Wheel Setup Help

[skazz]

I just had my first decent session with the T300 since launch (was using the T500 yesterday).

Interestingly, the T300 comes with the following settings as standard, unlike the T500:

• Relative Adjust Gain = 0.98
• Relative Adjust Bleed = 0.10
• Relative Adjust Clip = 0.96
• Scoop Knee = 0.70
• Scoop Reduction = 0.15

[These settings make the wheel behaviour slightly less linear, effectively making small effects more easily felt]

I left those settings in place (hey, I voted for them to be standard on the T300 on WMD so I can't complain!). And also added the following tweaks:

• Force Feedback 100%
• Damping 0%
• Tire Force 75%
• Deadzone Reduction 0.08

Finally, if a car is too heavy or too light relative to others (e.g. Formula A):

• Reduce or increase the Spindle Master Scale (found in the car-specific setup options within the garage)

I was finding that FFB feel is somewhat dependent on car and setup, but the settings above were definitely a good place to start with the T300. For instance the RUF RGT8-GT3 is a whole lot of fun like this.



Now to figure out how to get the T500 in a similar place... to be continued....

 

[Badinho]

I got my at 900 degrees. I need to lift my hands so often to take turns - cause it takes so much "wheel-space". Are the anything I can do about that?

 

[FOG-Smokebeer]

• Hi guys my first tip for the t3/500 is to make sure you calibrated it (in game)and try in the control config options controller imput mode 1 my ps4 version was set on 3 but my pc version was set on 1 so its best try them all
  

 

[FOG-Smokebeer]

I got my at 900 degrees. I need to lift my hands so often to take turns - cause it takes so much "wheel-space". Are the anything I can do about that?

Have you tried lowering the steering ratio in the cars setup and upping the sensitivity of the wheel in the control options.
I am on 60% atm and lowerd the clio cup steering ration to 12.9.1

 

[bleeder]

Have you tried lowering the steering ratio in the cars setup and upping the sensitivity of the wheel in the control options.
I am on 60% atm and lowerd the clio cup steering ration to 12.9.1

i upped the wheel as well, i think about 70%. i also messed around with the Clio steering ratio and found that if i cranked it way high, even to the max, the car would handle much better for me, it would just go where i wanted it to. going by what the ratio description says, i thought lowering it would be the best choice, which i tried, but i found raising it made a nice difference. worth trying.

 

[Stevedue]

Help me please.
I play Project Cars with a Thrustmaster T300RS, but when I start a race, the machine 9 times out of 10 do not start, I press the accelerator, shift gears, but the car remains stationary on the starting line.
Anyone using the T300RS con help me on this problem?

 

[alegunner68]

Help me please.
I play Project Cars with a Thrustmaster T300RS, but when I start a race, the machine 9 times out of 10 do not start, I press the accelerator, shift gears, but the car remains stationary on the starting line.
Anyone using the T300RS con help me on this problem?

Have you calibrated the pedals?

 

[Gejabo]

Help me please.
I play Project Cars with a Thrustmaster T300RS, but when I start a race, the machine 9 times out of 10 do not start, I press the accelerator, shift gears, but the car remains stationary on the starting line.
Anyone using the T300RS con help me on this problem?

Do you have a clutch pedal?
If not turn on auto clutch maybe it stalls.
Or do the revs go up when you press the accelerator?

 

[Stevedue]

Have you calibrated the pedals?

For fear of doing more damage I have not touched any of the steering wheel setting, I leave it as default.
Today (when I go back to home) I will try to calibrate the pedals.

Do you have a clutch pedal?
If not turn on auto clutch maybe it stalls.
Or do the revs go up when you press the accelerator?

No, I've the standard T300 pedals, with only Brake and Accelerator.
And when I was able to play a race they works perfect.
The problem is only on start or if I'm going to crash and stop against a wall, even then stay stuck, because I put into reverse and press the accelerator, but I do not move.

I see that my T300 use firmware version 23.
Today I try also to upgrade it to the new version 24.
Hope this help.

 

[PRO_TOO]

As there are so many different tips regarding t300 wheel setup, I'm a little confused what to go for. I did not even do the calibrating ingame. I tried once but reset to defaults.
I will calibrate today but please tell what's the difference I have to look for after doing so.
I'm a noob when it comes to such tech stuff. Maybe i better watch that video of Darin explaining things. This might help me out.
Later... fellow race car driver.

 

[paulpg87]

I got my at 900 degrees. I need to lift my hands so often to take turns - cause it takes so much "wheel-space". Are the anything I can do about that?

put it on 540

 

[PRO_TOO]

Am I kinda nuts?! I did the ingame calibrating and now it feels like I have to move the wheel much more to get to the left or right! Weird!

 

[alegunner68]

Try putting steering sensitivity to 100%?

 

[bleeder]

Am I kinda nuts?! I did the ingame calibrating and now it feels like I have to move the wheel much more to get to the left or right! Weird!

my wheel seemed a bit off after calibrating so am running the default for now (which seems fine) whilst I set up the FFB. want to get that nice then I can mess around with the wheel afterwards

 

[PRO_TOO]

Thing is, if you reset all is gone. I wish I could just reset the calibration process.

 

[bleeder]

Thing is, if you reset all is gone. I wish I could just reset the calibration process.

yes, that is true. the pedals don't take any time to redo, and i've only moved a couple if sliders in there so no biggie for me.

 

[Sureboss]

I just had my first decent session with the T300 since launch (was using the T500 yesterday).

Interestingly, the T300 comes with the following settings as standard, unlike the T500:

• Relative Adjust Gain = 0.98
• Relative Adjust Bleed = 0.10
• Relative Adjust Clip = 0.96
• Scoop Knee = 0.70
• Scoop Reduction = 0.15

[These settings make the wheel behaviour slightly less linear, effectively making small effects more easily felt]

I left those settings in place (hey, I voted for them to be standard on the T300 on WMD so I can't complain!). And also added the following tweaks:

• Force Feedback 100%
• Damping 0%
• Tire Force 75%
• Deadzone Reduction 0.08

Finally, if a car is too heavy or too light relative to others (e.g. Formula A):

• Reduce or increase the Spindle Master Scale (found in the car-specific setup options within the garage)

I was finding that FFB feel is somewhat dependent on car and setup, but the settings above were definitely a good place to start with the T300. For instance the RUF RGT8-GT3 is a whole lot of fun like this.



Now to figure out how to get the T500 in a similar place... to be continued....

@V8-Johnboy

Dearest, this might be helpful.

Increase your spindle!

 

[V8-Johnboy]

@V8-Johnboy

Dearest, this might be helpful.

Increase your spindle!

Spindle!!! Will try that dear thank you. Sound issue again today grrrrrrr! Oh and Monaco and Geoff's = death.

 

[Rexuz]

I found that reducing tire force to 40% and increasing ffb to 100% did the trick for me.

Where do I reduce the tire force? Can't seem to find it. Might be blind tho.

 

[NLxAROSA]

Where do I reduce the tire force? Can't seem to find it. Might be blind tho.

In the 'Calibrate FFB' section (button next to Calibrate Wheel and Calibrate Pedals).

 

[Mr Latte]

• Hi guys my first tip for the t3/500 is to make sure you calibrated it (in game)and try in the control config options controller imput mode 1 my ps4 version was set on 3 but my pc version was set on 1 so its best try them all

Updated my previous post for T500RS setup. #36
See how you get on but wheel works fine on input mode 3 / PS4

 

[bleeder]

wait, the controller modes affect the wheel? thought they'd be just for the pad

 

[bleeder]

well worth watching. will try some of this stuff later. the text he's referring to is from someone over at racingdepartment.com I believe:

 

[bleeder]

after reading a lot of posts here and watching the ISR video up there ^^ I can safely say I agree with all the people who have reduced the Fx/Fy/Fz sliders. with FFB set to 100% those sliders need taking down somewhat for the T300 as the wheel is way too stiff at the default settings.

I'm running with:

master scale 26 (I bump this up to 40ish sometimes)
Fx 40
Fy 40
Fz 70.01
Mz 100.01
all smoothing off. can actually turn the wheel without a struggle and the general FFB feels a lot better. then I adjust the steering ratio per car until I like how it turns in.
SoP lat 10
SoP diff 10

the feedback I got from t'internet was valuable as always 👍

 

[Cyber_stig_77]

I just had my first decent session with the T300 since launch (was using the T500 yesterday).

Interestingly, the T300 comes with the following settings as standard, unlike the T500:

• Relative Adjust Gain = 0.98
• Relative Adjust Bleed = 0.10
• Relative Adjust Clip = 0.96
• Scoop Knee = 0.70
• Scoop Reduction = 0.15

[These settings make the wheel behaviour slightly less linear, effectively making small effects more easily felt]

I left those settings in place (hey, I voted for them to be standard on the T300 on WMD so I can't complain!). And also added the following tweaks:

• Force Feedback 100%
• Damping 0%
• Tire Force 75%
• Deadzone Reduction 0.08

Finally, if a car is too heavy or too light relative to others (e.g. Formula A):

• Reduce or increase the Spindle Master Scale (found in the car-specific setup options within the garage)

I was finding that FFB feel is somewhat dependent on car and setup, but the settings above were definitely a good place to start with the T300. For instance the RUF RGT8-GT3 is a whole lot of fun like this.



Now to figure out how to get the T500 in a similar place... to be continued....

Those settings are available on the T500.

 

[V8-Johnboy]

after reading a lot of posts here and watching the ISR video up there ^^ I can safely say I agree with all the people who have reduced the Fx/Fy/Fz sliders. with FFB set to 100% those sliders need taking down somewhat for the T300 as the wheel is way too stiff at the default settings.

I'm running with:

master scale 26 (I bump this up to 40ish sometimes)
Fx 40
Fy 40
Fz 70.01
Mz 100.01
all smoothing off. can actually turn the wheel without a struggle and the general FFB feels a lot better. then I adjust the steering ratio per car until I like how it turns in.
SoP lat 10
SoP diff 10

the feedback I got from t'internet was valuable as always 👍

Gonna try this tomorrow thanks.👍

 

[PRO_TOO]

after reading a lot of posts here and watching the ISR video up there ^^ I can safely say I agree with all the people who have reduced the Fx/Fy/Fz sliders. with FFB set to 100% those sliders need taking down somewhat for the T300 as the wheel is way too stiff at the default settings.

I'm running with:

master scale 26 (I bump this up to 40ish sometimes)
Fx 40
Fy 40
Fz 70.01
Mz 100.01
all smoothing off. can actually turn the wheel without a struggle and the general FFB feels a lot better. then I adjust the steering ratio per car until I like how it turns in.
SoP lat 10
SoP diff 10

the feedback I got from t'internet was valuable as always 👍

But this is all car specific, right?! I want to set the master settings (settings > controles) right. I have no time or patience or whatever to set up every car with specific settings!

 

[crowhop]

Pro tip: Do not plug your DFGT into a USB3 port on PC. I figured out that was a major source of my issues.

 

[bleeder]

But this is all car specific, right?! I want to set the master settings (settings > controles) right. I have no time or patience or whatever to set up every car with specific settings!

I've started to apply these settings in my garage after I've selected a car to drive. I guess it may not be good for all cars, but it's working with the GT cars so far. I highly recommend turning down those F values though if you can, unless you want extremely toned arm muscles lol

 

[WRXLENT]

after reading a lot of posts here and watching the ISR video up there ^^ I can safely say I agree with all the people who have reduced the Fx/Fy/Fz sliders. with FFB set to 100% those sliders need taking down somewhat for the T300 as the wheel is way too stiff at the default settings.

I'm running with:

master scale 26 (I bump this up to 40ish sometimes)
Fx 40
Fy 40
Fz 70.01
Mz 100.01
all smoothing off. can actually turn the wheel without a struggle and the general FFB feels a lot better. then I adjust the steering ratio per car until I like how it turns in.
SoP lat 10
SoP diff 10

the feedback I got from t'internet was valuable as always 👍

The problem with that is when you race online you can't edit the car's setup so steering is super heavy.
What is the advantage in having FFB set to 100% and then using Master Scale or Fxyz to turn it down over just turning down FFB?
We need a setting which gives the great detail, and then a single global setting which we can use to set the steering load for our personal tastes.