels. And I also agree that setting the individual car settings (Fx, Fy, etc.) should NOT be where you start your FFB setup, it's where you end...

But again, FFB is easily verified through the telemetry HUD.

Currently and well I speak of my own experience here so far, to get close to the wheels/games potential (PS4 & T500RS) or to a point of what a user should expect. Setting individual car settings (Fx, Fy, etc.) and others I covered in a recent post is the ONLY place to start. The situation may be different for pads or other wheels/platforms.

Maybe best if people highlight WHAT platform/control method they are using when discussing their issues. Will make things a lot better for everyone...

Fz clearly operates the vertical of the tyre and for anyone NOT feeling rumble strips or bumps etc adjust this setting and you WILL feel them. Fx,Fy forget which one but these can alter the heaviness/stiffness of wheel in turning separate from Master Strength.

SAVED car settings ALSO seem to be for TRACK, its a pain but currently I am finding altering FFB within the "Garage" is the best way presently to find a suitable performance/settings. Once saved they can be loaded from your garage on the main menus.

Just an idea but what possibly should be considered if not here, is a thread for recommended "Garage & FFB" settings "Per Car & Track Combo" Have several people work with the same combo at TT's and practice to develop/tweak settings to obtain a good basis for people to enjoy the game with and then to consider user-fine tuning for personal taste/pref.

I'm open to discussion on PM with other PS4 & T500RS owners.

 

[Roostaboosta]

Where in game can i change that setting? Thanks

Jeez, take some time out and have a look at the in game menus, they are there.

 

[NLxAROSA]

Currently and well I speak of my own experience here so far, to get close to the wheels/games potential (PS4 &T500RS) or to a point of what a user should expect. Setting individual car settings (Fx, Fy, etc.) and others I covered in a recent post is the ONLY place to start.

Well, I disagree. If you start out with wrong FFB/TF/DRR you end up overcompensating those values in the individual tunes and the cars end up feeling off/awkard and/or you get into trouble with other cars later on (which will possibly require you to modify the global settings anyway, and thus having to retune cars you did earlier all over again). Set the globals first and fix them, then go into the individual car settings.

And yes: I agree the individual car settings should be set to get the optimal settings (esp. with high end wheel!), but I do not agree anyone should start there (esp. if unfamiliar). Your global settings must make sense first. One step at a time.

And saved settings for a car can be chosen where they apply: specific track or group of tracks.

 

[Mr Latte]

Well, I disagree. If you start out with wrong FFB/TF/DRR you end up overcompensating those values in the individual tunes and the cars end up feeling off/awkard and/or you get into trouble with other cars later on (which will possibly require you to modify the global settings anyway, and thus having to retune cars you did earlier all over again). Set the globals first and fix them, then go into the individual car settings.

And yes: I agree the individual car settings should be set to get the optimal settings (esp. with high end wheel!), but I do not agree anyone should start there (esp. if unfamiliar). Your global settings must make sense first. One step at a time.

And saved settings for a car can be chosen where they apply: specific track or group of tracks.

Yes but chances are with update/patches expected what we do now in settings may be out the window or of little use after an update/patch.

Not arguing but I made ref to my own experience and what I discuss is in ref to PS4 & T500RS.
We both are talking from different wheels/platforms but currently I've tried doing general calibrating and tweaking from the "wheels menus" (T500RS) and it is evident something ain't working right.

I did calibration and tried a few options but steering was poor, slow, no felt rumble effects either, just awful. Since doing tweaks in "Garage FFB" the difference has been night and day.

Currently I am NOT trying to find "perfected fine tuning" I am just seeking to get enjoyment from the game and wheel and thus far in my own example I am achieving that.

Other peoples experiences, platforms/combinations and methods may vary...

 

[UkHardcore23]

Turning the tyre force down worked a treat, Cheers guys!

 

[NLxAROSA]

Not arguing but I made ref to my own experience and what I discuss is in ref to PS4 & T500RS.

Of course. 👍 And what I gathered is that there are a few issues specific to T500RS/PS4 at the moment. I'm sure those will get fixed, but I doubt it will throw tuning work out the window for other wheel users.

 

[Mr Latte]

Of course. 👍 And what I gathered is that there are a few issues specific to T500RS/PS4 at the moment. I'm sure those will get fixed, but I doubt it will throw tuning work out the window for other wheel users.

Keep up the good work, I will re-look into PS4/T500RS calibration and try to see what option/changes is creating the issues. Understand your point in using a general good calibration and then fine tuning. Its just at the moment the "Garage FFB" for me has been the most fruitful.

As for "set-up tuning" at the moment we don't know what they will change if indeed they are, or are not effected.
You may well be right but personally Im (doing only 4-5 slider changes) to obtain a usable/decent setting and will look more into proper set-ups to enjoy both the career mode/online racing after fixes/bugs improve.

 

[Goruk]

I´ve start with the Deadzone, wheel sensivity, deadzone removal/ falloff, tireforce, ffb force,
Then on the car setup just mess arround with the spindler, steer ratio and SoP
Almost satisfie, later will post some setings, i´m at work now...

At a stand still i can almost fell the ruber scratch the tar 👍

Edit:

From Thrustmaster Facebooks:


Thrustmaster adicionou 4 fotos novas.
Ontem às 13:30 ·
Tips: Project CARS-PS4 (PLUG & PLAY & PRESETS)
Project CARS is now available in a lot of countries.
On the PS4™ versions, the T500, T300, T80, T100 racing wheels are PLUG & PLAY with included PRESETS.
-PLUG & PLAY
1)Plug your steering wheel when the PS4™ menu appears (for T300 & T80, the base’s switch must be put to the PS4 position before connecting the USB plug)
2)For T300 & T80 (only) press the “PS” button on the wheel and connect your wheel to your PROFILE.
3)For all wheels, launch the game using your GAMEPAD CONTROLLER (this is also possible with your wheel if have a T300 & T80).
4)For all wheels, when START appears in the game, just press the X button on your wheel.
5)You’re now ready to play with your Thrustmaster racing wheel!
6)Don’t turn off your gamepad controller (to enjoy the speaker functionality when you play with your wheel)
-PRESETS
You can adjust your wheel’s PRESETS in the OPTIONS / CONTROLS tab (e.g.: Calibrate Wheel, Calibrate Pedals, Calibrate ForceFeedback) and in CONFIGURATION (Axes DeadZone & Sensitivity, ForceFeeback Level, etc.).
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