Best Car/Tips for new Tokyo Expressway WTC600 race

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Very strange, I got the 330P4 last night, fixed it for the WTC700 at LeMans, ran the race and in first lap hard tapped one car, and went into gravel twice and still was awarded the 825K of CRB.
I swear that I can do no wrong, I always get the CRB.
It seems to be different between events. I lost it on the WTC 800 championship for ???, yet when I did the 30 minute endurance in the Tomahawk causing all kinds of mayhem, I kept the CRB. Spa is also trigger happy in that championship, yet at Bathurst it didn't mind a couple wall taps.

One thing PD is very consistent at is being inconsistent with everything.
 
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Gets a bit hairy when the grip goes towards the end of the stint but as long as you get the braking points right it's immense.
I used the SLR McLaren, totally stock. It's devastating, it's so quiet and smooth and just crushes the competition.
Kokubun was right behind me however and finished 2nd with a 28:04 total, so he was going very fast that race.
Interestingly, in a subsequent race, I massively tuned an E46 M3 afterwards, and Kokubun came 2nd with a 28:10 total.
So it's a small sample size of hard data but the AI was off its game that race.
The E46 M3 however is a beautifully balanced car, not the fastest on the straight, only 185 or so, but with weight savings 1 it can break late and is easy on its tires.
 
Seems I recreated it from your description, looks like the mechanism is that (automatic) transmission would got confused and downshifts back to 2nd gear as soon as it shifted into 3rd gear. I changed to manual transmission during race ...

Other gear ratios won't keep constant when you adjusting so just repeatedly fiddle with them and press triangle until it's under 600 (?)

Edit: Use 9.619 / 9.185 / 8.663 for Sport Soft / Race Intermediate which should much easier to control on first half of race where the surface is wet. The PP of SS/IM are the same but somehow for me SS can survive entire race with some remaining, IM would wore out after ~10 laps. Didn't want to promote exploiting but we can take the chance for some experiment.

Edit 2: Added screenshots for SS/IM config and adjusted 6th gear. Use fuel map 2, cruise with 5/6 gear and you won't need to pit at all. Actually it's possible to throttle through the entire bottom half curving section without braking, from hairpin to hairpin ... but it's extremely risky.

Edit 3: As per Fh1520 said:

And the crucial point is that transmission values before the slash must be exact the same, the value after slash is the max speed of that gear and may be different if you're using imperial unit.
I think they nerfed it. I can’t get below 1200 with Sport Softs. I even tried both fully adjustable trannys. Why do we have TWO fully adjustable trannys anyways?
 

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Other cars I've won with recently:

Corvette ZR1 C6, Alpine A110, SLR McLaren, Alfa 4C, Alfa 8C, E46 M3

There's so many road cars that are contenders!
 
Your third gear ratio looks off to me. (the number BEFORE slash is the important one)
also read: https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...o-expressway-wtc600-race.407346/post-13690595
I do believe I have it sites out? Thanks for your help, cheers bud! 🍻

EDIT: it’s kinda hard to get ahead when you have a 30+ penalty every lap! The kick in the nads is the complete inability for the car to turn into the hairpin. The Tommy X suddenly becomes a gold mine rock truck with flat front tires! Once the game resets you back on the track cuz you are nose deep into the “Barry-R”, the tires have ZERO grip even with TC-5! The Sports Softs have my PP 575,000 or something like that I said in my video I shot.

For y’all’s that are LOVING the PB time comp, KUDOS TO YOU!!! For the rest of us, this ain’t easy and y’all’s don’t speak for all of us. I don’t believe Kaz & crew should nerf this. We had been using “tranny tricks” since GT5 online.

Who discovered this so-called “glitch”? How did he or she proper, “discover” it exactly? Maybe it was an inside slide job?
 

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I did the race in the Ferrari 330 P4 today and really enjoyed it, I finished only 0.335 seconds ahead of the GTR! What it lacks in straight line speed it makes up in turns, that and it does not need to refuel, highly recommended if you want a challenge.
 
Diablo GT Tune

With this tune I was able to get a best lap of 2:09 (could easily be improved with a better drive) and could pull consistent 2:10-2:12 even after just a few laps while the track was still wet. Definitely recommend giving it a try. I have tried some other setups in this thread and feel that this is probably the most stable and predictable and will result in an easy and repeatable win for an alternative credit grind.

Enjoy!

Diablo_GT_Tokyo_Times.jpg

Diablo_GT_Tokyo_Win.jpg
 
I did the race in the Ferrari 330 P4 today and really enjoyed it, I finished only 0.335 seconds ahead of the GTR! What it lacks in straight line speed it makes up in turns, that and it does not need to refuel, highly recommended if you want a challenge.
Care to share the tuning of 330P4 to get it below 600PP?
 
The NSX Type R '02 is amazing! It's a scalpel, it's a joy to drive, extremely stable and capable of very high speeds thru the turns. Reached ~191 on the straight with aero which is fine. It's very frugal however.

I ran a 27:48 time, no penalties. Most laps were consistent in the 2:15 to 2:17 range.

Fuel map 1 the entire time. End of lap 7, I pitted. I had 4.1 laps of fuel still in reserve (!), so put fresh tires, and only need to top up to 5 laps, which is faster than the others. Left the pits in 2nd place as Gallo in his new NSX flew by, and I just went fast and steady and increased the lead, Gallo pits later at end of lap 9 i think, and then it was just me in first, slowly extending the lead.

Here's the complete build I used. My PP was at 599.58. I may try different builds experimenting with engine mods, such as using the racing crank instead of the stroke mod, but that's an expensive endeavor :)

NSX Type R '02

Sport Medium tires

Custom Suspension: default settings, 100/100, 4/4, 35/35. 45/45, 2.30/2.50, and with front camber raised to 1.0, (rear is 1.5 default), (front toe default 0) and rear toe increased to 0.25

Custom LSD, 6/5/45

Aero: Type A for Front and Side and Wing. Downforce settings: 30 F, 123 R

Full ECU Computer

Racing intake/exhaust/manifold

Racing brakes/pads

Engine: Stroke, Balance, PolishPorts, HiComp Pistons

Weight Reduction 1
 
Ferrari Testarossa that I used for a comfortable win. Lovely to drive, good power and torque.

Tune came out to 593.73 PP for me. I didn't do any engine mods but there's room for it.

Sport Medium tires

Custom Suspension: 88/88, 4/4, 35/35. 45/45, 2.55/2.75, camber 1.0/1.3, toe 0.0/0.25

Custom LSD, 5/5/20

Full ECU Computer

Racing Transmission, 310 top speed

Racing intake/exhaust/manifold

Racing brakes/pads

Racing clutch

Wheels - wide offset, standard size (16"), standard width
 
Here's my tune for the car that started my love of this event, the Viper GTS '02.
This car made me realize that winning this event with normal road cars was possible.
It put me on the path to try with many various other cars with many successes along the way.
This Viper is a beast, it devours this track.

Viper GTS '02 - 600.00 PP

Sport Medium tires

Custom Suspension: 84/84, 5/5, 34/34. 45/45, 2.45/2.65, camber 1.0/1.2, toe 0.0/0.25

Custom LSD, 5/5/20

Downforce: Low Rear Wing installed, downforce set to 20 (default), and 100 rear

Full ECU Computer

Power Restrictor 98%

Racing Transmission, 330 top speed

Racing Air filter + Muffler + Exhaust Manifold

Racing brakes/pads

Racing clutch

Wheels - wide offset, standard size (18"), standard width
 
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Took another shot at the WTC Tokyo 12 lapper today after a handful of one hour missions.

I actually managed to set the fastest lap at 2:12.756 after a pit stop with mediums, and at Notch three in the fuel tab.

Either Suswillo's R35 didn't have all hamsters running, or I was running those dry lines with a little more consistency tonight. 🤣
 
Care to share the tuning of 330P4 to get it below 600PP?
Sure thing.

Ferrari 330 P4, PP600:

Buy: Power restrictor and Ballast + Sports Hard tires

Tires: Sports Hard
Body Height: 140, 140
Ballast: 189 kg
Ballast position: 9 (to keep original weight distribution)
Power Restrictor: 78

This setup should get it down to PP599.65, with 350hp and 981kg of weight.

Edit: forgot to add that during the race fuel was mainly on 1, sometimes going up to 2 on the straight, in the tunnel, to save a bit of fuel to make it till the end. Draft as much as possible, and avoid wall collisions for obvious reasons, one penalty is a lost race.
 
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What difficulty setting are people playing this on? I haven't managed to win in any car apart from the Tomahawk S (on hardest setting). I think the best I've finished was 11th with Dodge Viper Gr4. I've tried several cars, no luck tried the Suzuki Grp4 yesterday didn't need to pit but was simply way to slow, ended up 14th and around a minute of the leader with maybe one 5 second penalty.
 
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Huayra Tune

Very well balanced tune focused more on handling than pure power. Capable of achieving similar lap times to other cars I have tested (2:09 towards end, 2:11-2:12 in beginning with track still wet).

Huayra_Tokyo_Times.jpg

Huayra_Tokyo_Win.jpg
 
Here's my tune for the car that started my love of this event, the Viper GTS '02.
This car made me realize that winning this event with normal road cars was possible.
It put me on the path to try with many various other cars with many successes along the way.
This Viper is a beast, it devours this track.

Viper GTS '02 - 600.00 PP

Sport Medium tires

Custom Suspension: 84/84, 5/5, 34/34. 45/45, 2.45/2.65, camber 1.0/1.2, toe 0.0/0.25

Custom LSD, 5/5/20

Downforce: Low Rear Wing installed, downforce set to 20 (default), and 100 rear

Full ECU Computer

Power Restrictor 98%

Racing Transmission, 330 top speed

Racing intake/exhaust/manifold

Racing brakes/pads

Racing clutch

Wheels - wide offset, standard size (18"), standard width
I tried to copy your tune but the PP was 592.11.
Are you using a weight reduction or a wide body conversion?
 
What difficulty setting are people playing this on? I haven't managed to win in any car apart from the Tomahawk S (on hardest setting). I think the best I've finished was 11th with Dodge Viper Gr4. I've tried several cars, no luck
I appreciate everyone's input, trying to help us ragamuffins out. But I'm in the same boat as jagrajj. I can't get ANY car to win. My best time trial on Tokyo Expressway is with the Red Bull Jr but I can't get it to the magic 2:12 lap times in the wet, plus it performs poorly against the bots because the PP scale breaks at about the 214hp point, and one touch against the side of a car or wall usually sends it spinning. On top of that, time trial lap times are useless in knowing what our lap times will be in a race, just to use to determine car advantage. I wish TT laps translated roughly to race lap times. I just managed to be roughly competitive with my second best car, the RE Amamiya RX-7, but it took HOURS of do overs because of penalties to get a clean race, and I only managed a 4th place finish. And even if the easy/hard difficulty is flipped, it makes little difference.

Only the very best are going to beat this race, unless PD is nice enough to ease the difficulties on these hard events like Tokyo. We need a few events which aren't too hard to make money, and right now for me at least, that's the LeMans 700, where easy difficulty really is easy.
 
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What difficulty setting are people playing this on? I haven't managed to win in any car apart from the Tomahawk S (on hardest setting). I think the best I've finished was 11th with Dodge Viper Gr4. I've tried several cars, no luck tried the Suzuki Grp4 yesterday didn't need to pit but was simply way to slow, ended up 14th and around a minute of the leader with maybe one 5 second penalty.
The Aston Martin VGT can easily beat the hardest AI (with a totally legit non-exploit tune). I can share my setup if you struggle to make the car work for you. Just take a look at the power curve and note the rpm to shift at, and get a reference for the red bar if you aren't using bumper cam, as it's a while since I drove this race with it, but I think you need to shift very very early for best performance and fuel consumption, like right at the very start of the red bar, maybe even get used to the engine pitch and shift a little before the bar starts to go red.
 
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I tried to copy your tune but the PP was 592.11.
Are you using a weight reduction or a wide body conversion?
No widebody, and no weight reduction, it's 3459 pounds, 499 HP, 530.2 ft-lb torque.
To double check your issue, I bought a brand new Viper GTS '02 from brand central and built it based on my settings listed here in order to confirm, without checking my existing Viper. Following my tune listed here, it's coming out to 600 PP for me.
One thing that I listed that may be confusing was "Racing intake/exhaust/manifold" - I can edit this to say Racing Air filter + Muffler + Exhaust Manifold. But even with removing some or all of those, I'm not getting down to 592.11 PP, with all these stock, i'm seeing 592.54.
Even changing the wheels doesn't change the PP unless I am doing Wide offset wheels, which I had listed.
I'm not sure, please double check and let me know how it goes.
 
I appreciate everyone's input, trying to help us ragamuffins out. But I'm in the same boat as jagrajj. I can't get ANY car to win. My best time trial on Tokyo Expressway is with the Red Bull Jr but I can't get it to the magic 2:12 lap times in the wet, plus it performs poorly against the bots because the PP scale breaks at about the 214hp point, and one touch against the side of a car or wall usually sends it spinning. On top of that, time trial lap times are useless in knowing what our lap times will be in a race, just to use to determine car advantage. I wish TT laps translated roughly to race lap times. I just managed to be roughly competitive with my second best car, the RE Amamiya RX-7, but it took HOURS of do overs because of penalties to get a clean race, and I only managed a 4th place finish. And even if the easy/hard difficulty is flipped, it makes little difference.

Only the very best are going to beat this race, unless PD is nice enough to ease the difficulties on these hard events like Tokyo. We need a few events which aren't too hard to make money, and right now for me at least, that's the LeMans 700, where easy difficulty really is easy.
I've been playing on Easy lately, because it's still very hard, and I'm trying out various lower power-to-weight ratio cars. When I win, going by the 2nd place times (usually Kokubun), he is around 27:58 total on Hard difficulty, and 28:10 on Easy, so he's slower by 1/2 second per lap on average on Easy. That's my experience, but these times can vary.
So regardless of easy or hard, when I'm approaching a time of 27:45 total and less, it's generally a comfortable win.
 
The Aston Martin VGT can easily beat the hardest AI (with a totally legit non-exploit tune). I can share my setup if you struggle to make the car work for you. Just take a look at the power curve and note the rpm to shift at, and get a reference for the red bar if you aren't using bumper cam, as it's a while since I drove this race with it, but I think you need to shift very very early for best performance and fuel consumption, like right at the very start of the red bar, maybe even get used to the engine pitch and shift a little before the bar starts to go red.
I forgot to mention I'm an automatic driver too 😄 maybe it's just me.... I tried Praiano's tune for the R33 specifically for the Toyko event and I think without any penalties I could finish top 4 (finished 8th or 9th with a overall 20 second penalty). I'm not the best GT driver but I'm not absolutely rubbish either 😄 (at least I don't think I am 😆). This event reminds me a little bit of the Mini challenge at Goodwood, I really struggled to win on hard difficulty in that event until I came across a tune which showed getting the LSD to a particular setting allowed you to add a few extra bhp which resulted in me winning the race. I'm definitely not giving up on this 😁 any help with the AM VGT would be greatly appreciated🙏
 
I forgot to mention I'm an automatic driver too 😄 maybe it's just me.... I tried Praiano's tune for the R33 specifically for the Toyko event and I think without any penalties I could finish top 4 (finished 8th or 9th with a overall 20 second penalty). I'm not the best GT driver but I'm not absolutely rubbish either 😄 (at least I don't think I am 😆). This event reminds me a little bit of the Mini challenge at Goodwood, I really struggled to win on hard difficulty in that event until I came across a tune which showed getting the LSD to a particular setting allowed you to add a few extra bhp which resulted in me winning the race. I'm definitely not giving up on this 😁 any help with the AM VGT would be greatly appreciated🙏
You may want to try manual instead of automatic if you can! It's easy to learn and will probably lead to faster lap times.
 
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