A new grain of rice
- Thread starter Sertsa
- 23 comments
- 1,002 views
What's wrong with it? Nothing's wrong with it, but I sure wouldn't have one in my own car. Why? Because it's so fey, so poseur, such a flat out false thing to do. It's not real NOS -- which is fey all on it's own -- and it's not even a good subwoofer (bazooka's are one-note subs; just ask Bose). There's not one thing wrong with it. But no sensible person would have one. That's all....
- 5,198
- Montana
- DethMOPAR340
i would still go with JLAudio subs :thumbsup:
- 2,312
- Misnblu
- Misnblu
I agree, its poseur material and there is enough of it here in my home town.
Was recently at a car show and seen these in the back of the car in which there were two of them back in the back.
I didnt like it and the car itself was rice heaven.
Many will like it for the novelty of the product and that is what is going to sell the product for sure.
[lrmarquee]Misnblu[/lrmarquee]
- 2,312
- Misnblu
- Misnblu
Bass is good if done properly.
Most just want their trunk to rattle and kind of "show off" their supposed stereo.
Sound quality was making a comeback several years ago and now the trend is for spl and who gives a darn about sound quality.
Im installing a pair of 8's in the Cavy, replaced the factory 6x9's, added some Pioneer tweets and put caps on the doors and tweets for that good sound.
If done correctly, the bass will add just enough sound to make the music live, not thuddy or boomy.
One day, there will be sound quality to the music you hear, right now its just see how big of a woofer you can put in and lets hear it rattle.
[lrmarquee]Misnblu < < < < < < < <[/lrmarquee]
Most just want their trunk to rattle and kind of "show off" their supposed stereo.
Sound quality was making a comeback several years ago and now the trend is for spl and who gives a darn about sound quality.
Im installing a pair of 8's in the Cavy, replaced the factory 6x9's, added some Pioneer tweets and put caps on the doors and tweets for that good sound.
If done correctly, the bass will add just enough sound to make the music live, not thuddy or boomy.
One day, there will be sound quality to the music you hear, right now its just see how big of a woofer you can put in and lets hear it rattle.
[lrmarquee]Misnblu < < < < < < < <[/lrmarquee]
- 13,818
- Alabama
i agree with misnblu....although i dont have a car yet,i have been around alot of guys that do and that have a MASSIVE sound system (2000watts or more) and although it is loud and boomy,their trunk doesnt rattle and none of them really play it loud enough for anyone within a 20 foot radius to hear.take my brother for example.he has a very nice system set up in his '97 T-bird.2 pioneer 6x9's in the boot,a 6x8 in each door panel(he is getting some 5's soon i think),3 inch tweeters in the corner of the windshield,a 6x8 in the rear body panel(right behind the doors)on each side.and an 8" sub in the trunk...oh yeah.and a 400 watt pioneer amp and an 800 watt pioneer amp.it actually sounds very nice.great highs and mids and pretty deep bass when he wants it.now,if he wants to,he can make it "boomy" as misnblu said in the previous post but he never does unless he is driving down the freeway with the windows down.just to say,not everybody likes their sound system to be loud and "boomy" but they want a nice sounding stereo system that makes them 'feel" like the band/whatever is making the music is right there almost.i have an example of someone that does like to show off by having their trunk rattling(which i hate).i was a Hess station getting a coke this afternoon after school and this redneck in a '94-'96 saturn with some bass song playing as loud as his sound system could go and boy was his trunk rattling.not only that but literally his whole car! i told him that it sounded bad and that its not good for your car to be rattling like that.he just blew me off and drove away.so that just goes to show that some people just dont know how to have the proper sound system setup.another bad example of this is some guy that lives in my neighborhood.he has this yellow 5.0 mustang with the nastiest sounding stero system.he has it turned up all the way and all u can hear coming from about almost 1/4 mile away is a LOUD boom and when he gets close to my houseall u could hear was a loud boom and some muffled screaming from the horrible music he was listening to.
i dont know why i even posted this but this has Officially been my LONGEST post ever in any forum that i have ever been a part of!!! Aren't ya'll sooooooooooo proud of me now?! Huh huh huh??? arent ya arent ya arent ya!!!???LOL
i dont know why i even posted this but this has Officially been my LONGEST post ever in any forum that i have ever been a part of!!! Aren't ya'll sooooooooooo proud of me now?! Huh huh huh??? arent ya arent ya arent ya!!!???LOL
- 2,312
- Misnblu
- Misnblu
Nice post man.
Nice to see some purist around the audio world.
My Honda sported 2 JBL 12" competition woofers in a 6 cu.ft. box (custom fit w/no rear seats), one amplifier playing mono (150 watts bridged) to each wooofer. 6-1/2 two way Pioneers in the door with its own two channel amplifier (50 watts to each) and my two sets of tweeters (JBL 1 inch titaniums and MTX polycarbons hooked in parallel) with a JBL amplifier pushing 120 by 2 watts to them.
All the other amplifiers were Precision Power amps and ran a total of 650 watts continuous (4 amps total).
All speakers were time aligned (know what that is??) and had a equalizer hooked to it all.
In the 5 years I jammed with it, no other system was setup as clean sounding as the Honda did. Ive listened to manufacturers car and truck systems (worked car audio as an installer and salesman for over 6 years) and ppl's stereos and nothing came close to the sound of mine, not even the manufacturers show pieces. Remember, this was the mid 80's and audio wasnt as sophisticated as it is now. I kept the system very simple in design and uses all top quality parts, connection and custom wiring by me.
Only one sounded better and he worked with the same company as I and had an all JBL system and let me tell you it could play anything and it sounded LIVE.
Not bragging, but these Bazookas just dont cut the mustard for the bass and clarity of defined bass.
The original Bazooka gained much praise from Audio/Video magazine and won awards for the praise from the dealers that sold it.
These NOS lookalikes are just a ploy to lure the fast & furious wannabees into buying bull.
Wow, enough. :haha:
Ill stop.
[lrmarquee]Misnblu < < < < < < < <[/lrmarquee]
Nice to see some purist around the audio world.
My Honda sported 2 JBL 12" competition woofers in a 6 cu.ft. box (custom fit w/no rear seats), one amplifier playing mono (150 watts bridged) to each wooofer. 6-1/2 two way Pioneers in the door with its own two channel amplifier (50 watts to each) and my two sets of tweeters (JBL 1 inch titaniums and MTX polycarbons hooked in parallel) with a JBL amplifier pushing 120 by 2 watts to them.
All the other amplifiers were Precision Power amps and ran a total of 650 watts continuous (4 amps total).
All speakers were time aligned (know what that is??) and had a equalizer hooked to it all.
In the 5 years I jammed with it, no other system was setup as clean sounding as the Honda did. Ive listened to manufacturers car and truck systems (worked car audio as an installer and salesman for over 6 years) and ppl's stereos and nothing came close to the sound of mine, not even the manufacturers show pieces. Remember, this was the mid 80's and audio wasnt as sophisticated as it is now. I kept the system very simple in design and uses all top quality parts, connection and custom wiring by me.
Only one sounded better and he worked with the same company as I and had an all JBL system and let me tell you it could play anything and it sounded LIVE.
Not bragging, but these Bazookas just dont cut the mustard for the bass and clarity of defined bass.
The original Bazooka gained much praise from Audio/Video magazine and won awards for the praise from the dealers that sold it.
These NOS lookalikes are just a ploy to lure the fast & furious wannabees into buying bull.
Wow, enough. :haha:
Ill stop.
[lrmarquee]Misnblu < < < < < < < <[/lrmarquee]
- 2,312
- Misnblu
- Misnblu
Time alignment is when the speakers have an equal distance for sound to the ears of those listening.
The tweets need to be the farthest distance because they are high frequence transducers, the mids closet to the ear and the woofers even closer.
If you look at any esoteric speaker system, you will notice the tweeter and midrange is backed away from the woofer so the magnets of all the speakers (voice coils actually) are on an even plane. Aligning speaker like this will give you no cancellation effect to the music and makes the sound pure and very clean.
I sat in my seat of the car and with a tape measure took many measurements from my head to where the speakers were going to be. I tried to get it as close to the alignment as possible and succeeded pretty nicely.
I laugh at ppl with tweeters right by their ears and other tweeter twice as far away, it sounds like crap and certain frequencies can be amplified and others cancelled by doing this. It never really sounds as good if they were in the proper alignment.
Most ppl dont think about this and the sound makes it evident.
Keeping is simple has always been my rule of thumb and too many speakers creates more problems.
Hope this helps.
[lrmarquee]Misnblu[/lrmarquee]
The tweets need to be the farthest distance because they are high frequence transducers, the mids closet to the ear and the woofers even closer.
If you look at any esoteric speaker system, you will notice the tweeter and midrange is backed away from the woofer so the magnets of all the speakers (voice coils actually) are on an even plane. Aligning speaker like this will give you no cancellation effect to the music and makes the sound pure and very clean.
I sat in my seat of the car and with a tape measure took many measurements from my head to where the speakers were going to be. I tried to get it as close to the alignment as possible and succeeded pretty nicely.
I laugh at ppl with tweeters right by their ears and other tweeter twice as far away, it sounds like crap and certain frequencies can be amplified and others cancelled by doing this. It never really sounds as good if they were in the proper alignment.
Most ppl dont think about this and the sound makes it evident.
Keeping is simple has always been my rule of thumb and too many speakers creates more problems.
Hope this helps.
[lrmarquee]Misnblu[/lrmarquee]
- 71
My Dakota Supports 2 10' MTX Subs, no amp at all and it still thumps better than some of the subs with an amp. i think people just buy them because most people want to join to crowd of Bass Enthusiast. I never was in the crowd. when, i bought the subs off my dad for 50 bucks, i started getting into subs more and more. but, to the picture of top, those are Bazooka Subs. i havent heard what Bazooka sounds like. but, the subs im into right now are the Audiobahn Flame-Q and the Polk/Momo Subs series.
- 543
For as much as those Flame-Q's are, you can get a lot better quality subs. I will admit though, they look tight.
I'm putting a system in my truck, I quess I'll tell you what I plan...
optima red top battery
panasonic premeir cd changer
components (6.5 in and 1 inch tweet)
a custom center consel that will house two 4X6's
two 12'' subs
an amp for the components and the 4x6's
two amps for the two subs
dynamat extreme the entire truck
two 1/2 fahrad caps
a 30 band 3rd octave equalizer
and I think that's about it
I haven't decided on what brand/series subs or comps I should put in. It will be something through Mitek. I'm pretty sure that the amps will be Xtants (they make great amps) and the subs are probably going to be mtx 8000's, but the 8000's don't hit the frequencies I want. I don't know decisions decisions. Hey misn, you know any good subs and comps through mitek??
I don't think I'm going bandpass on the sub boxes, I'd rather have clarity than single note bass. Anyway the person that's doing my system for me claims I'll get between 130 and 145 dbs. crystal clear. I said it couldn't be done, but he insists.
I'm putting a system in my truck, I quess I'll tell you what I plan...
optima red top battery
panasonic premeir cd changer
components (6.5 in and 1 inch tweet)
a custom center consel that will house two 4X6's
two 12'' subs
an amp for the components and the 4x6's
two amps for the two subs
dynamat extreme the entire truck
two 1/2 fahrad caps
a 30 band 3rd octave equalizer
and I think that's about it
I haven't decided on what brand/series subs or comps I should put in. It will be something through Mitek. I'm pretty sure that the amps will be Xtants (they make great amps) and the subs are probably going to be mtx 8000's, but the 8000's don't hit the frequencies I want. I don't know decisions decisions. Hey misn, you know any good subs and comps through mitek??
I don't think I'm going bandpass on the sub boxes, I'd rather have clarity than single note bass. Anyway the person that's doing my system for me claims I'll get between 130 and 145 dbs. crystal clear. I said it couldn't be done, but he insists.
- 2,312
- Misnblu
- Misnblu
Infallible, you could make a 6th order enclosure for the truck. There are two chambers and the sub is firing both chambers. One chamber is larger in volume than the other and is tuned for 80hz and 40 hz frequencies.
I own one and have a 10 inch Rockford Fosgate Pro Series woofer in it and it rocks the house. The base is awesome and smooth to just over 80 hz. I use this for the sub in my home theater (running 4 dedicated amplifiers in the system and 1300 watts total) system and run 500 watts from the Carver 4.0t cube amplifier (its in the Smithsonian because of its design-magnetic field resonance amplifier).
The box is 2x2x1 and has a plexiglass top so you can see the woofer. 6th order enclosure, ask your car audio dealer about making one.
[lrmarquee]Misnblu < < < < < < < <[/lrmarquee]
I own one and have a 10 inch Rockford Fosgate Pro Series woofer in it and it rocks the house. The base is awesome and smooth to just over 80 hz. I use this for the sub in my home theater (running 4 dedicated amplifiers in the system and 1300 watts total) system and run 500 watts from the Carver 4.0t cube amplifier (its in the Smithsonian because of its design-magnetic field resonance amplifier).
The box is 2x2x1 and has a plexiglass top so you can see the woofer. 6th order enclosure, ask your car audio dealer about making one.
[lrmarquee]Misnblu < < < < < < < <[/lrmarquee]
- 7,271
Since the subject seems to have turned to sound systems, I'll give my opinion.
I had a ride in my brother's girlfriend's truck, pretty nice, lowered, blue, 3-star chrome rims, and 2 12'(?) MTX subs and an amp. I sat in the driver's seat in a parking lot with a song going, and let me tell you, I couldn't stand it.
The bass was just too much for me, I'd probably just get a real bad headache. But yeah, so uh, there's my opinion.
I had a ride in my brother's girlfriend's truck, pretty nice, lowered, blue, 3-star chrome rims, and 2 12'(?) MTX subs and an amp. I sat in the driver's seat in a parking lot with a song going, and let me tell you, I couldn't stand it. The bass was just too much for me, I'd probably just get a real bad headache. But yeah, so uh, there's my opinion.
- 966
I believe I've mentioned this before, but I once worked as an audio engineer and am a musician, so I'm pretty picky about audio systems in general. I've heard a lot of stuff put in cars, and have never been blown away by any of them. Like others have said, many seem to go more for SPL than good, transparent sound and detail.
But like misnblu said, if you can hear well, do some research, listen and tune, you can get a good car system. And if you do have a sub, it should just be used to add depth and some resonance to music, not just thump.
But I doubt probable buyers of the above bass tube are looking for that kind of sound, though.
CrackHoor: interesting point; I tend to go for more for stealth. But I don't think the F&F crowd do, for some reason.
But like misnblu said, if you can hear well, do some research, listen and tune, you can get a good car system. And if you do have a sub, it should just be used to add depth and some resonance to music, not just thump.
But I doubt probable buyers of the above bass tube are looking for that kind of sound, though.
CrackHoor: interesting point; I tend to go for more for stealth. But I don't think the F&F crowd do, for some reason.
There's a bit more to time alignment than just distance. The crossovers themselves can create out-of-phase issues. It's far cheaper to use a complex, 3rd order crossover to create a near-vertical response falloff for each driver, allowing fewer drivers to be used. In reality, anything over 2nd order creates such issues. Only when you have 1st order crossovers (and the multiple drivers per channel to better distribute the sound) will you have true time-aligned speakers. Actual placement of the tweeter, midrange, etc., has far less effect than what your circuits consist of. It does help, though, but mostly for creating a even volume level. Actual phase/time alignment is nearly impossible, with space being an issue and all...unless you drive a bus.
BTW, this is only relevant in the frequency domain. Should you have a digital equalizer, a 12th order crossover will have as little effect as a 1st order one.
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- Misnblu
- Misnblu
Agreed, the only problem with the third order crossovers (18db falloff) is the fact you cant find the coils to make such a crossover.
You could wind your own coils but must have a device that would measure the coils inductance.
Most of my tweets, mids have 1st order caps on them in my present system, its much easier to hook up and can parallel or series them to get the right cutoff frequency I want.
Nice response Hooligan. 
[lrmarquee]Misnblu[/lrmarquee]
You could wind your own coils but must have a device that would measure the coils inductance.
Most of my tweets, mids have 1st order caps on them in my present system, its much easier to hook up and can parallel or series them to get the right cutoff frequency I want.
Nice response Hooligan.
[lrmarquee]Misnblu[/lrmarquee]
Use multiple coils, or a combination of caps & inductors. A capacitor in parallel equals an inductor in series, and vice versa. Not everything has to be so straight forward. Unless, of course, you are running out of space.
You could wind your own coils but must have a device that would measure the coils inductance.
That shouldn't be too hard. Got an oscilloscope?
- 2,312
- Misnblu
- Misnblu
Lol, dont have an o-scope and cant get any inductors and I work and manage an electronics store (not Radio Shack either :haha: ).
I guess I could go online and order, just like keeping things simple in the sound equation.
Since I couldnt find any 220MFD caps, I had to take two 100's and parallel them to make my configuration. Its close enough for the 4x6's in the front.
[lrmarquee]Misnblu < < < < < < < <[/lrmarquee]
).I guess I could go online and order, just like keeping things simple in the sound equation.
Since I couldnt find any 220MFD caps, I had to take two 100's and parallel them to make my configuration. Its close enough for the 4x6's in the front.
[lrmarquee]Misnblu < < < < < < < <[/lrmarquee]
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