Wheel Setup Help

For fear of doing more damage I have not touched any of the steering wheel setting, I leave it as default.
Today (when I go back to home) I will try to calibrate the pedals.



No, I've the standard T300 pedals, with only Brake and Accelerator.
And when I was able to play a race they works perfect.
The problem is only on start or if I'm going to crash and stop against a wall, even then stay stuck, because I put into reverse and press the accelerator, but I do not move.

I see that my T300 use firmware version 23.
Today I try also to upgrade it to the new version 24.
Hope this help.
As Gejabo said, check your settings for auto clutch and car start. You've probably got it set to manual and it stalls, then is waiting for you to start it.
 
The problem with that is when you race online you can't edit the car's setup so steering is super heavy.
What is the advantage in having FFB set to 100% and then using Master Scale or Fxyz to turn it down over just turning down FFB?
We need a setting which gives the great detail, and then a single global setting which we can use to set the steering load for our personal tastes.
hmm, I haven't been online a lot yet, are you saying we can't bring tuned cars into lobbies? is that down to the host?
also I'm sure there's a difference between FFB level and the Fxyz levels. the Fxyz determines how the FFB is affected by the road and tyres whereas the main FFB is just powerrrrr. someone may need to explain further lol
 
The problem with that is when you race online you can't edit the car's setup so steering is super heavy.
What is the advantage in having FFB set to 100% and then using Master Scale or Fxyz to turn it down over just turning down FFB?
We need a setting which gives the great detail, and then a single global setting which we can use to set the steering load for our personal tastes.

Not at the game presently but I noticed their is a feature within the Main Menu "GARAGE" that when you select a car and set-up you can apply the settings to ALL TRACKS.

Needs tested to make sure it works with the game having bugs...
 
hmm, I haven't been online a lot yet, are you saying we can't bring tuned cars into lobbies? is that down to the host?
also I'm sure there's a difference between FFB level and the Fxyz levels. the Fxyz determines how the FFB is affected by the road and tyres whereas the main FFB is just powerrrrr. someone may need to explain further lol
Fxyz determines the level of FFB on lateral, longitudinal and vertical tire forces, but also determines the level of overall FFB as well. The higher you set the Fxyz levels, the higher the FFB overall. Also changing the mix of those adjustments affects the ratio of how you feel each effect. If you want emphasize the bumps and undulations in the road, up that slider for example. My thinking is to set the master FFB and the Tire Force to 100 and then adjust the Master Scale per car for overall strength and then fine tune the Fxyz values to balance out the FFB for those forces. Most of my Master scale settings on the 4 or 5 cars I've attempted to set up are in the low to mid-20's. Watch the ISR video from the last page, it's quite informative.

Also, pay attention to the FFB telemetry on the HUD. Anyone on a DFGT or G27 is going to find that it doesn't take a lot of wheel weight to introduce clipping.

Not at the game presently but I noticed their is a feature within the Main Menu "GARAGE" that when you select a car and set-up you can apply the settings to ALL TRACKS.

Needs tested to make sure it works with the game having bugs...
It works on PC for sure, done it several times. Once I set the FFB up on a car, I copy it to all tracks so that I don't have to do it again every time I go to a new track. I might have to tune a bit and change gear ratios here and there but the FFB should be basically the same everywhere.
 
Fxyz determines the level of FFB on lateral, longitudinal and vertical tire forces, but also determines the level of overall FFB as well. The higher you set the Fxyz levels, the higher the FFB overall. Also changing the mix of those adjustments affects the ratio of how you feel each effect. If you want emphasize the bumps and undulations in the road, up that slider for example. My thinking is to set the master FFB and the Tire Force to 100 and then adjust the Master Scale per car for overall strength and then fine tune the Fxyz values to balance out the FFB for those forces. Most of my Master scale settings on the 4 or 5 cars I've attempted to set up are in the low to mid-20's. Watch the ISR video from the last page, it's quite informative.

Also, pay attention to the FFB telemetry on the HUD. Anyone on a DFGT or G27 is going to find that it doesn't take a lot of wheel weight to introduce clipping.

It works on PC for sure, done it several times. Once I set the FFB up on a car, I copy it to all tracks so that I don't have to do it again every time I go to a new track. I might have to tune a bit and change gear ratios here and there but the FFB should be basically the same everywhere.
when you say gear ratios do you just move the final drive slider? there's a discussion going on in another thread about gear ratios. it looks to me like the final drive slider is the only one worth adjusting.

also I used the telemetry HUD. very useful. even at high FFB strength my T300 wasn't clipping so that's good. it's always tricky when there are so many sliders and some seem to have a similar effect as each other. thanks for the feedback.
 
when you say gear ratios do you just move the final drive slider? there's a discussion going on in another thread about gear ratios. it looks to me like the final drive slider is the only one worth adjusting.

also I used the telemetry HUD. very useful. even at high FFB strength my T300 wasn't clipping so that's good. it's always tricky when there are so many sliders and some seem to have a similar effect as each other. thanks for the feedback.
I've only adjust a couple of gear ratios but I do realize it's pretty limited. I assume that's because the real life cars are also limited which is fine with me. I think the only one I adjusted was the Formula A for the Driver Network event as I was topping out at Barcelona with stock settings once I figured out to use DRS:sly:
 
I've only adjust a couple of gear ratios but I do realize it's pretty limited. I assume that's because the real life cars are also limited which is fine with me. I think the only one I adjusted was the Formula A for the Driver Network event as I was topping out at Barcelona with stock settings once I figured out to use DRS:sly:
yes I've just noticed that in some cars there's a lot more ratio adjusting than others (Z4 and Capri for example, more room to move sliders for the Capri) so I supposed it is based on reality. I'll take the Z4 back to Bathurst as it tops out near the final corners and see if the final drive slider can stop it.
 
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Only to inform you that I resolved all my problem with the T300RS doing a firmware upgrade.
I've the old firmware version 23. Upgrade to the new 24 version, and now the wheel works perfectly :)
 
I just had my first decent session with the T300 since launch (was using the T500 yesterday).

Interestingly, the T300 comes with the following settings as standard, unlike the T500:
  • Relative Adjust Gain = 0.98
  • Relative Adjust Bleed = 0.10
  • Relative Adjust Clip = 0.96
  • Scoop Knee = 0.70
  • Scoop Reduction = 0.15
[These settings make the wheel behaviour slightly less linear, effectively making small effects more easily felt]

I left those settings in place (hey, I voted for them to be standard on the T300 on WMD so I can't complain!). And also added the following tweaks:
  • Force Feedback 100%
  • Damping 0%
  • Tire Force 75%
  • Deadzone Reduction 0.08
Finally, if a car is too heavy or too light relative to others (e.g. Formula A):
  • Reduce or increase the Spindle Master Scale (found in the car-specific setup options within the garage)

I was finding that FFB feel is somewhat dependent on car and setup, but the settings above were definitely a good place to start with the T300. For instance the RUF RGT8-GT3 is a whole lot of fun like this.



Now to figure out how to get the T500 in a similar place... to be continued....

Ok, I now know how to make the T500 feel superb: http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?22938-Jack-Spade-FFB-Tweaker-Files

Do this, tweak tyre force down a little to avoid clipping. Then stop worrying about FFB and get on with actually racing. Job done.
 
So if these fxyz settings are best set for each car separate, Ill wait till some user creates a list of all cars to set them up with a t300 properly. :P :D
 
Hi pro_too, that might be a good idea! I spent more time in ffb settings than actual racing. Think I'm getting obsessed with it, can't stop fiddling!
 
So if these fxyz settings are best set for each car separate, Ill wait till some user creates a list of all cars to set them up with a t300 properly. :P :D
but that would just be his personally preference, you might like it different. looking around it seems like most people are turning the fxyz down from the off which makes me wonder why SMS have the defaults so high. also are these default settings the same no matter which wheel or does the game change the values depending on whether you have a G27, T300 etc?
 
These settings are creating far more questions than answers.
A lot of them don't have any description at all which doesn't help,
A troubleshooting guide would be invaluable for me, but with so many variables I'm not holding out much hope.
Think I'm getting obsessed with it, but i just want the best experience possible
 
Ok I can't stress enough how much you need to tweak your FFB settings on the PS4 version at least. Since getting the game I've left everything to default and been racing like this for two rounds of the Clio Cup.

While not too bad I found it to be lacking in real information about what the car was doing and on Snetterton in the slow corners it's was way too heavy.

So I've bided my time until this morning to try out some suggested settings, this allowed for more adventurous people to venture forth and do some of the hard work for me. Now I've had a chance to read what others have found I'd like to offer what I've found out.

The details below are for my personal taste and currently is for 1 car (Clio Cup Car) but it may help get on the correct path with your own journey. I'm using the Thrustmaster T300RS wheel.

Basic FFB Settings (Universal)

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As stated these are what feel good for me. They may not for you.

Clio FFB

  • Master Scale - 34 <- lower than earlier
  • Fx Scale - 44
  • Fy Scale - 40
  • Fz Scale - 54
  • Mz Scale - 100
  • All Smoothing for the above - 0
  • Arm Angle - 2000
  • Body Scale - 0
  • Body Long Scale - 0
  • Body Stiff - 100
  • Body Damp - 100
  • SoP Scale - 0
  • SoP Lat Scale - 10
  • SoP Diff Scale - 10
  • SoP Damp - 0
I found the above really make the feeling of weight when you have heavy impacts but keeps all the subtle ticks etc of the road but isn't too heavy to drive.
 
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Can someone test this for me please :
Get on track in the cosworth, at a standstill apply full lock then very slowly apply throttle. Does the wheel snap straight?
I know it's not important but it's bugging the hell out of me that i can't sort it, the open wheelers don't do it.
Muchos gratis
 
Can someone test this for me please :
Get on track in the cosworth, at a standstill apply full lock then very slowly apply throttle. Does the wheel snap straight?
I know it's not important but it's bugging the hell out of me that i can't sort it, the open wheelers don't do it.
Muchos gratis

I'll give it a go now for you.


Yes it does for me too.
 
Ok, I now know how to make the T500 feel superb: http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?22938-Jack-Spade-FFB-Tweaker-Files

Do this, tweak tyre force down a little to avoid clipping. Then stop worrying about FFB and get on with actually racing. Job done.
Have you actually done this and can you tell us how well it worked? I've known about these tweaks for months, didn't think we'd actually be able to do it in the game. Any feedback would be appreciated:tup: How do you install it, step by step? Any caveats?
 
Have you actually done this and can you tell us how well it worked? I've known about these tweaks for months, didn't think we'd actually be able to do it in the game. Any feedback would be appreciated:tup: How do you install it, step by step? Any caveats?
You just download the zip file and place the tweaker files into \My Documents\Project Cars\FFB folder. They override FFB settings per car in the UI. So you only need to set the FFB for the wheel once (using the settings in Jack's post) and you are basically done.

As I said, I found the T500 works great with everything as listed in Jack Spade's post. Option 2 FFB tweak files, and I dropped tyre force to 75% to avoid clipping. I'm done now, no more per car tweaking.

The benefits I experienced:
- more road feel (except on very flat pieces of Tarmac the wheel now vibrates gently over microbumps)
- kerbs feel much more prominent
- the wheel goes light during under steer much better
- you feel more when you are losing rear grip, easier to feel oversteer about to happen and when in progress, easier to hold slides
 
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Ok I can't stress enough how much you need to tweak your FFB settings on the PS4 version at least. Since getting the game I've left everything to default and been racing like this for two rounds of the Clio Cup.

While not too bad I found it to be lacking in real information about what the car was doing and on Snetterton in the slow corners it's was way too heavy.

So I've bided my time until this morning to try out some suggested settings, this allowed for more adventurous people to venture forth and do some of the hard work for me. Now I've had a chance to read what others have found I'd like to offer what I've found out.

The details below are for my personal taste and currently is for 1 car (Clio Cup Car) but it may help get on the correct path with your own journey. I'm using the Thrustmaster T300RS wheel.

Basic FFB Settings (Universal)

View attachment 363375

View attachment 363376

View attachment 363377

View attachment 363378

As stated these are what feel good for me. They may not for you.

Clio FFB

  • Master Scale - 34 <- lower than earlier
  • Fx Scale - 44
  • Fy Scale - 40
  • Fz Scale - 54
  • Mz Scale - 100
  • All Smoothing for the above - 0
  • Arm Angle - 2000
  • Body Scale - 0
  • Body Long Scale - 0
  • Body Stiff - 100
  • Body Damp - 100
  • SoP Scale - 0
  • SoP Lat Scale - 10
  • SoP Diff Scale - 10
  • SoP Damp - 0
I found the above really make the feeling of weight when you have heavy impacts but keeps all the subtle ticks etc of the road but isn't too heavy to drive.
that's all based on the information from the ISR video, right? pretty much what I use too. one thing that you have different is the soft steering dampening set to ON. does this make a big difference? will try it out later. they're good settings to start from for sure
 
that's all based on the information from the ISR video, right? pretty much what I use too. one thing that you have different is the soft steering dampening set to ON. does this make a big difference? will try it out later. they're good settings to start from for sure

Indeed. I also added some more to the Master Scale. Those settings work great for the Clio but suck with the Ginetta. They are the perfect starting point as you say.
 
A good starting point for every car ?
most cars I've tried have the same (or very similar) default Fxyz settings apart from the karts, which have a lower value assigned. I wouldn't say the handling is massively affected if you adjust these sliders, but you'll definitely be fighting the wheel a lot less because it will be easier to turn it, and you'll still feel all the bumps and suchlike. I'm going to reset a car to default Fxyz later for a few laps then revert to the new settings again just for a test.

to truly change the handling you'll have to enter to vast and overwhelming realm of the tuning set up screens
 
A good starting point for every car ?

I agree with @bleeder I tuned the FFB for the Ginetta to the exact same settings and it really was poor. I'd defiantly start there and start tweaking. The way he does on ISR by going back and forth is a very nice way to tweak and adjust settings.
 
Have you actually done this and can you tell us how well it worked? I've known about these tweaks for months, didn't think we'd actually be able to do it in the game. Any feedback would be appreciated:tup: How do you install it, step by step? Any caveats?
Also using these. In combination with proper Deadzone Removal Range and Tyre Force at 75% they are great for my G27. 👍 If not used out-of-the-box these should at least give someone enough inspiration to tweak themselves.

Just copy the FFB folder into your /Documents/Project CARS folder. Don't like it, throw it away again or rename it. Note that these take precedence over the UI settings. The UI settings will not show the values from the XML files.
 
I agree with @bleeder I tuned the FFB for the Ginetta to the exact same settings and it really was poor. I'd defiantly start there and start tweaking. The way he does on ISR by going back and forth is a very nice way to tweak and adjust settings.
I just took the Ginetta Junior out for a few races and found I needed to increase my ISR Fxyz settings a bit or it felt a little floaty, couldn't feel the road a lot, so there's definitely not one setup for all. only raised the values a little bit and it felt better. the default is 100, I'm now thinking I'll try 50 as minimum, see how that goes.
 
I'm wondering if there is a mathematical sweet spot for these settings? If so a simple spreadsheet could be created and then a few parameters can be filled out and it spits out the best settings the other end.
 
Well, for some of them, there is (and there are tools to automate/detect it), but others are pure feel/preference.

I wish I had the PC version to get the tools to look into this in more depth.
 
Yes, until some developer decides to implement something like Wheelcheck (and others) out-of-the-box, it's pretty much trial-and-error on consoles.
 
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