ear god people you were REALLY active today. 4 pages? Why can't you be as active thee entire week at like 11 am? Long post ahead, specially because I'm gonna kick some people's asses.
I notice that on my releases that come out to resemble a real car at first, then after that they go in weird directions. I think that might be part of Mattel's deal with the licensing, that they have to create it the way it's supposed to be for the first release, then after that they are allowed to do whatever they want with it. Which isn't always the best thing...
Yeah, it has happened many timres troughout the years with many different cars, but with the two Pikes Peak Toyoras it has been specially atrocious.
I agree that some of the Pikes Peak Celica paint jobs are not the best, but there are a few that are acceptable.
Noup. Not even the TH that 1600 just got, it's horrible. I understand why he grabbed it, as he colelcts the stuff and all that, but dear God. In fact, back when it was new and THs were still findeable in pegs over here, I left two or three hanging because they were so freaking ugly. Today I wouldn't be caught dead with it as part of my collection, as with most others THs, no matter the year.
Here are the cars I have for trade
You'll receive a PM shortly.
This Tomica Nissan Diesel truck's probably not worth very much. It's from when I was a toddler, and I did a fair job of damaging the paint job.
I'd buy it if I found it in a flea market. I've bought worse.
Yes I can, I saw them come together. They are a freaking piece of crap. As EVERY convention car, no exception, the only really official paart is the blistercard, everything else is custom-produced by the convention organizers. And the Mexico cars are crap, crap, crap, even if a friend of mine maade them.
Damn the colour scheme on that NSX is tight...
Yes, the second that's ever been worth a damn. First is this year's green/white with gold wheels. All others have been crap too.
Now for the ass kicking.
This is how my loose mainline cars are stored.
Mine is practically the same, except for the ones I buy brand new, those get put on display carefully.
if I ever meet any of you I will kick your asses until my
shoe bleeds if you don't change that as soon as you finish reading the super-nerdy stuff that follows. I'll give you people classes on how to store your loose cars, with pictures of my own.
1 - Get relatively tiny boxes. That way:
-you don't put too much weight over the bottom cars.
-the boxes are easy to browse trough, so if you grab an upgrade, it's easier to browse the box and locate the car to be replaced.
-They are easier to store and manipulate. They can be put under the bed or stacked one over another and such stuff.
I use the boxes in which CD cases come. They hold 10 cases... or 7 cars per layer, and about 6 layers. In order for this to work, you have to document in pictures each layer, so you know exactly where the upgraded car, or whatever car you are looking for, is. It also works to put the box together again, because each box requires it's own "engineering".
The objective is that you can accomodate the cars in such a manner that, while they are touching themselves, they move as little as possible so they won't rub and thus damage their paint with the contact. There are several things to consider. I'll explain:
-Take into consideration the kind of cars you have. The bottom layer must contain cars that can provide the flattest sitting surface. Sedans, coupes, muscle cars work well because they have mostly uniform, flat surfaces. Pick ups, for example, have a way tall cabin area and the usually empty bed make the car placed uppon it to take a dive in said bed space. Tractors, construction vehicles and whatever car that has stuff protrucing upwards is also a bad idea, because of all these irregularities, precious space is lost. Those go at the upper layers, where they won't provoke loss of space.
-You have to make it all fit, so use your noodle. Try to save the longer and shorter cars for when you need them, in order to acomodate the cars so they move as little as possible. Also the wider cars. This will have a lot to do with your box or container type.
-Take into account the kind of car you're putting in. Newer mainline stuff is of course less valuable than vintage stuff, so the newer, less valuable cars go first, in the bottom rows. The convertibles go in the two upper layers, as you don't want too much weight over their usually flimsy plastic windshields. Of course, the most valuable cars go on top too, so they have the less chance of bein' damaged.
-Take into consideration the characteristics of the cars you're putting in. Cars like a VW Bug have a bubble top, wich will most likely be touched and rubbed by the chassis of a regular car because it does not have where to land its tires, and the roof might get damaged. But if you put over it a big, lifted truck, it will not make contact with the roof and the tires will "bolt" into the VW's shape, keeping it out of danger. Also, if you have a rubber tired car, try to place it over a car that you don't want damaged, or that has tampos on its roof, so the rubber tires will prevent damage.
-After you "finish" your box, number it. Then create a folder in your computer labeled as "boxes", then inside, another folder called the number of the box, then put the pics of the box there. You now have a totally dependable and quick-consulting guide to whatever you have.
I'm sure I'm forgetting something, but I'll post it tomorrow, along with a picture tutorial of my own boxes
I left plenty for other people to enjoy. And I knew that they might get passed over so I figured I'd keep them to help sweeten the trading deal. 
<<<flip-flopper
