Where is the state of GT7 Tuning?

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After getting a PS5 Pro as an early Christmas gift for the family, I have gotten hooked on Gran Turismo again after not playing since GT6. One thing I noticed is that not many people have been into tuning like it was back in the GT5 and GT6 days. What gives???

Has tuning been solved and I just don't know it? Do players not tune anymore and just use pre-loaded race cars for the most part? Is the player base so low that there just aren't that many people tuning in the game? Is there another place on the Web other than GT planet where people post tunes? Maybe all are true and I'm on my own, tuning cool street legal cars to run just as smoothly as the race cars?

Inquiring minds want to know?
 
An old tuner chiming in... life happened. That, and a change to many people wanting absolute maximum performance (all engine mods, racing tyres, etc.) out of a car instead of turning it into what could be called a street tuned car.
 
The thing with tuning, and I don't mean doing the actual tuning but what's seen as tuning on GTP, ie. people making cars for others to drive... is that it's a one size fits nobody situation. Those who were around in the GT4 days know that I have an idea of what I'm talking about, and I still stand by my opinion as weird as it sounds. Been there, done that, got a lot of praise for it, but still.

Of course every car can be improved from stock but when it comes to making it really good, nobody makes a car for YOU better than YOU because nobody else knows how it's really being driven and handles in different situations with YOU behind the wheel as nobody else drives it in a similar way.
 
The thing with tuning, and I don't mean doing the actual tuning but what's seen as tuning on GTP, ie. people making cars for others to drive... is that it's a one size fits nobody situation. Those who were around in the GT4 days know that I have an idea of what I'm talking about, and I still stand by my opinion as weird as it sounds. Been there, done that, got a lot of praise for it, but still.

Of course every car can be improved from stock but when it comes to making it really good, nobody makes a car for YOU better than YOU because nobody else knows how it's really being driven and handles in different situations with YOU behind the wheel as nobody else drives it in a similar
This
 
The thing with tuning, and I don't mean doing the actual tuning but what's seen as tuning on GTP, ie. people making cars for others to drive... is that it's a one size fits nobody situation. Those who were around in the GT4 days know that I have an idea of what I'm talking about, and I still stand by my opinion as weird as it sounds. Been there, done that, got a lot of praise for it, but still.

Of course every car can be improved from stock but when it comes to making it really good, nobody makes a car for YOU better than YOU because nobody else knows how it's really being driven and handles in different situations with YOU behind the wheel as nobody else drives it in a similar way.
That's more or less what my tuning series tries to cover - everyone has preferences - some like a car that rotates on corner entry where I like a car to be stable and predictable, so I usually try to present my videos in a way where people can draw their own conclusions to suit their own style.
 
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I suppose it depends what you are tuning for, but I think the PP system is a big part of the problem, perhaps you'd get more people sharing tunes if it wasn't so easy to game the PP system for performance.

I know nothing about how to tune a car properly, and I really respect those who do, like @lbpomg95 or @AlexWilmot, but usually it's not necessary to know what you are doing. You can make almost any car work for PP restricted online lobbies with the same simple steps: maximum rear downforce (or whichever number gives you the lowest PP), stock suspension unless the car really doesn't work (90% are just fine), fully customisable LSD + body rigidity to lower PP further, and then add power / reduce weight till you hit your PP goal. Sure you could add customisable suspension and do it properly, but most of the time you end up with a slower car that is only marginally better to drive, because you lose too much pp by adding the suspension. And don't get me started on the number of cars that have insane PP glitches!

It's surely different if you are tuning for events with tyre wear and fuel efficiency, then you might have to know what you're doing, but most of the singleplayer events are far too easy for that to be a concern. You want to win the WTC600 at Tokyo? It's really not hard to build a suitable car, even if you know nothing.
 
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I suppose it depends what you are tuning for, but I think the PP system is a big part of the problem, perhaps you'd get more people sharing tunes if it wasn't so easy to game the PP system for performance.

I know nothing about how to tune a car properly, and I really respect those who do, like @lbpomg95 or @AlexWilmot, but usually it's not necessary to know what you are doing. You can make almost any car work for PP restricted online lobbies with the same simple steps: maximum rear downforce (or whichever number gives you the lowest PP), stock suspension unless the car really doesn't work (90% are just fine), fully customisable LSD + body rigidity to lower PP further, and then add power / reduce weight till you hit your PP goal. Sure you could add customisable suspension and do it properly, but most of the time you end up with a slower car that is only marginally better to drive, because you lose too much pp by adding the suspension. And don't get me started on the number of cars that have insane PP glitches!

It's surely different if you are tuning for events with tyre wear and fuel efficiency, then you might have to know what you're doing, but most of the singleplayer events are far too easy for that to be a concern. You want to win the WTC600 at Tokyo? It's really not hard to build a suitable car, even if you know nothing.
Very interesting and definitely something to think about. Thanks
 
Sure you could add customisable suspension and do it properly, but most of the time you end up with a slower car that is only marginally better to drive, because you lose too much pp by adding the suspension.
As harsh as it sounds, most people mess the car up badly by doing what seems logical by their idea of racing cars. Very stiff, very low, tons of camber - none of which works at all until you get to racing tyres, and often not even then. And then they wonder why they have trouble even keeping it on the road as it's skipping and hopping everywhere, let alone being fast with it.

Another thing is that everything must work together. I know that many people do Frankentunes by taking the engine from somewhere, downforce and other body specs from somewhere, suspension settings from somewhere and LSD settings from somewhere. Throw in a transmission from somewhere. The result is almost guaranteed to be a nightmare as the LSD is fighting the suspension, and very probably the engine doesn't match the gear ratios and the suspension either.
 
I suppose it depends what you are tuning for, but I think the PP system is a big part of the problem, perhaps you'd get more people sharing tunes if it wasn't so easy to game the PP system for performance.

I know nothing about how to tune a car properly, and I really respect those who do, like @lbpomg95 or @AlexWilmot, but usually it's not necessary to know what you are doing. You can make almost any car work for PP restricted online lobbies with the same simple steps: maximum rear downforce (or whichever number gives you the lowest PP), stock suspension unless the car really doesn't work (90% are just fine), fully customisable LSD + body rigidity to lower PP further, and then add power / reduce weight till you hit your PP goal. Sure you could add customisable suspension and do it properly, but most of the time you end up with a slower car that is only marginally better to drive, because you lose too much pp by adding the suspension. And don't get me started on the number of cars that have insane PP glitches!

It's surely different if you are tuning for events with tyre wear and fuel efficiency, then you might have to know what you're doing, but most of the singleplayer events are far too easy for that to be a concern. You want to win the WTC600 at Tokyo? It's really not hard to build a suitable car, even if you know nothing.
Out of interest, do yiu tune the fully customised lsd as part of this. Or not bother?

Where do tyres fit into this, do yiu tend to focus on power/weight, over tyres and braking components

As general thing, no doubt some variation in ykur approach, depending on factors.
 
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B80
Out of interest, do yiu tune the fully customised lsd as part of this. Or not bother?

Where do tyres fit into this, do yiu tend to focus on power/weight, over tyres and braking components

As general thing, no doubt some variation in ykur approach, depending on factors.
Usually the LSD reduces the PP rating and makes the car drive better if tuned right, so I'd recommend it.

Depending on the car, weight and downforce can be better used for a PP limit. Maxing the rear downforce and reducing front downforce usually results in more stability and a reduced PP rating. Meanwhile adding ballast weight can reduce wheelspin and improved handling while reducing the PP rating.

Some classic muscle cars are actually faster with 50-100kg of ballast over the rear axle, despite the PP rating being lower.

If a race has tyre wear, it usually pays to just use the hard tyre and run more power.
 
B80
Out of interest, do yiu tune the fully customised lsd as part of this. Or not bother?

Where do tyres fit into this, do yiu tend to focus on power/weight, over tyres and braking components

As general thing, no doubt some variation in ykur approach, depending on factors.
Yes, I do adjust the LSD.

Here is my very unscientific method for building cars, it seems to work but I want to be clear (again) that I don't understand proper tuning, and would always defer to someone who does. This is just a few things I've discovered that work specifically for GT7, I don't know why they work, but I know they do because a) I've done a lot of testing and compared lap times vs proper tunes (Praiano etc.), and b) I've won many online lobby races with builds following this method.

The TL;DR version is: stock suspension, LSD set to 5/30/5, right tyres for the PP (rough ranges below), stock brakes, no front downforce, max rear downforce, fully customisable transmission, play about with ballast. Add widebody, rigidity, 1x weight reduction.

Suspension:
My golden rule is to use the stock suspension unless the car really is difficult. Most cars are fine, and using customisable suspension only makes sense if you know what you are doing. If the car does need suspension:

  • Make sure to check how much the PP changes with each type. Sometimes one of the upgraded suspension parts will actually lower your PP so you may as well try it (but be careful of low ride height)
  • Sometimes Street works really well if a car is struggling, no need to jump straight to Fully Customisable. I only use Fully Customisable if I have to, because that's a load of numbers that I don't properly understand :)
  • The faster the car / higher the PP, the more likely it is that you need properly tuned suspension on it. I drive mostly at <=650pp, where proper suspension tunes are rarely necessary

Tyres:
Requires some testing but this is where I typically start:
  • <=400pp = usually CS, nothing more
  • 450pp = CS or SH
  • 500pp = SH
  • 550pp = SM
  • 600pp = SS
  • 650pp = SS or RH

LSD
My golden rule is always buy fully customisable, even if you don't change the numbers, since it usually lowers PP. If you want to change the numbers:

  • I read somewhere that you want the acceleration number as high as possible and the braking number as low as possible. No idea if that is actually true or why it would be true, but it has served me well
  • Most cars works pretty well with 5/30/5. If the car feels a bit reluctant to turn in, I will raise the acceleration (middle) number. If it feels a bit loose, I will lower the acceleration number. If the car is unstable under braking then I raise the braking + torque and often lower acceleration for good measure

Downforce
My golden rule is 0 front and max rear. However, it's always worth fiddling with these numbers, to find the lowest possible pp you can. Sometimes it isn't quite max rear, for example, but it will almost always be very low front and very high rear. You need to add a wing to most cars for them to be competitive, it's unfortunate, but true

Brakes
My golden rule is stick to stock if you can. Often they are good enough, especially at lower pp. If not, add sports pads / system if needed. Racing pads/system only needed at 700pp+

Ballast
My golden rule is that it's worth playing with these numbers. You can get some mad PP drops by adding just a few kg. Usually best on the rear, in my experience (but note that I almost exclusively drive RWD, I hate most FWD cars in this game)

Permanent upgrades
Almost always worth adding a widebody (with wide wheels) + increased rigidity. I typically will do at least one weight reduction, because it helps everything. Then it's a matter of taste; I have a suspicion that adding engine upgrades and then using the power restrict to get to your desired PP is usually faster than having no upgrades and no restrict. Not properly tested this though.

Transmission
This one I really have no idea about. Anything sub 500pp, I would usually stick to stock transmission. Beyond this, I typically equip the fully customisable one and then just adjust final drive / speed to fit the track.
 

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