1/64 Model Collectors Thread

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Do you take your cars out of the blisters?

  • Yes.

    Votes: 318 51.0%
  • Kinda, I open most of them.

    Votes: 128 20.5%
  • Nope.

    Votes: 91 14.6%
  • Yes and no. I buy a second for opening/customizing.

    Votes: 125 20.0%

  • Total voters
    624
So, today I went looking for Hot Wheels and I scored my very first T-Hunt,

Sweet grand sport corvette there 👍 going to try and go next week to see if there are any around but as its easter hoildays soon everything will probably be gone... damn school kids :lol:
 
Just playing with my new digital camera's functions:

5628049461_28ac941e79.jpg
 
Nice, and as for a group, Shutoko Racers (Japanese Freeway Racers) :dopey:
Thanks for the suggestion

New group(hard to find those cars) the Shutoko Racers
picture029jx.jpg


Which consists of...

Mitsubishi Double Shotz
picture030w.jpg


Nissan Skyline(classic)
picture031o.jpg


Nissan GT-R
picture032l.jpg


Acura NSX
picture033j.jpg


Nissan Titan
picture034i.jpg


Twin Mill III
picture035zn.jpg


Please suggest groups
I am good at photography
 
Sweet grand sport corvette there 👍 going to try and go next week to see if there are any around but as its easter hoildays soon everything will probably be gone... damn school kids :lol:

I wish it was a $uper, but this will do. :P

Go on the hunt, you never know what you might find. 👍

Just playing with my new digital camera's functions:

5628049461_28ac941e79.jpg

By far my favorite Hot Wheels wheels.
 
I saw that Corvette T-hunt in the store once. But I didn't take it, because I'm not a fan of the livery.
 
Yep, I love Majorettes. They still make die-casts? Nice cars, by the way.

Edit - Thinking on restoring this car, any tips on how to do it?

SAAB

I recently restored a vintage Majorette like yours, so I can give some insight. Use a ¼ metal thread on your drill or Dremell to pop open the rivets in the base of the car, it will not take long and the chassis will just pop. Inside you’ll find a suspension system consisting of a metal tube that goes around the chassis over the wheel axles. Make sure that don’t get lost. The opening door mechanism also consists of simple small metal tubes, also take care of those as you’ll need them to reassemble the car correctly.

Use some paint remover if you want fast results, or leave the car in thinner for a couple days. JUST the metal parts of course. If your chassis is clean, leave it aside. After you have stripped the paint out (you may need to use a toothbrush in order to get rid of the remaining paint), wash the car VERY VERY VERY well with soap water to remove any traces of thinner or remover, and finger grease. Then prime it and paint it your color choice (hold it by the rivet post). An airbrush or even a paintgun with automotive paint would be the choice here, but even if you just use cheap spray cans the result will be satisfactory. Practice somewhere else before painting your car so you can get the hold of how much paint comes off the can or airbrush, etc.

General detailing also comes at this point. Get some enamel silver/chrome, red, and orange glossy paint, and some matte black paint, and go trough lights, door handles, trim and holes with it. If you are hesitant of doing it with a brush, try a toothpick. Also, if you want to paint your interior another color and add some detailing (I know that casting has some luggage in the rear hatch section, I have it too), now is the time. If you want to paint some parts of the chassis in body color, use some masking tape and do it. If the color of the interior is different than the color of the body, you may want to paint the inside of the body in that color with a brush, so it will look like the rest of the interior.

Now that your car is refinished, carefully reassemble it. I have never reassembled a opening-door mechanism, so that will be up to you. Take a good, long look at how it works and how it is put together once you open the car so you can reassemble it. When the car is put together again, simply drop a couple dabs of Super Glue or Kola Loka or any other high-strength glue on where the river used to be and press together the car with your hands for about 5 minutes, then leave it resting belly up and you’ll be good to go. Just don’t play around too much with it, as the painted details (lights, trim so on) wear out quickly.
 
I recently restored a vintage Majorette like yours, so I can give some insight. Use a ¼ metal thread on your drill or Dremell to pop open the rivets in the base of the car, it will not take long and the chassis will just pop. Inside you’ll find a suspension system consisting of a metal tube that goes around the chassis over the wheel axles. Make sure that don’t get lost. The opening door mechanism also consists of simple small metal tubes, also take care of those as you’ll need them to reassemble the car correctly.

Use some paint remover if you want fast results, or leave the car in thinner for a couple days. JUST the metal parts of course. If your chassis is clean, leave it aside. After you have stripped the paint out (you may need to use a toothbrush in order to get rid of the remaining paint), wash the car VERY VERY VERY well with soap water to remove any traces of thinner or remover, and finger grease. Then prime it and paint it your color choice (hold it by the rivet post). An airbrush or even a paintgun with automotive paint would be the choice here, but even if you just use cheap spray cans the result will be satisfactory. Practice somewhere else before painting your car so you can get the hold of how much paint comes off the can or airbrush, etc.

General detailing also comes at this point. Get some enamel silver/chrome, red, and orange glossy paint, and some matte black paint, and go trough lights, door handles, trim and holes with it. If you are hesitant of doing it with a brush, try a toothpick. Also, if you want to paint your interior another color and add some detailing (I know that casting has some luggage in the rear hatch section, I have it too), now is the time. If you want to paint some parts of the chassis in body color, use some masking tape and do it. If the color of the interior is different than the color of the body, you may want to paint the inside of the body in that color with a brush, so it will look like the rest of the interior.

Now that your car is refinished, carefully reassemble it. I have never reassembled a opening-door mechanism, so that will be up to you. Take a good, long look at how it works and how it is put together once you open the car so you can reassemble it. When the car is put together again, simply drop a couple dabs of Super Glue or Kola Loka or any other high-strength glue on where the river used to be and press together the car with your hands for about 5 minutes, then leave it resting belly up and you’ll be good to go. Just don’t play around too much with it, as the painted details (lights, trim so on) wear out quickly.

Thanks, hopefully this will turn out succesful, as it's my first time. Will try it soon.
 
I recently restored a vintage Majorette like yours, so I can give some insight. Use a ¼ metal thread on your drill or Dremell to pop open the rivets in the base of the car, it will not take long and the chassis will just pop. Inside you’ll find a suspension system consisting of a metal tube that goes around the chassis over the wheel axles. Make sure that don’t get lost. The opening door mechanism also consists of simple small metal tubes, also take care of those as you’ll need them to reassemble the car correctly.

Use some paint remover if you want fast results, or leave the car in thinner for a couple days. JUST the metal parts of course. If your chassis is clean, leave it aside. After you have stripped the paint out (you may need to use a toothbrush in order to get rid of the remaining paint), wash the car VERY VERY VERY well with soap water to remove any traces of thinner or remover, and finger grease. Then prime it and paint it your color choice (hold it by the rivet post). An airbrush or even a paintgun with automotive paint would be the choice here, but even if you just use cheap spray cans the result will be satisfactory. Practice somewhere else before painting your car so you can get the hold of how much paint comes off the can or airbrush, etc.

General detailing also comes at this point. Get some enamel silver/chrome, red, and orange glossy paint, and some matte black paint, and go trough lights, door handles, trim and holes with it. If you are hesitant of doing it with a brush, try a toothpick. Also, if you want to paint your interior another color and add some detailing (I know that casting has some luggage in the rear hatch section, I have it too), now is the time. If you want to paint some parts of the chassis in body color, use some masking tape and do it. If the color of the interior is different than the color of the body, you may want to paint the inside of the body in that color with a brush, so it will look like the rest of the interior.

Now that your car is refinished, carefully reassemble it. I have never reassembled a opening-door mechanism, so that will be up to you. Take a good, long look at how it works and how it is put together once you open the car so you can reassemble it. When the car is put together again, simply drop a couple dabs of Super Glue or Kola Loka or any other high-strength glue on where the river used to be and press together the car with your hands for about 5 minutes, then leave it resting belly up and you’ll be good to go. Just don’t play around too much with it, as the painted details (lights, trim so on) wear out quickly.

Do you have any tips on restoring these
picture037az.jpg

picture038gu.jpg


and where to find a cheap but good airbrush(maybe a link).
 
Do you have any tips on restoring these
picture037az.jpg

picture038gu.jpg


and where to find a cheap but good airbrush(maybe a link).

Well, the very same apllies, but in HW cars you will have to remove the small plastic pieces that hold the wheel axles, a bit of sanding with a file or carefuly with a dremmel... or maybe even a sharp knife will help you. In fact, try with the knife first.

You'd also need to get a new set of wheels or to refurbish the ones that are in your car. Model Master makes an excelent enamel paint that looks a damn lot like chrome, ask for it like silver chrome, I have a small bottle and it is TEH TITS.

You could try with that if you don't want to open another car just for it's wheels. Of course, you could always go to the HW aisles and pick up some of those monstrositys Hot Wheels sells now, which I don't mind opening at all, and steal the wheels off of them. Be sure to find axles that are the same width as the ones that are coming off, as modifying axle widths is a tad more difficult. To put the wheels on again, you'll need a big dab of epoxy to hold them in place.

Everything else is practically the same.
 
Another eBay win arrived. I remember this car from when it first came out. I think it's absolutely beautiful.

IMG_1712.jpg


And the seller was nice enough to send me a black one as well!

IMG_1713.jpg



More cars should arrive at the end of this week.
 
There's actually several variations of that car, some super rare and worth $$$. I used to collect every variation for every First Edition that came out every year. Subtle differences that might not seem like a big deal, but could very well be. ;)
 
In fact, I had never seen the blue version. Intresting.

in the meanwhile, I'll leave here a picture of the recent supermarket purchases. I'll soon show you the E-Bay stuff I opened and loads of cars that I've found at flea markets. For now, Wal Mart time:

IMG_3719.jpg
 
There's actually several variations of that car, some super rare and worth $$$. I used to collect every variation for every First Edition that came out every year. Subtle differences that might not seem like a big deal, but could very well be. ;)

Yeah, I've been keeping an eye out for variations coming out this year. 👍

And the blue car pictured is worth about $8 and the black one is worth $2. There's another blue one that had no white line on the tires that is worth $15 and another purple one, but not sure about the price. Don't know about any others, I'm just going by SouthTexasDiecast.com listing and prices.

I'll soon show you the E-Bay stuff I opened and loads of cars that I've found at flea markets.

Yes, yes, yes!

BTW, where'd you find the Ferrari?
 
In fact, I had never seen the blue version. Intresting.

in the meanwhile, I'll leave here a picture of the recent supermarket purchases. I'll soon show you the E-Bay stuff I opened and loads of cars that I've found at flea markets. For now, Wal Mart time:

IMG_3719.jpg

Damn that's a beautiful Miura/P4, are they 2011 editions?
 
In fact, I had never seen the blue version. Intresting.

in the meanwhile, I'll leave here a picture of the recent supermarket purchases. I'll soon show you the E-Bay stuff I opened and loads of cars that I've found at flea markets. For now, Wal Mart time:

IMG_3719.jpg
I want that miura:drool:
 
The Miura is awesome, I haven’t opened it because it has a slight casting defect on the front fender, so I want to see if I can find another one before I set it loose. No luck so far.

And yup, the Mustang California Special, Firebird Formula and Miura are all brand new Matchbox castings for 2011 and are awesomely well made, but really rare now as they are just too new. Given a few months maybe they’ll hit the stores everywhere.

And the Ferrari… what, the P4? It was a Wal Mart score, there were lots of those. As a side note, yesterday I found the 63 T-Bird regular TH, but it came too late to appear in this picture.

Keep tuned, I’m writing the flea market post as I type this, but it’s gonna be a LONG one. Lots of very hard to find pieces including a couple country specials and some stuff that needs restoration (:
 
And the Ferrari… what, the P4? It was a Wal Mart score, there were lots of those.

Yup, the P4. I haven't seen one here yet. Looked through HWC and Hobbytalk forums, and others had these. Were they released earlier in the year?
 
It has been released in blue earlier in the year (and in red with gold wheels back in the day as a first edition, in 2000 I think), and this red version is the most recent one outside of 5 packs.
 
I hit the local Wal-Mart, Target and Five Below (a local $5 and under store that usually has a lot of Hot Wheels the big retail stores don't) today and I must have come right after a restock because I felt like I hit the jackpot! $50 or so later, I ended up with these:

http://img703.imageshack.us/i/dsc02296u.jpg/
http://img232.imageshack.us/i/dsc02299v.jpg/
http://img251.imageshack.us/i/dsc02300f.jpg/

The top group is all the single Hot Wheels cars I bought. The middle left group is the 6 cars I kept from a 10-pack I bought. The middle right group is the single Matchbox cars I bought. The bottom left group is a Hot Wheels 3-pack. The bottom right group is 4 individual Hot Wheels I bought from the 2011 series with the classic Hot Wheels paint schemes and numbers. I decided to try to get all of them (there's two more in the 10 pack).

More details:

http://img683.imageshack.us/i/dsc02303j.jpg/
The 3-pack. Lamborghini Gallardo Superleggera, Lamborghini Reventon Roadster, Triumph TR6 racer.

http://img851.imageshack.us/i/dsc02304j.jpg/
The Hot Wheels paint scheme cars. Clockwise from top left: #8 Ford Mustang, #7 '57 Chevy, #3 Chevy Chevelle SS 396, #5 '69 Ford Mustang.

http://img36.imageshack.us/i/dsc02306ps.jpg/
The 10-pack. Acura NSX, Lotus Sport Elise, Pontiac GTO Judge, #4 '83 Chevrolet Silverado, Lotus Project M250 (I bought the 10-pack mainly for this), #7 stock car.

http://img19.imageshack.us/i/dsc02311dg.jpg/
Lamborghini Reventon, Ferrari Enzo, Ferrari California, Ferrari 330 P4, Ferrari 458 Italia.

http://img535.imageshack.us/i/dsc02316go.jpg/
Orange Ford GT LM, black Speed Machines Ford GT LM, yellow Renault Megane Trophy, Tyrrell P34 (already have the blue one), black Renault Megane Trophy.

http://img135.imageshack.us/i/dsc02317ya.jpg/
Honda S2000, BMW M3, COPO Camaro, Callaway C7, '71 Dodge Charger, Porsche 911 GT3 RS.

http://img859.imageshack.us/i/dsc02318f.jpg/
Left to right: BTTF Time Machine, Honda Racer, Studebaker Scout, Speed Machines Panoz GTR-1, Buick Grand National, '69 COPO Corvette, Citroen C4 Rally.

EDIT: Oops, forgot to take a close up of the Matchbox cars. Well, they are a Porsche 914-6, Lamborghini Miura, a Chevy truck, a camper and a Bobcat-type thing.
 
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Nice pick-up Driving Park! A lot of those aren't showing up here, yet. Really want that COPO Camaro, and the Hot Wheels Racing '69 Mustang and '57 Chevy.


Here are some variations of this years Mustang Fastback that I've picked up over the past month. There are two others that have showed up which I haven't seen yet. I think the orange one (middle car) is a bit hard to find, not too sure though. I've only seen one in the 15+ stores I've checked, lol.

IMG_1720.jpg
 
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Thanks M-POWER! There were a LOT of color variations on that fastback at the Wal-Mart. There had to have been at least 4. I also passed up a GT/CS Mustang...maybe I shouldn't have.
 
That Stude truck. I NEED IT in my life NOW.

That thing is headed for casting of the year for sure.

And you should habe grabbed the California Special. Great model.
 
That Stude truck. I NEED IT in my life NOW.

That thing is headed for casting of the year for sure.

And you should habe grabbed the California Special. Great model.

Yeah, the Stude is an AWESOME model. I'm so glad I found it (I found that one at the $5 and under store :sly: ). Yeah, I probably should have picked up the CS, it looked really good.
 

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